I have a Nissan 98 frontier 4wheel drive 4 cylinder king cab. I just changed the windshield washer pump and since then the brake and battery indicator lights stay on. I disconnected the battery and that didn't work. The battery checks out and I could find the switch for the parking brake to check it. Sounds like a short in the wiring harness somewhere.
View 7 RepliesI have a 2001 Nissan frontier SE the 6cylinder, no turbo, automatic transmission. My wife was not paying attention and thought the truck was running and so she put it in reverse and then realized that the truck as not running so she tried to start it while in reverse, when that didnt work she put it back into park and when she tried to start it, the cd player restarted and the wipers started and the guages peaked and whe truck made a fast ticking sound. i thought that it may have some how killed the battery but it does the same thing with the new battery in.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2004 Nissan Frontier with V6 non-supercharged engine, 4x4, with manual transmission, 150k miles. For approximately the last 30k miles, I have had a persistent shuddering in the cab when I apply the brakes slowing from about 15 to 0 MPH. It is accompanied by a low humming noise that decreases in pitch as the truck slows down. It only happens when the brakes are warm; about 70+ degrees outside or after I've been slowing down a lot. It does not seem to correspond to engine temperature, only my perceived temperature of the brakes. There is no pedal feedback, and it does not shudder when I stop using only the parking brake. It does not seem to affect stopping distance.
I first tried to fix it by doing a very thorough front/rear brake job - new pads/shoes, new rotors/drums, and repacked front wheel bearings. That had no effect on the problem. I tried rotating the tires and that had no effect. I then did a complete front end job and replaced all the bushings and balljoints via brand new pre-assembled control arm assemblies. I also replaced the tie rod assemblies, sway bar bushings/end links, and had an alignment done. That had no effect.
Based on the repairs I've done, I would assume that it is having to do with the front brakes, but is not warped rotors or anything in the front suspension.
I have a 2001 NISSAN Frontier that the hi-mount third brake light appears the be going out. I've trie to remove the plastic light bezel but a clip is holding in the connector. I'm afraid to use too much force while pushing in the clip with a flat head screwdriver but that is the only thing I know to use. The lights are dim and seem to flicker as the brake pedal is pressed.
View 1 RepliesHow to get the gear indicator lights to stay on? I can do it manually but it has to be every time I restart the motor. I think it completes the instrument cluster with it one.
View 9 RepliesAfter starting my truck the dash warning lights (oil, battery, brake, low fuel) stay lit and flicker for 20-30 seconds then go out with the exception of the battery light. It remains dimly lit for 2-3 minutes before finally going out. The battery and alternator have tested OK. I cleaned the battery ground connections andreplaced the check light relay. Still the same situation. '86 Nissan Hardbody Pickup ....
View 1 RepliesThe brake lights stay on when I turn the lights on. If the light switch is off they work fine. Is this a brake switch? Or something else.....
View 3 RepliesNissan Pathfinder SE-V6 4x4 My blinkers quit working, but flashers still come on. All 3 brake lights also went out but tail lights still work. when the car is cranked and blinker is on there is a buzzing (alert) sound and the oil temp light comes up on the dash, there is no sound when the key is in the on position, only when it is cranked. Occasionally there is a crackle through the speakers that usually goes away when I turn it off. I don't know if the last part is relevant but I figured I would put it in anyway. Is this an easy fix or are there serious electrical problems?
View 1 RepliesI have a Canadian spec TDI highline trim with automatic headlights. I generally do not lock it when I park in my garage at home. Last night I parked it and came out this morning to see that the running lights, but not the headlights, were on. The battery was basically dead and I had to boost it to get going.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2007 Sonata. The parking lights won't switch off without a turning the lights on and off for some time. Repeated attempts can turn them off, but you have to check the car in a hour to see if they have come back on. The dealer stated this was a known defect of the fuse box assy, but there is no recall. 800.00 repair according to the dealer.Without an alternative, I am considering ordering the assy and changing myself.
View 5 RepliesI'm running a euro switch on my 05 V8 and I just noticed some weird battery fluctuations for specific light configurations.
In particular, if I run the parking lights (without the headlights)and the front fog lights together, the battery indicator jumps around between 13 and 14 on the console readout. For any other position on the euro switch, the battery charge indicator stays locked onto 14 (where I would expect it to be). I can reproduce the issue easily and haven't found another direct cause. There haven't been any other battery symptoms that I've noticed, so this one seems a bit peculiar.
2007 Sante Fe Limited original owner. 87000 miles, great car. Having a problem with battery light coming on and then going off, also seat belt light off and on but no sound. The other night my ESC light came on for a while. New battery, alternator and serpentine belt installed a few months ago.
View 25 RepliesI just did a brake job on my 2002 2.7l and 10 minutes after driving both the e brake and battery indicator light came on not the abs. It is not throwing any dtc codes also. Did I do something wrong or is it a coincidence meaning my alternator is crapping out? I replaced all pads and front rotors and sucked out some dirty fluid and added clean fluid. It brakes properly and I do not believe I got air in the system.
View 4 RepliesReceived a battery jump in the dark from a friend who mistakenly had crossed the polarity. It blew the 150amp alternator fuse which is now replaced. Now, the ABS, ESC Off and brake lights stay on after starting. I have checked all fuses and the main relay, both under the hood and in side of dash, and cannot figure out what is causing this. The auto shift lever is locked out and I don't want to override it not knowing if it will cause any damage. Also, what protocol OBD system would this auto fall under?
View 9 RepliesI have a '99 Nissan Frontier 4cyl. p'up and the air conditioner kept going off. The truck has three drivebelts, all inline. The first is Crankshaft to the Power steering pump , the second goes from Crankshaft to the water-pump & the alternator and the third one goes to the air-conditioning compressor; the one that keeps coming off my truck & shutting down the A.C. I replaced it three times and the last time it went off within a couple of miles. I know the crankshaft and the A.C. compressor pulley's are out of line and believe that's my problem. A mechanic friend of mine looked at it and said he thought it was something called a belt-leveler that keeps all the belts from slipping off.
View 2 RepliesI have a 03 Passat with the 1.8T motor. I'm having a problem where the tail lights / brake lights will not turn off. Which fuse to remove so that I can save my battery.
View 4 RepliesSeveral times now I have found that the courtesy lights stay ON after all the doors are closed, and the dash switch is indeed off. This has caused the battery to drain.
I have opened and closed all doors numerous times and the light won't go off. I can't seem to find where the door switches are so that I can inspect them.
The last time this happened I was forced to remove the fuse, then the next day I put the fuse back in and the lights operated correctly.
It's a 2000 Frontier V6 4x4 CC with 104k miles. It just randomly dies going down the road. Sometimes it restarts. Sometimes it doesn't. Sometimes I just get a small blip (loss of spark or fuel - unsure which) when going down the road then it's fine again. It seems seems like a loose connection somewhere to me but I have checked and repaired everything I can find.
A little history of problems...
Fall 2014 - Fuel Sending Unit; I had similar problems a little over a year ago and I replaced this at ~90k miles. The stock one was corroded and the fuel pump wasn't getting power. Got the part from Nissan directly. Truck ran great for a year then started having same issues in fall of 2015. I am thinking this couldn't have gone bad again in only a year, but who knows? No engine codes at the time.
December 2015 - Distributor #1; I replaced it with one from Auto Zone. Had the same problems that day. Returned that and replaced with one from Napa Distributor #2 (New - house brand - supposedly made by Altrom - which is supposedly comparable to OEM) This seemed to fix it for a little while. At the same time I did the timing belt, spark plugs, wires, valve cover gaskets, a bunch of suspension work, etc. so I had the harness off. Did I knock something loose? I feel like I have checked it up and down.... doesn't seem that way.
January 2016 Bad Wire?; Same issues. Wiggling the harness into the distributor seemed to have an effect on restarting so I pulled the harness apart from the dist to the main and found a small cut on the casing of one of the ground wires. The wire was not damaged, just casing. Fixed that with a double layer of shrink tube and it ran fine again for a couple weeks. In this same period my catalytic converters also went bad. My exhaust manifolds cracked, next thing I knew I had catalytic converter codes on both sides of the engine. Ran it like this for a few months.
April 2016 Distrbutor #3 Same problem. Randomly dies. Gets progressively worse over a couple day period. I gave up and took it to a shop (Downing St. Garage in Denver, CO) They diagnosed it as a bad distributor so I had it replaced AGAIN (they were nice enough to use the Napa part I bought and get a free warranty part)
June 2016 Distributor #4 Same problem again. Still have not replaced cats - did not want to spend the money when the ignition problem seems un-related. Replaced distributor with another warranty part from NAPA. This time the one that I took off made a crunching sound when you turned it by hand.
August 2016 Finally replaced cats. CEL codes were gone for an afternoon then the truck started sputtering down the road again... CEL P1320 and CEL P0325 BACK AGAIN!
I am at a loss on what to do. I have read that the MAF sensor can get dirty... but this doesn't seem to explain the P1320. Anyway, I ordered some cleaner, a new knock sensor and another distributor (this time Nissan brand but re-manufactured... they no longer sell new ones.)
Our mechanic is stumped. The Frontier runs hot when idling. The clutch fan and thermostat have been replaced. The radiator has been flushed. When you are driving or you turn off the A/C, the temp goes down. The next suggestion is to replace the radiator, but I'm already hundreds into this so I hate to do anything else unless I'm pretty sure it is going to fix it.
We do know that the catalytic converter needs replacing. Could this have anything to do with it?
When I cut off the engine by mistake (shift slip ie ) the restart comes around but only after about 5 to 15 minutes . The last time this happened the car was at an intersection and this situation is getting dangeous.Why is the restart taking so long ?
View 2 RepliesI have read two other threads that indicate a leaky head gasket for Nissan Frontiers overheating...but I'd like an opinion on my problem: I have a 1999, v6 3.3L, 4x4, manual Frontier that I have owned since 2001, always well-maintained, timing belt, water pump and thermostat already replaced a couple of years ago; currently has 129k mi. I rarely drive it (about once or twice a month).
Last time I drove it (I'm in AZ and heat was over 100 degrees) it started right up and was fine until I'd gone about 3 miles on the freeway doing about 65mph. Started to climb in temperature, but not into the red zone. I drove with it hovering just above the midway point (midway meaning perfectly normal temperature on my gauge) for a couple of more miles, when it started to climb just a bit more, I got off the freeway and dropped under 45 mph, the temperature went down to normal. I drove about 40mph back home and haven't driven it since.
I checked my coolant, which was extremely clean and not low, and was not boiling when I checked it soon after the temp went up on the freeway. What is the most likely cause?On a side note, since I do not drive it that often, what is recommended as to the gas that has been sitting in my tank since? How long does the gas stay good for? Further wondering how often it is recommended I drive it, for how long and at what sustained speed to keep my truck up and running?