Our little pick-up truck has 206K plus miles on it and when it rains, it doesn't start and after the rain goes away, the truck is very jittery and jerky. Is this something easy to fix? Is it something that can be fixed? Nissan 1997 S...
View 5 RepliesI have a 2001 F150 Supercrew that cranks but will not start after a hard rain. The mechanic checked the gem module and the fuse box, the gem module looked good but the fuse box had some corrosion he thought from water so he replaced the fuse box and had a body shop reseal the windshield. The first time it rained it started right up but after the next rain it would not start. I went out 12 hours later and it fired right up. I wonder if I would be better off taking to a Ford dealer. What to do next.
View 2 RepliesTwo years ago a purchased a 2011 Nissan Frontier mid-sized pick-up, V-6, A/T, 4WD, long-bed (6’), crew cab four door. I drove it for a little over a year and it was all good, then I put an 800 lb. pop-up cab-over camper on it. When folded down, the top of the camper is about one foot above the top of the truck cab, with about a four inch space between the bottom of the cab-over and the top of the cab, and with the cab-over extending over the back two-thirds of the cab, so the whole thing creates quite a bit of wind resistance.
After installing the camper, I noticed a front-to-back jerking motion when driving the truck at highway speeds, sort of like when topping a steep hill and beginning to descend, some vehicles will lurch front-to-back until the drive train synchs up. It was cyclic – jerk 7 or 8 times, smooth out, then do it again. It wasn’t bad enough to cause vehicle control issues. I took it to the dealer and the initial diagnosis was that the automatic trans. was going in and out of lock-up. Then I drove the service manager around in it with his laptop scope plugged in to the engine, and he said he couldn’t see anything wrong with the drive train. He suggested running the rear tires at maximum pressure of 44 lbs., which I tried but which didn’t work.
I then had airbags installed to beef up the rear suspension, but that didn’t work. Finally I built a fairing/wind deflector and installed it on top of the cab, sloping at a 45 degree angle from the trailing edge of the windshield to the leading edge of the top of the camper. That didn’t work either, which surprised me because I had first experimented with the concept by duct-taping a sheet of cardboard in the same position as the fairing would ultimately be installed, and that seemed to work. The same jerking sensation can be felt when overdrive is engaged and when it is locked out, and it also occurs at slower speeds when decelerating. Is there anything I can do to smooth out the ride?
About 2 weeks ago my 1997 Buick Park Ave (115,000 miles) began running bad during a heavy rain storm. It was running fine. Then all of a sudden at a stop light the motor hesitated and wanted to stall. I nursed the gas peddle and limped home and turned the car off. The car hesitated and sputtered all the way home as if I was running out of gas.The next day the car would not start. It turned over but would not start. I tried starting the car for three days. My mechanic friend later diagnosed the car and stated the computer was not functioning correctly. He replaced the computer. The new computer seemed to correct the problem.
The car ran great for the next 2 weeks. Yesterday, it was raining hard while I drove the car about 150 miles without any problem. Then suddenly again the motor started running badly. Again, the motor wanted to stall and hesitate as if I was running out of gas. I limped home again. This morning I tried to start the car without any luck. In addition to installing a new computer, In the last 2 months I have changed all the fuel injectors and installed new spark plugs.I have also changed the fuel pump and repaired the fuel tank. My mechanic say the cam sensor and crank sensor are operating correctly. There is spark coming from the coil packs and to the spark plugs. I do not want to randomly change parts.
I have a 2004 Nissan Xterra that has been chugging for a few months now. The problem is intermittent and only happens about once or twice a week when driving, but when it starts to chug (feels like it is running out of gas, jerky, will not accelerate) it is unsafe to drive on the freeway. I have taken it to several places and no one can figure out the problem. It was pulling two codes the speed sensor on the transmission PO500 - and the knock sensor code was coming up along with that. I had the speed sensor replaced twice and checked the wiring. We replaced the fuel filter, checked the fuel pump with a fuel gage and fuel lines, replaced the distributor cap and rotor, put in a new MAF sensor and still nothing is working to remedy the chugging. My last stop is replacing the knock sensor for $600, the problem is that the Nissan Mechanics (I visited two dealerships in different cities) told me not to replace this as it would not cause chugging. Several other mechanics around town tell me that they are wrong and I do need to replace it.
View 13 RepliesI have a 1997 Nissan Maxima. The past few weeks, it sounds like it's getting harder and harder to start. Last week, it wouldn't turn over, and had somebody jump me. I took it to Pep Boys and they tested the battery and alt and said both were fine. Tonight, it wouldn't start again, I had somebody try to jump me and no sounds/no activity. About an hour later, I went back to get my car and it was able to start..
View 6 RepliesI bought a 1997Nissan Maxima from my cousin and as he tried teaching me how to drive stick I stalled and the car did not want to start back up we were able to pop start it it to get back to my house. I am unsure whether it is the ignition switch or the relay because the car will start sometimes after I keep trying to start the engine for a while...
View 18 RepliesLately, I've noticed that after rain, passenger side carpet is getting wet. what I should be looking for to fix this. I can say for certainty that it happens only during/after rain.
Nissan Maxima 2000 GLE It has a sunroof
Last May I had the distributor replaced in my 2001 Nissan Xterra. Since it was replaced my car has shut off while I am driving three different times, separated by weeks to months, and only in heavy rain storms. When the car does shutoff it takes up to 15 minutes until it will start up again. In each case, once the car restarted it did not shutoff again. I recently noticed a correlation to heavy rain because I did not have any problems all summer long ( I live in Oregon where it never rains in the summer) and then last week in a heavy rainstorm the car shutoff while I was waiting at a red light.
View 4 RepliesThe car won't start. It sounded like the battery was dying when we tried to start it the other day. We went and got a new battery, but it didn't work. It has a new altenator, new starter, new timing chain and it's also had a transmission rebuild all within the last 4 years. I'm not really sure when the spark plugs were last replaced. Could this be the issue?
View 5 Repliestonight at 1am: I put the key in and turn the ignition, no start, no click, no dashboard warning lights, no nothing. headlights don't turn on at allearlier in the afternoon - didn't check headlights, but no start, no click, no dashboard warning lights. Sliding 1 key into the ignition gave me a somewhat steady buzzing sound from the car, the kind you get to indicate something electrical is happening (I guess that's what it's for.
I wish I were mechanically inclined.) Sliding the other key into the ignition gave me a much more sporadic buzzing sound. Like metal wasn't making contact, when it should. A few hours previous in the morning - car wasn't starting as described above. Someone pushes the car back from the front so we can make way for another car, to come in and give me a jump. I put the car in neutral, and notice that the dashboard lights and buzzer is on, so on a hunch, I try to start the car in neutral and it starts right up. I drive it to the home driveway, no problem.
2 days ago, I bought the car. A 97 nissan sentra. What it could be? Again, never a clicking sound when starting the car to indicate dead battery. I'm familiar with that.
I need to have my DSG checked out.. Extremely jerky starting out in first gear when very hot out and engine warmed up --most noticeable when just easy on the accelerator. Need to get the ok for mechanotronic replacement. Who to trust for a reliable job and evaluation of the problem.
View 3 RepliesSo, I just hopped in my car ready to go to work, and my "exhaust" light came on. I drove it a block, and it seems very "jittery". I decided not to risk driving it, and am getting a lift with my wife.
View 5 RepliesSo I took my car in for the recall last night and also told my service advisor that my transmission has been a bit jerky lately. Kind of felt like the clutch was slipping when you start going from dead stop, and clunk here, clunk there.
After their diagnostics it seems to be the Mechatronics unit, apparently about 50% of our cars had the issue. The part would have to be ordered from VW due to it being made per VIN and is on back order. They didn't have the reacall parts in stock so I had to leave my car there. Stuck in a bright red Jetta now.
I purchased a 2012 Subaru Forester 2.5X Premium (automatic transmission) in November 2011 with 4 miles on it. Since the get-go it has had issues, but we thought that some of them might work themselves out as we broke the car in (which we were religious about). At the first oil change, we told the dealership about the issues we were experiencing and got the expected "the computer doesn't say anything is wrong" and "we couldn't replicate the problems" excuses. We were told to bring it back if the problems continued. Well, they've gotten worse. Here are what we are experiencing:
- Erratic shifting. I commute from the mountains to the city every day, so I need power from the car. Sometimes, when I'm heading down a hill and I tap the gas slightly to give myself a little boost, the car will suddenly downshift, even though it was sitting at 2500 RPM and didn't need to get any extra power beyond more fuel. Going up the hill is worse, as if you are not actively accelerating (including if you are trying to maintain a constant speed), it will upshift on you and you lose all power, so it will need to downshift to make up for this. It does this constantly for the entire drive home. Everyone who has driven this car in the mountains has experienced this.
- Jerky transmission. When the car shifts, it is super harsh and tends to throw you forward or back. Even when on flat ground it shifts roughly.
- Sluggish acceleration. If I give the car any more gas than I usually do, it hesitates before going anywhere. One day I needed to get over on the highway fast and floored it - it took the car about 2 seconds to respond. Then, yesterday, we were turning on to a highway from a side road and I tried to accelerate (gas about 1/2 way to the floor) and it didn't respond at all for about 5 seconds and the "Check Engine" and the traction control lights started flashing at me. We were on a paved road with no gravel, water, ice, etc and the traction control light began flashing on the straight, not while we were turning. There are also days when it feels like there is an anchor tied to the car and it just doesn't want to give me any umph at all.
- Rough starts. This is the really weird one as there is no rhyme or reason as to when it happens. Some times it takes the car several revolutions to turn over. Oddly, it's never on the really cold (under 20 degrees F) days, but it has happened when it is ~35 degrees and a couple of times when I have started it in the middle of the day to grab lunch and it is ~65 degrees out.
- Running rough. This usually happens after a rough start, but can also happen at other times. It just idles very rough and won't calm down. These are the days I have the worst time with the shifting issues.
I had a 2001 Forester that threw a rod, which forced me to get this car. Everyone who has driven both agrees that the 2001 was quicker, easier to drive, and had more gumption than the 2012. It also had less problems even though I purchased it used in 2005 (until the whole rod-throwing thing, of course). I really want to love my 2012 Forester, but I am so upset that, for the first time in my life I have a new car, and it runs terribly.
Noticed the lights jittery or bouncy when you go over bumps or imperfections on the roads. This cannot be right?
View 7 RepliesI leased a (non F-Sport) '15 GS about four months ago. Loving the GS so far except for one thing - the highway ride is rather busy and noisy, which does not at all suit the character of this car. I specifically avoided F-Sport package because I wanted a luxury car ride. My previous car, BMW 535i, had way quieter and smoother ride in spite of having run-flats. Go figure.
Can I get meaningful improvement by upgrading the OEM tires? The GS came with Bridgestore Turanza ER33. I'm thinking about replacing them with Pirelli Cinturato P7 All Season Plus, which gets a lot of praise in Clublexus.
I purchased a 2014 Toyota Corolla Le Eco Plus last May. The car rode FINE for a few months, but then I began to notice that the ride feels completely rough/harsh. It's almost like a jittery feeling. After researching I've found reviews that said "the Corolla's ride is harsh and unpleasant," but to me it feels like it's gradually getting worse. That has me thinking something is wrong with the car itself, not just that the Corolla in general rides rough. I've taken it in to the dealership multiple times, but they say nothing is wrong. I honestly don't know what to do. What could it be? Struts? Shocks? I mean, it's BRAND NEW.
View 19 RepliesI used to wonder if my engine was running when stopped at a light and marvel at the smooth ride of my 2008 LS460L.
Lately I have been feeling a rough idle when stopped and the ride feels jittery on smooth roads.The odd thing is the car idles smoother with the air conditioner running or when it is off. It is very noticeable when off and seems to be apparent when the car is fully warmed up .
The jittery road thing occurs both when the air is on and off. I bought the car CPO and it had the valve recall work performed (saw that was one possible cause).
I have an 02 extended cab F150 and whenever it rains the rear window leaks (it doesnt have a slider, it's solid) and the half doors leak too... i sealed the back window with caulk to try and fix it and it worked for about 2 storms and then it started to leak again. The side doors leak at the seam where they meet the front doors... Should i order new seals for the windows? or is there a simpler way to do it that isnt as expensive..
View 9 RepliesI'm going crazy here with this strange noise on my '01 Screw. EVERYTIME it starts to rain - and I mean immediately upon starting to rain - I get a strange clicking and popping sound that is unmistakably near the passenger rear door, up high, almost in the corner of the cab. Today my wife and I were driving and it starting to rain and I saw her start cocking her head and I said, "Do you hear it too?" She confirmed where it is coming from, but I just can't figure it out. My truck has a cap on it, but it doesn't seem like it is related to that. It is ANY kind of rain too. Precipitation=sound. Really odd.
View 9 Replies