Nissan - Altima :: 2002 - Stud Broken From Inside Of Wheel
Feb 17, 2011
I went to a big box store to have new tires put on the rear of my 2002 Nissan Altima. They told me I had a stud broken from the inside of the wheel. The lug nut is still attached, and they can't get the wheel off. Both the stud and the nut turn freely within the socket. Is there any way to get this off without having to pay the $70 a tire place will charge me to fix it? I don't know how long its been like this. I currently have three new tires and one old.
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I've got this 02 Nissan Altima 126,000 miles. I did a front brake job on my self, new rotors and ceramic pads. Immediately after the brake job, I started hearing this horrible grinding noise when weight is shifted to the driver side. It happens when I take apply the brakes or make a right turn. When making a right turn I don't need to apply brakes to hear it. I can sometimes hear it faintly when driving normally.
I took it to my mechanic. He first inspected my brake job, disassembled the rotors and pads, applied brake grease, and reassembled everything. The problem continued. He lifted the car, and had me get in, put it in gear, accelerate, then applied brake, no noise. There is no sign of anything rubbing or grinding in the wheel assembly.
After inspecting the tie rods ends, he replaced the inner and outer on both sides. No Luck. He then replace the ceramic brake pads with regular pads which has reduced the noise but it is still there. I asked around and two other mechanics have suggested the wheel bearings, my mechanic believes this is unlikely.
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2010 Elantra, broken front right wheel stud. I removed the rotor and it looks like there's not enough room to R & R without removing the whole hub assembly due to the dust shield. Is this correct?
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I have searched and I can only find instructions for the front. The rear is completely different right? I am assuming I need to remove the disk rotor. Can I pound out the broken stud with a sledge hammer and will the new one just fit in from behind or is there more to it?
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I recently bought a 2010 accent 4 dr. and broke a rear wheel stud. The local auto parts store lists front studs and I was told they cannot get rear ones. What is the difference?
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I broke one of my rear studs off today when I was putting my wheel back on. The rest seem okay, but I'm wondering how difficult it is to replace them? Is it as simple as hammering the broken one out and replacing it with a new one? I don't have to take the drum off, right?
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I have water inside the passenger door of my 2011 Nissan Altima. I can hear it sloshing whenever I make a turn, start, or stop. I'm concerned that this will rust out the door. How can I get it out of there?
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Whilst flushing the radiator the drain plug snapped in half and is now inside the actual radiator. It's not screwed on the threads but inside the valley. I got a replacement plug, but I'm a little worried about that piece blocking up the flow to the engine or even worse going into the engine. Will that piece cause any damage if left or do I have to try and get it out(mission impossible)?
It's a Nissan Skyline 1990 with the RB30E engine. The lower hose is on the opposite side to the plug.
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I had new tires put on my 2011 Altima around 35,000 miles. I started noticing a hum, so I checked the mechanic notes and they said I had a bent right rear rim. So, I had them replace it immediately. The hum (which only happens specifically at 40mph and at 75 mph) remained so I attributed it to new tires and breaking in.
I took my car to a shop around 45k miles for a check engine light, which ended up being an ECM issue that required a dealer service. I also had him check the tires as the hum was still there. He just rotated the tires and sent me on my way. This is when the steering column started shaking, so I had the dealer check it out and they told me I had a bent rim! Go figure, I've been driving on this thing for about 10k miles.
So, I ordered a new rim and had a local tire place put it on and they showed me the bent rim. Now I thought this would solve things but I was wrong . I still fee the vibration in the steering column at high speeds and the annoying wah hum is still there.
I'm a little lost as to what the problem could be so I'm looking for some insight? Should I start with having the other 3 tires balanced? Could it be that the bent rim caused uneven wearing on my tires over the 10k miles and it may take time to even out? There's no noticeable wear on the tires to my seeing but I could be wrong. These tires are 50k mile tires. Could the bent rim have caused other unseen damage? Keep in mind the wheel they replaced is now on the rear.
I know another cause of shaking could be the rotors but as far as I know they're in good shape and breaking is still smooth. so if they were the issue causing vibration at high speeds I would surely feel it in the breaks.
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I THINK my wheel bearings are going on my 2003 Nissan Altima. It has about 95k miles on it and it has been making what I would call a mid-toned rumble or a low pitched rattle (imagine shaking a metal box full of rocks). The noise is coming from the front driver's side. It's more subdued when driving in really wet weather. I am more aware of it when I drive at slower speeds. It doesn't seem to change when I turn the wheel either way, and it definitely gets more pronounced when I go over a bump or a rough patch. I recently had my front rotors and pads replaced, naiively hoped that might fix it - wishful thinking - and stupidly forgot to ask my mechanic about it then. I need to call to schedule a repair, but I would like to be prepared and to know if anything else might make this noise. (and I don't want to jack it up and shake the wheel or anything).Approximately how much does it cost to have this fixed?
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I have a 2002 Nissan Altima. When I am sitting at a light, there is sometimes a shudder that runs through the vehicle. If I put it in park while at a light, it doesn't happen. Also, when I'm accelerating, there is a sound like a rattling growl coming from the front right of the vehicle.
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On 4/11/11 - we replace the clutch in our son's Nissan Altima. Yesterday - the clutch died as he was getting on the highway. It was towed to the same repair shop. They took a quick look and said it's likely the new clutch is gone. They weren't sure what our son did to it. We're baffled. What could he have done in 6 wks that would totally blow a brand new clutch? At this point - we don't know whether to throw good money after bad.
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It's Nissan Altima 97. My friend need to take her road test so I let her borrow my car this weekend to do some road practice (I was in the car with her). Besides all the heavy braking, and sudden acceleration. She did alright. Because she is from VT, so she was practicing this VT Turn Around (I have never heard of it before today). She turn the wheel all the way to the right and back up.
I heard a small popping noise, and didn't pay too much attention to it at that moment. However, After she finish that VT Turn Around, we started to driving down the hill, and heard this metal-on-metal noise. It lasted for 10 ft, then went away. The noise is coming from my driver side front wheel. When I got off the car, I found the center of the wheel cover pop off.
(see this link for the pictures) [URL] .......
Now here are my questions. What just happened? and do I need to get it look at immediately, or can I wait until the next oil change?
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This summer I replaced the inner and outer tie rod ends on a 97 Nissan Altima, had a bent wheel replaced, and had an alignment done. Everything worked smoothly for the last 5,000 or so miles. I had my tires rotated and balanced recently which created a new problem, a shaky steering wheel most noticeable at slow speeds. I've had a similar problem before and had it fixed by balancing the tires. I took it back in to have them rebalanced, thinking they may have forgotten to do it the first time. They rebalanced them and the problem has not changed at all.
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I drive a 1999 Nissan Altima GXE and when i turn the a/c on or turn my steering wheel the car makes a rattling noise towards the belt. I have replaced the belt and i check all the electrical components that are runned on that belt. But i cant figure it out. I think its something to do with my pulley system because my power steering/ac are runned on the same belt along with my alternator and other components. What to check.
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In the past 4 months, I have had a issue with my car. I have had a miss in my car and I can't find out whats going on with it. I have changed the plugs, coil packs, crank sensor, but it still has a miss. One or two of my plugs looked like they had fouled out, when I changed them before putting new ones in it. I am really getting frustrated with it. I also changed the fuel pump. What to do with my car since it is my only means of transportation with getting my son to school.
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Question: after replacing rear shocks on 2009 Altima, does in need a rear wheel alignment? After shocks were replaced on my Altima (without wheel alignment), I drove about 4500 miles. After that the tires were rotated and the back tires installed in front. I immediately noticed loud road noise, mechanic says it is uneven tread wear and I think - this is too much of a coincidence. So should they have done the alignment when they replaced the rear shock absorbers or not?
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I've noticed a creaking sound coming from the left front wheel when I go over a couple of particularly large speed bumps. I have had a lot of problems with the suspension in this car, and have replaced the front struts, the front right control arm, and the sway bar links and bushings. My best guess is that this noise is coming from the front left control arm, as it has not been replaced, although my current mechanic says that the front left control arm is fine. Also, it has been under 10 F here the past few days, so this could also just be a result of the cold weather.
Video of the noise: [URL] ....
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So I recently bought a GTI and started to fix a couple things. It has a P0420 code so I bought a new downpipe to install. Noticed the stock one was missing 1 of the nuts and the stud had broken off. How get this out? Do I need to remove the turbo? Looks like I do need to remove the turbo to use an extractor set.
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I broke one of the wheel/hub studs on my 2006 Ford Focus, when I tried to take the wheel off. So, this car lived through 7 winters in Boston metropolitan area, and it has about 90,000 miles on it.
I bought the car used last summer, so I don't know what the previous owner did, but I have always torqued my wheels since I bought it. But one of them broke off anyway, when I tried to take the wheel off. I took off the brake caliper and the disc to see the condition of the broken stud. The hub and the stud seemed to have rusted together. I recently moved from California via Oregon, so I am not used to seeing a lot of rust on anything. So, I can't tell whether that is a lot of rust or just normal run-of-the-mill rust I shouldn't have to worry too much about.
I checked online and found that if a bolt/stud is rusted, and if I cannot get it loose by banging it with a hammer, I should torch it and let it cool before trying to loosen it again.
I would like to hear some anecdotes about loosening wheel studs. I went to Harbor Freight today to get a hammer. One guy told me I should get the 8 pounder with a long handle (looked to be 3 feet or longer), so it will be easier to aim and provide steady force. He said it would be like putting a golf ball. I was also looking to get a torch, and he said that I need to heat it until it glowed, so small propane bottle torch would not be enough. But he said for a relatively newer car like mine, a few taps with an 8-pound sledge hammer should be enough.
I am also concerned that I might end up breaking more stuff and have to replace the entire hub, which would be a costly proposition. How much would it cost if I took it to a mechanic?
Also, seeing that some of the other nuts didn't go in smoothly, would it do any good to replace all the lug nuts?
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I was not able to just hammer the old stud out because the space behind hub is too close to allow it to come out so I cut it off with a metal blade and popped each piece out easily. Now the problem is getting a new one in. I rotate the hub looking for spot it will go in easily keeping it horizontal but it seems every way is going to force it in and it will ruin the threads. The end away from the threads has the wider cap and it prevents it from going into the hole straight. It doesn't appear to be easily accessible like the older Honda's. The way they have fabricated parts in this area makes it challenging.
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