The car won't start. It sounded like the battery was dying when we tried to start it the other day. We went and got a new battery, but it didn't work. It has a new altenator, new starter, new timing chain and it's also had a transmission rebuild all within the last 4 years. I'm not really sure when the spark plugs were last replaced. Could this be the issue?
View 5 Replies1997 200 SX SE coupe. It has the 1.6L engine and is a 5 speed.
I recently purchased this car and it had the CEL or check engine light on. The part store stated the codes were: P0304 X 2 and P1445.
Here is my problem that occurs mainly once the engine is warmed up- it started bucking and hesitating whenever I push the gas pedal. It doesn't do it when the engine is cold- at least it is very slight and hard to notice. On the highway at constant cruising speeds the car rides and purrs great. While I'm idling at a red light the rpm is constantly dropping about 100 rpm every second.
I have tried the following:
-Replaced distributor cap. The cap was slightly corroded.
-Tested spark plug wires by applying then to metal and looking for spark.
-Did a dry compression test and all cyl ranged from 150-160 psi. (Good levels??)-
-Sprayed carb cleaner around manifold to see if idle changes - nothing
I am fairly a novice at mechanics so I'm still learning. Perhaps the car has stale gas? Not sure how long it has sat, or even if it has been sitting. bad injector? Bad fuel pump/ filter?
I'll be driving along, and when I make a relatively hard right turn, I'll hear a buzzing coming from under the hood from that point until my destination. If the car is stopped (usually about 10-20 mins) I'll start it back up and no buzzing.
I've tried pulling over and stopping/starting the car with no luck. I've shifted gears, including into park and neutral, with no luck. I"ve even tried a hard left turn (no luck)!
The buzz is not terribly loud, but rises and falls perfectly with engine RPMs. At idle it's not noticeable, but increases in pitch with the RPMs. It sounds like the engine sounds on a really cold day before it warms up. If I put it in park I can rev the engine and reproduce the same effect as when driving. It doesn't go away at a certain point i.e. I don't think it's resonance.
This is a 1998 Nissan 200SX with about 90K miles.
My alternator went out last week. I installed a new alternator, battery and serpentine belt. However, the battery is still dying. So far I checked the continuity on the fusible link and it appears to be good. I also checked fuse number 11 which provides power to the voltage regulator. The fuse is not blown. The voltage at the battery while it is running is less than 12 volts and it drops the longer it runs. I also have codes b1318, b1932, c 1226, and c1284.
View 8 RepliesSo my daughter has a Subaru Outback with keyless entry and push button start, and her battery kept dying overnight. It turns out that she was keeping her second key fob within 10 feet of the car, so the car's electrical system was kept on all night (sensing that she was approaching the car) running the battery down. The lesson learned (the hard way) was to keep your key fobs far enough away from the car so the electrical system is not constantly energized.
View 7 RepliesI bought a new battery when my car would not start, but that was not the problem. There is no code, just sometimes the car won't start. I am pretty sure it does not make a clicking noise, and if I keep trying to turn it over, eventually it starts.
This happens maybe one day a week. It might click once each but I will now pay closer attention. It sometimes comes on after a few tries and sometimes at the most 10 tries. It has been doing this for about 2 months max.
My question is could this be anything but the starter and can I tell by putting it in neutral or doing anything else without having to take the car somewhere or without taking it apart? I already bought a starter.
I have a 2003 Nissan a Frontier that won't start. I go out in the morning, turn the key, and nothing... no clicks, no sound at all. All lights work fine, radio works, all interior lights work and don't even dim when I turn the key. Searching these forums, I thought it might be the starter so I got a new starter about a month ago. Seemed to work fine until a few days ago when it started doing it again. When I go back out a couple hours later, sometimes it'll start up perfect, like nothing happened, sometimes it won't.
Somebody suggested I shift it to neutral and try starting it, so that's what I just did this morning and it worked... Tried starting it for an hour and got nothing, shifted it to neutral and it started right up. Turned it off, shifted it to park and tried starting it again. Started right up! Starter is 1 month old, so it's hard to believe it would be that. Battery weak or loose terminals? Well if it were that, why would it start right up when shifted to neutral? I don't know how long the "shifting to neutral" trick will work so I really want to get the problem solved instead of relying on a work-around.
At first it began to slow start. Just some coughing before it would start for sure. Sometimes it would start right away, sometimes struggle.
I took it to Advance Auto Parts to have the battery tested and they said the battery was fine.
A day later the car would not crank at all and stranded me at the grocery store. The starter began to fire and then it would stop. After 4-5 tries it would not try to turn over at all.
My friend came and tried to jump me and the care started right up!
When I got home, the car was able to start on it’s own the couple times I tried. I risked going back to Advance to have them test out the battery again, as well as the test of the alternator and starter. Everything again tested fine, as far as they could tell.
While there the car again failed to crank and they heard the noise and immediately felt that the starter was the culprit. I ordered one just to be safe as it took some time to get here. (Plus a starter is like 2 bolts and a wire, what could go wrong?) >.>
I got a jump and got home. I did A LOT of reading, which led me to believe that perhaps it WAS the battery after all.
Last night I began preparations to replace the starter and check for corrosion or a bad cable. How difficult is that starter is to get to! I had to remove the ECM as part of the process.
Today I got the starter as well as a new battery.
First thing I tried was just replacing the batter. No luck, and the starter did not even engage this time. I tried tapping it with a hammer to see if that worked. No luck.
It was at that point I realized I had not connected all the ECM cables securely. I disconnected the battery, reconnected the ECM fully and still had no luck.
Now when I press the ignition button there is a slight whir, and the gauges come up, but there is no other activity.
Is this still a starter problem?Did I screw up the ECM somehow?Is there a short or fuse issue (I have tried to check with my limited knowledge)
I have a a 2003 or 2004 Nissan Pathfinder (can't remember which at the moment). For the past few months, it's been having the same problem. One morning, I'll go out to start the car and the radio will have stopped working, but everything else is fine. A few days later, however, the car won't start in the morning. I'll jump it off, and the car and radio will be fine again for a few weeks. This doesn't last for long though.
Eventually, the radio will go out, and a few days later the car won't start again. I took it to my local mechanic and they tested the alternator/battery/ starter and said they were all fine, and that the battery cables just needed to be cleaned. After the cleanup, the car and radio worked fine for a few weeks...but sure enough, a few days ago, the radio went out. This morning I had to jump my car off again. What the real problem is? I'm taking it to the shop again today, but what else it could be...
My 2006 Nissan Hardbody does not want to start in the mornings. Ive established that this is due to a parasidic battery drain. Ive narrowed it down to the power windows. As soon as i take out the power window fuse the amp drainage reduces dramatically. Ive taken of the door panels and disconnected the switches, however the drainage remains. What else could i check.
View 2 RepliesI have a 1997 Nissan Maxima. The past few weeks, it sounds like it's getting harder and harder to start. Last week, it wouldn't turn over, and had somebody jump me. I took it to Pep Boys and they tested the battery and alt and said both were fine. Tonight, it wouldn't start again, I had somebody try to jump me and no sounds/no activity. About an hour later, I went back to get my car and it was able to start..
View 6 RepliesOur little pick-up truck has 206K plus miles on it and when it rains, it doesn't start and after the rain goes away, the truck is very jittery and jerky. Is this something easy to fix? Is it something that can be fixed? Nissan 1997 S...
View 5 RepliesI bought a 1997Nissan Maxima from my cousin and as he tried teaching me how to drive stick I stalled and the car did not want to start back up we were able to pop start it it to get back to my house. I am unsure whether it is the ignition switch or the relay because the car will start sometimes after I keep trying to start the engine for a while...
View 18 Replies2000 Chevrolet 3500, rear wheel drive Fleetwood, 5.7 liter engine. Slightly over 200k miles on it. I bought it used on June 2nd this year. Bought it from a construction company and they take good care of their vehicles. They must have used it a lot on dusty roads. I made sure the air filter and brake fluids are OK.
June 2014, got new rotor and spark plugs, then after the engine quit on the road home, I had a sensor replaced somewhere in the axle, or transmission, an odd place. Now after 2.5 months of smooth operation, the 5 year battery died (it lived almost 6 years). I put in a new 84 month, heavy duty battery yesterday. Got in the truck to start it up and "click." The battery is doing its thing, lights up the dials and lights if necessary. I turn the key and pause a moment, I hear the fuel pump turn on. Then I turn the key and "Click." The engine does not make any effort to turn over. "Click." Nothing. There is a half tank of gas in it.
I suspect maybe a solenoid as part of the starter, maybe the fuel pump, maybe a blown starter fuse, or blown fuel pump fuse. Thing is they are square fuses and I can't see inside of them whether something is worn out.
We live 60 miles from a Chevrolet shop and maybe 50 from a generic shop. Having the truck towed that far will cost a fortune.
So here's the deal my '02 prius' traction battery is dying really fast. But here's the thing, it will charge fully and be fine for a few months and then one day Its like the battery says, "now I don't want to play anymore." and dies really fast and is a pain to charge even a little bit. I can even drive to work (at least half an hour away) and I can get to freeway speeds and charging 95% of the way and it will still be at a very low charge. Then after a while it will charge all the time while staying fully charged. I'm eventually going to replace the battery anyway but wanted to know if it sounded like something else, too.
View 7 RepliesI bought the car brand new in May of 2009. All was good until February of last year when the battery died. I kind of wrote it off as one of those things that's part of life in AK. But then the same thing happened in November - yes, it was cold again, but it died after I'd successfully started it and drove it to my husband's work. He was inside for maybe thirty minutes. Not wanting to waste gas, it turned the car off and listened to the radio. When hubby came back, I tried to start the car and ... nothing. We had to get it jumped. Hubby said I shouldn't have been listening to the radio with the engine off. Anyway, I had a service appointment at the dealership a few days later and mentioned that the battery died again. They checked it and said it was weak so they replaced it.
Now, of course, I'm super-paranoid about everything that could be draining the battery. I turn the lights off whenever I turn off the engine (even though that's supposed to be something the car does automatically), and only listen to the radio when I'm driving. I've made sure that there's nothing plugged in any of the power outlets, and I don't have anything that's aftermarket. Oh, and middle of last year the radio/CD player died too, and that had to be replaced. Don't know if it's linked, but it's still odd.
The only advice the dealership had was to drive it more. I guess I'm pretty severe on the car - work's maybe a fifteen minute drive (20 if it's snowing) and a fair few of my journeys are short ones, for a variety of reasons. Plus, it's Anchorage, AK. Severe driving's standard here. But I never had these issues with my other cars, and my driving patterns haven't changed at all. Could there be something that's draining the battery that I haven't thought of, or am I really stuck with driving around Anchorage aimlessly for at least 20 minutes each time I get in the car?
I have a 2004 Pontiac Grand Am with about 130k miles on it. For some reason my car has been dying lately. It did this a few times so the obvious thing was to buy a new battery- oct 2011. Everything was good for a couple months but I recently went on a trip for the weekend and when I came home the car was dead. I jumped it and everything was good until this week. I had a work conference and left wednesday at 8am. When I got home Friday at 5pm the car was dead again. I had an alternator test done before but could it be the alternator? I love my little car and would like to get a couple more years out of her!!!
View 7 RepliesMy battery has been dying intermittently. Twice after a week long vacation I have come home to a dead battery. No lights were on in the car and no clear source of a leak. It charged up but would die again after 12 to 24 hours of sitting in the driveway. After the 1st episode mechanics said the alternator and all voltage testing was normal so they just replaced the battery. After the 2nd incident I took my car to a new mechanic and they are saying again the alternator is fine but noticed the battery is shorting (alternator output amperage too high and voltage too low - they put in the shop battery and all returned to normal) and they say I need ANOTHER new battery. I have a hard time believing this but no one can figure out why my car battery keeps dying????
View 8 RepliesOnly electrical mod that was done was the fog light mod so I can turn them on when I want... Is it possible that even if the fog lights are off, that they are pulling some juice from the battery ? In the last 6 months my car has died 4 times, ever since the fog light mod.
View 20 Replies2009 Accent GL Sport manual transmission. Battery keeps dying. 2 batteries over the last 9 months. This is on my son's car. Replaced battery and a few months later it's dead again. Had the system checked no drains on the battery, alternator work great. No fathom drains in the system. The car can set for a week before being driven. The only thing we can think of, because it's not driven every day, the little battery drains out by the systems in the car(clock, etc.). we think there's a .8 amp drain or less.
View 18 RepliesSo I had 1st rough cold start today on 2010 Prius with 72K. Wasn't too cold low 40s. The fix was to shut it down and then turn on again.
Engine sounded like it was working on 3 cylinders. It is probably ignition or perhaps valve train issue.. with ignition being prime suspect. If it happens again I'll pull and check plugs.