Nissan - Altima :: 2013 - Stuck In Battery Mode / Will Not Completely Turn On Or Off
Mar 17, 2014
I am the owner of a 2013 Pathfinder and a 2013 Altima. If I have both sets of FOB keys on me when I press the start button on my Altima the car goes into battery mode. Will not completely turn on or won't turn off. The only way to shut the car down is disconnect the battery, wait 20 minutes, and hope the car is completely shut down. Then try again and hope the car turns on.
I was told having both FOB keys on me causes interference and only carry the key I need. Besides that being absurd and can't do that because I drive my Altima in the morning and the Pathfinder at night to pick the kids up because the car seats are in there. So what I have been doing to avoid this problem is taking the Pathfinder FOB and putting in homemade aluminum foil bag so the car can't read that key. Nissan seems to think this isn't a problem.
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When I am at a complete stop and I lift up on the brakes I hear a loud noise from my car, and when I come to a complete stop it makes that same loud noise. It does not happen when the car is in motion, only when the car is coming to a complete stop and or about to take off. Watch this video I made to see what I am talking about. No shop has yet to figure this problem out.
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I bought a new battery when my car would not start, but that was not the problem. There is no code, just sometimes the car won't start. I am pretty sure it does not make a clicking noise, and if I keep trying to turn it over, eventually it starts.
This happens maybe one day a week. It might click once each but I will now pay closer attention. It sometimes comes on after a few tries and sometimes at the most 10 tries. It has been doing this for about 2 months max.
My question is could this be anything but the starter and can I tell by putting it in neutral or doing anything else without having to take the car somewhere or without taking it apart? I already bought a starter.
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I own a 2003 Nissan Altima and I am having trouble switching off my radio since a couple of months. All the other features work except for the power button. As a result, the radio is always on.
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I have an '08 Nissan Altima. Recently, the A/C automatically kicks on when I push the start button. And, the blower switches from the floor to the chest position. This started about the time I put a new battery in the car.
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When the temp drops below 40 degrees I get growling/vibration. When I took it to the dealer the service supervisor test drove it. He then checked with one of the mechanics who said they all sound like that. I called Nissan. They told me I had to resolve the issue with the dealer (who is now out of business).
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My 2003 Nissan Altima recently started giving me trouble where I will drive for at least 20 minutes, stop to run an errand, come back, and the engine won't turn over. The first time this happened my check engine light came on. I brought it into the shop and had the cam sensors replaced. I'm still having the same problem. The engine cranks and the battery checked out okay. Car has 93,000 miles on it. I can usually get it to start after 5-10 minutes by cranking and pushing the gas to the floor. Could this be a fuel issue?
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I have a 1995 nissan altima gxe and me rear lights won't turn off even after I put the ignition switch in the off position.
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we have a 2013 Nissan Sentra which is primarily used by my husband for his 5-minute commute to work. We purchased it about 4 months ago from a used car place that we've used before; our whole family uses this place, and we've all been pretty happy with our purchases.
After we bought it, we had no problems. But a few weeks ago, shortly after daylight savings, my husband was fiddling with the clock on his ride home (I know, I know, I duly reprimanded him for doing that while driving!) but all of a sudden, the car turned OFF completely, as though he had turned the ignition off. The ignition was still on; he turned it off, then turned it back on again, and it worked again. We haven't had any issues since, but... this is greatly concerning to me!
My husband thinks it was just a fluke with the clock, but I'm thinking this is a MAJOR deal! IS it a major deal, and could it really have something to do with the CLOCK, or was that just an odd coincidence?
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My 2005 Nissan Altima has been fairly reliable up until the past two years, as it seems several aspects of the cars performance are starting to decline rapidly. I recently changed a headlight bulb, and upon reconnecting the battery, the engine refused to turn over and catch when I turned the ignition. After several tries, the car started and I noticed the check engine light has come on. I took it to AutoZone to get a read out, and the told me that I got two error codes: one for crankshaft position sensor and one for engine speed sensor. It's been a while since I got the readout, and I lost the paper with that I wrote the codes on, but I think the codes may have been P0335 for the crankshaft position sensor and P0725 for the engine speed sensor.
I changed the crankshaft position sensor and camshaft position sensors on my car, and the problem changed from a major problem to a moderate problem. The car performance now:
1) The check engine light is still on
2) When starting my car, I turn the ignition to connect the battery, wait a few seconds, turn to start the engine, and it takes about 3 turnover attempts before the engine catches and the car starts (inserting the key and turning it straight over to try and turn on the car often results in turnover attempts with no start).
3) When driving, the car now shifts hard at times and seems to be changing gears at higher RPMs than expected.
4) When going up a steep incline, as I press on the gas, the car RPMs go up but the car does not accelerate like it used to. It eventually shifts very hard into the lower gear and then I can accelerate up the incline at a much higher RPM rate than expected
I was reading wear these issues may be caused by a clogged fuel system, but I wanted to check with some of you guys to see what you think it may be before I go trying a fix on anything.
In terms of car care, I would say I'm fairly responsible. I get the oil changed regularly, and have always gotten scheduled maintenance taken care of as well as any maintenance at the recommendations of the mechanics I trust.
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I drive a 1999 Nissan Altima GXE and when i turn the a/c on or turn my steering wheel the car makes a rattling noise towards the belt. I have replaced the belt and i check all the electrical components that are runned on that belt. But i cant figure it out. I think its something to do with my pulley system because my power steering/ac are runned on the same belt along with my alternator and other components. What to check.
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A few months ago, my '00 Sentra developed a rough idle but I ignored it because it wasn't too bad, until recently at least. It had been getting progressively worse so I went out and bought some CRC MAF cleaner, which solved the rough idle altogether for about a day. After doing some errands, I started the car but it was now stuck in limp home mode, not matter how much gas I gave it, she wouldn't top 20 MPH and 2.5k revs.
I bought a new MAF, and that made the problem worse: in any drive gears or reverse, when given any gas, the engine would stall and die but when in neutral, I can rev it as high as I want to. I reset the computer and cleaned the new sensor to no avail. After re-installing the old sensor (which was visibly broken, it was missing an entire wire assembly), it will run poorly but will now drive with some quirks, and I don't trust it further than around the block.
My question is: with the new sensor, do I need an ECU reprogram, did I receive a bad sensor, or is there a compound problem? (I've heard with similar issues: bad alternator, bad TPS, bad IAC module, dirty IAC or TPS, clogged fuel filter, bad fuel pump, dirty air filter, among others.)
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Every once and awhile when I take off in the c the car drains the battery like it gets stuck in ev mode. The ev light will be off and the ice will be running but from a dead stop take off, the instant Mpg will read between 50 and 75 Mpg till it drains the battery gauge .
After the drain it works normal charges the drained battery and might not happen again for a couple of hours or a month there is no time period it happens.
Does this sound like a normal hybrid behavior? That's what I thought at first but because of the inconsistency of the behavior.
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So the blue light indicating eco mode on the dash has become permanent despite turning to sport, or normal mode. Bought it used a few months ago but could have sworn it would turn red for sport when I first brought it home. Have tried just about everything short of unplugging the battery. I can't imagine the red light would be burnt out already and the blue light should not stay on when I change to normal mode either. Maybe my car is trying to tell me to always stay in eco...since I did come from a corolla
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I have noticed a mid-pitched humming noise in my '02. I first noticed it about a week after getting four new tires put on it. It is speed dependent, and is most noticeable at about 35 mph.
Somehow I have gotten it in my head that the car might be stuck in "battery charge" mode. I can't tell easily because my car has a permanent power steering problem so I don't have the charge/power car diagram on my dash. I can still feel a difference when I shift into "B" when going downhill.
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I bought a brand new 2013 elantra last year and currently has 20,000 miles on it. I had custom halos installed as my lights that turn on automatically when the car is on and is on continuously. I also have hids installed into the headlights.
Last week my battery sign came on when I turned the car on and after driving about 20 minutes the car completely stopped and did not turn on. Took it to the dealership and they first denied me warranty saying because of all the aftermarket stuff we cant touch this car for free. So I paid for the diagnostic which was $102 and after they told me that your alternator fried but they are not sure why. Would it be because of the halos and hids??
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How I can get into maintenance mode on a 2013 level 4 ?
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I sat in my relatively new (2009) car with the accessories on (fan only) for 20 minutes, now it is clicking and won't turn over. Do i just need a jump? will my battery recover after running?
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i have a 2003 nissan altima with 99288 miles on it. i just got it changed yesterday and one of the tech's showed me and said there was condensation on the oil cap and the oil was dark. he recommened an oil system cleaner. is this accurate or is there something more i should worry about? he also said i was 1/2 qt low. last time i got my oil changed at the same place he said my oil was 2qts low and recommened a semi sythenic blend to flush things out, which i did do. i usually get my oil changed about every 4000 miles or so, i try for 3000 but not too successful. i also drive 1/2 hr to and from work every day at a min.
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As I was driving home, I came to a stop. When I depressed the accelerator to move, nothing happened. No gas was getting to the accelerator, the car wouldn't move, but the engine was still running. So I shifted the car in park and back to drive and I began moving. This happened on several occasions.
What is the problem? The gas filter? The gas pump? The fuel injectors or The transmission?
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So, my family owns a 2006 Nissan Altima, and it's developed a strange problem recently. It would start fine when cold, but then if I park it and come back 20 minutes later, it won't start again. Apparently this is a thing that happens with Altimas. Now for a while, it was starting after two or three tries, but now it just simply isn't turning over. When I watch it under the hood, it shudders some, and then there's a puff of warm air/exhaust, i don't know. I've read it might be the cam shaft sensor, but after replacing that the problem hasn't gone away, and a few people have said it might be the fuel pump, but I replaced that as well and it's still not starting up. I'm thinking i might try to replace the crankshaft sensor next but I thought I would ask here for advice and opinions just in case. This isnt the first time this has happened with this car, apparently - this happened once before, and the camshaft sensor being replaced fixed it.
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