Nissan - 350z :: 2004 - Stalls At Idle - Rides Rough When In Gear
Apr 26, 2014
I was driving on the highway today, and when I turned onto the exit ramp and put the car in neutral I noticed my gear shifter shaking back and forth pretty violently. I looked down at the tachometer and saw it idling at less than 200 rpm's in neutral. I got to the light and my car stalled. I turned it back on and I had to feather the gas pedal just to keep the car running. I was able to make it to my local car mechanic with one foot on the gas pedal and my hand on the e-brake. It runs a little rough when in gear but at least it keeps the rpm's up enough to stay running. The check engine light never came on. My guy said that he didn't have the appropriate diagnostic machine, but he's afraid I might need a new throttle body and a new computer which may cost 1000's of dollars. I think the code he told me that he found was P0506. He sent me to a guy that deals only with Japanese cars, but they won't be able to look at my car until Monday.
Any thoughts? Hopefully something that doesn't cost 1000's of dollars. And if I replace the throttle body does that mean I have to replace the computer too? Is there something that I did or that I didn't do that I should have been doing that could have caused this to break?
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I am thinking of buying a car but can't decide between a 2003 Nissan 350Z with 87000 miles on it, or a 2007 Mitsubishi Eclipse with 57000 miles on it. It will be a commuter car for me. I don't know a lot about Mitsubishis.
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I have a 2004 FX4 5.4 with about 113,000 miles on it. Lately, when towing the camper (around 7000 lbs), truck runs great. However, when I come to a stop, it idles horribly and even stalls sometimes. When I rev it up, runs fine again. It only does this after towing when engine is under load for extended periods of time.
The only code it has ever thrown was for bank 2 camshaft over retarded. My thought was that it could be VCT solenoid for bank 2...
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I have a 2004 Nissan 350Z. During the first few years of the car, I always had a gas gauge that read correctly. Then, I had a recall notice about the gas tank. I took it in and got the part fixed. Now, my gas gauge does not read correctly. It rarely shows that it is full. In fact it looks like the needle "floats" up and down when I have driven it and used some of the gas.
Another thing I noticed is if the tank reads below 1/2 a tank and I go in to fill the tank, then start the car up, it looks like the needle just "sticks" and then jumps to almost full. I have put in some gas cleaners to see if that would work and it does a little but two things I would like to know:
If I decide to get this fixed, what is it that I should call this problem? When I mention it to the mechanics, they always act like I am nuts or they have never heard of this problem.
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I changed the plugs on my 2004 F-150 FX4 with 165,000 miles. Immediately afterwards I experienced a low idle problem. After engine warms up, idle is at about 400 rpm in nuetral or park. When I put in gear it drops to 200 rpm and sometimes stalls. Ford analyzer says misfire #8 cylinder. I swapped coils with #7 and reset fault. #8 cylinder misfire came back. So next I put new plug in #8 thinking the plug was bad. Still have low idle problem. What I should try next?
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I bought an 04 f150 super crew cab with the 5.4L triton in it 3 years ago with 50k on it from my great uncle who was the original owner. It's had a tick to it since he had it but the dealership told him they couldn't find anything wrong with it and to get use to the noise. It's ran pretty good up until last couple months where it's been running really rough and not doing the best. It's still hasn't been all the time but more intermittent and comes and goes, but when it's running bad the rpm drops down to about 200 and my motor sounds blown.
When that's happening I could put in neutral and rev it up and it would go back to normal for a bit, but now it's all the time and stalls out even at 70 on the hwy. The codes it throws are, p1000- monitor checks not complete-more driving required, p0345- camshaft pos sens circ error(bank 2), p0022- A camshaft pos timing-over retarded bank 2. Things I have tried-changed all 8 plugs, added K&N air intake, replaced both cam sensors, replaced fuel pump driver module (due to corrosion). Tonight I'm going to clean the throttle body, mas air flow sensor, change fuel filter.
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2004 Trailblazer 6cy. 2WD - has been experiencing a very rough idle, engine shudders - no matter how long it's been warmed up. Wants to stall off red lights and at very low speeds. Not throwing any lights yet - but the speedo is out ( a cam shift typical problem for this car) so I don't trust the console for lights. Worse when the heat or air is on. Rides fine with more gas/higher speeds. Definitely worse in colder temps but continues even after 40-50 mins of driving. I've heard a number of things, but can't afford to fix them all. I've heard plugs, dirty throttle camshaft, sensors, cam actuator solenoid, etc. All seem to have people who said it fixed and didn't fix the issue. Worried I'm going to stall pulling off a stop and rear end someone any day now. Where do I start!?
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I just bought an 2006 f150 4x4 with a 5.4l 3valve, and this morning when I pulled into work it was idling Rough as I let off the gas and rolled into my parking spot. No check engine light or nothing, just when it's in gear Rpm is at 600-700 and vibrating. When I shifted it into neutral or park it went away and the engine ran smooth. According to the oil pressure gauge I've got good flow. I was told from the dealer that they replaced the cam phasers, timing chain and put new spark plugs in it. What the issue is here?
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I have a 1987 automatic Nissan Sentra XE- two barrel carburetor, mileage 212,880. The car has one major problem that is going to get me hit driving it in rush hour. Most mechanics will not touch the car due to being carburetor.
Let me explain: the car idles real rough at times, hesitates at stop signs and red lights, about stalls out on me when I press the gas pedal to go or when I start to make a left or right turn. However, other times the car has little to no hesitation and idles perfectly. I have not been able to come up with a good a pattern with this problem.
I have replaced, fuel pump & filter, spark plug wires, coil, distributor, ecu computer, ran sea foam through the fuel system and have replaced many vacuum hoses.
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My wife has a 2002 Camry V6 SE with about 75k miles. Over the past 6 months the car has developed a problem. Every so often, say once every 2-3 weeks the car will start fine, but after driving for about 5-10 minutes, will start running rough and stall if I stop for a light. It will start again, (with a little effort) and will stall again at the next stop and so on. I can pull off the road, wait 10 minutes and the car will then run like a Swiss watch until the next episode.
I have taken the car to a respected mechanic and he sees nothing obvious wrong and there is no record in the car's computer of any problem. The last time this happened the car had been on the road for about 20 minutes before the stalling problem occurred. I kept the car going at idle by putting in neutral and increasing the throttle.
After we arrived home, the car cut out when we made it into the garage but a rotten egg-like smell was in the air in the garage. After about an hour, the car stated immediately and ran like a top. That was about a week ago and no problems since. I have read in the threads about EGRs Throttle bodies etc.
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2002 elantra hesitates and sometimes stalls staring from rest. Worse when cold but still sluggish after warm up. Where do I start?
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99 explorer 4.0 automatic, lately been running weird. Starts up but will stall out unless you let it warm up. And idle drops below 500 rpm. And is really rough feeling. To like 2 or 300 rpm, then will stall but will start right back up. When I changed spark plugs and wires problem stopped for about 2 weeks and now is back. And has no engine code.
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I have a 01 vw bora 1.8t and recently I let it sit for one day and now it has trouble starting when it's cold and when it does start it has a very rough idle and often stalls out of you try and press the gas. Once it has warmed up she runs fine. My check engine light is on but I have no way to take her down to a shop to get the codes read. What is wrong with my car? One of my friends told me it could be a cool pack or a sensor.
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Here's what is going on with my 2000 Dakota V6 3.9L V6:
After sitting for at least a couple of hours, the truck will crank but not start. After 3-5 tries, the truck does start but idles roughly at a very low RPM for 10 seconds or so and then stalls. I turn the key one more time and it starts up great and idles and drives normally. This behavior is very consistent. I have only driven it about 5 miles after it started doing this, because on that trip, the engine stalled while I was driving. Occasionally the MIL comes on and gives P0443 as the code. Question is, can the evap purge solenoid cause this behavior if it is going bad? I have inspected the vacuum lines, and they seem ok.
One more note: When this first started, I was pretty sure it was the fuel pump. Replacing that has not fixed the problem, and the fuel pump relay is good.
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I have a 2001 Ford Escape, and when I start it for the first time of the day, it idles really rough, and way below 500RPMs (to the point where it almost stalls). After about 10 minutes, when the car is all warmed up, it runs smoothly, as if there was nothing wrong with it. The only conclusion I can draw is that it is temperature related, but I can't figure out exactly what is causing the issue. This happens on the driest or wettest of days, so moisture doesn't seem to be an issue.
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I have a 2003 santa fe I just replaced the cat. in it because it was running so poorly. Now that I've replaced the cat it seems to be worse. The car idles real rough, and cant get it to go over 2000 rpms. No engine light. Had the codes checked and all came out fine. I pulled out the plugs and replaced with new. The car in park ran great until I put it in gear then went back to the same no power, rough idle and cant get more than 2000rpm with out a stall. Stalls but dose not die. Disconnected the pre o2 sensor no change.
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My car has suddenly started stalling a lot. I can get it to start right up if I put the clutch to the floor and it will idle fine until I start coming up of the clutch even while it in neutral. At times it will idle in neutral then start to idle rough and stall. I can drive it in reverse but can't drive it forward except in first if i keep the clutch at a certain point and not release it all the way. However when I try other gears sometimes it's like it does't want to go stalls. What it might be?
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My grand am has a gnarly idle issue. It stalls to turn on and once on it has a very rough idle. When I put the car into drive it stales then just turns off. Drained the heck out of my battery so I was thinking it was an alternator issue but I did a quick test and my alternator seems to be working fine. I did manage to drive my car but once in motion, gears wouldn't shift which has me leading to thinking it can be a transmission issue.
Specs:
2000 grand am
3.4L V6 SE model
automatic
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We are at 120K miles. The vehicle runs fine most of the time, but every once in 10-15 starts, it will rough idle or stall after a short warm up time when my wife stops at an intersection. Once she restarts it, it runs fine.
I have changed the spark plugs and wires, the fuel pump, the crankshaft position sensor (was fried) and after consulting this forum, I checked the fuel pressure regulator and the diaphragm is not leaking.
I was able to recreate the rough idle and the CEL on the dash, but my two OBDII readers said there were no codes And the bluetooth reader I am using is indicating that the following tests are not completing: Fuel System, Catalyst, Evaporative System and Oxygen Senors.
The dash CEL resets itself upon restart and does not light until the symptoms return.
After reading the Haynes Repair Manual, I am wondering about the Evaporative Emissions Control (EVAP) system? But I don't want to lead the troubleshooting.
We bought the vehicle at 60K miles and it has been mostly reliable.
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Truck has a rough idle and finally just stalls out. I replace the under valve cover wiring harness and put in new glow plugs. With valve covers still off I started the truck in the issue still persist. I went ahead and unplugged each injector and each time the motor had a hick up .
What am I pulling apart and replacing next?
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My 2005 2.3l Ranger ran great. I moved a trailer about 150 feet and stalled the truck backing it up. Stick shift. Unhooked the trailer and pulled back into the parking area....all the sudden the truck has extremely rough idle and stalls. It runs good on the highway. AutoZone ran a OEM number to cross: P0171.
I cleaned the IAC with intake cleaner. No Luck
I unhooked battery for 15 min. No Luck
I sprayed intake with 1/2 can of intake cleaner. No Luck
I did not have a tamper torx to remove the MAF. What next.
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