Nissan - Altima :: 1997 GXE Stalling When Engine Warmed Up To Normal Operating Temp
Oct 21, 2011
I've got a 1997 Nissan Altima (automatic, GXE). Recently it has started stalling. Usually this happens when the engine has warmed up to normal operating temperature (though last night it happened when the engine had just started).
Usually when it stalls it will start right back up, but sometimes it takes a few minutes. Sometimes it will start back up and die right away, other times it will turn over and over but not start. After a few minutes it will start back up. Sometimes it will stall momentarily and then restart right away, but not usually.
The rest of the time the car runs smooth as ever, no surging, no stalling, no erratic idling, no sputtering or anything. Usually the check engine light will come on after a stall, but I get a "no code" code when I check.
This started about two weeks ago, it did it once on a Saturday and then didn't do it again until Wednesday. Since then it has happened at least once a day, and yesterday it happened a lot while I was driving home, but not at all when I headed to work. Today it was fine for about 15 minutes and then started doing it a lot, but the last 3 or 4 miles it was fine again.
What may be the problem? I'm going to check the MAF and throttle position sensors, though I would assume if they were malfunctioning I'd either have more symptoms or I'd be getting a code.
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I have a 1997 Nissan Altima that I just barely got and it has started to show signs of trouble.
Sometimes when I put the vehicle into drive and step on the gas the car will not move and instead the engine will rev.I'll put the car back into park and then into drive and it'll work fine.
I checked the ATF, which was incredibly low and refilled it. The engine oil was also very low, which was refilled. The problem still persists. So I decided to add a bottle of Fuel Injector Cleaner to the gas tank.
I took the car for a short drive and nothing happened aside from the fact that the Check Engine light now comes on and off. The car also idles between 1000-1500 rpms.
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My cousin owns since brand new, a 2008 Nissan Altima 2.5, automatic, 61k miles (90% of that highway)-immaculate condition. No longer under factory warranty.
Driving to the airport a few days back the car starts-every 2 minutes or so- bucking and almost stalling, although it never did stall. He flies off and upon returning 5 days later, while driving back home the car starts acting up again. The symptoms are more severe now and getting progressively worse: there is loss of motive power and the max speed is 15-20 mph. He takes it straight to the local Nissan dealer on the way home. Nissan Dealer takes it in for diagnosys on the spot: leaking radiator internally, allowing coolant in the transmission.
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I have a 2002 Nissan Altima that has a hard time starting but runs fine once started. It is very difficult in the winter when the temp is below 25 degrees. Sometimes it take me 5 to 6 tries to get it started. I have had the vehicle checked by two mechanics and recently had the battery replaced. The mechanics said the car looks fine. Could this be a fuel injector problem or moisture in the fuel system?
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When the temp drops below 40 degrees I get growling/vibration. When I took it to the dealer the service supervisor test drove it. He then checked with one of the mechanics who said they all sound like that. I called Nissan. They told me I had to resolve the issue with the dealer (who is now out of business).
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Sometimes, when the engine is at normal operating temperature, it won't start up when I turn it off. For example, let's say on my way home I stop off in a supermarket to pick up some stuff. I'll come back out 20 minutes or so later, only to find out my car isn't starting. I'll turn the key and the engine will crank, shake and then immediately die on me [I'm under the impression the engine isn't even starting at this point because tapping the gas does nothing]. Again, this is a problem that is only happening sometimes. I can do the same routine tomorrow and it'll start up flawlessly.
1) This is only an intermittent problem. The problem doesn't seem to be occurring more frequently, but when it does happen, the engine is harder to start. For example, the first time this happened to me, I got it started after one or two tries. After my latest episode, it took me 11 tries to get it running!
2) After the engine does finally start, the engine will run really rough and shake a lot until I tap the gas a few times (which is leading me to believe this is some sort of fuel related problem [sometimes, the engine will start on one try, but will run rough until I tap the gas a few times]).
3) When the car is cold, it starts up flawlessly every time without fail.
4) The car runs mint! No hesitation or otherwise stalling, etc.
What I've done so far to try to remedy the problem:
1) Changed spark plugs
2) Fuel line cleaning/flush
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My girlfriend has a 97 Ford ranger that can't make it out of the driveway when it warms up to operating temp. This is what was replaced thus far. Cat, timing belt, plugs and wires, air and fuel filters. It has about 37 psi at the rail, the codes shown were second 02 sensor, and fuel to lean on bank one? I looked thru a few postings but I'm actually at work and can't really spend too much time looking thru much more. The timing was checked about three different times just thinking that was the problem after the new belt was installed. It does idle perfect at all temperatures it just won't go when it warms up. Unplugged the TPS, no change, was thinking electronic ignition module but not sure if it has one or where it is if it does.
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I have a 2003 Corolla with 178K miles and a 2007 Camry V6 XLE with 30k miles. Both make a tapping sound when the engine is not at normal operating temperature (when the engine is still cold during the morning). I've changed the oil regularly on the Corolla with 5W-30 oil every 5k miles. I'll be making my first oil change on the Camry in about a 1 week.
The tapping noise goes away once the engine gets warm. Is the tapping noise normal? I don't hear this noise from our Honda Odyssey, which uses 5W-20). Can using a different weight oil work?
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How long would you say the engine reaches the full/normal operating temperature?
I have tandem parking at my place and in the morning my GF leaves for work before I do. So I drive at least about a mile before I shut off the engine to make sure everything is warmed up.
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Idles really high at startup until the engine gets to normal operating temperature and falls back to normal. Takes 10-15 minutes. I recently de-greased the engine and think I may have fouled a sensor...though the check engine light is NOT on. I'm afraid if I keep this the way it is it will cause damage to the engine.
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I have a1997 Nissan Altima 140k miles with the manual transmission. I have a fuel problem that I can't seem to solve. every 1-2 days and only intermittently and unpredictably my car starts to idle up and down and occasionally if I don't give it enough gas they car may stall but the stalls only happen when I am not pressing the accelerator, meaning only at resting idle. since I am fanatic on washing my engine, I initially though that spark plugs were dirty or not working, I changed the spark plugs the distributor cap and the wires but the symptom continues. then I check the resistance of all the four fuel injectors and all of them read at around 12.8 ohms. I have also treated the fuel system twice with injector cleaner, the kind that you find at a gas station but still, the problem persists.
if it is not too much trouble I have another smaller questions. if the car sits overnight or for a couple days, the shift is really easy but as the car warms up the shifting becomes harder. could the transmission fluid need to drained and replaced?
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on 1997 Nissan pickup 2.4-liter engine do you have to take off the valve cover to clean out EGR ports.
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1997 Nissan altima se 5 speed... I changed valve cover gasket after the spark plugs where filled with oil Put to much silicon on gasket then fixed the problem it doesn't leak any more. But the car keeps burning out spark plugs it will start right up with new plugs but after running for about 5 minutes they burn out turn black.
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