Nissan :: 2001 - Blown Engine - Oil Pressure Light On - Alternative Fuel?
Jul 15, 2013
I have an 01 nissan xterra and I think i need a new engine. There is a definite rattle at 2000 rpm, no power going uphill, and the oil pressure light comes on. So my question is, are there any alternative fuel, i.e. compressed natural gas, vegetable oil, ect conversions that I could do while the engine is being changed to make the vehicle more efficient and cost effective or am I just throwing good money at a bad idea?
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A few years back, we had the unfortunate luck of have the Crank Position Sensor fail in our 2004 Sante Fe. The sensor failed again 2 years later. Most recently, it broke down again, and acted the same as it did when the CPS went....upon deceleration and braking, it lost power and began to chug before it finally shut off. This time, the ECU 20 amp fuse blew, and the engine light came on.
It had been raining heavily the day prior, so we thought that the ECU or harness got wet. It sat for a few days, and when we started it with the new fuse, it ran just fine, with the exception of the engine light remaining on. Wife drove it to work tonight, and the fuse popped again. Given that the engine light is on, could the failure be due to an emissions control sensor or it's wiring shorting out?
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I have a 2001 Nissan Pathfinder. How do I get to the trouble codes & how do I remove check engine light?
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I had a Check Engine Light a couple months ago, and I took the car to the garage to have it checked out. They told me they got a Fuel Pressure Sensor malfunction code, and that the sensor had to be replaced. I did so myself, an it is ridiculously easy, and the car worked fine. I noticed the Check Engine Light blinked a couple of times while I was driving, but never got steady. A couple of days ago, it did. Out of a bad gut-feeling, I purchased a ODBII scanner, and I scanned the car myself. I got the same error code as the garage did, but the sensor should be fine.
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2004 Elantra sedan 2.0 ... When engine is started oil pressure light comes on an engine is knocking. Light goes out and knocking stops until you accelerate to a shift point. is it time to replace the engine. Oil is full. 144,000 miles
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I have a 2010 Versa with nitrogen filled tires and the tire pressure light always turns on when the weather gets cold. It did it last year too and I took it to the dealership and they checked the pressure on the tire and added a little nitrogen and the light turned off and stayed off. Now mind you, I've driven this car cross country, no tire problems, and haven't had any since then until the weather got cold again. What is going on? The dealership said they can reset the sensor on it but will charge me.
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I had my fuel filters changed at the dealership today on my '15, and then I bought fuel and headed home (70 miles). About half way home I got a "Low Fuel Pressure" message and a little while after that "Reduced Engine Power" along with the check engine light.
I pulled over to see if they did something like leave the drain open, thinking it might be sucking air. Of course it was dark and I could not see anything. However I did hear a buzzing sound and could feel a vibration when I touched the fuel line going into the top of engine filter.
While it is possible I got bad fuel, I suspect they did something wrong installing the filters. Even after cycling the fuel pump multiple times they had a hard time getting it started afterwards; I think they finally disconnected the top fuel line to bleed the air out.
I continued home and made it, but not sure what to do now; its 70 miles back to the dealer.
What is the most likely problem? Improper fuel filter installation or bad fuel?
Should I pull the filters in the morning see if there is something obvious like an out-of-place gasket? If so, top or bottom filter?
Is this a tow truck affair or should I drive 70 miles back to the dealer?
What the heck is the buzzing sound?
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Warning light appeared, pressure adjusted to 32 psig on all four tires, but light will not go out, even after several miles of driving. Are the tire valve stem Caps special for this feature? I have lost one and replaced it with another type I had.
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I need to check the fuel pressure to verify if my fuel pump is functioning. What is the procedure and PSI?
Assume that I open the valve on fuel rail with engine off, then connect pressure tester kit, put key in ignition to "on" position, then pump up to specified PSI???
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95 Nissan Quest, 145k It started with the oil light on and off. It was on when stop or slowing down and the light went off when accelerating over 25 or 30 mph. I did find there is an oil leaking somewhere. I planned to take it to garage for check up and the symptom disappeared. I used the car for short trip about two weeks and the symptom did not come back. I checked oil almost every day since then. Recently when I took a trip on highway, the light came on after about 30 miles. I stopped and checked oil. The oil was all right.
I started the car and light did not come on at the beginning. However, it came on (blinking) after 5 minutes of drive and I heard a clicking sound. I had it towed to a lcoal garage. The mechanic found a severe leak and need to replace ?gasket? or something like that, about a couple hours of work. He said the noise properly was from the lifter. However, when he checked the oil pressure, the pressure continued to drop to about 8 lb. He said the bearing properly worn and I will need a new engine. It properly not worth to replace the engine since it is 15-year old. But before I say good-bye to the car I just want to get a second opinion. Could it be something clog the oil pump screen? Would it be good to check that first? Is there anything I can do (within a reasonable cost) before declaring the death of the car?
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Replaced fuel pump and filter on our 2001 Nissan Quest. It started up for a few minutes but once it got hot it sputtered out. We sprayed some starter fluid in it. Still nothing.
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I picked up a Haynes manual for the engine/head removal. It has the procedure for 2003 pressure release by unplugging the fuel pump and running until it dies. Unfortunately the car does not run. I do not know what to do now.
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I brought my Prius, 128,000 miles, into the dealer with the check engine light on. Runs fine, and checked the gas cap. Toyota dealer said they need to replace 4 fuel injectors, replace oxygen sensor, and clean the throttle body. Check engine light needs to be off so I can pass emission test.
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2001 Ranger, 108,000 miles, good regular maintenance per the Ford Schedule. 4.0L manual trans.
I changed the fuel filter 20,000 miles ago. This has been a recurring issue anytime my fuel level was low, about 1/4 tank or less, and when the truck was warmed up, hot. The fix in the past was to add fuel and let the truck sit for awhile. Now, today I drove home for lunch and when I tried to start the truck to return to work, it wouldn't start.
Same conditions, low fuel level and it was warmed up. The engine will turn over and start to run with ether in the air box, so it's definitely fuel related. A fuel pressure gauge on the Schrader valve got a zero reading, not even a flicker, and no residual pressure after shut off.
Could this be only a fuel pressure regulator issue? Or should I prepare to replace the fuel pump? Is there a fuse that might be blown?
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I own a 2001 Jetta 1.8t with Gti front end. So I was driving downtown the other day and I bottomed out really hard and cracked my oil pan. I didn't realize it was cracked and leaking so I drove it home, drove fine with no issues at all. When I got home I parked it and went inside and in the morning I came out and tuned it on for maybe ten seconds. It made a really loud ticking sound that was constant and oil pressure was almost all the way down. So I shut it off and looked and saw the oil pan. I fixed the oil pan yesterday and started it up and it sounded really good and drives fine. But I've been hearing a pretty decently loud ticking sound when everything's up to temp and warmed up. The ticking is only at an idle and it drives like it use to just sounds bad at an idle. Some people think it's my oil pump and tensioner, some people thing I ruined the turbo and possibly internals.
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2001 F150 5.4 Auto ... Truck was running excellent. Engine light and overdrive light begins to blink and it acts like its running out of fuel or water in gas. Baring made it home. Cleared the code and it comes back. Transmission seems fine.
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If after you shutdown a engine, and a fuel injector is leaking. Is there any sign to look for, that can pin point this problem.
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I have had no luck finding an F-150 without the Chrome package. The side bars that come with that are next to useless. Assuming I order a truck, what aftermarket sidebars are good for stepping out on? My dad cant use the factory ones. BTW, I curse the engineer that took the grab handle from the driver side on new F-150s.
To clarify, I'm looking for an ecoboost, 157in wheelbase S-Crew, 3.55 rear and most amenities sans leather. I don't want the chrome deal because of the bars and that I can't be showing up on a farm looking like a rap star with self control issues... Some chrome is ok, but for crying out loud, who thought this package was a good idea?
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I have a 2001 F-250 XLT 4x4 with V10. Truck will not start. No fuel pressure. My Haynes manual does not show ignition or fuel delivery wiring. I have found the relay box behind the radio/dash. I need a wiring diagram and info on which relay is the fuel pump relay. Want to know so I can jump relay to see if fuel pump is okay.
Truck had sat for a few weeks being ran very little, so had to jump start yesterday. Ran for about 15 min, the shut off, re-started and ran for 30 min. Truck sat for about 1.5 hours then would not start. Charged battery overnight and it is 100%.
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I have a '13 with 11,000 miles that the low fuel pressure light has come on a few times this winter. I took it to the dealer and told them what was going on. They only changed the fuel filters and didn't investigate any farther. The paper work also said it was the low fuel light and not the low fuel pressure light...
It was fine for a few days but then it happened again. The fuel pump would make some noise as well. The light comes on and the fuel pump makes noise when the temp is close to 0 and I accelerate to highway speeds. I am running winter blend fuel and running the Ford anti gel so the fuel shouldn't be gelling.
I stopped in at the dealer again about a week ago and the service manager wouldn't send anyone out to listen to the noise. He set up an appointment for today. Today it was -8 when I dropped it off at the dealer and the light didn't come on and there wasn't any noise. It is supposed to be cold overnight so they are going to keep it to see if they can get it to act up again. They called into Ford but no answer from them yet.
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Vehicle: 2000 Chevy Express 3500 passenger van 5.7L
History: Low fuel pressure when starting. If the van sat longer than 24 hours it wouldn't start without a squirt of starting fluid. I suspected it was the fuel pump but didn't get around to changing it. My wife put in "extra" starting fluid one afternoon and tried to start the van - there was a small explosion which blew up the air cleaner housing and started a fire. She put the fire out with an extinguisher. The fire was restricted to the air cleaner media and housing and burned for about 45 seconds.
Repairs: I cleaned up the extinguisher material and replaced filter housing and media. I checked the fuel pressure at the fuel rail - pressure gauge read zero. I checked the relay and all of the fuses - everything was in good shape. I looked for a fuel cutoff switch but the Chevy tech I talked to said there isn't one on that year of van - he recommended that I disconnect the battery for 5 minutes to reset the system. I did that too. Still no fuel pressure. Replaced the fuel pump and fuel filter. Still no fuel pressure.
Current Status: The engine will crank and if I put starting fluid in the van will turn over and run as long as there is starting fluid. When the accelerant is gone the engine stops running. Again, it will crank but there is no fuel pressure at the rail. The manual says the pressure should be 85 lbs with the key on and engine off and then 45 - 55 lbs running.
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