have a 1992 nissan 240sx; it shakes when i started the engine or when it idles or @ a complete stop. runs well on freeway & was able to drive home. mechanic thinks it's probably cylinders not firing well over phone prognosis. it also sounds like there may be a leak. it stalled a few times & had to restart the car. no problems restarting. have not brought it in for diagnosis.
View 3 RepliesI drive a 1992 Nissan Primera 2.0 slx wagon, automatic. The engine starts at normal rpm, about 1500 then, with my foot off the accelerator, it begins to rise until, after 3 minutes or so it's at 2500 and rising. I should also point out that recently the car's been overheating after a short drive. I'm going to flush the coolant system and replace the fluid. Are these two faults related?
View 4 RepliesI have a 2000 f250 superduty gas v10 6.8L . I bought this truck about 4 months ago. Now when I take off from a complete stop the truck shakes up until second gear, shifts fine all the way up until the last gear it looses power "loosing power" i mean i can put my foot into the pedal and it takes forever to climb speed meanwhile the RPM'S never skyrocket like it the transmission was slipping if anything a couple times the RPM's dropped are stayed the same then as i take my foot off of the pedal once i have my desired speed sometimes not always the truck will give me a little jerk Also Just the other day I was driving on the highway and decide to put her on cruise control at about 70mph, I set the cruise control and the RPM gauge was just over 2,000 and the tach was fluctuating up and down about 1/16 of an inch. I been reading alot of forums and what I got out of them is it maybe pointing me to a misfire maybe the coil packs? Plugs?It's not something major like a transmission rebuilt.
View 6 RepliesI have a Nissan Murano 2004 SL AWD.I got the car last year and since I got the car, my gas pedal was not working properly during certain condition. You would think my car is haunted, believe me!
The main problem is: after driving for 30 minutes, when I come to a complete stop, my gas pedal does not respond directly. I have to press the gas pedal all the way and release it for the car to start driving.The more I do this process after the problem occurs, the more time the gas pedal will respond after I completely floor it. For example, after 15 minutes of such problem occurring, I need about 2.5 seconds for the gas pedal to work after flooring it. After 30 min of the problem occurring, I need about 3 sec. to 3.5 sec. and on a hill, the respond time takes even longer!
Now here is the funny part...I have notice that whenever it's hot outside, the problem with my gas pedal does not occur after 30 minutes but it will occur after less time, maybe after 15 to 20 minutes of driving.When it's colder like during the winter the problem will occur after 40 minutes of driving.
Here is another funny thing. When my gas pedal start acting up, if I go to park my car and turn my engine off for about... 5 to 10 minutes, less or more, the gas pedal starts working again for the next 10 to 15 minutes before acting up again.
I really want to fix it.It's not bothering me sometimes but today I was at a red light on a hill and my car just did not accelerate at all for about 3 seconds while my car was sliding down and people beeping at me. It's really getting me irritated!
i have a 96 240 w/ sr20det 5 spd. Problem comes and goes. When at a stop in neutral idles between 1300 rpm down to 0 and almost stalling, then when i take off ( and in any gear) there is noticeable lag and engine wont rev past 5200 rpm like there is a rev limiter or governor. then the problem will just go away for a while. I've only tried cleaning the IAC valve.
View 9 RepliesI have a 1995 Nissan Altima GXE 4cyl and it has been rough idling for a while now but now I have this new problem. While I drive the car and after it has warmed up, the car shuts off when I'm at a stop. When I'm at speed, it runs just fine and smooth and I only have problems at stops. I then restart the car just fine and continue driving. I'm having to keep doing this over and over. What could be the cause or causes for this?
View 4 RepliesI have a 1987 automatic Nissan Sentra XE- two barrel carburetor, mileage 212,880. The car has one major problem that is going to get me hit driving it in rush hour. Most mechanics will not touch the car due to being carburetor.
Let me explain: the car idles real rough at times, hesitates at stop signs and red lights, about stalls out on me when I press the gas pedal to go or when I start to make a left or right turn. However, other times the car has little to no hesitation and idles perfectly. I have not been able to come up with a good a pattern with this problem.
I have replaced, fuel pump & filter, spark plug wires, coil, distributor, ecu computer, ran sea foam through the fuel system and have replaced many vacuum hoses.
I have a 2006 PT Cruiser with approximately 94K miles on it. This year I started a 2-hr round trip commute every week day, so the car went from getting ~200 mi. a week on it to ~700 mi. a week. I bought it used ~4 years ago with 28K mi. on it.
2 months ago, the car started shaking between the speeds of 50 and 60 mph. Not sure how to best describe it - kind of a shake/jerk, like someone was jerking the car forward very quickly and repeatedly. It seemed to be strongest in the front of the car on the passenger side, although you could feel it throughout the car. I took it to a repair shop. They balanced the tires, but that only very mildly worked. Then they changed the front axles (said there was a lot of play in them). They replaced the brakes, rotors, and timing belt at as well, for unrelated reasons. With new front axles, the shake disappeared, but the car has been idling incredibly rough ever since I got it back. You can see the steering wheel vibrate and feel it in the seat when I start the car or am stopped with it running. This never used to happen.
Additionally, the shake has now returned, but from the driver's side of the front of the car now. Again, it's between 50 and 60 mph, although it's slowly creeping up into the 60-65 range also. It's stronger if I'm pushing the gas down more, like when going up a steep hill. If I'm going downhill at 50-60mph, I don't notice it or barely notice it. On flat ground it's noticeable, uphill it's becoming severe.
We took our car in for a regular oil change and to get the 60K belt work done. While in the car they discovered that the transmission was slipping and that we were missing one of the motor mounts. They did the belt work and the oil change and then put some fluid in our car hoping that would buy us some time with our transmission. To save us time and money they said we could wait a little while on the motor mount. When I drove it home the whole car shifted and shook whenever we would come to a stop and then it would shake while idling. I called our mechanic back and they said to bring it in and that fixing the rear motor mount should take care of the problem. While back at the mechanic for the motor mount they discovered that the transmission additive had not worked and we needed a new one.
We bought a rebuilt one and now we are still left with a car that shakes when we are idling. We have had the car in two or three times after the transmission was put in for them to try and fix the issue. They have done everything short of removing the engine without any luck. Just to be sure they covered every possible angle, they just gave us new spark plugs, ignition wires, distributor rotor, distributor cap and PCV valve, but it didn't seem to do anything. The car shakes the most while idling in Drive, somewhat less in Park, somewhat less than that in Neutral and not at all in Reverse. The shaking gets even stronger if the A/C or defroster is turned on. It seems to be even worse when stopped on a downward slope. It has been several months of this and the shaking is incredibly annoying. Is there anything else our mechanic could look into?
I have a 2001 Nissan Altima with a few miles on it.(217,734) The A.C. works great while it is on, but it will stop working then start back up. Out of frustration I will turn it off and on until it starts up again. It will run for a little bit then cut out again and I repeat the process. I have switched out the relays and checked the belts, all is well there. What could be the problem?
View 5 RepliesMy 1992 chevy s-10 is running really bad it idles high ( like around 2000 rpm to 1000 rpm) it starts high then slows down. Then when i drive it, it kinda stumbles. Iguess u can say it makes all kinds of noises and beats and bangs and if I am going up a hill some times it shuts off. It has a manual trany and a stock 4.3 motor. I need the truck to get back and forth to work....
View 3 Replies5 speed stick shift, first thing in the morning no problem, after driving a while it shakes in reverse and does not want to move, going forward is no problem, clutch and cv joints were replaced 4 years ago, 170k miles.
View 6 Replies2007 5.4 . Starts good , idles all day. As soon as you try to rev it, it stumbles rattles etc. Shut it off, wait a second, restart then Idles fine. I watched live Data and it carries on when the VVT solenoids become active (above 800 rpm).There duty cycle goes to 60-70 percent while revving. I think it Is just one side of the engine. Could be VVT solenoids sticking on? yes ? No?
View 3 RepliesI recently acquired a 1992 Buick Park Ave. My problem is that she shakes as i slow down and stalls when I stop. Usually about 10 minutes or so of driving. It doesn't stall every time but less when i baby the brake (i think) Its getting worse quickly and I've changed the spark plug wires and that didn't work also the previous owner recently changed the Cam sensor yet I'm getting a code 41.
View 14 RepliesI have a1997 Nissan Altima 140k miles with the manual transmission. I have a fuel problem that I can't seem to solve. every 1-2 days and only intermittently and unpredictably my car starts to idle up and down and occasionally if I don't give it enough gas they car may stall but the stalls only happen when I am not pressing the accelerator, meaning only at resting idle. since I am fanatic on washing my engine, I initially though that spark plugs were dirty or not working, I changed the spark plugs the distributor cap and the wires but the symptom continues. then I check the resistance of all the four fuel injectors and all of them read at around 12.8 ohms. I have also treated the fuel system twice with injector cleaner, the kind that you find at a gas station but still, the problem persists.
if it is not too much trouble I have another smaller questions. if the car sits overnight or for a couple days, the shift is really easy but as the car warms up the shifting becomes harder. could the transmission fluid need to drained and replaced?
I have had this for a year now. When I first heard it, I thought someone threw something at my vehicle. I would stop then be at the light then about a few seconds to a minute it sounds like a solenoid kicks out or kicks in... its pretty loud, my passengers even question it. I have taken it to the dealership 7 times now and I am getting frustrated as they do not hear anything each time. As I drive with them it doesnt do it... it seems it does it sporatically... Sometimes it does it after I have exited the vehicle and walking off, it goes through its normal electrical noises then clunk clunk... Strange. I have recorded a sound clip but they said they still have to hear it themselves and they believe it has something to do with the elecrical breaking system but they dont want to swap it out as its an expensive part as they want to make sure of it first... I think I am going to take it to another dealer..
View 8 RepliesWhy my Golf beeps 3 times whenever I take off from a complete stop?? No dash lights, other than ABS... The tach isn't currently working either.
View 4 RepliesI just recently bought an R about a month ago. I am having a problem with my brakes. It seems that every time I hit the brakes and come to a complete stop my brakes scream with this annoying squeaky sound ... My car has a little over 800 miles haven't driven hard, or dogged the car just been taking it nice and smooth for a proper break in.
View 20 RepliesWhenever I am in sport mode i shift into first prior to stopping, but when in normal drive mode the car comes to a complete stop before shifting into first is this normal???
View 8 RepliesWhen coming to a complete stop, the engine feels a little hesitation and RPM go down then up as shown on video. RPM go down then up twice sometimes at full stop. [URL] .....
History : December, car engine died. Replaced coils and spark plugs. Issues with RPM at stop started.
Two weeks ago, engine light stay on and warning light with triangle on, Diagnose a misfire. They replace Mass Air Assembly.
Today, they replaced the crank case valve Assembly to fix the issue but continues to be the same. The same valve was replace four months ago.
Is this normal and according to the dealer it is working fine. Bad coils?
My freshly rebuilt C6 with Transgo shift kit and Hughes 2500 stall converter won't downshift until I'm nearly at a dead stop. My Cruisomatic did the same thing in stock form. I roll up to an intersection and the light is green. I slow way down to negotiate the turn. I then throttle when headed straight and the tranny is still in Drive. It does the same thing when slowing way down for speed bumps. Could the shift kit or stall converter affect downshifts?
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