I sat in my relatively new (2009) car with the accessories on (fan only) for 20 minutes, now it is clicking and won't turn over. Do i just need a jump? will my battery recover after running?
View 17 RepliesWhen I tried to start my car it wouldn't turnover, clicked and hummed. I took the starter out and had it tested and it was no good. I bought a new starter, put it in and same click and hum. Battery is OK, connection from battery to starter OK and the fuse is good.
View 2 RepliesAt first it began to slow start. Just some coughing before it would start for sure. Sometimes it would start right away, sometimes struggle.
I took it to Advance Auto Parts to have the battery tested and they said the battery was fine.
A day later the car would not crank at all and stranded me at the grocery store. The starter began to fire and then it would stop. After 4-5 tries it would not try to turn over at all.
My friend came and tried to jump me and the care started right up!
When I got home, the car was able to start on it’s own the couple times I tried. I risked going back to Advance to have them test out the battery again, as well as the test of the alternator and starter. Everything again tested fine, as far as they could tell.
While there the car again failed to crank and they heard the noise and immediately felt that the starter was the culprit. I ordered one just to be safe as it took some time to get here. (Plus a starter is like 2 bolts and a wire, what could go wrong?) >.>
I got a jump and got home. I did A LOT of reading, which led me to believe that perhaps it WAS the battery after all.
Last night I began preparations to replace the starter and check for corrosion or a bad cable. How difficult is that starter is to get to! I had to remove the ECM as part of the process.
Today I got the starter as well as a new battery.
First thing I tried was just replacing the batter. No luck, and the starter did not even engage this time. I tried tapping it with a hammer to see if that worked. No luck.
It was at that point I realized I had not connected all the ECM cables securely. I disconnected the battery, reconnected the ECM fully and still had no luck.
Now when I press the ignition button there is a slight whir, and the gauges come up, but there is no other activity.
Is this still a starter problem?Did I screw up the ECM somehow?Is there a short or fuse issue (I have tried to check with my limited knowledge)
I am the owner of a 2013 Pathfinder and a 2013 Altima. If I have both sets of FOB keys on me when I press the start button on my Altima the car goes into battery mode. Will not completely turn on or won't turn off. The only way to shut the car down is disconnect the battery, wait 20 minutes, and hope the car is completely shut down. Then try again and hope the car turns on.
I was told having both FOB keys on me causes interference and only carry the key I need. Besides that being absurd and can't do that because I drive my Altima in the morning and the Pathfinder at night to pick the kids up because the car seats are in there. So what I have been doing to avoid this problem is taking the Pathfinder FOB and putting in homemade aluminum foil bag so the car can't read that key. Nissan seems to think this isn't a problem.
2009 Nissan Sentra automatic transmission. So I leave out early in the morning, about 6:00am and when I start the car (heat and AC start up with the car), it starts just fine, runs for about 2 minutes, and then stalls. When it stalls, all the indicator lights come on. If I during start up I make sure to turn off the heat/AC, then it will start and stay on, but the moment I turn the fan on (even if the AC is turned off) the car stalls (this is true in park or in drive, although I have not tried while the car was moving in drive). Tried running the car for about 20 minutes and same thing. Now here is the perplexing part, if I let the car sit or leave out later, like after 7:30am, then the car starts fine, there is an audible clunk when I turn on the AC/heater but the car does not stall. I've had the car to the dealership who tried resetting the idle but can't get the car to do this there as they open at 8am and of course "the computer shows nothing". The AC was replaced about a month ago, but not sure if that is related or not.
View 6 RepliesI have a 2010 Toyota Matrix with the 1.8L engine that has a battery drain that is causing it to click and have a hard time starting after it sits. The clicking is constant, and basically sounds like a dead battery, which it is.
Battery was taken out and tested on a bench at Pep Boys, came back 100%.
Checked my voltage at night after driving it and it was at 12.5 V, checked again in the morning and it was down to 9.6 V. I know I have a drain somewhere, and have read I may need to keep a jumper across the negative terminal to ground until the moment I hook up the multimeter to it to check for a power draw? Is this year/model known to have certain issues with parasitic drain?
Lately it's been -20 degrees (Celsius) here in Quebec, and when i start driving the car, as soon as i take a turn, i hear a clicking noise coming from the center part of my front, it doesn't sound like it's coming from my wheels at all. It doesn't matter if i turn left or right. The noise goes away after driving for 1 minute.
I took it to the dealer, but of course, they couldn't hear it because the car was warmed up, so I'm thinking of leaving it over night? I read that Civics and Corollas have thick Diff oil that cause this?
So I am receiving this notification when I turn my switch on to just have my radio on. I don't have a reason to believe that the battery is bad as I just bought the truck from a dealer last Thursday. Searches come up it is a known glitch in the safety feature that cannot be disabled and is happening with good batteries.
View 14 RepliesI have a 2009 Ford Escape Limited with 3.0L. When Idling the Battery Light will turn on and stay on and when driving above 45Mph the light will turn off and then turn back on several miles down the road. After taking the car to Autozone and having the Alternator and Battery checked, I was told that the Voltage Regulator was bad and that I had to replace the Alternator due to the Voltage Regulator is not a serviceable part. After replacing the Alternator the battery and charging system is reading 13.86v (steadily) and when idling for about 5 minutes the Battery Light will come back on. I drive about 200 miles daily and do not want to get stranded... What else could be the problem?
View 6 RepliesEvery day I make a u-turn around the median in order to get to our driveway...which means I turn the steering wheel all the way to the left. As I turn the wheel and drive, there is a clannnngKK sound on the driver's side from somewhere near the front. I wondered if there is something getting hung up/caught "under there" but have no real working knowledge (obviously) of my truck's anatomy. It only makes this noise when I make this u turn. I've not heard it any other time.
View 1 RepliesWe have a 2003 Nissan frontier pickup (automatic).The AC recently stopped cooling, but the fan works. It was cooling perfectly great when all of a sudden, it stopped. If we turn the AC on, the compressor (I'm guessing) starts to click and continues to click until turned off. (started to grind under hood). It's not a rattle, definitely a click as if it wants to turn on but can't make the electrical connection. It kind of sounds like when a starter has gone bad and it clicks. Except, it does it repetitively until turned off. This doesn't happen if we turn on the fan but leave the AC off. Does it sound like the compressor went out? How can we troubleshoot it?
View 19 RepliesI've got a noticeable clicking that I can feel under my feet when I make a turn. It's not there all the time, seems to be worse on rainy days. My first thought was that it was the CV joint, but when I took it in today they put it on the lift and said that the boot is fine.
Could the joint still be bad if they can't see a problem with the boot? Should I take it somewhere else? It just seems pretty likely to be the CV joint, but I suppose it could be something else. I drive a 2007 Nissan Versa with about 48,000 miles.
There have been two instances where I have shut the car off and then it is dead when I try to restart. Not even any clicking. After it sits, it may start again. We replaced the battery, but the car wouldn't start again. Same symptoms... No clicking, or anything like that. Nissan dealer says the battery is fine and if it happens again, replace the battery because maybe it's faulty.
View 3 RepliesI have a 91 Nissan pick up that is just making a clicking noise upon trying to start it. I replaced the battery. The inside light works, radio works, dash clock works, but still just clicking upon trying to start. Is there a clutch safety switch that could cause this, or starter, or ???
View 8 RepliesI own a 1993 Nissan Sentra (2 Dr, SE, red:-). I've owned it for 17 years and has been a fantastic car. until March of this year when I had to replace the transmission at odometer reading of 121,xxx. Everything has been fine up until about a month ago when I returned to my car after working out at the gym...and it refused to start. No clicking, no hemming or hawwing, just nothing. The lights worked, the seat belt alarm worked, all dashboard lights worked. But absolutely no connection to anything. I tried moving the steering wheel, juggled the key, etc. but nothing.
So I called a tow truck. Thirty minutes later, he arrived, sat down in my driver's seat and magically, it started with no problems. It has happened again only once since that time, but I can never trust that she will start when I need to go to work, etc. I took it to a garage..they told me that they couldn't fix it or find anything wrong unless it was "in the throes" of not working. ...which is ridiculous because it could very possibly not start, have it towed, arrive at the garage, and she might start right up.
I have a 2015 Nissan Sentra. After running over a few pot holes my car has been making a clicking noise when I brake. What it could be?
View 4 Replies95 Nissan Quest, 145k It started with the oil light on and off. It was on when stop or slowing down and the light went off when accelerating over 25 or 30 mph. I did find there is an oil leaking somewhere. I planned to take it to garage for check up and the symptom disappeared. I used the car for short trip about two weeks and the symptom did not come back. I checked oil almost every day since then. Recently when I took a trip on highway, the light came on after about 30 miles. I stopped and checked oil. The oil was all right.
I started the car and light did not come on at the beginning. However, it came on (blinking) after 5 minutes of drive and I heard a clicking sound. I had it towed to a lcoal garage. The mechanic found a severe leak and need to replace ?gasket? or something like that, about a couple hours of work. He said the noise properly was from the lifter. However, when he checked the oil pressure, the pressure continued to drop to about 8 lb. He said the bearing properly worn and I will need a new engine. It properly not worth to replace the engine since it is 15-year old. But before I say good-bye to the car I just want to get a second opinion. Could it be something clog the oil pump screen? Would it be good to check that first? Is there anything I can do (within a reasonable cost) before declaring the death of the car?
Two wheel drive, small engine with two spark plugs per cylinder...clutch with five speed transmission. Over two hundred thousand miles on it. Drove it thirty miles on a rainy evening. Shut it off for about one hour and when I tried to restart, it just went click. Got towed thirty miles home. Replaced starter with brand new one and also new battery. Still nothing but click-click. Does start from clutch engagement when rolling. The trouble seems to be somewhere between the starter and the battery. What to do?
View 3 RepliesI own a 2002 Maxima with 102,000 miles. For a while, the car has been making a rattling noise while I am driving and pressing on the gas pedal. The noise occurs frequently whether starting from stopped position or accelerating while driving. The engine has checked out fine and a suggestion was made that I use better gas. I filled up at Chevron with '89, which is the grade I have always used but at discount gas stations. The noise however continues. What may be causing the rattling, clicking, tinny noise?
View 3 RepliesI recently replaced my wheel studs on my 2000 nissan xterra (front drives side). In the process I had to take apart my wheel assembly and put it all back together. Now that all the pieces are back together I took the car for a test drive. When I put it into 4 wheel drive 2 to 4 clicks with every rotation of the wheel. I also noticed buzzing noise while driving in 2 wheel drive. while quiet it sounded like the noise you would get as a child putting a baseball card in your bicycle wheel spokes. The noise is coming from the wheel that I just did work on and I cant figure out what is causing it.
View 4 RepliesI have an 97 Altima. When I hit on the brakes, it seems to be okay, but once I let the pedal go, there are clicking noise coming for the front wheels.
View 9 Replies