Nissan - Altima :: Rattling Noise Near Belt When Have The AC On Or When Turn Steering Wheel
Sep 6, 2016
I drive a 1999 Nissan Altima GXE and when i turn the a/c on or turn my steering wheel the car makes a rattling noise towards the belt. I have replaced the belt and i check all the electrical components that are runned on that belt. But i cant figure it out. I think its something to do with my pulley system because my power steering/ac are runned on the same belt along with my alternator and other components. What to check.
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This summer I replaced the inner and outer tie rod ends on a 97 Nissan Altima, had a bent wheel replaced, and had an alignment done. Everything worked smoothly for the last 5,000 or so miles. I had my tires rotated and balanced recently which created a new problem, a shaky steering wheel most noticeable at slow speeds. I've had a similar problem before and had it fixed by balancing the tires. I took it back in to have them rebalanced, thinking they may have forgotten to do it the first time. They rebalanced them and the problem has not changed at all.
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My '06 Nissan Altima suddenly started making a very loud rattling noise as soon as I put it into drive and start moving at low speeds. The noise does not go away at high speeds. It sounds like I am dragging the entire undercarriage. When breaking it grinds very loudly. All of this is sudden. Only other issue I had recently was that the motor wouldn't catch when I tried it Saturday, but it finally did after giving it a good amount of fuel. Drove it 300 miles yesterday without a problem. Woke up to a car that sounds an awful lot like a plane.
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I've got this 02 Nissan Altima 126,000 miles. I did a front brake job on my self, new rotors and ceramic pads. Immediately after the brake job, I started hearing this horrible grinding noise when weight is shifted to the driver side. It happens when I take apply the brakes or make a right turn. When making a right turn I don't need to apply brakes to hear it. I can sometimes hear it faintly when driving normally.
I took it to my mechanic. He first inspected my brake job, disassembled the rotors and pads, applied brake grease, and reassembled everything. The problem continued. He lifted the car, and had me get in, put it in gear, accelerate, then applied brake, no noise. There is no sign of anything rubbing or grinding in the wheel assembly.
After inspecting the tie rods ends, he replaced the inner and outer on both sides. No Luck. He then replace the ceramic brake pads with regular pads which has reduced the noise but it is still there. I asked around and two other mechanics have suggested the wheel bearings, my mechanic believes this is unlikely.
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Ok, it is a brand new car(Nissan)and when on the highway and turning(road curving right) the steering wheel is very tight/tough/resists to turn right and it pushes back to the left. When turning left it is nice and easy. What is crazy is this happened to my fiancee's last lease and(after 4 service visits) they rotated the tires or and it went away but the only bad thing was when it was time to rotate the tires it came back. The car was a different model Nissan. My question is was could make a BRAND NEW car do this? We checked tire pressure and it is fine and I also had two other family members drive it and they felt it right away.
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I have a Nissan '04 Altima. Last winter, in temps near zero, my power steering seemed to go out. It worked fine when it got a little warmer. Figured maybe a stuck valve or something on the pump. Works fine sometimes and sometimes it doesn't. Asked my mechanic to check this out when I went in for my last oil change. Not sure they checked anything (it was working when I brought it in) they recommended a fluid flush. Did the fluid flush, it continued to work for a few days, then stopped working again. What could cause this so I can have them check specific components. And so I don't spend money on things that I don't need to.
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I own a 2003 Nissan Altima and I am having trouble switching off my radio since a couple of months. All the other features work except for the power button. As a result, the radio is always on.
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I have an '08 Nissan Altima. Recently, the A/C automatically kicks on when I push the start button. And, the blower switches from the floor to the chest position. This started about the time I put a new battery in the car.
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I went to a big box store to have new tires put on the rear of my 2002 Nissan Altima. They told me I had a stud broken from the inside of the wheel. The lug nut is still attached, and they can't get the wheel off. Both the stud and the nut turn freely within the socket. Is there any way to get this off without having to pay the $70 a tire place will charge me to fix it? I don't know how long its been like this. I currently have three new tires and one old.
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I had new tires put on my 2011 Altima around 35,000 miles. I started noticing a hum, so I checked the mechanic notes and they said I had a bent right rear rim. So, I had them replace it immediately. The hum (which only happens specifically at 40mph and at 75 mph) remained so I attributed it to new tires and breaking in.
I took my car to a shop around 45k miles for a check engine light, which ended up being an ECM issue that required a dealer service. I also had him check the tires as the hum was still there. He just rotated the tires and sent me on my way. This is when the steering column started shaking, so I had the dealer check it out and they told me I had a bent rim! Go figure, I've been driving on this thing for about 10k miles.
So, I ordered a new rim and had a local tire place put it on and they showed me the bent rim. Now I thought this would solve things but I was wrong . I still fee the vibration in the steering column at high speeds and the annoying wah hum is still there.
I'm a little lost as to what the problem could be so I'm looking for some insight? Should I start with having the other 3 tires balanced? Could it be that the bent rim caused uneven wearing on my tires over the 10k miles and it may take time to even out? There's no noticeable wear on the tires to my seeing but I could be wrong. These tires are 50k mile tires. Could the bent rim have caused other unseen damage? Keep in mind the wheel they replaced is now on the rear.
I know another cause of shaking could be the rotors but as far as I know they're in good shape and breaking is still smooth. so if they were the issue causing vibration at high speeds I would surely feel it in the breaks.
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I THINK my wheel bearings are going on my 2003 Nissan Altima. It has about 95k miles on it and it has been making what I would call a mid-toned rumble or a low pitched rattle (imagine shaking a metal box full of rocks). The noise is coming from the front driver's side. It's more subdued when driving in really wet weather. I am more aware of it when I drive at slower speeds. It doesn't seem to change when I turn the wheel either way, and it definitely gets more pronounced when I go over a bump or a rough patch. I recently had my front rotors and pads replaced, naiively hoped that might fix it - wishful thinking - and stupidly forgot to ask my mechanic about it then. I need to call to schedule a repair, but I would like to be prepared and to know if anything else might make this noise. (and I don't want to jack it up and shake the wheel or anything).Approximately how much does it cost to have this fixed?
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My 2003 Nissan Altima recently started giving me trouble where I will drive for at least 20 minutes, stop to run an errand, come back, and the engine won't turn over. The first time this happened my check engine light came on. I brought it into the shop and had the cam sensors replaced. I'm still having the same problem. The engine cranks and the battery checked out okay. Car has 93,000 miles on it. I can usually get it to start after 5-10 minutes by cranking and pushing the gas to the floor. Could this be a fuel issue?
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I have a 1995 nissan altima gxe and me rear lights won't turn off even after I put the ignition switch in the off position.
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It's Nissan Altima 97. My friend need to take her road test so I let her borrow my car this weekend to do some road practice (I was in the car with her). Besides all the heavy braking, and sudden acceleration. She did alright. Because she is from VT, so she was practicing this VT Turn Around (I have never heard of it before today). She turn the wheel all the way to the right and back up.
I heard a small popping noise, and didn't pay too much attention to it at that moment. However, After she finish that VT Turn Around, we started to driving down the hill, and heard this metal-on-metal noise. It lasted for 10 ft, then went away. The noise is coming from my driver side front wheel. When I got off the car, I found the center of the wheel cover pop off.
(see this link for the pictures) [URL] .......
Now here are my questions. What just happened? and do I need to get it look at immediately, or can I wait until the next oil change?
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Question: after replacing rear shocks on 2009 Altima, does in need a rear wheel alignment? After shocks were replaced on my Altima (without wheel alignment), I drove about 4500 miles. After that the tires were rotated and the back tires installed in front. I immediately noticed loud road noise, mechanic says it is uneven tread wear and I think - this is too much of a coincidence. So should they have done the alignment when they replaced the rear shock absorbers or not?
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My 2005 Nissan Altima has been fairly reliable up until the past two years, as it seems several aspects of the cars performance are starting to decline rapidly. I recently changed a headlight bulb, and upon reconnecting the battery, the engine refused to turn over and catch when I turned the ignition. After several tries, the car started and I noticed the check engine light has come on. I took it to AutoZone to get a read out, and the told me that I got two error codes: one for crankshaft position sensor and one for engine speed sensor. It's been a while since I got the readout, and I lost the paper with that I wrote the codes on, but I think the codes may have been P0335 for the crankshaft position sensor and P0725 for the engine speed sensor.
I changed the crankshaft position sensor and camshaft position sensors on my car, and the problem changed from a major problem to a moderate problem. The car performance now:
1) The check engine light is still on
2) When starting my car, I turn the ignition to connect the battery, wait a few seconds, turn to start the engine, and it takes about 3 turnover attempts before the engine catches and the car starts (inserting the key and turning it straight over to try and turn on the car often results in turnover attempts with no start).
3) When driving, the car now shifts hard at times and seems to be changing gears at higher RPMs than expected.
4) When going up a steep incline, as I press on the gas, the car RPMs go up but the car does not accelerate like it used to. It eventually shifts very hard into the lower gear and then I can accelerate up the incline at a much higher RPM rate than expected
I was reading wear these issues may be caused by a clogged fuel system, but I wanted to check with some of you guys to see what you think it may be before I go trying a fix on anything.
In terms of car care, I would say I'm fairly responsible. I get the oil changed regularly, and have always gotten scheduled maintenance taken care of as well as any maintenance at the recommendations of the mechanics I trust.
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I am the owner of a 2013 Pathfinder and a 2013 Altima. If I have both sets of FOB keys on me when I press the start button on my Altima the car goes into battery mode. Will not completely turn on or won't turn off. The only way to shut the car down is disconnect the battery, wait 20 minutes, and hope the car is completely shut down. Then try again and hope the car turns on.
I was told having both FOB keys on me causes interference and only carry the key I need. Besides that being absurd and can't do that because I drive my Altima in the morning and the Pathfinder at night to pick the kids up because the car seats are in there. So what I have been doing to avoid this problem is taking the Pathfinder FOB and putting in homemade aluminum foil bag so the car can't read that key. Nissan seems to think this isn't a problem.
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I just bought my brand new 2015 Hyundai Sonata 2.4L SE 3 weeks ago and have put 4000kms on it so far and from last week I am getting a rattling noise from just behind my steering wheel while going over washboard surfaces every time. Feels like something plasticy is loose around the upper steering column which rattles every time I go over a washboard surface. My university campus has a lot of rumble strips to slow cars down and that is where I noticed this noise very clearly.
I have taken my car to the local dealer and the mechanic there have acknowledged the problem after comparing the noise with a new car there. He tightened some bolts around the lower steering rack apparently but the problem is still there. He says to bring the car in after the problems gets significantly worse because it is still not severe enough for him to diagnose it and find what is causing it. I do not know much severe I need to the let the problem get before they do something about it. The dealership still has the ticket open for me; I will probably try to visit them next week again.
This thread more or less describes the problem I am having : Steering wheel noise over bump .....
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I've noticed a creaking sound coming from the left front wheel when I go over a couple of particularly large speed bumps. I have had a lot of problems with the suspension in this car, and have replaced the front struts, the front right control arm, and the sway bar links and bushings. My best guess is that this noise is coming from the front left control arm, as it has not been replaced, although my current mechanic says that the front left control arm is fine. Also, it has been under 10 F here the past few days, so this could also just be a result of the cold weather.
Video of the noise: [URL] ....
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When I am at a complete stop and I lift up on the brakes I hear a loud noise from my car, and when I come to a complete stop it makes that same loud noise. It does not happen when the car is in motion, only when the car is coming to a complete stop and or about to take off. Watch this video I made to see what I am talking about. No shop has yet to figure this problem out.
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My son owns a 2008 Nissan Altima with about 110,000 miles. The engine has a ticking noise that is louder and faster when the car accelerates. It is worse when the car is cold. Once it warms up, the noise will get less and even goes away. Valves? Doesn't seem to be tire related and we recently had the belts checked and replaced when needed.
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