i have a 96 240 w/ sr20det 5 spd. Problem comes and goes. When at a stop in neutral idles between 1300 rpm down to 0 and almost stalling, then when i take off ( and in any gear) there is noticeable lag and engine wont rev past 5200 rpm like there is a rev limiter or governor. then the problem will just go away for a while. I've only tried cleaning the IAC valve.
View 9 RepliesA co-worker has a 1993 Nissan 240SX. It used to overheat continually. When he stopped at the side of the road the radiator was cool. He changed the thermostat and the problem continued. He bled the coolant system to ensure all air was out of the lines. Finally he took a 1/16th in drill bit, drilled several holes in the thermostat. When that didn't work he drilled even more holes.
Question 1: There must be a better way than this gum and duct tape solution. What is it?
Question 2: Wouldn't he be better off just to take out the thermostat?
I recently got this car from a friend, and when checking all the lights I noticed that only the high beams work, not the low beams. I replaced the lamps, and checked all the fuses, but the low beams still don't work.
View 3 RepliesI have a 1995 Nissan Altima GXE 4cyl and it has been rough idling for a while now but now I have this new problem. While I drive the car and after it has warmed up, the car shuts off when I'm at a stop. When I'm at speed, it runs just fine and smooth and I only have problems at stops. I then restart the car just fine and continue driving. I'm having to keep doing this over and over. What could be the cause or causes for this?
View 4 Replieshave a 1992 nissan 240sx; it shakes when i started the engine or when it idles or @ a complete stop. runs well on freeway & was able to drive home. mechanic thinks it's probably cylinders not firing well over phone prognosis. it also sounds like there may be a leak. it stalled a few times & had to restart the car. no problems restarting. have not brought it in for diagnosis.
View 3 RepliesI cleaned the throttle body with CRC throttle body cleaner and now the motor idles at 1000-1300 rpm. Is this normal for a newly cleaned throttle body? How can I bring down the idling rpm?
View 4 RepliesHave a 2001 wolfs-burg 1.8t, has about 220k miles on it, i know, its a lot. Right now, the check engine light has been on for a few months and the idle is very weird. It goes up and down in neutral from 800-1300 rpms and sometimes i smell gas. Also the triangle with an '!' and circle around it yellow light comes on some times now. I heard it could be MAF or a vacuum leak. A mechanic is going to check it out soon...
View 10 RepliesMy 1991 Nissan 240SX (only 85K miles!) has an intermittent overheating problem that began last November. Needle usually right in middle, but occasionally would quickly rise to danger zone. In Nov., I got new radiator and pump, as well as all new spark plugs. Was OK for about 3 months, then started overheating occasionally. In shop a day and a half while they tried to find the cause. Gave me a new thermostat. Then test showed there was a leak in head gasket. Instead of expensive repairs, I put 8-oz bottle of K-Seal in cooling system. Reviews all over the web gave me confidence it would seal all leaks. But within 5 minutes, it overheated. Tried again later, same result.
View 2 RepliesOn my 1996 Maxima (175k miles, maintained well, good shape, no CEL), whenever I brake beyond a "normal" stop but short of a panic stop, I then put my foot on the gas and it revs as though it's in neutral. It then catches first gear, and the car drives normally. As for the stopping conditions, I don't mean a normal "here comes a stop sign" comfortable stop, and I'm not stopping so hard that I activate the ABS. More like, I look up, see a stop sign 1 second too late, and have to stop slightly shorter than a comfortable stop. The ATF is fine, by the way. Any clue what this could be?
View 4 RepliesMy car has been stalling out while at stop lights and while driving as well as spuddering and hesitating . i brought it in to the shop twice and both times they said it ran fine . they ran the code and gave me a new oxygen sensor and it still stalled. i brought it to autozone today and they ran the code and camshaft position sensor came up. so i put a new one in and it still is stalling and hesitating to drive. also smells really bad when it kick in. What could be wrong . short circuit or wiring trouble maybe? fuel pump ? crankshaft? electrical problem? spark plugs? cant get a straight answer.
View 8 RepliesI just got my oil changed and the company replaced my air filter. After about I week I cannot get my car to run for very long. I notice my car shutter at a stoplight. After I arrived home I turned it off thinking no problem. When I went to go start it up again. The vehicles rpms jump up in down usually between one and zero. When the rpms hit zero the car dies and you can do the start it up again and the same thing happens. While it does this routine the car shutters or feels jumpy.
View 2 RepliesI have a 1987 automatic Nissan Sentra XE- two barrel carburetor, mileage 212,880. The car has one major problem that is going to get me hit driving it in rush hour. Most mechanics will not touch the car due to being carburetor.
Let me explain: the car idles real rough at times, hesitates at stop signs and red lights, about stalls out on me when I press the gas pedal to go or when I start to make a left or right turn. However, other times the car has little to no hesitation and idles perfectly. I have not been able to come up with a good a pattern with this problem.
I have replaced, fuel pump & filter, spark plug wires, coil, distributor, ecu computer, ran sea foam through the fuel system and have replaced many vacuum hoses.
I just noticed that when I turn on the rear defrost the car idles in neutral at 1000 rpm as soon as I turn it on then when I turn out off it goes back to normal. Why its doing this so I need to know what is going on....
View 4 RepliesSo old battery was on its last breath, made it to autozone, got a new Duralast Gold battery (don't really know how good it is, but had 5 year warranty and 3 year replacement). figured what the hell. anyway, now the car idles at about 500rpm or sometimes a little below that and shakes like its about to stall. never stalls though.
View 12 RepliesI replaced the thermostat in my 2000 3.1L Grand Prix SE yesterday. I had to remove the throttle body to get access to it. After putting it all back together, my car now idles around 3000rpm in Park or Neutral. It drops to around 2k when driving which is still a little high. I can definitely feel it taking off faster and it seems to buck a little bit here and there while driving. I did hear a loud hissing sound when I first started it up right around the throttle body area. I don't hear the hissing sound anymore, though. It justs sounds like it's running a lot harder. So my question is, would a leak around the throttle body (I did not use a new gasket and it's possible that the gasket wasn't properly seated) cause these symptoms? On the plus side, my car seemed to heat up super fast!
View 2 RepliesMy 05 f250 v10 runs rough at points and sometimes quits when driving. I find it too that I can't rev it in park or neutral and sometimes when it is cold I can. I was wondering if it was a tps or something with the intake...
View 6 RepliesI have a1997 Nissan Altima 140k miles with the manual transmission. I have a fuel problem that I can't seem to solve. every 1-2 days and only intermittently and unpredictably my car starts to idle up and down and occasionally if I don't give it enough gas they car may stall but the stalls only happen when I am not pressing the accelerator, meaning only at resting idle. since I am fanatic on washing my engine, I initially though that spark plugs were dirty or not working, I changed the spark plugs the distributor cap and the wires but the symptom continues. then I check the resistance of all the four fuel injectors and all of them read at around 12.8 ohms. I have also treated the fuel system twice with injector cleaner, the kind that you find at a gas station but still, the problem persists.
if it is not too much trouble I have another smaller questions. if the car sits overnight or for a couple days, the shift is really easy but as the car warms up the shifting becomes harder. could the transmission fluid need to drained and replaced?
My 1985 Toyota Pickup (manual shift) is stalling out when I put the truck in neutral or don't shift quickly enough. The battery light comes on after stalling followed by the oil light. After stalling, it does start back up and repeats the same problem. If I keep my foot on the gas and the truck in gear, it runs. I'm new to DIY repairs, and bought this truck for the purpose of learning more. I know the basics, am mechanically inclined, have a repair manual, and am a quick learner.
View 4 RepliesSince I have gotten my Sentra 2003 I have had issues with it. This past year my thermostat went about 6 weeks ago. I noticed that when my car would idle the engine would rev. Over the weekend I drove on the highway for 2 hours. When I started slowing the speed don I noticed that I could press the clutch pedal all the way to the floor without any resistance. It came back up. I rolled into the toll plaza and stopped to pay the toll at which point I could shift the shifter into a gear but the car would not catch. No movement. I think my clutch mechanism needs to be fully replaced as the car has 115000 miles with the original still intact. IS that most likely the case and what am I looking at for the cost?
View 2 RepliesMy friend told me for the past year she has been having trouble with her sentra. she has taken it to the dealer & they could not figure out whats going on. So here is what she described to me. '02 nissan sentra exe with 54k miles. when she gets to a stop light/sign and the car is at idle, it stalls. she said it stalls when slowly going in reverse out of her driveway and when she slows down to pull into her driveway. the check engine light has never turned on and the car starts back up again right away. What is going on?
View 6 RepliesI have a 1997 Dodge Dakota V8 (automatic) with about 140k and live in Vermont. Recently, my truck will konk out while I am sitting at a red light. As I'm sitting there, the RPM's keep going down below 700, until finally stalling out completely. When I shift into Park/Neutral then turn ignition, it will start right back up again. To get around this, I have been shifting into Neutral while I wait at the light, then back into Drive when it turns green. I have recently installed a new battery and exhaust system. I am wondering if this is occurring because of worn plugs, a dirty air filter, cracked vacuum hose, or bad alternator?
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