Nissan - Altima :: 1997 - Idles Up And Down / Stalls If Not Given Enough Gas
Aug 5, 2013
I have a1997 Nissan Altima 140k miles with the manual transmission. I have a fuel problem that I can't seem to solve. every 1-2 days and only intermittently and unpredictably my car starts to idle up and down and occasionally if I don't give it enough gas they car may stall but the stalls only happen when I am not pressing the accelerator, meaning only at resting idle. since I am fanatic on washing my engine, I initially though that spark plugs were dirty or not working, I changed the spark plugs the distributor cap and the wires but the symptom continues. then I check the resistance of all the four fuel injectors and all of them read at around 12.8 ohms. I have also treated the fuel system twice with injector cleaner, the kind that you find at a gas station but still, the problem persists.
if it is not too much trouble I have another smaller questions. if the car sits overnight or for a couple days, the shift is really easy but as the car warms up the shifting becomes harder. could the transmission fluid need to drained and replaced?
View 3 Replies
Advertisement
I have a 1995 Nissan Altima GXE 4cyl and it has been rough idling for a while now but now I have this new problem. While I drive the car and after it has warmed up, the car shuts off when I'm at a stop. When I'm at speed, it runs just fine and smooth and I only have problems at stops. I then restart the car just fine and continue driving. I'm having to keep doing this over and over. What could be the cause or causes for this?
View 4 Replies
My wife's 1998 Nissan Altima , 100 K miles, starts to shake and stall in the summer when the A/C is on and she stops for a light.
View 2 Replies
I own a 2000 nissan altima GXE, and recently i have had a lot of problems, it would stall out randomly and OBD2 scanners said knock senor, EGR, and thermostat. I changed the knock sensor, cleaned the EGR valve and the EGR valve gasket, and haven't touched the thermostat. I changed other things like the crankshaft sensor, fuel filter, fuel pump is fine, alternator, valve cover gasket, and spark plugs. It started stalling all the time after I changed the rotor in the distributor cap, it stalled before but less than after we changed the rotor.
The car would stall randomly when the RPMs would go below 1000. I took it to my friends dad who is a mechanic and he was the one who changed the PCV valve and the EGR valve gasket and cleaned the EGR, he also cleaned the intake and changed the knock sensor. The SES light finally went away but the car would stutter when i would be stopped with the A/C on and i go to press on the gas. once the RPM hit 1000 it would stutter. It didn't stall until a week and a half later. I was told it could MAYBE be throttle position sensor, computer, thermostat, oil loss from valve cover gasket, and idle speed control.
View 3 Replies
1995 Nissan Altima with 230,000 miles stalls while driving within the first 5 minutes and could immediately restart and was fine for the next 20+ miles. Well now she stalls when I try to gas her or when she switches gears (when going from 40 mph to 45 mph) and she needs a little time to rest before she will start up again. My dad seems to think she got a little low on oil at some point and the computer is freaking out. He has already tried replacing the fuel filter. This was my first car.
View 8 Replies
My friend told me for the past year she has been having trouble with her sentra. she has taken it to the dealer & they could not figure out whats going on. So here is what she described to me. '02 nissan sentra exe with 54k miles. when she gets to a stop light/sign and the car is at idle, it stalls. she said it stalls when slowly going in reverse out of her driveway and when she slows down to pull into her driveway. the check engine light has never turned on and the car starts back up again right away. What is going on?
View 6 Replies
on 1997 Nissan pickup 2.4-liter engine do you have to take off the valve cover to clean out EGR ports.
View 1 Replies
I have a 1987 automatic Nissan Sentra XE- two barrel carburetor, mileage 212,880. The car has one major problem that is going to get me hit driving it in rush hour. Most mechanics will not touch the car due to being carburetor.
Let me explain: the car idles real rough at times, hesitates at stop signs and red lights, about stalls out on me when I press the gas pedal to go or when I start to make a left or right turn. However, other times the car has little to no hesitation and idles perfectly. I have not been able to come up with a good a pattern with this problem.
I have replaced, fuel pump & filter, spark plug wires, coil, distributor, ecu computer, ran sea foam through the fuel system and have replaced many vacuum hoses.
View 4 Replies
1997 Nissan altima se 5 speed... I changed valve cover gasket after the spark plugs where filled with oil Put to much silicon on gasket then fixed the problem it doesn't leak any more. But the car keeps burning out spark plugs it will start right up with new plugs but after running for about 5 minutes they burn out turn black.
View 4 Replies
1997 200 SX SE coupe. It has the 1.6L engine and is a 5 speed.
I recently purchased this car and it had the CEL or check engine light on. The part store stated the codes were: P0304 X 2 and P1445.
Here is my problem that occurs mainly once the engine is warmed up- it started bucking and hesitating whenever I push the gas pedal. It doesn't do it when the engine is cold- at least it is very slight and hard to notice. On the highway at constant cruising speeds the car rides and purrs great. While I'm idling at a red light the rpm is constantly dropping about 100 rpm every second.
I have tried the following:
-Replaced distributor cap. The cap was slightly corroded.
-Tested spark plug wires by applying then to metal and looking for spark.
-Did a dry compression test and all cyl ranged from 150-160 psi. (Good levels??)-
-Sprayed carb cleaner around manifold to see if idle changes - nothing
I am fairly a novice at mechanics so I'm still learning. Perhaps the car has stale gas? Not sure how long it has sat, or even if it has been sitting. bad injector? Bad fuel pump/ filter?
View 5 Replies
It's Nissan Altima 97. My friend need to take her road test so I let her borrow my car this weekend to do some road practice (I was in the car with her). Besides all the heavy braking, and sudden acceleration. She did alright. Because she is from VT, so she was practicing this VT Turn Around (I have never heard of it before today). She turn the wheel all the way to the right and back up.
I heard a small popping noise, and didn't pay too much attention to it at that moment. However, After she finish that VT Turn Around, we started to driving down the hill, and heard this metal-on-metal noise. It lasted for 10 ft, then went away. The noise is coming from my driver side front wheel. When I got off the car, I found the center of the wheel cover pop off.
(see this link for the pictures) [URL] .......
Now here are my questions. What just happened? and do I need to get it look at immediately, or can I wait until the next oil change?
View 9 Replies
I get two codes both p0325....
View 4 Replies
I have a 1997 Nissan Altima that I just barely got and it has started to show signs of trouble.
Sometimes when I put the vehicle into drive and step on the gas the car will not move and instead the engine will rev.I'll put the car back into park and then into drive and it'll work fine.
I checked the ATF, which was incredibly low and refilled it. The engine oil was also very low, which was refilled. The problem still persists. So I decided to add a bottle of Fuel Injector Cleaner to the gas tank.
I took the car for a short drive and nothing happened aside from the fact that the Check Engine light now comes on and off. The car also idles between 1000-1500 rpms.
View 19 Replies
I've got a 1997 Nissan Altima (automatic, GXE). Recently it has started stalling. Usually this happens when the engine has warmed up to normal operating temperature (though last night it happened when the engine had just started).
Usually when it stalls it will start right back up, but sometimes it takes a few minutes. Sometimes it will start back up and die right away, other times it will turn over and over but not start. After a few minutes it will start back up. Sometimes it will stall momentarily and then restart right away, but not usually.
The rest of the time the car runs smooth as ever, no surging, no stalling, no erratic idling, no sputtering or anything. Usually the check engine light will come on after a stall, but I get a "no code" code when I check.
This started about two weeks ago, it did it once on a Saturday and then didn't do it again until Wednesday. Since then it has happened at least once a day, and yesterday it happened a lot while I was driving home, but not at all when I headed to work. Today it was fine for about 15 minutes and then started doing it a lot, but the last 3 or 4 miles it was fine again.
What may be the problem? I'm going to check the MAF and throttle position sensors, though I would assume if they were malfunctioning I'd either have more symptoms or I'd be getting a code.
View 10 Replies
I have an 97 Altima. When I hit on the brakes, it seems to be okay, but once I let the pedal go, there are clicking noise coming for the front wheels.
View 9 Replies
If I don't keep in the throttle immediately after start up it will stall a lot of the time. It doesn't do this every time or if it sits for a while but if I drive it and then stop off at a store or something and then go to start it back up it gives me this problem. I notice it idles about 3-4k RPM's when I stop at a light or something too.
View 14 Replies
2002 f150 4.6l v8... Truck is misfiring and the exhaust is smelling very rich, I have new coils and plugs, it also idles rough and stalls if i let it idle for more than a couple minutes. Could it be something with fuel delivery system?
View 1 Replies
i have a 2003 nissan altima with 99288 miles on it. i just got it changed yesterday and one of the tech's showed me and said there was condensation on the oil cap and the oil was dark. he recommened an oil system cleaner. is this accurate or is there something more i should worry about? he also said i was 1/2 qt low. last time i got my oil changed at the same place he said my oil was 2qts low and recommened a semi sythenic blend to flush things out, which i did do. i usually get my oil changed about every 4000 miles or so, i try for 3000 but not too successful. i also drive 1/2 hr to and from work every day at a min.
View 11 Replies
As I was driving home, I came to a stop. When I depressed the accelerator to move, nothing happened. No gas was getting to the accelerator, the car wouldn't move, but the engine was still running. So I shifted the car in park and back to drive and I began moving. This happened on several occasions.
What is the problem? The gas filter? The gas pump? The fuel injectors or The transmission?
View 1 Replies
So, my family owns a 2006 Nissan Altima, and it's developed a strange problem recently. It would start fine when cold, but then if I park it and come back 20 minutes later, it won't start again. Apparently this is a thing that happens with Altimas. Now for a while, it was starting after two or three tries, but now it just simply isn't turning over. When I watch it under the hood, it shudders some, and then there's a puff of warm air/exhaust, i don't know. I've read it might be the cam shaft sensor, but after replacing that the problem hasn't gone away, and a few people have said it might be the fuel pump, but I replaced that as well and it's still not starting up. I'm thinking i might try to replace the crankshaft sensor next but I thought I would ask here for advice and opinions just in case. This isnt the first time this has happened with this car, apparently - this happened once before, and the camshaft sensor being replaced fixed it.
View 15 Replies
2003 Nissan Altima 2.5 SL automatic - starts fine when the engine is cold but won't when the engine is hot. It acts flooded. I've changed the camshaft and crankshaft sensors, spark plugs, one spark plug coil, radiator, valve cover and the coolant temperature sensor. The car will turn over but will not start - sometimes it will after 5-10 minutes of trying.
View 1 Replies
