My 08 altima cruise control comes on and the set light keeps blinking the service book says take it to my dealer is there anything I can do to fix it myself could it be a air leak or something?
View 1 RepliesI have a 2008 Altima coupe SE V6 with a manual transmission and approximately 45,000 miles. Recently, I have been having an issue with cruise control when going uphill. It started that I could not accelerate using the cruise control button going uphill without the cruise control cancelling. If I hit the "resume" button, the cruise control would try and accelerate again and cancel out again. Since I took it in earlier this week, the cruise control has been cancelling whenever going up even a relatively modest hill whether I'm accelerating or not, so, whatever the issue is, it appears to be getting worse.
Assuming it was a problem with the cruise control itself (which would presumably be covered under warranty) I took the car to a Nissan dealer. They said that the clutch was wearing out and so the gear was slipping (or something) when the cruise control was trying to accelerate, causing the cruise control to cancel.
I was pretty shocked given that the car only has 45,000 miles on it and I don't grind the gears or ride the clutch. I spend a good bit of time in D.C. area traffic, but even considering that, 45,000 miles?? I did buy the car used, so it's possible that the previous owner did a number on the car in the first 10,000 miles or so, but it still seemed unlikely. I haven't noticed any other symptoms of the clutch dying except that recently, when I accelerate in 1st gear and am around the engagement point, occasionally there is sort of a metal-on-metal sound; almost like when breaks need new pads or something, but not as high pitched or loud.
Any thoughts on: a) if the issue is really the clutch, and b) if so, why it would cost so much to replace?
My 2005 Subaru Legacy 2.5i - the engine light is on and the cruise control light is blinking. This happened once before and it went away after I recapped the fuel cap. However, this time it did not work. The car is running ok.
View 4 RepliesThis has happened only once the other night. I was cruising about 50MPH, hit the brakes for a red light, while I was at the red light the Cruise Control light started flashing. The cruise control would not engage at any speed during the flashing stage, and I didn't think it would as a flashing light usually means a malfunction. I went a few miles turned the car off, restarted it and haven't had a problem since. Just chalk this up to a 1 time glitch?
View 8 RepliesI own a Nissan Altima 2008 2 door coupe and a light that looks sort of like a clock with ticks underneath has lit up in my dashboard on my left hand side. It's NOT tire pressure nor can I find what it means in the manual book.
View 13 RepliesSo I'm driving along with everything fine till I pull into a neighbors driveway to drop off some stuff. As I pull in, the check engine light suddenly comes on and the cruise control light starts blinking. As I have a scangauge II always connected, I put the car in park and check the code. It comes up as P0000. I get on my Droid III and google it - all I see is "null code" so I clear the codes and everything is fine. I figure "that's odd, but whatever". I drive home (about 1000 feet) and park and shut the car off and go inside to mull this over.
I go back out to check out the scangauge again and it requires starting the car to read out the codes. The car won't start. The battery is fine, and in fact it does the "rurrr rurrr rurr" strongly for 10 times before I figure it's not starting. I wait about 30 seconds and try again - same thing. I wait about an hour or two and try again and it starts this time right away, but then stalls right away. Start again and manually give it some gas and it keeps idling weakly. I'm able to back out and drive a short distance and come back without a stall. I let it sit for the weekend (no shops open anyway) and start it monday morning with my AAA card out... and it starts fine and runs fine all day. I basically forget about it.
About a week and a half later, I'm driving along a country highway at 55 Mph, and the same thing happens. Check engine light, cruise control light blinking and the cruise actually cuts out so I'm losing speed suddenly. I run the scangauge again and same code. The car keeps running fine though, I'm able to drive it back (w/out cruise control) the 5 miles home. Nothing out of the ordinary.
I go inside and google this some more, and there's some posts about the Scangauge causing this - but I've been using it for about 4 years w/out this happening. That said, about 2 months ago, there was a recall, and they flashed the ECU with some update so maybe that changed something, but still - worked for months before this happened. I had to get to work etc so I just cleared the code again, and so far 3 days without a recurrence. Currently I'm thinking about waiting to see if it happens again and going to Autozone and have them read the code to see if it really is the Scangauge not reading the code right or whatever...
I have a 2007 subaru outback ll bean addition with 67,000 miles. For the past year and a half my gas pedal has intermittently become unresponsive. The engine is running just fine but the check engine light and cruise control light start blinking and boom-no gas. After turning off the engine, the car won't start until the gas pedal has magically started working again. The dash lights continue to blink for several starts but then stop.
Prior to this problem, I have noticed that sometimes the console lights for the radio and AC blink and sometimes go dark at which point the controls are ineffective. As if this wasn't enough, just yesterday when trying to start the car, the engine was having trouble turning over with a rapid clicking noise. It eventually started but now the seat belt buckle alarm is out of whack and the speedometer displays "ER U1."
I took our '99 Mazda Protege in for a clutch replacement. The mileage is over 150k. The car was returned with the air bag light blinking and the cruise control and horn deactivated. All were fine beforehand. The shop eventually admitted that they could have broken the clockspring during the repair. They are going to get back to me tomorrow with a quote for the repair and they told me they are going to "work with me" on the cost. I don't understand why I should pay for anything associated with the clock spring repair. Another mechanic told me they had to secure the steering during the clutch replacement and probably forgot to do it, furthermore they should cover 100% of the repair.
View 19 RepliesI have a 93 Aerostar 4.0 and it is displaying the blinking airbag light (3-2) and the horn doesn't work and the cruise control failed. I believe it is the clockspring ...
QUESTION: Can the clockspring be repaired or must it be replaced. I do not have a schematic of the electrical components of the clockspring ...
My cousin's camry has a cruise control problem. It's not turning as we press the switch on the steering wheel. There's no light illuminating and we looked around the car for the fuse, which we did not find. I tried calling the dealership and they said there's no fuse for the cruise control for this model. It is built into the ecu. I believe there should be a fuse for it.
View 1 RepliesMy cousin owns since brand new, a 2008 Nissan Altima 2.5, automatic, 61k miles (90% of that highway)-immaculate condition. No longer under factory warranty.
Driving to the airport a few days back the car starts-every 2 minutes or so- bucking and almost stalling, although it never did stall. He flies off and upon returning 5 days later, while driving back home the car starts acting up again. The symptoms are more severe now and getting progressively worse: there is loss of motive power and the max speed is 15-20 mph. He takes it straight to the local Nissan dealer on the way home. Nissan Dealer takes it in for diagnosys on the spot: leaking radiator internally, allowing coolant in the transmission.
I have an '08 Nissan Altima. Recently, the A/C automatically kicks on when I push the start button. And, the blower switches from the floor to the chest position. This started about the time I put a new battery in the car.
View 1 RepliesThe green light comes on but the cruise control does not engage. It did work one time the other day but usually doesn't. What should I check?
View 2 RepliesI bought a 2005 subaru forester xt a cohple months ago and then the CEL went on and the cruise control started blinking. The car also shook horribly. Long story short, and $2,300 later, i got the "head gasket set, water pump, timing kit, oil&filter change, " etc... Fixed. Question is, I am driving to Colorado from Maine in about two weeks. How long do subarus last after such repairs? Think ill get a few years out of it? Or should I sell it and buy a more reliable car before the trip out there.
View 11 RepliesMy dad has a 2005 Ford F150 and his airbag light buzzes and flashes. We counted and it flashes 5 times then short pause then 1 flash then long pause and restarts. Also I dont know if it is related but his cruise control doesnt work either.
View 9 RepliesI recently bought a Nissan Altima and noticed that the sunroof area rattles when I go over a bumpy patch of road or a manhole cover. The sound is definitely a rattle and not a squeaking sound. I can replicate the sound by smacking the roof from the inside of the car and it's contained mostly to right above where my head is near the bottom left corner of the sunroof.
When I got the car I removed the wind deflector that's attached to the roof because I really don't like how they look. I also removed the wind deflector arm since the plastic connector to it broke when I removed the deflector. I'm guessing the sun cooked the plastic parts and it just snapped. I doubt the rattle is due to the arm being removed but I added it in just in case. This weekend I removed part of the trim on the inside of the roof and blew compressed air to get debris out but the rattle is still there.
How to get this annoying problem to just go away?
My car is a 2008 Nissan Altima 3.5L. It has an automatic cvt transmission. Here's the scenario: I turn my car on and shift into drive. I'll drive for maybe 10 feet and I will hear this strange sound that can only be described as a dull knocking followed by a dull scraping sound. The dull scraping sound will last for about 5 seconds. The sound appears to originate from behind the gas pedal, and I'm think I can feel the gas pedal vibrating very slightly as it is happening. The only condition that makes this sound happen is when I shift from park or reverse into drive. If I start my car and put it in drive it happens. If I'm at a red light go to park then drive, it happens. If I turn my car on, go in reverse, then drive, it happens. However it doesn't happen if I just stop and don't change the gear selector. It's been happening since I bought the car at 56k miles, I'm at 69k now. I haven't seen any decrease in performance, the car runs like a champ.
View 6 RepliesThe switch for CC works fine and will turn green and say 'on' when switched on, but it will not actually work (will decrease speed as soon as you let off gas, just as if it were not on). We replaced the whole gauge panel with one that had CC in working condition (exact same model) and this did not solve the problem.
View 3 RepliesMy son owns a 2008 Nissan Altima with about 110,000 miles. The engine has a ticking noise that is louder and faster when the car accelerates. It is worse when the car is cold. Once it warms up, the noise will get less and even goes away. Valves? Doesn't seem to be tire related and we recently had the belts checked and replaced when needed.
View 3 RepliesI have a Nissan Altima 2000 with about 98,000 miles. The "check engine" light has been on. This happened once before and eventually the light went off, but now it is on again. I read the manual and it said that the gas cap isn't on tight enough. Checked that and it is fine - but the light never went off. Should I bring it in to a mechanic?
View 5 RepliesIt ran out of gas with the previous owner and they say the steering is new and the hybrid battery is new and the 12 volt is new but when I got it I had to get the 12volt battery trickle charge which it charge to 80 percent and it still didn't start only goings from lock, acc, then on never say ready no sound but when I pull the IGCT relay the fans come on but it don't start what is this relay?is this car just like Toyota primis. What could be the problem of this mechanism to get it running I have the only one in my town which no one knows how to work on It.
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