Nissan - 300zx :: 1985 - Tail Lights Mysteriously Come On When Car Is Parked
Apr 15, 2014
My son has a 1985 Nissan 300 ZX. The car has practically been rebuilt. Several mornings a week the car is dead. We have replaced many major car parts over the past 2 years like the ignition switch, alternator, battery, clutch, rotars, brakes and breaks. We even pulled the fuse to the security light as that was drawing many amps when the car was off thinking that was what was causing the dead battery.
If I had not seen this with my own eyes I would not believe it. The car will be parked, shut off for hours and the tail lights mysteriously turn on. The headlights are not coming on, just the tail lights They just slowly come on. We have witnessed this 3 times and have no clue what the problem could be. We walk over and turn the lights on then fully then off. However, the lights are in an off position to begin with.
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The transmission feels like its slipping while in drive. Oddly though, it shifts great using 1st to 2nd to Drive, then using an on / off switch to control 3rd to Overdrive/4th. Its automatic and I am just using the shifter to control shifting, because the car doesn't seem to downshift on its own either. It will stay in Overdrive/4th even at 35mph with the pedal to the floor, only sometimes downshifting after awhile. The car also hesitates slightly while driving at above 65mph on highway. It stops doing so on hills, and it has no issues at lower speeds, even at 5k rpms. Not sure what that is related to. I just bought it, and the transmission fluid is black, not sure if its from lack of maintenance. I assume the transmission needs a rebuild, but the more I know the better I won't be ripped off at a shop.
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When I park the car with the headlight switch in the "on" position, i notice that after a few minutes, the headlights turn off, but the tail lights do not; they stay on indefinitely.
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The truck is parked in the drive. I noticed when the truck had been parked in the drive I noticed that the tail lights came on and then about 20 seconds later turned off. I checked that the ignition was off, doors were completely closed, etc. It has happened several times. I'm worried the there is an electrical problem that might drain the battery.
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I have a 1990 300ZX and the recirculation door for cooling and heating is not working. When I push the recirculate button, the light lights up so I assume the switch is working. Where is the door and how do I get to it to fix it. I'm guessing it is somehow jammed.
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I have a Nissan 300zx Twin Turbo 1993, the gas Tank was leaking gas at the bottom of the tank, and I patched the leak with regular materials I found in Advance Auto Parts. But after few weeks, the gas tank leaked again. The question is it easy to remove the Fuel Tank and replace it with a new Fuel Tank? or how should I repair it without removing it, before I patched it. I am savvy enough to work in cars, but I never removed Fuel Tank before.
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I have a 89 nissan fairladyz32 (300zx) and when i push the clutch peddle in it is very hard and i cant put it in 1 and reverse when it is running but when it is off i can just fine. but then if i put it in 1 gear before starting it and push the clutch in to start the car it lurches forward a little what could this be? and when i leave it to idle for to long it puffs smoke or at first start up? It has about 80,000 km.....
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my 1990 Nissan 300zx with 136,000 miles often surges at highway speeds for several seconds then drops back down to normal. the surge is usually 1000 rpm. does not happen if not in overdrive, and will not happen unless having been driving for 15 minutes or so. also seems to occur more on hot days (80 degree +) than on cool days. mechanic has looked at this several times but not yet able to determine why.
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I have a 1985 Ford Escort which I have to keep parked outdoors at the bottom of a very steep mile and a half long hill. It's right next to a river and very damp and cold and I only use the car once a week, very early on a Saturday morning. It takes at least five minutes of cranking to get it started with full choke. I then have to pull away up this 1 in 4 gradient hill with four of us in the car. About half a mile up the hill there's a junction and if I have to stop at this the car will often stall and be very difficult to restart. If I keep the choke out it will crank and crank and crank. If I push it in it will fire after a few tries but won't stay running. Having problems on really steep hills with cold engines and a manual choke?
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My ABS light stayed on after driving home in slippery conditions last night. I also noticed a burning smell when I parked in the garage.
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So my Nissan Xterra 2006 has started making a weird noise about a week ago. I haven't noticed any problems while driving it but id really like to figure out what's causing the noise. It routinely starts when I start up the car after sitting parked for a while. Example, if I start the car up to go to the store it'll make the noise but after turning the car on and leaving the store I don't hear it. The noise lasts just a little while and is loudest at about 20mph. So once the car is warmed up I don't hear it. I can't really pinpoint where it's coming from because the car has to be in motion driving forward for it to start. It sounds like it's coming from under the car. What it could be.
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Occasionally and randomly, my front two windows will lower themselves. Most of the time... all the way. But sometimes only half way. Both windows lower at the same time to the same degree. This happens only when parked and unattended, not when the engine is running or someone is in the car. It has happened in parking lots (outside) and also in my own locked garage with no one around. Sometimes the car is locked and sometimes (in my garage) it is unlocked. My Nissan dealer has no idea what is causing this nor how to correct it.
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My 1985 Ford F-150 6 cyl. manual with overdrive would not start when I turned on the key, moved moved the key to start... It suddenly did nothing and all the dash light went out. I assumed the battery was run down and then tried to start it with my 2010 Ford car.
It still would not start and all dash lights went out. I then put my battery charger on the battery and charged fully charged the battery. I then turned the key off and back on and the dash light went on, tried to start again and the same thing happened. After about 10/15 minutes, I tried again and still did not start. I waited another few minutes, turned the key on and jumped from the battery positive to the starter cable after the starter solenoid and the engine started.
I ran it for a few minutes, and the backed it into the garage. The next day I again tried to start it and again, there was no power to the vehicle... no headlights, brake lights, dash light...nothing. I assumed the starter solenoid was burned out and replaced it. Still did the same thing. I replaced the fusible link on a yellow wire attached to the battery side of the starter solenoid. Still no power.
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I have a 95 Nissan pick-up truck that is blowing white smoke from the tail pipe, sounds like a choo-choo train, and has visible liquid dripping from the same. What is the problem???
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I have a 1985 Cutlass Ciera Brougham with a 2.5L four. Got in it one day and when I turned the key nothing happened except the dash lights came on. No clicking or buzzing, no engine turning over, nothing... Pulled the starter and had it tested, it passed. Then again it is only about a year old. I then jumped the poles on the starter and the engine came to life. Replaced the ignition switch ( the electrical part ) still have the same problem. Turn the key and nothing happens except the dash lights.
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This is just a basic Sentra 2.0L with a CVT, about 80k miles.
I park on a very very slight downhill grade.. very slight.. almost flat.. The car starts just fine, put it in reverse, push the pedal to the floor, engine revs up to about 1500 rpms (I'm assuming it has a limiter on it because it won't go past 1500) and the car sits still. Release the accelerator, floor it again, car moves about 6", repeat a few times and eventually I can back out. That ain't normal.
It does a similar thing when in Drive, except it will actually start moving but very slowly. So slow that I'm afraid I'm going to get T-boned if I try to make a left turn. Once I get up to about 10mph it starts to feel somewhat normal.
Once it starts moving it doesn't seem to have any trouble maintaining highway speeds. The engine might be running a little faster than normal, but to be honest I'm not sure if it is or not. Pulls up some pretty significant hills at 60mph at around 3k RPM.. which seems reasonable.
What it could be? Transmission is still under warranty so I'm hoping it's that.. I don't really have the $ to throw at this thing right now. By the way - it's not throwing any codes or anything.
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I wrote about the problem I was having back in Jan 2014 (engine would crank too long if I left the car parked for 30 mins to 4 hrs) ..... well, I finally brought it o a good diagnosis tics place and some of the guys that replied to me we're correct ..... they told me that the crankshaft position sensor (1of 2 sensors) was faulty and replaced it.
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I found out last night that all 3 of my brake lights are out. However, my tail lights work, and my turn-signals work. So obviously its not a big wiring deal. I was looking for the brake switch but i don't know where its at because i looked underneath. What fuse is the brake lights cause my manual doesn't have it listed. I drive a 04 Elantra GLS.
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I have a 1999 Nissan Maxima that I am going to pass on to my soon to be 16 year old daughter. Her sister had it when she was 17-18 after I used it for several years. It has 240,000 miles, is in excellent condition and has had many of the vital components of the vehicle replaced. It now suddenly has started blowing a whitish smoke from the tailpipe. It has a very strong fuel smell while at idle or at a stop light or sign. It losses no oil, or coolant. The service engine light came on at the same time roughly that this smoke showed up. Under diag. hook-up it says bad o2 sensor. Should I assume that replacing the o2 sensor will solve this issue? If so, is that something I could do? I read online how to do it and it seems rather simple.
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Is their anyway to get the tail lights to come on with the Daytime driving lights ....
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Is it possible if Lexus can make it so when the Daytime running lights are on that the tail lights come on? It appears MASS has just passed a law when it is raining and you have your windshield wipers on you have to have your lights on...I leave mine on Auto and have auto windshield wipers so kinda takes away the purpose if I have to turn my lights all the way on each time.
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