Nissan - Altima :: 2010 - Slight Miss At 30 To 45 Mph Upon Acceleration
Dec 2, 2012
I purchased a 2010 2.5 Altima with 9K miles in 2011. After @ four months I noticed a slight miss at 30-45 mph upon acceleration. I told the dealership and they said it wasn't throwing a code. After two more visits I again complained about the miss. At this time the service person handed me a "Customer Satisfaction Bulletin" that explained that cars (Altimas, 2009- 2011 with my trans. and engine experience this "SURGE" as they called it AND that it is NORMAL.There is no way in hell that a auto maker would produce a car that does what my car does and consider it NORMAL. Buy the way, there is a "FIX" that was done but didn't work, that involved changing motor mounts and computer programming.
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As I was driving home, I came to a stop. When I depressed the accelerator to move, nothing happened. No gas was getting to the accelerator, the car wouldn't move, but the engine was still running. So I shifted the car in park and back to drive and I began moving. This happened on several occasions.
What is the problem? The gas filter? The gas pump? The fuel injectors or The transmission?
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Woke up to go to work and it started up with a rough idle, got a block down the road and it had a slight miss under acceleration. Guessing its a bad coil, I've got a spare featured I'd play I I mini miny moe when I get home unless.
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We bought a used 2001 Nissan Altima. It has 123,000 miles on it. It had a few minor issues, but recently it has started lurching when we go over 35 miles an hour and it will not accelerate.
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My Nissan Altima is normally fine but after about 40 minutes to an hour of driving even in cool temperatures the car stops wanting to accelerate much and the RPM needle will jump from 1-2k to 5k almost instantly when applying more gas. I can be at 5k RPMs and barely climb 1 to 2 mph every few seconds in my car. This issue will persist till I turn the car off for a short while. Once The car has cooled down and been idle for a bit the car works fine again for 40 to 60 minutes. I also don't want to take it in because I doubt they'll get the problem to reproduce unless they drive it for up to an hour.
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I posted a while back about my 04 5.4 having an issue at idle. I did all the normal things like replace coil, spark plug, etc etc. No change to the issue. It still acts as though it's misfiring on a cylinder and I get codes P0306 and P0316. Finally took it to ford and had a diagnostic check ran. Everything on the top end was in working order. The tech even put a known working coil on 6 and nothing changed. I was told that it's either an intake or valve issue on that cylinder. But no definite answer to problem.
Fast forward to yesterday. I got a wild hair at lunch and went out and started truck. Pulled injector plug off of 6. No change to the way it was running. I did the same for 5, 7, 8, 1, and 2. All of which made a big difference in the way it ran. It was obviously misfiring with no fuel to cylinder. This gave me the idea to swap 5 and 6 when I got home to see if the issue followed the injector from 6. I did NOT. I pulled the plug on 5 and got the obvious change in the way it ran. So there is definitely something going on at cylinder 6 that I cannot figure out.
PCM, bad intake, bad valve? I'm not rich so a trip to ford for repair is gonna have to wait. Truck seems to run fine when driving except for slight hesitation during acceleration.
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2003 F150 5.4 72852 miles
I have a Rough Idle & sometimes a hesitation or stumble on acceleration. I cleaned the MAF & IAC motor & Air & Fuel Filters are new. I got a 20890 scanner & ran test 6 53 as suggested in many posts by BlueGrass. Here are My results & what They Convert to.
1 00F5 .3675
2 0051 .1215
3 0000
4 0000
5 00A3 .2445
6 0000
7 0000
8 0000
I'm guessing the cop's are ok & probably need plugs? I was hoping to just swap a coil. Too cold to do plugs & truck won't fit in my garage.
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I drive a 2010 Nissan Altima and my front tires have been making a kind of roaring sound. More of a "woo-woo-woo-woo" sound. It doesn't get louder the faster I go, but it does make the sound faster when I pick up speed. I used a jack to lift all 4 tires off the ground and shake the wheels, but there was no slack or sound so that would rule out the wheel bearings right? The car doesn't shake or vibrate either and when I let go of the steering wheel, the car stays straight. That would also rule out wheel balance and alignment right?
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I have a 2010 with about 166k miles. I am getting a slight hesitation at slight acceleration or constant speed. It does not matter if it's on highway or freeway speeds. Now I am not sure if this in junction with me changing the PCV valve, cleaning the EGR pipe, or cleaning the TB for carbon recently. It started happening a week after it though.
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When it's cold and the car heats up, you can hear the hood sheetmetal make an 'oil-can' buckle sound. Happens frequently while running in cold weather. It's not the hood itself, but perhaps the metal underneath. It's noticeably loud.
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2005 Escape 3.0 with 160k miles. Slight miss under cruise, goes away under slight throttle. No service history known about vehicle. Best to replace spark plugs and coils with Motorcraft parts? And the intake gaskets too? Suggestions for correct plugs?
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My 2010 Prius with 140000km has developed a vibration noticeable anywhere from 50-80 km/hr when in slight acceleration (just over 1/2 on the green bars) with the ICE running. Dropping the throttle or hard acceleration makes it disappear completely - which tells me it's driveline related. It feels like its coming from the passenger side, particularly rear, but it's definitely getting worse and I can now feel it in the driver's door panel so it's becoming a major concern.
My first thought (due to the location) was a bad muffler but it's not any louder. I'm starting to worry it may be a transaxle bearing. I can't see it being a cv joint as there's no noises when cornering and everything underneath looked OK at a recent oil change. I love this car (what Prius owner doesn't?) and I sure can't afford to replace it. It's been babied since day one.
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My second gen prius has slight miss/knock at startup. Done 35000 km. Doing around 19Km/Ltr. No other problem.
Any need for tuning, plug checking, needed at this stage?
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i have a 2003 nissan altima with 99288 miles on it. i just got it changed yesterday and one of the tech's showed me and said there was condensation on the oil cap and the oil was dark. he recommened an oil system cleaner. is this accurate or is there something more i should worry about? he also said i was 1/2 qt low. last time i got my oil changed at the same place he said my oil was 2qts low and recommened a semi sythenic blend to flush things out, which i did do. i usually get my oil changed about every 4000 miles or so, i try for 3000 but not too successful. i also drive 1/2 hr to and from work every day at a min.
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I have a 2013 F150 4x4 with a 6.2 and it has a slight miss at idle. It's done this since new and over the 20kms it has now I've been given the round around on it from 2 different dealers. I'm told there is no code so they can't do anything. I'm thinking maybe a coil? Or perhaps injector?
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Truck has a slight miss at 65k when in 6th at low rpm and also when sitting still. Wanting to replace the spark plugs. The truck has Motorcraft CYPS 12Y in it which shows up as SP519. No one carries those anymore. What's the next best thing?
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I have a 2001 Excursion with the V-10. Two weeks ago, the upper nipple on the radiator cracked and I overheated. Was towed home and replaced the radiator with a quality aftermarket one. I then drove to the whiz wash and cleaned the antifreeze off of the engine.
Immediately I noticed a slight "miss" when cold, particularly when backing out of my driveway. I have no lights on the dash and it is throwing no codes. The miss gets much better (almost gone) when the truck is warmed up.
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So, my family owns a 2006 Nissan Altima, and it's developed a strange problem recently. It would start fine when cold, but then if I park it and come back 20 minutes later, it won't start again. Apparently this is a thing that happens with Altimas. Now for a while, it was starting after two or three tries, but now it just simply isn't turning over. When I watch it under the hood, it shudders some, and then there's a puff of warm air/exhaust, i don't know. I've read it might be the cam shaft sensor, but after replacing that the problem hasn't gone away, and a few people have said it might be the fuel pump, but I replaced that as well and it's still not starting up. I'm thinking i might try to replace the crankshaft sensor next but I thought I would ask here for advice and opinions just in case. This isnt the first time this has happened with this car, apparently - this happened once before, and the camshaft sensor being replaced fixed it.
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I have a1997 Nissan Altima 140k miles with the manual transmission. I have a fuel problem that I can't seem to solve. every 1-2 days and only intermittently and unpredictably my car starts to idle up and down and occasionally if I don't give it enough gas they car may stall but the stalls only happen when I am not pressing the accelerator, meaning only at resting idle. since I am fanatic on washing my engine, I initially though that spark plugs were dirty or not working, I changed the spark plugs the distributor cap and the wires but the symptom continues. then I check the resistance of all the four fuel injectors and all of them read at around 12.8 ohms. I have also treated the fuel system twice with injector cleaner, the kind that you find at a gas station but still, the problem persists.
if it is not too much trouble I have another smaller questions. if the car sits overnight or for a couple days, the shift is really easy but as the car warms up the shifting becomes harder. could the transmission fluid need to drained and replaced?
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on 1997 Nissan pickup 2.4-liter engine do you have to take off the valve cover to clean out EGR ports.
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2003 Nissan Altima 2.5 SL automatic - starts fine when the engine is cold but won't when the engine is hot. It acts flooded. I've changed the camshaft and crankshaft sensors, spark plugs, one spark plug coil, radiator, valve cover and the coolant temperature sensor. The car will turn over but will not start - sometimes it will after 5-10 minutes of trying.
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