Nissan - Altima :: 1995 - Won't Start After Driving Below Low Oil Mark
May 2, 2016
I have 1995 Nissan Altima and it will not start. When I jump the car battery with the jumper cable and when the Cables are connected, the Car starts. As soon as I take the jumper cables out, the rpm drops and immediately the Car engine dies (stops). I checked the battery with Digital Multimeter and the batter is good. This Car was run on very low engine oil (way below the "Low" mark on the Dip stick for 3 days running 30 to 40 miles/day. 2 or 3 months, I noted that engine oil "Low" indicator on my dashboard and did not get oil change immediately. Since this car is my second car, I do not use it every day. It is parked always, and I start it once in 3 or 4 days and run it for 20 minutes to make sure that Battery will not go down. Few weekends before this problem, the car started well and I did not notice any "low" engine oil indicator on the dashboard. So, I never changed the engine oil as I forgot about it.
3 weeks back, I gave the Car to a friend of mine who came here from another state. He took it to his office ( 15 mile away ) and in the evening the car would not start. Finally, someone had jump started power station and they jumped the car with it. The car started Next day, he did not use this car. 3rd day, the car started when I jumped the car in the morning, and he took it to an office and did not have any problems coming back (total 30 to 40 miles). 4th day, he went to an office in the morning and when he was coming back, the Car died on the road. He got it jumped 1or 2 times and came very close to my home. It died again. After 1 or 2 hours, I came back from office and pressed the gas pedal few times and started it. It started and when I was in my parking place, it died again. Finally, when I parked in the parking lot, I noticed that the steering wheel (it is power steering) became very stiff and would not turn. Also, I noticed smoke smell when I opened the hood. I had to drop my friend in the airport, so I took my good car and took him to airport.
Afterward, I tried to start with jumper cable. The car will start and the engine runs when it is still connected to another car with cables. As soon as I disconnect the cable the rpm drops and engine dies. After noticing that the dip stick shows the oil is way below "Low" mark (there was still some oil on the "tip" of drip stick), I put in 2 quarters of engine oil. I tried starting with jumper cables. The car starts and the engine runs when the jumper cables are connected, when I take them out, the rpm drops and the engine dies. Considering the following:
- This car needs to be towed to the nearest mechanic.
- The Battery is Good and I do not know about the alternator. I noticed "smoke" smell under the hood near engine and alternator when I jumped the Car when my friend was using it. Also, there was lot of noise from the engine when my friend used it for 3 or 4 days (now, I know that it is because there was almost no engine oil). Did the smoke I noticed is because alternator got burnt or due to the burning of gadget b/w engine upper and lower block etc (expensive)?
- The drop in rpm when I disconnect jumper cables - is it due to major damage to the engine. If so, is it worth taking the car to the mechanic and getting repaired.
- If it is not worth repairing this Car, what is the least effective way, I get read of this Car? I want to know whether any car dealer or mechanic shop will buy it for parts etc.
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1995 Nissan Altima with 230,000 miles stalls while driving within the first 5 minutes and could immediately restart and was fine for the next 20+ miles. Well now she stalls when I try to gas her or when she switches gears (when going from 40 mph to 45 mph) and she needs a little time to rest before she will start up again. My dad seems to think she got a little low on oil at some point and the computer is freaking out. He has already tried replacing the fuel filter. This was my first car.
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I have a 1995 Nissan Altima GXE (2.4l) that has been driving me nuts. After the engine warms up, it blows oil smoke out the exhaust pipe whenever I start from a complete stop. I can be stopped for 30 seconds or three minutes, it doesn’t matter, it will have the same amount of oil smoke cloud. The engine does not smoke when first started up when either hot or cold (so no bad valve guides?). The engine does not smoke under hard excelleration (so good piston rings?). I’ve replaced the PCV and hose. The old PCV was really cakes up. There was a CEL code for the EGR valve. I’ve cleaned the EGR valve and replaced the EGR solenoid. There was also massive oil consumption. After only 450 miles, there was hardly and oil showing on the dipstick. I’m using 5/30 convention oil. The engine idles pretty good, and has plenty of power. The pressure test showed good compression on all cylinders (130, 120, 132, 129). I really want to make this go away! How to stop the oil smoke? It’s embarrassing. What should I do next?
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I have a 1995 nissan altima gxe and me rear lights won't turn off even after I put the ignition switch in the off position.
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I have a 1995 Nissan Altima GXE 4cyl and it has been rough idling for a while now but now I have this new problem. While I drive the car and after it has warmed up, the car shuts off when I'm at a stop. When I'm at speed, it runs just fine and smooth and I only have problems at stops. I then restart the car just fine and continue driving. I'm having to keep doing this over and over. What could be the cause or causes for this?
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I have a 2005 Nissan Altima 2.5L 4 cylinder. About a month ago I had check engine light come on and required to replaced the catalytic converter. I replaced it myself with one from Autozone. Now 2 weeks after replacing it; every now and then I'll be driving let off the gas and when I get back on the gas the car starts missing. It has happened several times in the last few days. The car does smooth out after a few seconds but is a hassle and a worry.
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For the last few months while I'm driving on the highway my car will misfire and the check engine light comes on. Every time is the same two codes for crankshaft and camshaft sensor failure. I've replaced the easier one to get to but it still happens. A friend suggested to clean my spark plugs...
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Over the past couple months my car (187k miles on it) shuts off while I'm driving it, about once a week, sometimes less. It only seems to happen while driving 30 mph or less and starts back up after 5-10 min. I'm trying to sell it now and don't know how to explain what is going on with the car w/o putting someone off completely. I'm sure it's fixable, I just don't want to deal w/it anymore and need a larger vehicle.
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I have a 4 cylinder, 2002 Nissan Altima with about 170,000 miles on it. About 2 months ago, the car starting misfiring while driving and the engine light came on. I went to autozone, used their diagnostic tool and it said I needed to replace the fourth cylinder's ignition coil. I ended up just replacing the spark plugs at that point. After replacing the spark plugs, the misfiring seemed to stop, but the check engine light was still on although the car ran great in comparison.
Then, about 2 weeks ago, the car started smelling like gas and slightly misfiring again. I bought set of ignition coils and changed them out. I started it up, the car seemed to work great. I went to the store about an hour later and the car worked better all the way there with no problems. Then, as I was about to leave the store, I started the car up and it started sputtering and misfiring and you could visibly see the engine shaking like crazy when I popped the hood. It stopped shaking, evened itself out, after about a minute. Then, I felt the top each of the coils and the first three were fine, but the fourth had a rapid tapping coming from it that was obviously not right.
I gave it a couple of days, but the car didn't stop smelling like gas or misfiring when starting up, so I pulled out the ignition coils and the spark plugs. The fourth spark plug was brown and burnt from the bottom to the halfway point, unlike the other still-clean spark plugs. My first hopeful thought was, maybe it wasn't tight enough and that was letting gas or oil inside to burn. I tightened it up, put everything back and it seemed to be alright, even the tapping from the coil stopped.
However, within the last couple days, the car has been smelling like gas and feels like it sputters and misfires once I start it up. The misfiring seems to stop after I rev the engine a little bit, but sometimes when I'm idling, you can still smell the gas and sometimes audibly hear a sputtering.
So my question is: what the hell could be wrong? Faulty wires, a stuck valve, bad compression, what? Remember, the fourth cylinder's spark plug was only burnt on the bottom half if that's useful.
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Do I buy an engine or sell the car for parts? My son’s car overheated while driving down the hwy due to a radiator leak. After a first and second opinion, two separate mechanics told me the engine has no compression so basically was shot. The car was in good shape with 102k miles and everything worked. Internet surfing has some used engines with 80-100k miles from $800-$1200, some guaranteed some not. Is it better to rebuild the original engine or buy another used one? Labor cost on top of an engine wont be cheap. Are other parts under the hood expected to be replaced too as a result of the engine overheating?
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My Nissan Altima is normally fine but after about 40 minutes to an hour of driving even in cool temperatures the car stops wanting to accelerate much and the RPM needle will jump from 1-2k to 5k almost instantly when applying more gas. I can be at 5k RPMs and barely climb 1 to 2 mph every few seconds in my car. This issue will persist till I turn the car off for a short while. Once The car has cooled down and been idle for a bit the car works fine again for 40 to 60 minutes. I also don't want to take it in because I doubt they'll get the problem to reproduce unless they drive it for up to an hour.
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I have an automatic 1994 Nissan Bluebird which I think is equivalent to the Nissan Altima in the US.
My car seems to jerk whilst driving, not specifically under load. Sometimes when I'm in park with my foot on the brake, it feels like its very subtly jerking on the spot. It is a sporadic condition, sometimes my car won't jerk at all (or very few times) on the way to work, and other days it will jerk a lot. On the whole it seems to be getting worse though. When switching between gears when stopped it changes quite roughly (but not violently). Turning on the AC makes the condition worse. It has stalled once in reverse, and sometimes feels like it will stall again when I'm slowing down.
When it does jerk I can hear a noise that sounds faintly like a can of coke being opened (quick sharp pressure release), and it seems like something (possibly a belt) is losing traction/slipping and quickly regaining its grip. My first suspicion was the drive belt or one of the other belts slipping or something like that. Other possibilities I suspect are, from looking through the Hayne's manual:
-Something to do with the transmission (I checked the transmission fluid and it seems fine, very light brown but mostly transparent)
-Fuel filter clogged or fuel line problems (1.5 years ago the car wouldn't start, and a mechanic had to manually inject fuel through the injection nozzles. The fuel was near empty however)
-Spark plugs gap wrong or damaged
-Distributor components damaged (the distributor and alternator were changed last year and swapped in with 2nd hand parts, also the mechanic was very shifty and I think he hacked it into my car without too much care for good wiring, fittings, etc).
Also, I took the car to a mechanic last week and he thought it was the spark plugs, but I think the problem may be more serious than that. He also wanted to flush the transmission fluid but I think I will give this a miss since I checked the fluid and it seems fine, plus I heard flushing the fluid in an old car may have negative effects.
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I own a 2006 Nissan Altima with about 90500 miles on it. Recently i took it in for service and to fix a problem where the car was making this metallic sound while driving. The mechanic discovered that the sound was caused by a low engine oil level causing the timing belt tension to lose pressure and make the sound.
The mechanic also found a Nissan Service Recall/Campaign (NTB06-082) related to Engine Oil Consumption where the following occurs: "extremely low engine oil level resulting from higher than normal engine oil consumption due to a manufacturing problem in some engines". NTB06-082 states that the first thing the dealer should do if the recall applies is reprogrammed the ECU followed by doing an engine oil check.
What steps I should follow to get the Nissan Dealership to take a look at this particular issue? I imagine that it's going to be hard convincing them that the NTB06-082 may apply to my vehicle.
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2003 Nissan Altima 2.5 SL automatic - starts fine when the engine is cold but won't when the engine is hot. It acts flooded. I've changed the camshaft and crankshaft sensors, spark plugs, one spark plug coil, radiator, valve cover and the coolant temperature sensor. The car will turn over but will not start - sometimes it will after 5-10 minutes of trying.
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I bought a new battery when my car would not start, but that was not the problem. There is no code, just sometimes the car won't start. I am pretty sure it does not make a clicking noise, and if I keep trying to turn it over, eventually it starts.
This happens maybe one day a week. It might click once each but I will now pay closer attention. It sometimes comes on after a few tries and sometimes at the most 10 tries. It has been doing this for about 2 months max.
My question is could this be anything but the starter and can I tell by putting it in neutral or doing anything else without having to take the car somewhere or without taking it apart? I already bought a starter.
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My 2007 Nissan Altima Hybrid has had this recurring problem since I purchased it used and I learned the original owner had the same recurring issue and other owners on the internet also. Typically when I go to start my car in the morning, after my car has sat in the garage over night, I depress the brake and the ignition button and **ALL** the warning lights come on including the EV mode ready and Service Engine light but the car has no power steering and the gas engine won't start at all. The car is drivable for about 30 seconds in EV mode then dies. When the car is at the dealer the car starts fine and they can't replicate the issue but find the following DTC's: UOO73, UO100 ECM 211, UO100 ECM 530, UO123, UO124, U0126, U0129 BRAKE 220, UO293,UO131 EPS 433, UO121 EPS 434, U1020, U1022. Nissan replaced the hybrid battery, the hybrid harness and the main car harness and now they say there is nothing more they can do to fix the problem. The problem remains. Have you had the same or a similar issue?
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It ran out of gas with the previous owner and they say the steering is new and the hybrid battery is new and the 12 volt is new but when I got it I had to get the 12volt battery trickle charge which it charge to 80 percent and it still didn't start only goings from lock, acc, then on never say ready no sound but when I pull the IGCT relay the fans come on but it don't start what is this relay?is this car just like Toyota primis. What could be the problem of this mechanism to get it running I have the only one in my town which no one knows how to work on It.
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I have a 2001 Nissan Altima with a few miles on it.(217,734) The A.C. works great while it is on, but it will stop working then start back up. Out of frustration I will turn it off and on until it starts up again. It will run for a little bit then cut out again and I repeat the process. I have switched out the relays and checked the belts, all is well there. What could be the problem?
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My car intermittently will not start for no reason. I first thought the fuel pump going out, but you can hear it and no issues with the car running. I was told the Altima has no fuel filter only a screen, so that's not it? The car will start perfectly 10 times in a row and then it just cranks & cranks & cranks almost to the point of draining my battery. The battery is good (had it checked). Then all of a sudden after cranking the car (good cranking) it'll start right up & run normal ... No fuel leaks to be seen, just out of options?? I called a local garage to ask about a diagnostic check and was told without a code he wouldn't know where to start. Well, unless I bring it in when having the problem - that's not possible. 2005 Nissan Altima SE...
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I have a 2007 Nissan Altima Hybrid that usually runs really well. I get my oil changed and my tires rotated at the recommended times.Now that the rainy season is upon us, I'm having a hard time starting my car. It starts sometimes, but not all the time. Heavier rains seem to decrease the likelihood of starting, though sometimes it starts just fine, rain or shine.
It's got a push button start. I've recently replaced the battery in the key. When I try to start the car, it acts like I've pressed "on" without holding down the brake. The lights and the radio come on, but the engine doesn't start.
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I have a 2006, Nissan, Altima, 3.5se. The vehicle has about 75k miles on it, and is driven about twice a week. I have had no issues until recently. The problem is the vehicle will not start. About three weeks ago I notices one of the bulbs in the headlight and fog lamps had gone out so I replaced them. (I only share this because it is the only thing that changed. Shortly there after I would go out start the car, drive a short distance, park, turn off the car, and come back 15-20 minutes later. When I went to start the car there was no electrical activity .
The battery was completely dead. I had the battery tested, and replaced, thinking this was the problem. Nope still does it. Next I changed all the fuses, thinking a fuse might be going bad, nope issue is still there. I had the new battery tested- it is good, I had the alternator tested 2 different times, it is running and charging the battery. There is nothing left on to drain the battery, as I have turned off the auto door light, unplugged all the phone chargers, and it still does it. When the car won;t start there is no electrical activity. When I go to jump start it it jump starts immediately. It does not cut off while driving. The problem is only when I go to start the vehicle. The alternator comes to mind, but it doesn't cut while the vehicle is idling or driving.
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