I've got a 99 Nissan Avinir that runs good (until) you try an rev past 2500 revs, the car losses power until it revs again under 2500, its like its automated to do this or is having intake problems, it was running good before stored it, I put in a new petrol pump, it had been siting for a while. It runs fine under 2500 rpm no problems but wont go over 2500 rpm.
View 19 RepliesI've got a 2008 Subaru Outback, manual transmission. When I come to a light, I may put the car in 1st gear with the clutch depressed while I wait to proceed. Then, all by itself, the accelerator revs up to about 2500 rpm for a brief moment. Then it comes down, rests for a second and then does the same thing all over again. The only thing that will make it stop is if I put the stick in neutral and release the clutch. Any way to cure this?
View 3 RepliesWhen the engine is in gears say 1-3 (doesn't seem to work in neutral or park) when the engine rev's to about 2500 - 3000 RPM there's a metallic vibrating noise that almost sounds like a buzzing/chattering sound. When you reach over 3000, it goes away.
Here's the curve ball - it stops doing this when the engine is really warm. It only seems to do it when cold or it's been sitting a while. So - it's limited to an RPM range between gears 1-3, it goes away when it's warm.
I am inclined to think this is related to engine mounts... And here's why. It seems to only happen when in gear and we know that the engine changes it's pitch/stance when in different gears versus in neutral/park. So I think when it's in gears 1-3, the engine is tilted a bit and something is coming into contact with something (maybe my strut bar) more than it used to due to more slop/movement from my worn out engine mounts. As to why it goes away when the engine is really hot (driven for an hour or so) is because maybe whatever it is that's coming into contact with something else is (perhaps a hose and its clamp?) is much more pliable while warm and clears whatever obstruction it was hitting while cold? (a lot of speculation and creative thinking here).
Anyway - after the engine is super warm and I've been driving it I cannot for the life of me get it to do it... It rev's super smooth and not a hint of any bad sound.... 2011 2.0T Limited ....
This is what I have done I have 5.4 168,000 on motor . I have codes p0401 p0701 p0704 and some others .I can run truck for about 15min and it starts to lose power .I can't go over 1500 rpm . I have changed egr cleaned throttle body checked for vacum leaks changed the dpfe . new plugs . I have had a misfire code on number 1 but that code has stopped . I have put new fuel filter .I have a cheap scanner I use and it probably won't give me what I want also I changed down stream 02 sensors .
View 14 RepliesShort version is that I just did the EBPV delete with new pedestal and turbo exhaust outlet and put a new turbo middle cartridge in as mine had blown a seal and possibly broken the shaft. Once I got it all put together, I took it for a test drive and it was building 20PSI like it used to but I didn't have the accumulator and turbo mated up fully so I had a leak there.
I corrected that and now don't get any boost until I get to about 2500RPM and then it only builds to about 10PSI. I've double and triple checked all my connections, boots, etc. and everything is tight on the intake, intercooler, up-pipes and collector, exhaust and the spider, I can't see or feel any problems there. I tried disconnecting the MAP sensor and it might be a little better but not even close to normal.
Tried disconnecting the red line from the wastegate and plugging it with no difference. I'm stuck, and frustrated. I do have AE, watching the MGP looks like the MAP sensor is working. I feel like I'm overlooking something simple but I just can't figure out what it is...
Truck sat for 1 1/2 years. Changed filter and put in 15 gallons of fuel. Had maybe 1/2 gallon old fuel in tank. MAYBE. Fixed fuel line because it wasnt getting fuel and it fired right up and idles great.
Truck has no acceleration over 2500 (or so) RPMs but idles fine. This is depending on how hard you push the pedal of course.
If you drive the truck normally like a grandmother it seems to be ok. As long as you dont need a passing gear or need to accelerate more than 1/4 pedal
If you try to push the pedal to get the next higher gear it will sometimes hit the gear fine. IF you floor the truck it will totally lose acceleration. Then the truck will run like crap even slow for a good while. But then it will clear up for the low end. Then you can drive it normally. Then when I think I can test the upper end I get the same thing again.
03 Xterra makes whining noise at 2200-2500 rpm. Noise goes away outside this range. At 3000 rpm sounds like tachy cable rattles. Have had Nissan check trans, diff, muffler. No luck.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2002 Nissan Frontier with a non supercharged 3.3L v6. The truck is a crew cab, long bed and 4x4. I have had this truck since I bought it used in 2004 with 26k miles. The truck now has 196k miles and I have done a little modifying to make it a bit more off road capable.
I have done all the work to the truck myself, until last fall when I finally broke down and took it to a dealer, who was not able to find my problem, but I will get to that...First of all, the truck has steel bumpers, a winch, a tool box, onboard air system and large tires, all of which make the little 3.3L work hard. However, for three years since I quit making modifications, the truck ran perfectly cool and the temp needle never once went above the normal operating position, even through thick sand at the beach, mountain trails and towing heavy trailers, until last summer.
Late last summer, on 90+ degree days, I noticed the temp needle would start riding above normal when I had the AC on. It didnt matter if I was on the highway, the city streets or idling in the driveway. When I turned off the AC the needle went back to normal. This started happening occasionally at first (once every 2 weeks) then towards fall it started happening more frequently, almost every 90 degree day. Soon after I noticed the problem, it would happen even with the AC off, but not get quite so hot.
After a few weeks of this, I started chasing the problem. I replaced the radiator cap, the thermostat (tested the old one and tested the new one before installing,) I took the radiator to a rad shop and had it boiled and flow tested, I replaced both coolant temp sensors, and then finally the water pump. When none of those repairs made a difference I built new radiator fan shrouds and that made no difference. At this point I was starting to get discouraged so I borrowed a scan tool from a friend and drove around for a few weeks with it plugged in. I was reading live temperature readings of the coolant and verified that the gauge was working correctly.
The truck ran about 200 degrees with the AC off most of the time, then, when I turned the AC on, no matter if I was sitting in park or driving on the highway, the temp would steadily climb until it got to 222 degrees and I would shut off the truck, at that point the needle was near the danger zone and according to several nissan dealership, the highest normal operating temp is 204, but it should stay around 195. At 205 degrees, the needle would start to move above the normal position, so the gauge seems to be fine. As summer turned into fall, the truck started running cooler as the days began to drop into the 70's. I finally got fed up with chasing my tail and took the truck to a dealer with my main concern being a blown head gasket or cracked head.
The dealership inspected the head and tested the coolant for hydrocarbons and said that the head and gasket are not the issue. They advised that the only other thing it could be is my fan clutch. After that dealership visit, the days were cool so I drove the truck all winter without changing the fan clutch. Then, 2 weeks ago, on a 70 degree day, I hooked up my truck to an empty trailer (maybe 1000lbs) and towed it 15 miles. When towing up hill with the AC on, the temp needle started moving. I immediately went to napa and replaced my fan clutch. Confident that was the issue, I drove the truck to the mountains for a camping trip last weekend. While climbing the hills at 40mph and about 2500 rpm, the temp needle climbed to the near danger zone.
I have a 1997 Nissan Altima that I just barely got and it has started to show signs of trouble.
Sometimes when I put the vehicle into drive and step on the gas the car will not move and instead the engine will rev.I'll put the car back into park and then into drive and it'll work fine.
I checked the ATF, which was incredibly low and refilled it. The engine oil was also very low, which was refilled. The problem still persists. So I decided to add a bottle of Fuel Injector Cleaner to the gas tank.
I took the car for a short drive and nothing happened aside from the fact that the Check Engine light now comes on and off. The car also idles between 1000-1500 rpms.
Anytime I run the RPM passed 2300-2500 I get this high frequency squeal. I don't seam to lose any performance, but very annoying. Is this the turbo having troubles. It's directly related to the RPM'S. Other that that, the truck runs great....
View 14 RepliesWhen the car is cold it runs fine. After driving for 10-15 minutes the transmission slips, while driving the engine revs and then engages again.I have only noticed the disengaging/engaging as speeds less than 40 MPH. When the car is in neutral and placed into drive it may take several seconds to engage which happens about 60% of the time. Could this be a sensor failure or time for a new transmission?
View 4 RepliesProblems with my 2001 F250 4r100 transmission. Transmission will only shift to 2nd gear when throttle is feathered at @2500 rpm. All other gears shift perfectly. This problem is consistent.
View 10 RepliesThis is just a basic Sentra 2.0L with a CVT, about 80k miles.
I park on a very very slight downhill grade.. very slight.. almost flat.. The car starts just fine, put it in reverse, push the pedal to the floor, engine revs up to about 1500 rpms (I'm assuming it has a limiter on it because it won't go past 1500) and the car sits still. Release the accelerator, floor it again, car moves about 6", repeat a few times and eventually I can back out. That ain't normal.
It does a similar thing when in Drive, except it will actually start moving but very slowly. So slow that I'm afraid I'm going to get T-boned if I try to make a left turn. Once I get up to about 10mph it starts to feel somewhat normal.
Once it starts moving it doesn't seem to have any trouble maintaining highway speeds. The engine might be running a little faster than normal, but to be honest I'm not sure if it is or not. Pulls up some pretty significant hills at 60mph at around 3k RPM.. which seems reasonable.
What it could be? Transmission is still under warranty so I'm hoping it's that.. I don't really have the $ to throw at this thing right now. By the way - it's not throwing any codes or anything.
I have a 1999 Ford F-350. I have six codes from my truck. The codes are P0237 P1119 P1690 P0500 P0603 P0344. My truck runs, but likes to stall out on me for no reasons at times. The other problem I am having is between 1,800-2,500 rpms, she shutters or pops.
View 7 RepliesI have had a problematic navigation system that loses it way some times (loss of GPS signal). However it worked for sometime without problems till I dent my rear left side and had to be in the shop. I guess they disconnected the batteries and now the unit has stopped working. This is the relevant VCDS output. Most importantly I checked the adv measure feature to find the following statuses
CD ROM OK
GPS Antennae OK
Available Satellites 8
Satellites in view 0
GPS Status None
This was a clear day and so the unit is not picking up the satellites. However VCDS output shows no faults or anything.
Address 37: Navigation
Labels: 3D0-919-887.lbl
Part No: 3D0 919 887 A
Component: NAVIGATION 9968
Coding: 0400000
Shop #: WSC 02134 444 59226
VCID: 326BD7F1AE43028E5D3-5140
No fault code found
[Code] .....
What the heat losses are approximately kwh from the transmission and inverter are. I understand this will vary with speed and driving conditions but reasonable estimate will do.
View 3 RepliesIf I tow only 3000 lbs my truck has a hard time making it up even semi steep hills, how do I go about trouble shooting this?
View 8 RepliesI have a 2006 RSX base model. got 134,000miles on it. recently it starts to making whining noise when the rpm gets to 2500-3000rpm. The car also started to have the cricket chirping like sound. Had the oil changed, tune up already. The sound seems to get louder, and the car seems to have less power. Especially when going up a slope you can hear the engine revving, and car don't want to move. Before this car would go up these slope like it was nothing. My brother say the sound is coming from the engine.
View 1 RepliesI recently purchased a 2006 Chevy 2500HD pickup truck. The previous owner installed what looks like a power seat from a Ford. It's a very nice seat, probably much better that the Chevy seat but even though power is wired up doesn't work. Where can I find the wiring diagram for both the truck and the seat? The problem is the seat has been adjusted for a slightly taller person than myself which I may be able to overcome with a thin cushion and seat back cushion for myself. However my wife and my daughter are both shorter than me so the seat will need adjustment for them to safely and comfortably to drive it.
View 3 RepliesI bought a 99 f150 lariat 4x4 with the 5.4 from a guy who said that it needed an oil pump. He said it lost pressure coming into work, he turned it off and coasted in. I towed it home and replaced the battery and bought a new oil pressure sending unit just to be sure it wasn't that.
Those things are so hard to get to. Finally I got an oxygen sensor tool on it and it was only hand tight. Rather than take it off I just tightened it up and started the truck. The dash guage read normal but the truck was idling so badly. Steady at about 1000 rpm and tooth rattling. 1500 with the foot on the pedal it evens out but still rough. Not sure if this was a good idea but I took it around the block. No power under 2500 rpm. Barely moving even. Just felt like there was no throttle response at all and again very rough.
Got it home and parked it. Now I'm wondering what to do to fix the Idle and power problem. Where to start would be great. And input on the oil pressure sending unit too. I suppose I'll have to get under there and replace it at some point anyways.
MT 2500 Where are you I've got a weird one. 99 Chevy 5.7 dully dump truck. The engine cuts out while driving at 3000rpms only. If you keep your foot in it it goes away at 3200. Does it in any gear(auto). Also, stopped and in park, it will do it at 4000rpms. Acts like a rev limiter. Fuel pressure does not change (60-62psi) when this happens, does it in open or closed loop. I disconnected the maf and no change. I've installed new cap, rotor, plugs, wires, coil, module(all original with 165K), no change. Runs sensational until 3K rpms.
View 14 Replies