My son owns a 2008 Nissan Altima with about 110,000 miles. The engine has a ticking noise that is louder and faster when the car accelerates. It is worse when the car is cold. Once it warms up, the noise will get less and even goes away. Valves? Doesn't seem to be tire related and we recently had the belts checked and replaced when needed.
View 3 RepliesMy Nissan Altima is normally fine but after about 40 minutes to an hour of driving even in cool temperatures the car stops wanting to accelerate much and the RPM needle will jump from 1-2k to 5k almost instantly when applying more gas. I can be at 5k RPMs and barely climb 1 to 2 mph every few seconds in my car. This issue will persist till I turn the car off for a short while. Once The car has cooled down and been idle for a bit the car works fine again for 40 to 60 minutes. I also don't want to take it in because I doubt they'll get the problem to reproduce unless they drive it for up to an hour.
View 10 RepliesMy '06 Nissan Altima suddenly started making a very loud rattling noise as soon as I put it into drive and start moving at low speeds. The noise does not go away at high speeds. It sounds like I am dragging the entire undercarriage. When breaking it grinds very loudly. All of this is sudden. Only other issue I had recently was that the motor wouldn't catch when I tried it Saturday, but it finally did after giving it a good amount of fuel. Drove it 300 miles yesterday without a problem. Woke up to a car that sounds an awful lot like a plane.
View 9 RepliesI have an 08 camry v6 with 31K. I noticed when I got off the highway after driving for about a 1/2 hour the engine had a loud vibrating/ticking noise when I stepped on the gas. This morning when the car was cold and I drove it locally it was fine, i also checked the oil and it's clean and full. Not sure what's going on. Also this only happened after I had the whole car painted not sure if it's related since I dont know if they take parts off to paint a whole car.
View 2 RepliesMy wife's 2007 Nissan Altima recently started to exhibit a strange symptom. For no apparent reason, the gas pedal suddenly had no effect. The engine remains running but adding gas, even stomping the pedal to the floorboard has no effect. The RPMs remain at idle and the vehicle comes slowly to a complete stop, which is horrifying on a traffic-choked highway. My wife figured out that, if she turns the car off, then starts it again, the car miraculously seems to function properly again. We have taken the car to the Nissan dealership where they first replaced the throttle chamber assembly.
This had no effect and the second visit; they replaced the ACC/PEDAL (not sure what that is exactly. Again, no effect. The third time, they replaced the throttle position sensor and the engine control module at no cost, certainly as a result of our visible and verbal frustration. Guess what? Same problem yesterday.. Out of exasperation, I performed the simplest of Google searches (Nissan Altima won’t accelerate) and I found link after link to sites and blogs about this very issue. It seems that the cvt transmission has something to do with it. How should I handle this situation?
I have a 2008 Altima coupe SE V6 with a manual transmission and approximately 45,000 miles. Recently, I have been having an issue with cruise control when going uphill. It started that I could not accelerate using the cruise control button going uphill without the cruise control cancelling. If I hit the "resume" button, the cruise control would try and accelerate again and cancel out again. Since I took it in earlier this week, the cruise control has been cancelling whenever going up even a relatively modest hill whether I'm accelerating or not, so, whatever the issue is, it appears to be getting worse.
Assuming it was a problem with the cruise control itself (which would presumably be covered under warranty) I took the car to a Nissan dealer. They said that the clutch was wearing out and so the gear was slipping (or something) when the cruise control was trying to accelerate, causing the cruise control to cancel.
I was pretty shocked given that the car only has 45,000 miles on it and I don't grind the gears or ride the clutch. I spend a good bit of time in D.C. area traffic, but even considering that, 45,000 miles?? I did buy the car used, so it's possible that the previous owner did a number on the car in the first 10,000 miles or so, but it still seemed unlikely. I haven't noticed any other symptoms of the clutch dying except that recently, when I accelerate in 1st gear and am around the engagement point, occasionally there is sort of a metal-on-metal sound; almost like when breaks need new pads or something, but not as high pitched or loud.
Any thoughts on: a) if the issue is really the clutch, and b) if so, why it would cost so much to replace?
My right front passenger tire keeps making a loud squealing noise. I've had the brakes and pads changed several times and it keeps making the same noise. I've taken it to the dealer but when they drive it, of course it doesn't make the noise. They checked it and everything seems fine. I took it to another mechanic and they heard the noise as well but can't find any problems. They greased all the gears in the wheel area and it stopped making the noise for a couple of weeks, but then starts right back up again. The car drives perfectly other than that. I'm going to see if I can attach a video file so you can hear the noise. I'm thinking it could be the bearings but everyone that looks at it says they're fine. The noise in the video is much more pronounced now and is a constant sharp squeal.
View 1 RepliesTwo days ago I started to hear a strange engine ticking noise. This is not the normal sound of the injectors pushing fuel into the engine, i know what that sounds like. This is far louder. And when I start to accelerate, the ticking becomes faster. When I cruise at a steady speed, the engine starts to sputter until I press on the gas or brake.x I took it to my local dealer and they ran codes and did an oil change. The guy told me to drive the car around for a bit and the noise will disappear. They also told me that if it did not disappear then I am basically screwed because it could mean that "my valves collided with my pistons due to over exceeded engine speeds" I will post a picture of the code and a video of the sound. [URL] ....
View 13 RepliesI have a 2008 Ford F150 that ticks loudly at hot idle. Took it to the dealer and hear is what the service manager has said so far:
"So far we checked codes, all was ok. tested oil pressure and found it met the spec of 15 PSI, removed valve covers. Found the CVT solonoids are the newer style. Inspected the camshafts, cam phasers, rocker arms, cam chains. All check ok at this time. Not finding any true "root of concern" I'm trying to get approval for engine replacement in hopes that replacement is quieter. Approval is difficult without any true failure...still working on it though."
If this is not the cam phasers, what else could it possibly be?
Here is my engine noise: [URL] .....
Just recently purchased a 2013 Toyota Corolla LE. It has just under 500 miles as of today, and I was planning on changing the oil within the next week.
However, on my way home I noticed an almost ticking noise coming from the engine bay whenever I would accelerate. There wasn't a loss of power, but with the radio off and air off as well you could clearly hear it.
My cousin owns since brand new, a 2008 Nissan Altima 2.5, automatic, 61k miles (90% of that highway)-immaculate condition. No longer under factory warranty.
Driving to the airport a few days back the car starts-every 2 minutes or so- bucking and almost stalling, although it never did stall. He flies off and upon returning 5 days later, while driving back home the car starts acting up again. The symptoms are more severe now and getting progressively worse: there is loss of motive power and the max speed is 15-20 mph. He takes it straight to the local Nissan dealer on the way home. Nissan Dealer takes it in for diagnosys on the spot: leaking radiator internally, allowing coolant in the transmission.
I have an '08 Nissan Altima. Recently, the A/C automatically kicks on when I push the start button. And, the blower switches from the floor to the chest position. This started about the time I put a new battery in the car.
View 1 RepliesMy 08 altima cruise control comes on and the set light keeps blinking the service book says take it to my dealer is there anything I can do to fix it myself could it be a air leak or something?
View 1 RepliesI own a Nissan Altima 2008 2 door coupe and a light that looks sort of like a clock with ticks underneath has lit up in my dashboard on my left hand side. It's NOT tire pressure nor can I find what it means in the manual book.
View 13 RepliesI recently bought a 2006 Hyundai Sonata 3.3 V6. Had another issue related to the rear wheel, which I fixed. Today, I changed the oil filter on the car (along with the oil). I have heard this engine noise before, but with the cover off it appears a little louder. It’s basically a ‘ticking’ sound.
The engine uses no oil, and has no other leaks. It has some noise on startup for maybe 1-2 seconds (like a loud lifter or something, but it goes away in less than 2 seconds, and at the same time the oil light goes out). I changed the filter today because I was told that a leaky gasket could result in the Filter not retaining oil between starts, causes some minor knock for a few seconds.
But anyway, this other ticking noise seems to be regular, regardless of condition. I have heard some people say that some engine noise is normal for this engine, but how about this?
Video w/ Noise: [URL] ....
There is a loud ticking noise coming from an undetermined location in the engine compartment (sounds more like behind the motor). It starts on cold-start, lasts approximately a minute or so until the engine heats up. Driveability doesn't seem to be affected, and the engine doesn't have any additional weird symptoms. Some other VW owners have suggested changing the cam belt and tensioner to fix this problem, but the car has only just turned 45K miles and can't imagine that it would fail so quickly.
View 3 RepliesYou know the ticking noise that is normal for our engines? Well, below 25 degrees F, it is the most worst noise ever. It sounds like the valve train is going to explode. Just keep in mind I've driven many cars. The ticking noise shouldn't be outrageously loud.
But my main problem that is worrying me is this WHOMP-WHOMP-WHOMP noise. The higher the RPM the faster the noise. Doesn't matter if the car is moving or not and I know it's coming from the engine. I hope it's not related to the loud ticking. It only happens for approximately 5 minutes. After that, there's no WHOMP sound and the ticking goes back to normal sound levels.
I recently bought a Nissan Altima and noticed that the sunroof area rattles when I go over a bumpy patch of road or a manhole cover. The sound is definitely a rattle and not a squeaking sound. I can replicate the sound by smacking the roof from the inside of the car and it's contained mostly to right above where my head is near the bottom left corner of the sunroof.
When I got the car I removed the wind deflector that's attached to the roof because I really don't like how they look. I also removed the wind deflector arm since the plastic connector to it broke when I removed the deflector. I'm guessing the sun cooked the plastic parts and it just snapped. I doubt the rattle is due to the arm being removed but I added it in just in case. This weekend I removed part of the trim on the inside of the roof and blew compressed air to get debris out but the rattle is still there.
How to get this annoying problem to just go away?
My car is a 2008 Nissan Altima 3.5L. It has an automatic cvt transmission. Here's the scenario: I turn my car on and shift into drive. I'll drive for maybe 10 feet and I will hear this strange sound that can only be described as a dull knocking followed by a dull scraping sound. The dull scraping sound will last for about 5 seconds. The sound appears to originate from behind the gas pedal, and I'm think I can feel the gas pedal vibrating very slightly as it is happening. The only condition that makes this sound happen is when I shift from park or reverse into drive. If I start my car and put it in drive it happens. If I'm at a red light go to park then drive, it happens. If I turn my car on, go in reverse, then drive, it happens. However it doesn't happen if I just stop and don't change the gear selector. It's been happening since I bought the car at 56k miles, I'm at 69k now. I haven't seen any decrease in performance, the car runs like a champ.
View 6 Repliesi recently changed my engine oil and filter from carquest brand to quaker state and about 500 miles later, i started having some issues like, rough idle and loud ticking and bottom engine noise. is that just a coincidence or any problems with this oil? 1.6L D.O.H.C.
View 2 RepliesOh where do I start. 2003 Santa Fe, V6 Auto, FWD.
The engine has been making a loud ticking noise lately, starting right after an oil change it seemed. It actually sounded a lot like a stuck lifter, so I had an engine flush done, but this did not remedy the problem. Popping the hood one day it was particularly noisy, I noticed that it sounded like it was coming from the serpentine belt tensioner (or there abouts).
Anyway, tonight, *something* finally gave. All of a sudden I heard a squealing noise, then smelled burning rubber, and my battery light came on, and I lost my power steering. I figured that the tensioner finally gave out.
I turned off the vehicle to see what I could see. A bit of melted S-belt was it. I restarted it, and the belt was turning fine again, but while it was idling, I noticed that the crank pulley was shifting in and out now and then. When it moved inward, the S-belt shifted in as well, and started to rub on the timing cover, wearing a hole right through it! Have a look at the attached photo, showing the grove worn right through.
So I'm assuming that my tensioner was fine, and it was my crank pulley all a long. I'm figuring that 3 thing will need replacing:
1. Crank Pulley (the source of the problem)
2. Serpentine Belt (since it's probably half melted)
3. Timing Cover (can't see that water getting in there would be good)
Does this sound accurate?