Nissan - Frontier :: 2002 - Slipping Out Of Fourth Gear When Try To Accelerate
Sep 23, 2012
I have a Nissan Frontier, 2002, 4 cyl., manual 5 speed transmission. It seem to slip out of fourth gear, and only fourth gear, especially if I try to drive aggressively, or if I try to accelerate from fourth gear. It happens most when I am driving at lower speeds in fourth gear. Also, the colder the morning, the more likely it is to slip. IS this a transmission problem or a clutch problem (or something else), and what needs to be worked on or replaced- i.e. a whole system, or only a select couple of parts?
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my 2001 nissan frontier xe is making squeaking, slipping sounds past couple months. getting more frequents, scaring me to drive and felt like has brief loss of power couple days ago while parking.
someone told me power steering fluid is orange rust colored and gunnky and needs replaced which i dont know how or have tools for.
Video of it here. At around 1 minutes 54 second, and 2 minute mark, among others, the sound is audible. [URL] ....
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Front end makes metallic rattling/clanking sound. This happens when I make a right-hand turn, and the noise comes from the left-front wheel area. I describe it as the sound of dropping a handful of pots and pans.
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Have a 2002 Frontier supercharge nissan....in cold it is flooding out....blowing exhaust and knocking and shaking on start up. After it warms up and weather warms up during the day.....it well start up without the horrible knocking.......I am very good about oil changes and preventive maintenance. To date (in 2 months) the dealership has replaced: distributor, a distributor cap, injection throttle flush, spark plug and spark plug wires.... and it is still doing it....the cannot make it do the sound and blow smoke when they have my vehicle...... it is at shop now.....and they want more parts put in it.
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I have a 2002 Nissan Frontier that a had a buddy perform a tune up. Now my buddy has disappeared and my truck miss fires on start up and occasionally looses power when you drive it. I also noticed that It consumes more gas. I went from 305 miles on a 17 gallon tank to 230 miles.
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I have a 2002 Nissan Frontier with a non supercharged 3.3L v6. The truck is a crew cab, long bed and 4x4. I have had this truck since I bought it used in 2004 with 26k miles. The truck now has 196k miles and I have done a little modifying to make it a bit more off road capable.
I have done all the work to the truck myself, until last fall when I finally broke down and took it to a dealer, who was not able to find my problem, but I will get to that...First of all, the truck has steel bumpers, a winch, a tool box, onboard air system and large tires, all of which make the little 3.3L work hard. However, for three years since I quit making modifications, the truck ran perfectly cool and the temp needle never once went above the normal operating position, even through thick sand at the beach, mountain trails and towing heavy trailers, until last summer.
Late last summer, on 90+ degree days, I noticed the temp needle would start riding above normal when I had the AC on. It didnt matter if I was on the highway, the city streets or idling in the driveway. When I turned off the AC the needle went back to normal. This started happening occasionally at first (once every 2 weeks) then towards fall it started happening more frequently, almost every 90 degree day. Soon after I noticed the problem, it would happen even with the AC off, but not get quite so hot.
After a few weeks of this, I started chasing the problem. I replaced the radiator cap, the thermostat (tested the old one and tested the new one before installing,) I took the radiator to a rad shop and had it boiled and flow tested, I replaced both coolant temp sensors, and then finally the water pump. When none of those repairs made a difference I built new radiator fan shrouds and that made no difference. At this point I was starting to get discouraged so I borrowed a scan tool from a friend and drove around for a few weeks with it plugged in. I was reading live temperature readings of the coolant and verified that the gauge was working correctly.
The truck ran about 200 degrees with the AC off most of the time, then, when I turned the AC on, no matter if I was sitting in park or driving on the highway, the temp would steadily climb until it got to 222 degrees and I would shut off the truck, at that point the needle was near the danger zone and according to several nissan dealership, the highest normal operating temp is 204, but it should stay around 195. At 205 degrees, the needle would start to move above the normal position, so the gauge seems to be fine. As summer turned into fall, the truck started running cooler as the days began to drop into the 70's. I finally got fed up with chasing my tail and took the truck to a dealer with my main concern being a blown head gasket or cracked head.
The dealership inspected the head and tested the coolant for hydrocarbons and said that the head and gasket are not the issue. They advised that the only other thing it could be is my fan clutch. After that dealership visit, the days were cool so I drove the truck all winter without changing the fan clutch. Then, 2 weeks ago, on a 70 degree day, I hooked up my truck to an empty trailer (maybe 1000lbs) and towed it 15 miles. When towing up hill with the AC on, the temp needle started moving. I immediately went to napa and replaced my fan clutch. Confident that was the issue, I drove the truck to the mountains for a camping trip last weekend. While climbing the hills at 40mph and about 2500 rpm, the temp needle climbed to the near danger zone.
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Sooo. As I accelerate it feels like my rear gear box is slipping or grinding? idk but its getting progressively worse.
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2000 Nissan Pathfinder, 150k miles, automaticWhen I accelerate between 2nd and 3rd (from what it feels) the whole car shakes. No matter what speed I'm already at.I recently had both CV axles replaced. Transmission fluid doesn't have any flaky stuff or anything, it's pink though. The check engine light is always on, but it starts to blink when it starts to shake between 2-3 gear.
It's been doing this for about two weeks, nothing has changed, average 15 miles a day. No weird smells from the engine, leaking radiator fluid super slowly (was told to just keep filling it)To start the car I have to press the gas slightly.That's everything I know is wrong with it. I just want the shaking to stop. Does it sound like I need new transmission fluid or something?
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Question about a 4th cylinder misfire question? The engine light has been on off and on for about one year. I have not had any problems with performance until about one week ago. sometimes it shakes and the engine light flashes when it is idling. Today my husband drove it, and it would not accelerate when he put his foot on the gas, but it would pick up speed when he left his foot off the gas! Weird. This is an old car (2001 Ford Taurus station wagon) with 137,000 miles on it. We need this car.
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I just got my transmission replaced with a used transmission. Ever since we got it, it had been occasionally slipping on 2nd to 3rd. I thought it was most likely just adjusting to the new car as it started to get a little better, but it got worse. On the way back from McDonald's, about 3 miles, I stopped 4 times and it happened every time. It mostly only happens when it's at or below 2 rpm but it's happened once above it. The rest of the gears shift nicer than they have before and 2nd to 3rd can be the same way just not all the time. I plan on taking it back on Monday. Is there already a new problem with this transmission?
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I have a 2002 Honda Civic with about 167,000 original miles, I had my transmission rebuild about two months ago. Two things happened after: 1. The engine started to heat up. 2. Started to loose coolant for no reason. Well, after adding and driving for 8 weeks it stop losing coolant and cool to normal. Today I got a surprise on my way to school and work. It has started to over heat and the transmission is slipping on the 3rd gear. I do drive about 100 miles every day as I commute to work.
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My Jaguar X-Type has a 5-speed manual transmission, and when I am driving and shift up, sometimes it starts jerking pretty violently like it might be slipping out of gear, and I have to shift into another gear to get it to stop. It seems to be exacerbated if I am accelerating. I can always get it to stop by shifting, but am afraid at some point that it will not slip into another gear and I'll be stranded. I had a mechanic look at it but he has no idea what is causing the problem and I don't want to pay for multiple repairs that may or may not fix the problem! The car's got about 125,000 miles.
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2002 CAvalier 2.2 automatic with 123'000 miles. I was asked to look at this car for a slipping trans problem.
I drove the car about 3 miles and in 1st and Reverse it feels normal, even on a steep hill, but once it shifts into a higher gear the trans slips and you can go only about 15mph.It is shifting, because if you move the shifter into a lower gear while traveling....you can feel it downshift.
There is a code of P0502 Vehicle speed sensor. and there is no Trans fluid visible thru the filler cap on the trans top.
Previously someone else worked on this car for the slipping trans....changed some sensors....but couldn't fix the problem. The owners don't know what parts he replaced. He works for a Tire outfit and I've known him to lean towards used parts a lot.The previous mechanic convinced them that it needs a new Cluster. I presume he means instrument cluster.
I have a feeling that he just threw parts at it hoping that something would stick.
I presume that he replaced the VSS, and it didn't cure the problem.Come to think of it....the code could be from before the other persons work. I should have cleared the code and test drove it again.
I'm looking at dropping the pan, replacing the filter, refill the fluid, and replace the VSS
My questions: Could a instrument cluster have anything to do with the shifting problem.
Is the level of trans fluid supposed to be above the ledge under the filler cap, or is there a "full level" plug in the side of the trans. If he replaced the VSS with a new one....and the fluid level is good....whats my next step.
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I have a 98 Suburban with a 4l60e rebuilt 13 months ago, less than 15000 miles since. I have no second gear at all, but still no apparent slip at all in fourth. R,1,3 are fine. The fluid is a bit dark red, smells normal. There was a bit of the grey paste on the magnet but no obvious trauma. I did find a very small copper wire in there. It's about a 22 gauge, looks like it could have been a 3/8" ring or retainer.
I've replaced the servo, and of course fluid and filter. I pulled off the housing for the 1-2 piston but didn't have the right part to replace. I did not see anything cracked or cocked, it came out and went in fine. The main o ring did look fairly warn, but seemed all-right.
A transmission tester showed second gear being called for on a test drive. I did get a P1870 slippage code a couples weeks ago, I have since cleared it and it has not returned. Could the copper 'ring' be a retainer for something related? I'm guessing the solenoid, but I believe it also applies to 4th gear.
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I have a '99 Nissan Frontier 4cyl. p'up and the air conditioner kept going off. The truck has three drivebelts, all inline. The first is Crankshaft to the Power steering pump , the second goes from Crankshaft to the water-pump & the alternator and the third one goes to the air-conditioning compressor; the one that keeps coming off my truck & shutting down the A.C. I replaced it three times and the last time it went off within a couple of miles. I know the crankshaft and the A.C. compressor pulley's are out of line and believe that's my problem. A mechanic friend of mine looked at it and said he thought it was something called a belt-leveler that keeps all the belts from slipping off.
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It's a 2000 Frontier V6 4x4 CC with 104k miles. It just randomly dies going down the road. Sometimes it restarts. Sometimes it doesn't. Sometimes I just get a small blip (loss of spark or fuel - unsure which) when going down the road then it's fine again. It seems seems like a loose connection somewhere to me but I have checked and repaired everything I can find.
A little history of problems...
Fall 2014 - Fuel Sending Unit; I had similar problems a little over a year ago and I replaced this at ~90k miles. The stock one was corroded and the fuel pump wasn't getting power. Got the part from Nissan directly. Truck ran great for a year then started having same issues in fall of 2015. I am thinking this couldn't have gone bad again in only a year, but who knows? No engine codes at the time.
December 2015 - Distributor #1; I replaced it with one from Auto Zone. Had the same problems that day. Returned that and replaced with one from Napa Distributor #2 (New - house brand - supposedly made by Altrom - which is supposedly comparable to OEM) This seemed to fix it for a little while. At the same time I did the timing belt, spark plugs, wires, valve cover gaskets, a bunch of suspension work, etc. so I had the harness off. Did I knock something loose? I feel like I have checked it up and down.... doesn't seem that way.
January 2016 Bad Wire?; Same issues. Wiggling the harness into the distributor seemed to have an effect on restarting so I pulled the harness apart from the dist to the main and found a small cut on the casing of one of the ground wires. The wire was not damaged, just casing. Fixed that with a double layer of shrink tube and it ran fine again for a couple weeks. In this same period my catalytic converters also went bad. My exhaust manifolds cracked, next thing I knew I had catalytic converter codes on both sides of the engine. Ran it like this for a few months.
April 2016 Distrbutor #3 Same problem. Randomly dies. Gets progressively worse over a couple day period. I gave up and took it to a shop (Downing St. Garage in Denver, CO) They diagnosed it as a bad distributor so I had it replaced AGAIN (they were nice enough to use the Napa part I bought and get a free warranty part)
June 2016 Distributor #4 Same problem again. Still have not replaced cats - did not want to spend the money when the ignition problem seems un-related. Replaced distributor with another warranty part from NAPA. This time the one that I took off made a crunching sound when you turned it by hand.
August 2016 Finally replaced cats. CEL codes were gone for an afternoon then the truck started sputtering down the road again... CEL P1320 and CEL P0325 BACK AGAIN!
I am at a loss on what to do. I have read that the MAF sensor can get dirty... but this doesn't seem to explain the P1320. Anyway, I ordered some cleaner, a new knock sensor and another distributor (this time Nissan brand but re-manufactured... they no longer sell new ones.)
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Our mechanic is stumped. The Frontier runs hot when idling. The clutch fan and thermostat have been replaced. The radiator has been flushed. When you are driving or you turn off the A/C, the temp goes down. The next suggestion is to replace the radiator, but I'm already hundreds into this so I hate to do anything else unless I'm pretty sure it is going to fix it.
We do know that the catalytic converter needs replacing. Could this have anything to do with it?
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When I cut off the engine by mistake (shift slip ie ) the restart comes around but only after about 5 to 15 minutes . The last time this happened the car was at an intersection and this situation is getting dangeous.Why is the restart taking so long ?
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I have read two other threads that indicate a leaky head gasket for Nissan Frontiers overheating...but I'd like an opinion on my problem: I have a 1999, v6 3.3L, 4x4, manual Frontier that I have owned since 2001, always well-maintained, timing belt, water pump and thermostat already replaced a couple of years ago; currently has 129k mi. I rarely drive it (about once or twice a month).
Last time I drove it (I'm in AZ and heat was over 100 degrees) it started right up and was fine until I'd gone about 3 miles on the freeway doing about 65mph. Started to climb in temperature, but not into the red zone. I drove with it hovering just above the midway point (midway meaning perfectly normal temperature on my gauge) for a couple of more miles, when it started to climb just a bit more, I got off the freeway and dropped under 45 mph, the temperature went down to normal. I drove about 40mph back home and haven't driven it since.
I checked my coolant, which was extremely clean and not low, and was not boiling when I checked it soon after the temp went up on the freeway. What is the most likely cause?On a side note, since I do not drive it that often, what is recommended as to the gas that has been sitting in my tank since? How long does the gas stay good for? Further wondering how often it is recommended I drive it, for how long and at what sustained speed to keep my truck up and running?
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I have a 2000 Nissan Frontier that is a 4X4 and has the V6 engine. Mileage is 172,000+. For a few years, I have had problems with the AC no longer cooling after I drive 20 or so miles and stop the truck, go in a store and start back up only to find that the AC will not cool after the stop. This seems to happen more when the weather is hot. Only once has it gone out without stopping the car and it was on I40 driving trough Oklahoma in 100+ degree weather. Once it quits cooling, after driving 20 to 30 minutes, it usually starts to cool again. It sometimes speeds up the process if I roll the windows down.Coolant levels are fine.
So...is there a faulty sensor somewhere? What could it be that is the problem?
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We have a 2003 Nissan frontier pickup (automatic).The AC recently stopped cooling, but the fan works. It was cooling perfectly great when all of a sudden, it stopped. If we turn the AC on, the compressor (I'm guessing) starts to click and continues to click until turned off. (started to grind under hood). It's not a rattle, definitely a click as if it wants to turn on but can't make the electrical connection. It kind of sounds like when a starter has gone bad and it clicks. Except, it does it repetitively until turned off. This doesn't happen if we turn on the fan but leave the AC off. Does it sound like the compressor went out? How can we troubleshoot it?
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