Nissan - Frontier :: 2000 - Heater Doesn't Blow Air Unless On Highest Settings
Feb 1, 2011
I own a 2000 Nissan Frontier. Just recently while I was driving (in 15 degree icy conditions!) my heater, which was blowing on setting 2, stopping blowing air. I tried messing around with it, and found out that it won't blow any air on settings 1,2,or 3. It does, however, blow air on setting 4, but that is accompanied by a slight strange noise/vibrating of the dash. The coolant level looks fine and I haven't spotted any leaks anywhere that might indicate that it's the heating core. I thought it might be the resistor.
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The fan in my 2011 Matrix is only blowing on the highest setting (4), heat and air is ok. Is this a fuse issue?
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I'm having an issue with my heater/fan. When I started her up this morning, I noticed my heater (and fan for that matter) only work on the highest setting (4). It still blows hot, and runs at normal temp, but none of the vents are functional unless its blasting!
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I have a 94 ford Taurus all of a sudden my ac doesn't blow cold and my heat doesn't blow hot. Also every now and again I hear a sound like an alarm clock coming from passenger side??
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I bought a 2003 Nissan Frontier XE that is in really good condition. The only noticeable problem is that the knob that controls the fan speed of the heater and A/C only works in the 3 and 4 positions. I can here the belt engage when I turn the knob to 1 and 2, but no air comes out. So basically, July in Tennessee, it's either very hot in my truck or very cold.
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It's a 2000 Frontier V6 4x4 CC with 104k miles. It just randomly dies going down the road. Sometimes it restarts. Sometimes it doesn't. Sometimes I just get a small blip (loss of spark or fuel - unsure which) when going down the road then it's fine again. It seems seems like a loose connection somewhere to me but I have checked and repaired everything I can find.
A little history of problems...
Fall 2014 - Fuel Sending Unit; I had similar problems a little over a year ago and I replaced this at ~90k miles. The stock one was corroded and the fuel pump wasn't getting power. Got the part from Nissan directly. Truck ran great for a year then started having same issues in fall of 2015. I am thinking this couldn't have gone bad again in only a year, but who knows? No engine codes at the time.
December 2015 - Distributor #1; I replaced it with one from Auto Zone. Had the same problems that day. Returned that and replaced with one from Napa Distributor #2 (New - house brand - supposedly made by Altrom - which is supposedly comparable to OEM) This seemed to fix it for a little while. At the same time I did the timing belt, spark plugs, wires, valve cover gaskets, a bunch of suspension work, etc. so I had the harness off. Did I knock something loose? I feel like I have checked it up and down.... doesn't seem that way.
January 2016 Bad Wire?; Same issues. Wiggling the harness into the distributor seemed to have an effect on restarting so I pulled the harness apart from the dist to the main and found a small cut on the casing of one of the ground wires. The wire was not damaged, just casing. Fixed that with a double layer of shrink tube and it ran fine again for a couple weeks. In this same period my catalytic converters also went bad. My exhaust manifolds cracked, next thing I knew I had catalytic converter codes on both sides of the engine. Ran it like this for a few months.
April 2016 Distrbutor #3 Same problem. Randomly dies. Gets progressively worse over a couple day period. I gave up and took it to a shop (Downing St. Garage in Denver, CO) They diagnosed it as a bad distributor so I had it replaced AGAIN (they were nice enough to use the Napa part I bought and get a free warranty part)
June 2016 Distributor #4 Same problem again. Still have not replaced cats - did not want to spend the money when the ignition problem seems un-related. Replaced distributor with another warranty part from NAPA. This time the one that I took off made a crunching sound when you turned it by hand.
August 2016 Finally replaced cats. CEL codes were gone for an afternoon then the truck started sputtering down the road again... CEL P1320 and CEL P0325 BACK AGAIN!
I am at a loss on what to do. I have read that the MAF sensor can get dirty... but this doesn't seem to explain the P1320. Anyway, I ordered some cleaner, a new knock sensor and another distributor (this time Nissan brand but re-manufactured... they no longer sell new ones.)
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I have a 2000 Nissan Frontier that is a 4X4 and has the V6 engine. Mileage is 172,000+. For a few years, I have had problems with the AC no longer cooling after I drive 20 or so miles and stop the truck, go in a store and start back up only to find that the AC will not cool after the stop. This seems to happen more when the weather is hot. Only once has it gone out without stopping the car and it was on I40 driving trough Oklahoma in 100+ degree weather. Once it quits cooling, after driving 20 to 30 minutes, it usually starts to cool again. It sometimes speeds up the process if I roll the windows down.Coolant levels are fine.
So...is there a faulty sensor somewhere? What could it be that is the problem?
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My blower doesn't seem to blow very hard. I've been in other fords and the ac and heat blows great. Someone suggested that that I pull the fan motor and clean the blades.
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2000 Nissan Frontier: Only when hot, engine knocks from center of engine on right bank. Not consistent, intermittent, goes away when revving above 3k rpms. Ever since: Preventative maintenance was performed: Timing belt, oil pump, water pump, valves machined and re-seated, new guides. Idle is smooth and slightly high on cold start up, no vacuum leaks seen. Manifold vacuum is only 15.5 to 16 in/hg, returning code of knock sensor (believe due to knocking). Not a rod knock, not a valve tap. Possible wrist pin noise?
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Installing STs on my mk6 tomorrow. Doing it in a steep driveway. want to be on the highest setting when I leave. regular v1 st coil over.
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I got a new 2011 Subaru Legacy a few months ago and now that the weather is starting to get warm again I am finding that the AC really sucks!! Even on the highest settings it doesn't get above a cool breeze in the car. I grew up with an older legacy and the AC was awesome so is this just with the new Subarus or have I gotten another lemon?
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2000 f150 heater only got warm.
Flushed system, new thermostat, new coolant. Then NO warm air. A/C blows cold. Checked heater blend door and actuator both intact and working. Heater core not leaking, system holds pressure and doesn't leak.
Is there another automatic valve that could be shutting off flow to heater core?????
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I have a Chevrolet Prizm 1998 and the heat and cooling system only works on the highest setting which is actually the fan setting. When I have it on any of the other settings such as low or med nothing comes out, it doesn't work. I can hear it click on but nothing comes out. So when I'm driving depending on the weather I have the heat or cold air blasting out of the fan until it gets annoying and I turn it off. I've checked the fuses and they're good. I have not checked the relays because I'm not sure how to do that. I haven't taken it to a shop because I'm poor and don't have a trustworthy mechanic and it works just not on low or med. Should I have this looked at? I don't want to be causing any damage but it seems like it could be something simple.
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I find that my 2010 V6 is always cold in the winter. I always need to turn the temperature control to the highest, but there is still not enough heat. This morning, it was -11c outside. After I drove 10 KM (about 20 minutes) , inside the car is still very cold. My feet were frozen. The air from the vent is only warm, not hot. I also find that this car takes longer to warm up. The temperature gauge won't start to move until I drive about 2.5KM.
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Thought for sure that would fix my fan speed, but nope. Replaced blower control module, Still only blows on the highest setting. Didn't try running it on auto, but that's what it did on manually turning the speed up. What else could it be?
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I have a 2000 suburban with a 1500 motor and 300000 miles. Last year I replace the water pump and the thermostat. The heater would blow warm but not hot . But only when I start to drive. Yesterday I decide to change thermostat again thinking the new one from last year was faulty. Now the heater only blows cold air .
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My 2002 Altima A/C won't blow cold air. Took it to my mechanic who says all switches, fuses, relays, compressor clutch are OK and system has pressure, but the compressor is shot. In order to get a replacement that's guaranteed I have to get a receiver/dryer with it. Also says not to get a compressor from the salvage yard. I'm wondering if there are any other testing procedures that could be used to be certain it is the compressor....
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The A/C went out on my 2000 Nissan Quest. I took it to the shop and they couldn't find the problem and recommended not replacing the it because of the age and value of the car. However, the defroster doesn't work so it's almost impossible to see when it rains because the windshield has so much moisture on the inside. There is nothing blowing on it. Opening the windows did not work.
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Every day I make a u-turn around the median in order to get to our driveway...which means I turn the steering wheel all the way to the left. As I turn the wheel and drive, there is a clannnngKK sound on the driver's side from somewhere near the front. I wondered if there is something getting hung up/caught "under there" but have no real working knowledge (obviously) of my truck's anatomy. It only makes this noise when I make this u turn. I've not heard it any other time.
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I have a 2007 Nissan Versa and my AC will only run on the highest setting. The dealership suggested that the whole panel with AC dials needed to be replaced, they did say they were not sure this was the problem. In doing some research on the web I did see discussion regarding a Nissan Altima that had what sound like a similar problem and the fix was a part called the "blower resistor" which was much cheaper and could be fixed at home.
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I was wondering if there is a vent setting to just blow air through the cabin or is it required to set a temperature to have the fan blow air?
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