Nissan - Altima :: Shuts Off While Driving At 30 Mph Or Less And Starts Back Up After 5 - 10 Minutes
Apr 11, 2011
Over the past couple months my car (187k miles on it) shuts off while I'm driving it, about once a week, sometimes less. It only seems to happen while driving 30 mph or less and starts back up after 5-10 min. I'm trying to sell it now and don't know how to explain what is going on with the car w/o putting someone off completely. I'm sure it's fixable, I just don't want to deal w/it anymore and need a larger vehicle.
View 3 Replies
Advertisement
I have a 2005 Nissan Altima 2.5L 4 cylinder. About a month ago I had check engine light come on and required to replaced the catalytic converter. I replaced it myself with one from Autozone. Now 2 weeks after replacing it; every now and then I'll be driving let off the gas and when I get back on the gas the car starts missing. It has happened several times in the last few days. The car does smooth out after a few seconds but is a hassle and a worry.
View 9 Replies
I have a 1995 Nissan Altima GXE 4cyl and it has been rough idling for a while now but now I have this new problem. While I drive the car and after it has warmed up, the car shuts off when I'm at a stop. When I'm at speed, it runs just fine and smooth and I only have problems at stops. I then restart the car just fine and continue driving. I'm having to keep doing this over and over. What could be the cause or causes for this?
View 4 Replies
I wrote about the problem I was having back in Jan 2014 (engine would crank too long if I left the car parked for 30 mins to 4 hrs) ..... well, I finally brought it o a good diagnosis tics place and some of the guys that replied to me we're correct ..... they told me that the crankshaft position sensor (1of 2 sensors) was faulty and replaced it.
View 3 Replies
I have a 2001 Nissan Altima with a few miles on it.(217,734) The A.C. works great while it is on, but it will stop working then start back up. Out of frustration I will turn it off and on until it starts up again. It will run for a little bit then cut out again and I repeat the process. I have switched out the relays and checked the belts, all is well there. What could be the problem?
View 5 Replies
I have a 2007 nissan Altima and the sun roof is not working. It does not go back when you press the button. The vent will go up when you press the vent button on the sunroof but the sunroof itself will not go back. I have checked fuses and it's not that. Also it seems that the top of the sunroof on the outside of the car seems to be dropping down slightly on the left side. Could it be off track?
View 2 Replies
I'm having two slightly strange issues with a 2007 Nissan Altima 2.5S...
First, after driving for about 30 minutes on warmer/hot days (above 85 degrees) the temperature gauge starts rising and then the A/C starts blowing out hot air for a while. After a minute or two the temp gauge goes back down and the A/C goes cool again. The only reason I bring it up is this something new that has never happened before, even in the hottest summers and it only happens when it over 85/87 degrees.
Second issue is a bit stranger... After driving for 20-30 minutes the car will start "jumping". It feels like the engine loses a cylinder and then it kicks back on. It almost feels like the car is stuttering, if that makes any sense. This happens intermittently and only after driving for a slightly extended period of time. It also seems to be independent of the speed at which I am traveling. I took it to the Nissan dealer and they said they couldn't reproduce the problem and couldn't really look into anything because the Check Engine light was not on, so they had no code to go by, or something to that effect.
View 2 Replies
This is what its doing... Im starting to feel lost about whats wrong. I start it up and everything is fine. With in about 10 minutes it starts to bubble and spit out a little water then shuts its self off. And the gauge on the dash never reads above 190. And the fans don't come on unless i turn the ac on. And the ac still blows cold. The lower hose stays cold. I just replaced the thermostat and the water pump. But it changed nothing. Im thinking maybe its clogged somewhere. Maybe in the heater core or the radiator.
View 1 Replies
I have 1995 Nissan Altima and it will not start. When I jump the car battery with the jumper cable and when the Cables are connected, the Car starts. As soon as I take the jumper cables out, the rpm drops and immediately the Car engine dies (stops). I checked the battery with Digital Multimeter and the batter is good. This Car was run on very low engine oil (way below the "Low" mark on the Dip stick for 3 days running 30 to 40 miles/day. 2 or 3 months, I noted that engine oil "Low" indicator on my dashboard and did not get oil change immediately. Since this car is my second car, I do not use it every day. It is parked always, and I start it once in 3 or 4 days and run it for 20 minutes to make sure that Battery will not go down. Few weekends before this problem, the car started well and I did not notice any "low" engine oil indicator on the dashboard. So, I never changed the engine oil as I forgot about it.
3 weeks back, I gave the Car to a friend of mine who came here from another state. He took it to his office ( 15 mile away ) and in the evening the car would not start. Finally, someone had jump started power station and they jumped the car with it. The car started Next day, he did not use this car. 3rd day, the car started when I jumped the car in the morning, and he took it to an office and did not have any problems coming back (total 30 to 40 miles). 4th day, he went to an office in the morning and when he was coming back, the Car died on the road. He got it jumped 1or 2 times and came very close to my home. It died again. After 1 or 2 hours, I came back from office and pressed the gas pedal few times and started it. It started and when I was in my parking place, it died again. Finally, when I parked in the parking lot, I noticed that the steering wheel (it is power steering) became very stiff and would not turn. Also, I noticed smoke smell when I opened the hood. I had to drop my friend in the airport, so I took my good car and took him to airport.
Afterward, I tried to start with jumper cable. The car will start and the engine runs when it is still connected to another car with cables. As soon as I disconnect the cable the rpm drops and engine dies. After noticing that the dip stick shows the oil is way below "Low" mark (there was still some oil on the "tip" of drip stick), I put in 2 quarters of engine oil. I tried starting with jumper cables. The car starts and the engine runs when the jumper cables are connected, when I take them out, the rpm drops and the engine dies. Considering the following:
- This car needs to be towed to the nearest mechanic.
- The Battery is Good and I do not know about the alternator. I noticed "smoke" smell under the hood near engine and alternator when I jumped the Car when my friend was using it. Also, there was lot of noise from the engine when my friend used it for 3 or 4 days (now, I know that it is because there was almost no engine oil). Did the smoke I noticed is because alternator got burnt or due to the burning of gadget b/w engine upper and lower block etc (expensive)?
- The drop in rpm when I disconnect jumper cables - is it due to major damage to the engine. If so, is it worth taking the car to the mechanic and getting repaired.
- If it is not worth repairing this Car, what is the least effective way, I get read of this Car? I want to know whether any car dealer or mechanic shop will buy it for parts etc.
View 10 Replies
For the last few months while I'm driving on the highway my car will misfire and the check engine light comes on. Every time is the same two codes for crankshaft and camshaft sensor failure. I've replaced the easier one to get to but it still happens. A friend suggested to clean my spark plugs...
View 6 Replies
I have a 4 cylinder, 2002 Nissan Altima with about 170,000 miles on it. About 2 months ago, the car starting misfiring while driving and the engine light came on. I went to autozone, used their diagnostic tool and it said I needed to replace the fourth cylinder's ignition coil. I ended up just replacing the spark plugs at that point. After replacing the spark plugs, the misfiring seemed to stop, but the check engine light was still on although the car ran great in comparison.
Then, about 2 weeks ago, the car started smelling like gas and slightly misfiring again. I bought set of ignition coils and changed them out. I started it up, the car seemed to work great. I went to the store about an hour later and the car worked better all the way there with no problems. Then, as I was about to leave the store, I started the car up and it started sputtering and misfiring and you could visibly see the engine shaking like crazy when I popped the hood. It stopped shaking, evened itself out, after about a minute. Then, I felt the top each of the coils and the first three were fine, but the fourth had a rapid tapping coming from it that was obviously not right.
I gave it a couple of days, but the car didn't stop smelling like gas or misfiring when starting up, so I pulled out the ignition coils and the spark plugs. The fourth spark plug was brown and burnt from the bottom to the halfway point, unlike the other still-clean spark plugs. My first hopeful thought was, maybe it wasn't tight enough and that was letting gas or oil inside to burn. I tightened it up, put everything back and it seemed to be alright, even the tapping from the coil stopped.
However, within the last couple days, the car has been smelling like gas and feels like it sputters and misfires once I start it up. The misfiring seems to stop after I rev the engine a little bit, but sometimes when I'm idling, you can still smell the gas and sometimes audibly hear a sputtering.
So my question is: what the hell could be wrong? Faulty wires, a stuck valve, bad compression, what? Remember, the fourth cylinder's spark plug was only burnt on the bottom half if that's useful.
View 19 Replies
Do I buy an engine or sell the car for parts? My son’s car overheated while driving down the hwy due to a radiator leak. After a first and second opinion, two separate mechanics told me the engine has no compression so basically was shot. The car was in good shape with 102k miles and everything worked. Internet surfing has some used engines with 80-100k miles from $800-$1200, some guaranteed some not. Is it better to rebuild the original engine or buy another used one? Labor cost on top of an engine wont be cheap. Are other parts under the hood expected to be replaced too as a result of the engine overheating?
View 3 Replies
My Nissan Altima is normally fine but after about 40 minutes to an hour of driving even in cool temperatures the car stops wanting to accelerate much and the RPM needle will jump from 1-2k to 5k almost instantly when applying more gas. I can be at 5k RPMs and barely climb 1 to 2 mph every few seconds in my car. This issue will persist till I turn the car off for a short while. Once The car has cooled down and been idle for a bit the car works fine again for 40 to 60 minutes. I also don't want to take it in because I doubt they'll get the problem to reproduce unless they drive it for up to an hour.
View 10 Replies
I have an automatic 1994 Nissan Bluebird which I think is equivalent to the Nissan Altima in the US.
My car seems to jerk whilst driving, not specifically under load. Sometimes when I'm in park with my foot on the brake, it feels like its very subtly jerking on the spot. It is a sporadic condition, sometimes my car won't jerk at all (or very few times) on the way to work, and other days it will jerk a lot. On the whole it seems to be getting worse though. When switching between gears when stopped it changes quite roughly (but not violently). Turning on the AC makes the condition worse. It has stalled once in reverse, and sometimes feels like it will stall again when I'm slowing down.
When it does jerk I can hear a noise that sounds faintly like a can of coke being opened (quick sharp pressure release), and it seems like something (possibly a belt) is losing traction/slipping and quickly regaining its grip. My first suspicion was the drive belt or one of the other belts slipping or something like that. Other possibilities I suspect are, from looking through the Hayne's manual:
-Something to do with the transmission (I checked the transmission fluid and it seems fine, very light brown but mostly transparent)
-Fuel filter clogged or fuel line problems (1.5 years ago the car wouldn't start, and a mechanic had to manually inject fuel through the injection nozzles. The fuel was near empty however)
-Spark plugs gap wrong or damaged
-Distributor components damaged (the distributor and alternator were changed last year and swapped in with 2nd hand parts, also the mechanic was very shifty and I think he hacked it into my car without too much care for good wiring, fittings, etc).
Also, I took the car to a mechanic last week and he thought it was the spark plugs, but I think the problem may be more serious than that. He also wanted to flush the transmission fluid but I think I will give this a miss since I checked the fluid and it seems fine, plus I heard flushing the fluid in an old car may have negative effects.
View 1 Replies
I own a 2006 Nissan Altima with about 90500 miles on it. Recently i took it in for service and to fix a problem where the car was making this metallic sound while driving. The mechanic discovered that the sound was caused by a low engine oil level causing the timing belt tension to lose pressure and make the sound.
The mechanic also found a Nissan Service Recall/Campaign (NTB06-082) related to Engine Oil Consumption where the following occurs: "extremely low engine oil level resulting from higher than normal engine oil consumption due to a manufacturing problem in some engines". NTB06-082 states that the first thing the dealer should do if the recall applies is reprogrammed the ECU followed by doing an engine oil check.
What steps I should follow to get the Nissan Dealership to take a look at this particular issue? I imagine that it's going to be hard convincing them that the NTB06-082 may apply to my vehicle.
View 9 Replies
Sonata NF 2.0 ... 3 days ago, my care drove for - 4 minutes then engine shut down. Try to re-start the car but unavailable. I towed the car to workshop, they claimed high possibility is the fuel pump faulty.
Initially a check was done found fuel pump good (the technician disconnect the tube before the fuel injector assembly). They did a diagnose test found no error code registered.
Subsequently check on the fuel pump found no fuel come out before the fuel injector assembly (same as previous, disconnected before the assembly). Fuel pump was replaced. The engine can start running but will shut down after a while.
What is the possible cause and how to identify the root cause.
View 4 Replies
I Have a 93 bronco with a5.8 the truck will start up and run fine for a while and then the engine gets really ruff starts back firing and shuts off it only starts with starting fluid or after it sits for about 30 mins.
View 7 Replies
I just returned after leaving LS 460 in garage for 5 months. Car & a/c start up fine but after 5 minutes of driving the a/c shuts down & can not be re-started until I shut off the engine. I re-start the car and again after about 5 minutes, the a/c shuts down. All a/c panel lights are off except "outside temperature". In the dashboard console where the outside temperature is normally displayed there is an "E" displayed instead. The coolant fluid level is fine.
View 7 Replies
My 2005 Nissan frontier reeks badly.
Has new air filters and new cabin filters. Only seems to smell when driving at 55mph for about 20 minutes, the funk comes from the vents and in all heat/AC and fan modes seems to be less stinky in the winter.
Nothing is dead in the heater box because it does not stink in when driving around town and I have poured gallons of Lysol down the air intake during recic, open vent, etc, Smells like a mix of eggs, oil, and funk.
Dealership says it is not the catalytic converters as they "check out fine" Nissan dealership says it's bad gas, which is unlikely as when I drive away from home and I use other gas, it still smells.so what is it? What is it?
View 7 Replies
Last fall I had several oil leaks on my car repaired as well as replacing the fuel pump and alternator. I also had some welding done on the tailpipe. Once the weather turned colder and I started using the heater, I noticed what I think is a oil-type odor inside the car after a few minutes or more of driving. I roll the windows down to clear out the odor and after that there is no more odor, until one of the next times I drive my car again.
It doesn't smell like exhaust fumes. I have had the exhaust system checked out by a garage who specializes in exhaust systems and they couldn't find any problems with the exhaust system. This problem doesn't happen every time I drive, but almost every time. What might be going on? I haven't noticed any oil drippings on the floor of my garage.
View 2 Replies
After driving for about 15 minutes the car starts to lurch. regardless of the speed. it gets worse if and when i accelerate. If i rev up the engine, it feels like a lose in power and also like something in the engine is skipping. I changed fuel filter under the hood and the strainer on the fuel pump (not the fuel pump) thinking they might have been clogged up and the engine wasn't getting enough fuel.
View 2 Replies
