Nissan - Altima :: 1997 - Shift Car Into Drive And Engine Just Revs But Won't Move?
Aug 3, 2016
I have a 1997 Nissan Altima that I just barely got and it has started to show signs of trouble.
Sometimes when I put the vehicle into drive and step on the gas the car will not move and instead the engine will rev.I'll put the car back into park and then into drive and it'll work fine.
I checked the ATF, which was incredibly low and refilled it. The engine oil was also very low, which was refilled. The problem still persists. So I decided to add a bottle of Fuel Injector Cleaner to the gas tank.
I took the car for a short drive and nothing happened aside from the fact that the Check Engine light now comes on and off. The car also idles between 1000-1500 rpms.
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My car is a 2008 Nissan Altima 3.5L. It has an automatic cvt transmission. Here's the scenario: I turn my car on and shift into drive. I'll drive for maybe 10 feet and I will hear this strange sound that can only be described as a dull knocking followed by a dull scraping sound. The dull scraping sound will last for about 5 seconds. The sound appears to originate from behind the gas pedal, and I'm think I can feel the gas pedal vibrating very slightly as it is happening. The only condition that makes this sound happen is when I shift from park or reverse into drive. If I start my car and put it in drive it happens. If I'm at a red light go to park then drive, it happens. If I turn my car on, go in reverse, then drive, it happens. However it doesn't happen if I just stop and don't change the gear selector. It's been happening since I bought the car at 56k miles, I'm at 69k now. I haven't seen any decrease in performance, the car runs like a champ.
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As I was driving home, I came to a stop. When I depressed the accelerator to move, nothing happened. No gas was getting to the accelerator, the car wouldn't move, but the engine was still running. So I shifted the car in park and back to drive and I began moving. This happened on several occasions.
What is the problem? The gas filter? The gas pump? The fuel injectors or The transmission?
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Is it possible that my break pedal was frozen this morning? I pulled out and drove the 1/4 mile up my shared driveway. When I tried to stop at the top of the road, my break pedal wouldn't move. I think the van that I pulled out in front of was just as surprised as I was! It was 12 degrees here, but I've never heard of such a thing.
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I've got a 1997 Nissan Altima (automatic, GXE). Recently it has started stalling. Usually this happens when the engine has warmed up to normal operating temperature (though last night it happened when the engine had just started).
Usually when it stalls it will start right back up, but sometimes it takes a few minutes. Sometimes it will start back up and die right away, other times it will turn over and over but not start. After a few minutes it will start back up. Sometimes it will stall momentarily and then restart right away, but not usually.
The rest of the time the car runs smooth as ever, no surging, no stalling, no erratic idling, no sputtering or anything. Usually the check engine light will come on after a stall, but I get a "no code" code when I check.
This started about two weeks ago, it did it once on a Saturday and then didn't do it again until Wednesday. Since then it has happened at least once a day, and yesterday it happened a lot while I was driving home, but not at all when I headed to work. Today it was fine for about 15 minutes and then started doing it a lot, but the last 3 or 4 miles it was fine again.
What may be the problem? I'm going to check the MAF and throttle position sensors, though I would assume if they were malfunctioning I'd either have more symptoms or I'd be getting a code.
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I have a 2002 Nissan Altima. When I am sitting at a light, there is sometimes a shudder that runs through the vehicle. If I put it in park while at a light, it doesn't happen. Also, when I'm accelerating, there is a sound like a rattling growl coming from the front right of the vehicle.
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My 2001 altima wont shift to high gear. driving around town seems to be ok, will driving on the highway be dangerous?
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My wife's AC quit blowing air last week (a '05 Nissan Altima), so I decided to check all the fuses before just replacing the blower motor. I pulled all fuses out in all three fuse boxes and didn't find any blown. Got a call from an upset wife later that day saying she could not shift the car out of park. Currently, she is driving it by using a screwdriver to release the safety switch next to the shifter.
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My automatic 2007 Nissan Altima has developed an intermittent problem when I go to shift it into park it won't shift down past neutral. I can't physically move the gear shift past neutral and can't take my key out of the car. If I wait awhile or drive off somewhere else it will later allow me to shift normally again and won't happen for awhile. It has happened maybe 8-9 times but I worry it will get worse or break the transmission. I've taken it to a mechanic and they looked at the transmission and didn't see a problem but sense they couldn't recreate the issue they couldn't fix it.
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My boyfriend bought a 1999 ford explorer, he put about 2,000 miles on it in four months... I believe it now has roughly 110,000... Now the other day, he was pulling out and shifted from reverse to drive, we heard like a loud clunk/thump noise... It shifts into drive, and revs but won't move, it feels like neutral... If you shift to second, first, or reverse it's fine... Tranny fluid is good... O/D is always engaged...
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We have a 2012 Nissan Altima. There have been 3 times that it would not start -all times were after a long drive and a trip to the coast! Battery is fine. Nissan dealership could find nothing wrong. Why this is happening ? Is it possible this is a censor /salt problem?
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I have a 13 Altima and have been hearing a clunk/pop sound when coming to a stop and sometimes when changing from park to drive and park to reverse. It seems to also be there when accelerating too and the car is also seem to be vibrating when moving at lower speeds. Today i noticed something else. I parked the car and took the key out. I went to the side of the car and slowly rocked it back and forth and started to hear this clunk sound. I have uploaded it to youtube and can be found here [URL].... . After hearing the sound, I decided to take the driver wheel off and noticed it makes the same sound when i move the tires. It seems to be coming from the CV joint, where it connects to the transmission. why would a car make that clunk sound with the car/key off and swayed back and fourth? does this seem like a CV joint issue or something related to the transmission.
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I have a1997 Nissan Altima 140k miles with the manual transmission. I have a fuel problem that I can't seem to solve. every 1-2 days and only intermittently and unpredictably my car starts to idle up and down and occasionally if I don't give it enough gas they car may stall but the stalls only happen when I am not pressing the accelerator, meaning only at resting idle. since I am fanatic on washing my engine, I initially though that spark plugs were dirty or not working, I changed the spark plugs the distributor cap and the wires but the symptom continues. then I check the resistance of all the four fuel injectors and all of them read at around 12.8 ohms. I have also treated the fuel system twice with injector cleaner, the kind that you find at a gas station but still, the problem persists.
if it is not too much trouble I have another smaller questions. if the car sits overnight or for a couple days, the shift is really easy but as the car warms up the shifting becomes harder. could the transmission fluid need to drained and replaced?
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on 1997 Nissan pickup 2.4-liter engine do you have to take off the valve cover to clean out EGR ports.
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1997 Nissan altima se 5 speed... I changed valve cover gasket after the spark plugs where filled with oil Put to much silicon on gasket then fixed the problem it doesn't leak any more. But the car keeps burning out spark plugs it will start right up with new plugs but after running for about 5 minutes they burn out turn black.
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1997 200 SX SE coupe. It has the 1.6L engine and is a 5 speed.
I recently purchased this car and it had the CEL or check engine light on. The part store stated the codes were: P0304 X 2 and P1445.
Here is my problem that occurs mainly once the engine is warmed up- it started bucking and hesitating whenever I push the gas pedal. It doesn't do it when the engine is cold- at least it is very slight and hard to notice. On the highway at constant cruising speeds the car rides and purrs great. While I'm idling at a red light the rpm is constantly dropping about 100 rpm every second.
I have tried the following:
-Replaced distributor cap. The cap was slightly corroded.
-Tested spark plug wires by applying then to metal and looking for spark.
-Did a dry compression test and all cyl ranged from 150-160 psi. (Good levels??)-
-Sprayed carb cleaner around manifold to see if idle changes - nothing
I am fairly a novice at mechanics so I'm still learning. Perhaps the car has stale gas? Not sure how long it has sat, or even if it has been sitting. bad injector? Bad fuel pump/ filter?
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It's Nissan Altima 97. My friend need to take her road test so I let her borrow my car this weekend to do some road practice (I was in the car with her). Besides all the heavy braking, and sudden acceleration. She did alright. Because she is from VT, so she was practicing this VT Turn Around (I have never heard of it before today). She turn the wheel all the way to the right and back up.
I heard a small popping noise, and didn't pay too much attention to it at that moment. However, After she finish that VT Turn Around, we started to driving down the hill, and heard this metal-on-metal noise. It lasted for 10 ft, then went away. The noise is coming from my driver side front wheel. When I got off the car, I found the center of the wheel cover pop off.
(see this link for the pictures) [URL] .......
Now here are my questions. What just happened? and do I need to get it look at immediately, or can I wait until the next oil change?
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I get two codes both p0325....
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So tonight my wife got off work at 7pm, she gives me a call and tells me she is on the side of the road. I was like wtf, what happened....anyways long story short I drive 30 miles out, by that time tow truck just arrived and flat beds the passat wagon to dealership.
So what my wife told me she got off work, drove about 2-3 miles down the road and then lost power and she pretty much came to a stop. Then she called me. Then tow truck came and towed it it dealer.
So issues I noticed, car starts fine, no engine lights on, but when you put in any gear, drive, reverse, sport mode etc. car does not move at all and engine just revs up. I'm think thing torque converter or something but really have no clue. Anyways tow truck tows car to dealer I start back up car and for f same car has power again can go forward, can go backwards! Yeah right, so I said let me see if I can drive around the block, so get in car start driving and then the power starts to fade and only drives about 100 feet before the lack of power happens and start to come to a stop. I did notice some slight grinding noise but by that time I wasn't moving anymore.
So we park in an open spot(had to push the beast) and then went home and here I sit and type my problem. What is going on and why all of a sudden without any notice this would happen. It has been a great car for us and we just had it in the dealer on Tuesday for oil change and they said everything looks good besides your rear pads are getting low... This just really sucks and couldn't of happened at a worse time. Just don't understand why the 2.0t transmission would do this all of a sudden. I pray that we don't need a new one replaced.
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I have an 97 Altima. When I hit on the brakes, it seems to be okay, but once I let the pedal go, there are clicking noise coming for the front wheels.
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I had something unusual happen recently... I backed out the driveway and went to put the car in drive and found the shift lever harder to move than normal and it wouldn't go into drive. It would go into park and reverse easily enough. After some manipulation it went into drive and ran with no problems to my destination. At first, I thought something fell down into the mechanism and was causing it to bind. AND of course, when I showed it to a pal, I could not recreate the issue. The next morning it worked fine, but it happened again later in the day, but it took much longer to get it into drive.
On the way home, the check engine and traction control lights both came on. I dropped it off at my mechanics and he diagnosed error code C1201 P0705 and claims that the remote starter (shop installed after market) is interfering with the transmission control module. I contacted the installer of the starter and he says it is not possible, but I know something is wrong... Now, I can't get it to act up and the idiot lights are gone. I need to rely on my vehicle and can't afford to be stranded somewhere. I feel it would be pointless to take the car to the installer, since the warning lights are gone and there are no shifting issues now.
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