I have a 2002 Nissan Frontier that a had a buddy perform a tune up. Now my buddy has disappeared and my truck miss fires on start up and occasionally looses power when you drive it. I also noticed that It consumes more gas. I went from 305 miles on a 17 gallon tank to 230 miles.
View 12 RepliesI have a 2002 Nissan Quest. It starts fine, idles great. But, when I try to accelerate, the car bogs, hesitates, misfires and I get p0300 random misfire, p0325 knock sensor. I get no dtc when it is just idling. The fuel pressure is fine, regulator works good, the cam sensor is clean, the coil tests good, the compression is good, as are the wires, cap and rotor.
View 2 RepliesI am working on this 99 Nissan and the issue is that the gauge shows the truck is over heating ,so we changed the thermostat ,the temp sending unit and that other thing next to that,and flushed the coolant system and bleed the system with new antifreeze and fresh water for the correct mixture..The truck still says its over heating ,the top hose hot and the bottom hose not anything more then it is when the truck hasn't been running.The truck starts right up and seems to run very well,then the gauge maxes right out and then wait for it to cool according to the temp gauge and drive a bit more,with in a mile its over heating again according to the gauge..I checked the oil and its perfectly fine and normal !I am so lost here,the radiator is like new and the clutch fan works right ,checked all the hoses and they are not collapsing ,water pump replaced a year ago...
View 1 RepliesMy 92 nissan truck 4x4 won't move. engine runs fine but after a couple stream crossings and parking it I can't get it to roll. It happened a few years ago and a mech. said it was rust lock in the brakes?
View 8 RepliesNissan Frontier 2004 with v6, air, automatic 4x4.... I only have luke warm air coming into my truck. The switch on dash switches from defrost to floor or thru dash . Was thinking maybe a switch under dash not working maybe, but do not know where to start looking.
View 3 RepliesI have a 98 frontier 4 cil. 4x4 manual transmission. The CE light is on telling me that the evap system needs work. I replaced the purge canister valve and now the light wont go off at all. You can clear it all you want, as soon as the truck starts the light come back on.The truck also runs rough, bucks at certain RPMS has no power and bad gas mileage. Within the last two years I have replaced; catalytic converter, fuel filter, plugs, wires, cap & rotter, transmission and clutch, air filter, cleaned the MAF sensor.
View 11 RepliesI have a Nissan Frontier, 2002, 4 cyl., manual 5 speed transmission. It seem to slip out of fourth gear, and only fourth gear, especially if I try to drive aggressively, or if I try to accelerate from fourth gear. It happens most when I am driving at lower speeds in fourth gear. Also, the colder the morning, the more likely it is to slip. IS this a transmission problem or a clutch problem (or something else), and what needs to be worked on or replaced- i.e. a whole system, or only a select couple of parts?
View 6 Replies2002 V10 72k, starts fine, runs fine, occasionally misfires and will stall at idle. So far.
Replace boots
Replaced Air Filter
Tested resistance in all coil packs all within value
CODE P0720 - OSS (replaced, knew it wasn't it but...)
Seafoamed truck (very anticlimatic)
Cleaned MAS
Headed to clean IAC next.
Still has the original plugs, any reason to change them yet?
Does the IAC have a function when engine is at temperature? Getting ready to bite the bullet on AE. Any first hand experience with AE? I STFF and couldn't find anything.
I'm about 90% convinced it's a bad COP, but I'm not about to buy 10 of them on I think. Also not inclined to switch each COP with a known good one. I'm hoping the AE will show misfires and pending codes.
Front end makes metallic rattling/clanking sound. This happens when I make a right-hand turn, and the noise comes from the left-front wheel area. I describe it as the sound of dropping a handful of pots and pans.
View 4 RepliesHave a 2002 Frontier supercharge nissan....in cold it is flooding out....blowing exhaust and knocking and shaking on start up. After it warms up and weather warms up during the day.....it well start up without the horrible knocking.......I am very good about oil changes and preventive maintenance. To date (in 2 months) the dealership has replaced: distributor, a distributor cap, injection throttle flush, spark plug and spark plug wires.... and it is still doing it....the cannot make it do the sound and blow smoke when they have my vehicle...... it is at shop now.....and they want more parts put in it.
View 8 RepliesSo a few weeks back, i went to the store after work, came out and my truck just cranked and cranked but wouldn't turn over. I simply turned the key off and back on, waited for the WTS light to go out and she started up. I just blew it off, thinking i didn't wait long enough to start it.
Then, later that week i come out of a restaurant and it cranks and cranks but doesn't start. i tried turning the key off and on, waiting 30 seconds between em and still nothing. Then a few minutes later, i try again and she fires up, no problems and runs like a champ.
Well 2 fridays ago, I go out with some buddies, go to leave and it happens again. Cranks and cranks, but not starting. I got a ride to my place, grabbed a fuel filter, thinking maybe its clogged, it's been awhile since i changed it. I got back to my truck, and it started up fine, without changing the filter.
Then last night as i am out of town, 10 hours away from home it happens again. And i kept trying and trying and trying but it never wanted to start. I was about to submit my payment for the Uber back to my hotel when i decide to try it again and it fired right up.
Now I'm kind of afraid to drive anywhere and shut off my truck in fear of being stranded. What could be causing this? I've looked every where and havent found someone with the exact same problem, usually when i find a thread on turning over but not starting, the truck dies once it runs as well. Mine doesn't. when it starts, she runs great.
No smoke coming out the tail pipe when cranking.
WTS light comes on and off as it should.
Tach does not move, and it won't because it's a 2002.
Where to start, would the CPS cause it to act this way? It only seems to do it when the engine is warm.
Every once in a while, my B5.5 1.8t will lose it's power. It has a Gonzo Stage 2 reflash on it, and a 3" cat back, everything else is stock. Right before I put the exhaust on, I went to go for a rip, and the car lost boost and the DV fluttered. I put another (used) DV on it from a 1.8t A4 the day I put my exhaust on, and the car ran better. Last week I was in a hurry, floored my car, and it seemed to have went into limp mode or leaked boost.
I could hear the turbo start to spool, and then it stopped at like 2500-3k. I parked the car when I got home, and the car was fine until yesterday, where it did the same thing again, with the same exact story. Today my car ran fine, and has decided to keep losing all day. I just ordered my boost gauge tonight, and plan to get a Forge DV, but idk what it could be. MAF?
Every day I make a u-turn around the median in order to get to our driveway...which means I turn the steering wheel all the way to the left. As I turn the wheel and drive, there is a clannnngKK sound on the driver's side from somewhere near the front. I wondered if there is something getting hung up/caught "under there" but have no real working knowledge (obviously) of my truck's anatomy. It only makes this noise when I make this u turn. I've not heard it any other time.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2002 Nissan Frontier with a non supercharged 3.3L v6. The truck is a crew cab, long bed and 4x4. I have had this truck since I bought it used in 2004 with 26k miles. The truck now has 196k miles and I have done a little modifying to make it a bit more off road capable.
I have done all the work to the truck myself, until last fall when I finally broke down and took it to a dealer, who was not able to find my problem, but I will get to that...First of all, the truck has steel bumpers, a winch, a tool box, onboard air system and large tires, all of which make the little 3.3L work hard. However, for three years since I quit making modifications, the truck ran perfectly cool and the temp needle never once went above the normal operating position, even through thick sand at the beach, mountain trails and towing heavy trailers, until last summer.
Late last summer, on 90+ degree days, I noticed the temp needle would start riding above normal when I had the AC on. It didnt matter if I was on the highway, the city streets or idling in the driveway. When I turned off the AC the needle went back to normal. This started happening occasionally at first (once every 2 weeks) then towards fall it started happening more frequently, almost every 90 degree day. Soon after I noticed the problem, it would happen even with the AC off, but not get quite so hot.
After a few weeks of this, I started chasing the problem. I replaced the radiator cap, the thermostat (tested the old one and tested the new one before installing,) I took the radiator to a rad shop and had it boiled and flow tested, I replaced both coolant temp sensors, and then finally the water pump. When none of those repairs made a difference I built new radiator fan shrouds and that made no difference. At this point I was starting to get discouraged so I borrowed a scan tool from a friend and drove around for a few weeks with it plugged in. I was reading live temperature readings of the coolant and verified that the gauge was working correctly.
The truck ran about 200 degrees with the AC off most of the time, then, when I turned the AC on, no matter if I was sitting in park or driving on the highway, the temp would steadily climb until it got to 222 degrees and I would shut off the truck, at that point the needle was near the danger zone and according to several nissan dealership, the highest normal operating temp is 204, but it should stay around 195. At 205 degrees, the needle would start to move above the normal position, so the gauge seems to be fine. As summer turned into fall, the truck started running cooler as the days began to drop into the 70's. I finally got fed up with chasing my tail and took the truck to a dealer with my main concern being a blown head gasket or cracked head.
The dealership inspected the head and tested the coolant for hydrocarbons and said that the head and gasket are not the issue. They advised that the only other thing it could be is my fan clutch. After that dealership visit, the days were cool so I drove the truck all winter without changing the fan clutch. Then, 2 weeks ago, on a 70 degree day, I hooked up my truck to an empty trailer (maybe 1000lbs) and towed it 15 miles. When towing up hill with the AC on, the temp needle started moving. I immediately went to napa and replaced my fan clutch. Confident that was the issue, I drove the truck to the mountains for a camping trip last weekend. While climbing the hills at 40mph and about 2500 rpm, the temp needle climbed to the near danger zone.
I let my son take the 07 nissan frontier out 4x4 off road driving. When I use 4x4 I try to not get stuck. When he uses it ,it involves splashing through deep mud holes and creating as much splash as possible. Now the power windows grind, and stick. Clearly the mud and sand has washed down into the mechanism.What can be done to salvage the windows before they fail entirely?
View 2 RepliesThe power steering fluid in my 2004 Nissan Frontier crew cab leaks as the weather turns cold, the colder it gets the worse it leaks.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2006 Nissan Murano with 122,000 miles on it. It's been a good car, but recently it has had a few episodes of losing power. Here's an example:
I had been driving the car here and there all day, and in the afternoon I swung by my mom's house to pick her up. When she got in the car (I had just been idling while waiting), I went to make a U-turn and the car outright died. I started it right back up and was able to drive to the end of the block before it lost power. It didn't die this time -- the engine was still on -- but all my electrical components went out -- radio, dashboard lights, AC -- and I couldn't get it to go more than 20 mph. That was flooring it. It wasn't giving me a high-pitched whine, just a low hum like it was trying really hard to go but couldn't. I turned it around and barely made it back up the hill to my mom's to park it. It just had no get-up-and-go. An hour or so later my dad came home and checked it out and of course it was fine. Started right up, drove fine.
This has happened twice since, both times I was driving on the freeway when I felt the loss of get-up-and-go and saw the electrical components go out. These times it only lasted maybe 10 seconds, after which it just came back to life in the middle of driving and drove fine the rest of the day.
It makes me think there must be some sort of loose connection somewhere? I'm frustrated by the issue because it's not repeatable. So when I took it to my mechanic, they said they couldn't find anything wrong. They hooked it up to a code reader and nothing came up, and they drove it around and around and it was fine. The idea that it could maybe strand me on the side of the road (I drive my kids around all day) scares me, so I've swapped cars with my husband for the time being. But I want my Murano back!
I have a 2002 f350 7.3. It was running fine 2 days ago. After I put some diesel in it my water in fuel light came on. I drained the water out and took all the fuel out and put fresh diesel in it. It starts up fine and idles okay but when I try to drive it it looses all power and acts like it's starving for fuel and almost dies. It was smoking white smoke for a little bit even after I took all the water out but now it's black. What it could be.
View 9 RepliesI have a 2006 Ford Escape that's turning into a mystery. Over the last few months the warning lights have been reporting issues with the overdrive. I've taken it to the mechanic who hasn't been able to identify the issue.
He's cleared the issues from the ECU, and the car doesn't complain for about 2 weeks, then it reports a different issue related to the overdrive (eg: OD or transmission).
Possibly related, the car occasionally loses power on acceleration. When taking off from a stop, it'll be really underpowered while getting up to speed. This only happens occasionally.
Is it a part failure, or could it be electrical or related to the sensors?
My wife and I recently moved to Panama and we bought a 4 wheel drive 2007 Nissan Frontera diesel pick-up. Great little truck so far, 27 miles per/gal! However, the 5 speed manual transmission has started making a loud whine or growl under power. Down hill, gas pedal up, no noise. Clutch in, no noise. Gas pedal down, growling .Growl is related to ground speed as it stays the same when I shift gears.
View 3 RepliesI have a 1996 Nissan Sentra GXE 1.6L automatic. It fails to start intermittently. It does not matter if the engine is hot or cold. It does not turn over and it seems the whole car has lost power (no engine warning lights, no power locks, etc).
I have taken the battery to be tested and it comes out "good." Once I put the battery back in, the car starts and power is restored to the entire car. The starter (1-month-old) and alternator (1-year-old) test out good also. I changed the inhibitor relay, but the problem occurred again 2 weeks later.
I also noticed one time when I attempted to jump the car with the negative jumper cable attached to the engine block of the dead car or to the negative battery terminal of the dead car, the car would just click (as though attempting to turn over). However, when I connected the jumper cable to the exposed part of the dead car's negative battery cable (right next to the battery cable connector), it starts.