My car sounds like it's dragging something but when I look under it there's nothing there. The sound it makes is comparable to the sound a snow plow makes as its plowing the road. The sound is constant but gets worse when I brake. What could be the cause?
View 10 RepliesI own a 2006 Nissan Altima with about 90500 miles on it. Recently i took it in for service and to fix a problem where the car was making this metallic sound while driving. The mechanic discovered that the sound was caused by a low engine oil level causing the timing belt tension to lose pressure and make the sound.
The mechanic also found a Nissan Service Recall/Campaign (NTB06-082) related to Engine Oil Consumption where the following occurs: "extremely low engine oil level resulting from higher than normal engine oil consumption due to a manufacturing problem in some engines". NTB06-082 states that the first thing the dealer should do if the recall applies is reprogrammed the ECU followed by doing an engine oil check.
What steps I should follow to get the Nissan Dealership to take a look at this particular issue? I imagine that it's going to be hard convincing them that the NTB06-082 may apply to my vehicle.
I drive a 2010 Nissan Altima and my front tires have been making a kind of roaring sound. More of a "woo-woo-woo-woo" sound. It doesn't get louder the faster I go, but it does make the sound faster when I pick up speed. I used a jack to lift all 4 tires off the ground and shake the wheels, but there was no slack or sound so that would rule out the wheel bearings right? The car doesn't shake or vibrate either and when I let go of the steering wheel, the car stays straight. That would also rule out wheel balance and alignment right?
View 19 RepliesWhen it's cold and the car heats up, you can hear the hood sheetmetal make an 'oil-can' buckle sound. Happens frequently while running in cold weather. It's not the hood itself, but perhaps the metal underneath. It's noticeably loud.
View 2 Replies4 cyl automatic 58000 miles - Couple of days ago my wife said her car was making a sound like it was dragging something. It started as she came to a stop getting off the highway, and then intermittently the 5 miles home from there. I took it out right away and couldn't get it to do anything. Yesterday she said same thing. I got in the car and heard the sound immediately as I pulled away from the curb and at the first stop sign (hadn't gone over 15 mph yet) - then it went away.
I'd describe it as if you were scraping the edge of a piece of plywood on rough pavement.
Driveability seems fine so far. Was going to take it in for tranny fluid and coolant change anyway this week - I searched back quite a ways and didn't see similar post but thought I'd ask anyway.
I have a 2006 Subaru Forester with 115K miles. It's been well-maintained and well-loved.
For the past few months, the brakes have been inconsistently making a dragging/grinding noise when coming to a stop at low speeds (<5mph). It sounds to be coming from the front half of the car - I can feel it vibrating a little near the driver side. We've taken the car in to be looked at three times - each time, the mechanics think they've heard the noise and report there is absolutely nothing wrong with the brake pads or rotors. Twice they reported a shim was out of alignment. After the last shim adjustment, the noise got a little better - instead of grinding, it's more of a dragging sound now. Because the noise is inconsistent, I haven't been able to crack the formula of the conditions that produce it, other than that it only happens as I'm coming to a stop at very low speeds.
Is there something besides the brakes we should be having inspected? Does this sound safe to drive?
I just replaced my front brake pads and rotors. Car had no squeaking sounds before this. When changing the right front pads and rotor, the set screw that holds the rotor in place snapped on me when I tried to remove it. I drilled out the remaining screw and inserted an easy out / screw extractor to try to remove the broken screw. Screw wouldn't turn/budge and eventually the easy out snapped in half while trying to turn it. Here is where I fear I made a little problem into an even bigger one; I tried to remove the broken easy out by banging the back end (smaller end) of it with a hammer and screwdriver, hoping it would pop out from the front of the hub. No success, and continued using a lot of force to try to remove it from the rear part of the hub. Eventually I noticed the hub area by the back of the easy out bent a little from me using force from the rear to remove the easy out. I stopped there, bent the hub section back to original shape (didn't bend too much to begin with) and sawzawed off the protruding end of the easy out from behind.
After driving a few times I started noticing the squeaking sound coming from the front right wheel, the sound sounds like is in tune/harmony with the wheel rotation. As soon I step on the brakes, the sound stops. I had a similar sounding problem with a rear wheel a long time ago and it ended up being that the bearing needed adjustment. I know the front bearings are pressed in so they can't be adjusted. I am thinking the force used to try to remove the broken easy out damaged something with the hub or bearing or maybe the axle nut.
I noticed yesterday a sound, like a grinding sound, *sometimes* as I apply the brakes to stop. I'm at 68k. The noise only happens when the brakes are applied so I suspect there is an issue with my brakes again.
Some BACKGROUND info: At around 60k (or 8 months ago roughly), the front pads were replaced after the brakes were squealing and a pulsating brake pedal when stopping. The pads were replaced by a dealer. In addition, both front/rear rotors were turned at the same time. Rear pads had 40% at the time and were not replaced.
Some weeks later the pulsation came back and I went back again and they machined them again. For this current issue I was thinking about taking the car to someplace local (not a dealer) and getting a free brake evaluation of what is going on.
I'm also concerned that all this machining the dealer did to eliminate the pulsation may have decreased the life of the rotors and perhaps they need replacement now.
My car, a 2006 Nissan Teana, is making a screeching sound when i press the gas pedal. This happens only when the car is moving since when i press the pedal when it is stationery, on neutral, no sound comes out.
My mechanic suspected that the engine belt tensioning pulley was the problem. We replaced it but the noise still there.
Initially, it was not loud and one took long to hear it. It is now getting louder.
We bought a used 2009 Nissan Rogue about a year ago. According to the previous owner, all services were done at the local Nissan dealer.
About 4000 km after we bought it, my wife noticed that it was shuddering after she applied the brakes. So I took it to the dealer... and they said that the front calipers were seized and needed to be replaced. It only had 82,000 km or so (51,000 miles) on it then. The previous owners paid for the repair, which included new calipers, pads and rotors.
Fast forward to yesterday, and I was told by the independent garage that we take all of our vehicles to that one of the rear calipers had seized and needed to be replaced. The vehicle only has 104,000 km on it (about 65,000 miles). Again, the caliper had to be replaced, along with all pads and rotors on the rear end. When I commented to him that we've replaced 3 out of 4 calipers, he said that the other rear caliper looked like it had been replaced too.
My question to the group is - should calipers that have been serviced properly seize like that? I'm of the opinion that they shouldn't if they're being checked regularly and serviced properly.
Am I correct? Or not? I've owned a lot of cars in my lifetime, and this is the first time I've had seized calipers on any of them.
Is it just me or is this an ABS thing? during a snow storm i was going about 25mph and had applied the breaks and started making a grinding noise... if it is the abs how are you suppose to work with the response time for a quicker stop.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2000 Nissan Altima that works great except when the weather becomes cold in the winter. The brakes don't work when I turn on my car. The brake lever will not press down at all and once or twice (before I realized this was happening) my car went sliding down the road without an ability to stop. I can't tell if they start working after the car warms up or after I've pumped them for a while because they'll start working again at random times. Sometimes it takes a few seconds and sometimes it takes a few minutes.
View 15 RepliesGuys, my 2005 V8 is giving me the annoying sign (making a squeal noise while driving that actually goes away when I apply the brakes) that my pads are wearing out. "Just brakes" quote me $89 to change the pads. That sounds too good to be true.
View 5 RepliesI have an 97 Altima. When I hit on the brakes, it seems to be okay, but once I let the pedal go, there are clicking noise coming for the front wheels.
View 9 RepliesWith only 1,800 miles on my 2016 Sonata Limited, the brakes make a high-pitched noise when applied and backing up. I noticed yesterday the noise has also started as I brake for red lights.
View 5 RepliesI recently started noticing that a creaking sound occasionally (but increasingly) when turning my 2005 Nissan Altima. It seems to happen more after storms, significant temperature changes, and in the morning. It happens when turning in either direction.
It doesn't always happen, and I don't feel any grinding or disturbance in the wheel when turning. I rolled the window down to see if I could hear any more clicking or popping when turning, but I don't really seem to hear it outside of the car. It seems like it's almost emanating from the steering column.
The sound is not a steady popping or clicking sound. It sounds more a slow creak, like you'd think of hearing on a door in an old scary movie. I think I've heard a click here and there, but I can't be certain for sure.
The Guys got it pretty good right here: [URL] .....
When I start the car in the morning & step on the gas there is a fluttering noise which happens each time I accelerate until it warms up. I bought the car with 17,000 miles on it and I didn't notice it happening then, but it was warm weather then.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2011 Sonata with 40k miles and am hearing what sounds like a dragging ... medal touching medal .... brakes dragging sound coming from the passenger side mainly when the car is cold. Could this be a possible wheel bearing going out???
the car is lowered about an 1.5 inches and and sit on a staggered wheel set. 18x8.5 up front and 18x9.5 in the rear. Just want to know if I should be worried.
My car is a 2008 Nissan Altima 3.5L. It has an automatic cvt transmission. Here's the scenario: I turn my car on and shift into drive. I'll drive for maybe 10 feet and I will hear this strange sound that can only be described as a dull knocking followed by a dull scraping sound. The dull scraping sound will last for about 5 seconds. The sound appears to originate from behind the gas pedal, and I'm think I can feel the gas pedal vibrating very slightly as it is happening. The only condition that makes this sound happen is when I shift from park or reverse into drive. If I start my car and put it in drive it happens. If I'm at a red light go to park then drive, it happens. If I turn my car on, go in reverse, then drive, it happens. However it doesn't happen if I just stop and don't change the gear selector. It's been happening since I bought the car at 56k miles, I'm at 69k now. I haven't seen any decrease in performance, the car runs like a champ.
View 6 RepliesSo, my family owns a 2006 Nissan Altima, and it's developed a strange problem recently. It would start fine when cold, but then if I park it and come back 20 minutes later, it won't start again. Apparently this is a thing that happens with Altimas. Now for a while, it was starting after two or three tries, but now it just simply isn't turning over. When I watch it under the hood, it shudders some, and then there's a puff of warm air/exhaust, i don't know. I've read it might be the cam shaft sensor, but after replacing that the problem hasn't gone away, and a few people have said it might be the fuel pump, but I replaced that as well and it's still not starting up. I'm thinking i might try to replace the crankshaft sensor next but I thought I would ask here for advice and opinions just in case. This isnt the first time this has happened with this car, apparently - this happened once before, and the camshaft sensor being replaced fixed it.
View 15 Replies2006 Nissan Altima 2.5s.
I started my car yesterday and the radio came on as normal. When I turned off the car, it did not shut off as normal. This continued through a couple of stops.
When I got home and turned off the car, the radio was still playing. I disconnected the battery, the radio stopped. I reconnected the battery and now the radio will not turn on but everything else in the car is working fine.