Nissan - Frontier :: 1998 - Whirring Or Humming Noise While Clutch Depressed
May 27, 2015
In my 1998 Nissan Frontier I had the clutch replaced at about 115,000 miles. That included a "clutch kit" which included a new throwout bearing. Currently, I'm at only 145,000 miles. Much of that is highway miles.
However, a noise has developed. It's a whirring or humming that happens when the clutch is depressed (disengaged). The noise is not present when the clutch is released in any gear, including neutral.
My first guess would be the throwout bearing, but again, that was replaced only 30,000 miles ago, and plenty of highway miles. The original lasted as long as the original clutch.
My second guess would be the pilot shaft bearing. That was not replaced with the clutch. (So the shop says.)
Any other guesses or advice? No matter the case, is it a problem if I leave it be? I can live with the noise if I know it's not really a problem.
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I have some serious vibration at about 40 to 50 MPH only when the accelerator is depressed. As soon as I let off the gas it stops. I have had the tires rotated and balanced and the U joints checked. My Mechanic says he can't figure it out and to drive it until it breaks.
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'99 Frontier (3.3L), 140k miles. Just had fan clutch, radiator and belts replaced. Now noticing that the a/c compressor clutch (pictured below) is noisy when the 3 discs stop spinning while I'm driving...it's a noticeable "clack" sound that I can hear with the windows UP.... is this normal? Is there any cure, like lubrication it needs? I pushed on the belts a bit, they don't seem too tight....
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I have a 98 f150 with a 4.2L V6 and a 5 Speed M5R2 manual transmission, I recently got a rebuilt trans for my truck. I installed it with no issues, while my truck was still on jack stands I tested it out, it shifted into every gear no problem but after I took it off the stands and pulled it out of my backyard, when I take off in 1st its fine with the clutch being slowly released, but as soon as I let go of the clutch the truck just buckles and some times tries to flat out stop.
I'm not sure if I have a Clutch issue, Transmission issue or axle issue, when I tried it out on jack stands I had the stands supporting the rear on the axles so some of the weight of the truck was and the rear axle and it didn't buckle then so I wouldn't think it'd be the axles but when it was on the ground it'll buckle. I even had someone move the truck forward and release the clutch slowly until in was fully releases and looked underneath and saw the axle buckle upward,
What the issue is it only does that when the clutch is released or if I'm lucky enough to release it without buckling once I go to shift to second and press in the clutch the whole truck just comes to a complete stop without the engine stalling. I thought maybe it was a clutch issue and that maybe I put the clutch plate backward(which I'm pretty sure I didn't)but even if I did, I wouldn't even be able to shift it into any gear, at least that's what I think. I bleed the clutch before taking it out so I don't think that could be the issue either.
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I have a 98 frontier 4 cil. 4x4 manual transmission. The CE light is on telling me that the evap system needs work. I replaced the purge canister valve and now the light wont go off at all. You can clear it all you want, as soon as the truck starts the light come back on.The truck also runs rough, bucks at certain RPMS has no power and bad gas mileage. Within the last two years I have replaced; catalytic converter, fuel filter, plugs, wires, cap & rotter, transmission and clutch, air filter, cleaned the MAF sensor.
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I've heard about stuck valves or lifters causing the ticking noise, I try to drive slow until it warms up, but what would a better treatment for this issue?
Also, the anti freeze got contaminated with the transmission fluid. Now there are days when it doesn't shift into reverse (hesitates). The dealer doesn't fix “intermittent”, but the transmission and radiator were replaced
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I've been driving manual transmission vehicles - from my '72 Pinto to big trucks - for 40 years. This happened recently in a VW Golf I had rented: While driving down a mountain in a tunnel in Norway, with the clutch depressed, there was a loud POP noise.The clutch became engaged, and the clutch pedal did nothing. I'll spare you the details of the harrowing aftermath, the language barrier issues in the sticks of Norway and such. In the end, the rental company is charging us a couple thousand bucks for breaking their car. I maintain it was not Driver Error. My local VM service manager indicated that the Slave Cylinder on the Golf has been a problem for years, and is probably what went bad, but - as a rep of VW - is not willing (allowed) to put that in writing. The garage that fixed the Golf indicated it was Driver Error. I'm guessing everything tranny-wise got beat up when the Slave gave out, making it look like I'm a bonafide Clutch Masher.
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I noticed it a little after driving for days on very snowy/slushy/gritty roads where I had to plow some parking spots with my little 2013 C3. Tonight I was driving into Vancouver and back at 100+kph and noticed like a whirring sound or like a higher pitched humming sound possibly from drivers side front tire?? A little vibration felt through the wheel.
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Of course that means that labor is very expensive to replace this part. Nobody seems to want to take the time to replace the part, except the dealer who wants $500 labor to do it. I have found dash diagrams and since it is cooling off lam thinking about taking on the project myself. With the vehicle having such low mileage, and little stress being put on the part, I feel that the part is of low quality and replacement should be covered on some kind of warranty. Nissan probably feels it is not a safety issue, but the noise is very annoying, and certainly lowers the value of my vehicle, that has otherwise been pampered and in like new condition.
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I have a 2002 Subaru Impreza WRX and recently it started making a squealing noise while the clutch is depressed at low speeds. I've researched that it's likely the pilot bearing or bushing? My questions are: should I have the entire clutch replaced? How much should it cost? And will I cause more problems if I wait too long to do anything? How long can I wait?
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I have a 2006 lexus es 330 that just turned over 90,000 miles. My dad and I have done the regular maintenance on it so far but this weekend after a 3 hour drive, I turned the car back on and a loud whirring/humming/whining noise was coming from the engine. It gets slightly louder with acceleration, but I can barely hear it once I've picked up speed (but it's still there.) It still happens when I am in neutral. It sounds like it is coming from the passenger side of the engine. Close to the power steering pump area, but the power steering fluid is full (although it is a very dark/black color and has a slight smell...not sure if this is normal.) I'm not having any trouble or hesitation while steering. The rack is operating smoothly and it is not leaking. I plan on taking it into the shop but wanted to go in educated.
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2001 Escape 4x4, automatic trans 4x4
Getting a pretty loud "whirring" or humming noise from under the car while driving 30+ mph. It seems like a wheel bearing noise, but coming from directly under the center console area. My thoughts are either the driveshaft center support or the transfer case, I can't find much on it though.
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I have a 2011 Tiguan 125TSI with the 7 speed DSG. When it starts cold, you can hear a noise that sounds like a bad gear change when going from 3th to 4th, and 4th to 5th. It almost sounds like changing gears in a manual car without clutch completely depressed. It has been there since I got the car brand new, but recently it seems to be getting worse.
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I've asked the VW dealer about the sound and they tell me it is normal. Is this right? The problem is it is very hard to demonstrate to VW the issue since it may happen only once when the engine is cold. I've left it with the dealer overnight and they were able to reproduce it in the morning... but again, they tell me this is normal.
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2007 Accent with 86k miles. It's not very noisy but sounds a bit sick. It seems to shift fine.
I checked engine oil and the manual transaxle oil. Do I need a new clutch?
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2000 GTI
260,000 miles (60% highway)
2.0L 4cylinder AEG
All stock.
I have a new issue developing on the clutch of my car. When I fully press the clutch pedal to change gear, I hear cacophony of grinding, hissing and whirring noise, probably coming from gearbox. When I take my foot off of the clutch pedal completely, the noise is gone. half clutch has reduced amount of these noises. I had this symptom briefly one night two weeks ago and when I topped up oil, this was gone. Tonight, it is back.
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I have a weird issue with my 2002 4x2 manual Nissan Xterra...when I drive along (usually happens when I'm in 3rd or 4th gear), and depress the clutch pedal to start slowing down for traffic, while the gear lever is still in the 3rd or 4th gear position, the rpms start coming down as the car coasts, but then a strange grinding/whirring/grumbling noise starts happening. The noise immediately goes away if I pull the gear lever into neutral, OR if I re-engage the clutch to start accelerating again. So, it only happens when BOTH the clutch pedal is depressed, AND the gear lever is "in gear". What could this be? The car has about 115K miles, but I believe the previous owner changed the clutch recently (80-90K), and the clutch itself feels fine.
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I own a 1971 Ford F-250 Custom with the 4 Speed Synchronized Warner T-18 transmission. When I put in the clutch, once it engages, it makes a very loud whirring noise. I'm not concerned about the noise as much as possible issues with the transmission itself.
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Have a 2001 Maxima GLE with 220,000 plus miles. Lately, at times I turn the key and hear nothing but a humming sound. If I keep trying to start it, eventually it will start. Battery was tested by AAA and is OK.
Sometimes, even on the chillier mornings lately, it starts right up the first time. Sometimes it takes two or three tries, at times seven or eight tries. On those occasions, like I noticed tonight at the grocery store, the lights on the clock (and maybe the dash, but I wasn't looking at that) are slow to come on as I keep trying to start it.
Took it to my mechanic a couple of weeks ago, and of course it started just fine for him. He thought it might be the fuel filter, but that's not an easy fix if we aren't sure. He thought that once it won't start at all, it will be easy to figure out.
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