Nissan :: 1986 - Dash Warning Lights Stay Lit And Flicker For 20-30 Seconds Then Go Out
Dec 17, 2012
After starting my truck the dash warning lights (oil, battery, brake, low fuel) stay lit and flicker for 20-30 seconds then go out with the exception of the battery light. It remains dimly lit for 2-3 minutes before finally going out. The battery and alternator have tested OK. I cleaned the battery ground connections andreplaced the check light relay. Still the same situation. '86 Nissan Hardbody Pickup ....
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Just recently now the dash warning lights stay on or come back on shortly there after when the key is removed. I replaced the ignition switch. I can even leave the wiring to it disconnected with the same result. When the positive battery cable is removed and reconnected I can hear relay or relays clicking.
I pulled all one at a time next to the master cylinder in the two boxes. same result. I pulled all relays in the fuse box in the cab one at a time. no change.
Maybe related about a month ago the hvac fan stayed on. we had to turn that to the off position to remedy that. than it "fixed" itself. Starting points to check on this 4.6 with 361k on the clock 99% original....
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I got a 2008 LS460L. I replaced the daytime running lights but they flicker and don't stay on.. I'm looking to change them again any brand which works best. I want 6000k in headlights and fog lights.
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I have a 2014.5 Camry. About once every month or two, when I cut the car off, the radio lights flicker for a few seconds then stops. The lights seem to flicker long enough for all of the electronics and modules to power down. I have taken it to the dealer, but since the problem cannot be duplicated, nothing has been done. Just trying to figure out what may be the cause before the car goes out of warranty.
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My 2005 Elantra has no running lights, a/c won't come on, dash lights don't come on, and lights flicker on the dash when I have started the car and it has been on for a few minutes. Where I can look for a short or possible main fuse box in the engine? All the fuses in the interior box are fine. Headlights, wipers, and radio all work fine.
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The issue being that my interior, tail and sometimes dash lights have begun to flicker while the engine is running. It's noticeably worse upon cold start, however, once the engine warms up the flickering improves a bit. Also noteworthy, is just after starting the voltmeter jumps around between 14-14.5 volts. When the car idles down it settles at 14. My left side battery is sitting at 5 years old and when just the electronics are on it hovers around 13 volts. Am I looking at a failing alternator or voltage reg? Or perhaps a loose connection or iffy fuse or ground somewhere. The car does not idle roughly and I am not hearing or smelling anything that isn't normal. I just had both vcg, valve body, and tie rod ends done. I do not have a vag yet, but I was wondering if there is any for of troubleshooting I can do before she goes back in?
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i got a 1986 chevy g20 conversion van for camping trips and the dash lights and tail lights don't work but the turn signal works and the brake lights work and the headlights work i put in a new fuse and they worked for about 5 minutes then quit working there did apper to be a little watter in one of the tail light bulbs if that works.
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My headlights and dash illumination lights will intermittently flicker when I use the turn indicator to signal a right hand turn. Is it possible that there is a short in the turn indicator/high-low beam headlight control switch that is causing this?
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2004 Jetta Turbo Auto ...
"I inadvertently had my foot on the brake and lights on for awhile when the car was not started. Ignition on. then when i went to start it, it made a clicking sound inside the car (not at the engine) and the lights on the dash flickered. during that time i was initially still able to turn on radio, turn on headlights, use power locks, etc so i don't think it was the battery (tried jumping it and it did not jump start). maybe it's the starter?
Starter had given no problem previously. Or is there an interlock or module that could be keeping it from cranking?
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While driving I turned on my headlights and my car became possessed. My warning lights started to flicker on and off, my car was dinging out of control. The speedometer, gas, and RPM gauge went to zero. My brights light would not come on. My dinging for the lights being left on, or the key being left in the ignition, after the car is parked, and the door is open, will not go on either. I turned my lights off and all was well. Turned them on again and the same thing happened.
Now, the following day, it is doing this periodically every couple of minutes while I'm driving, whether the lights are on or not. My radio and head lights work fine. I checked all my fuses and they all seem to be AOK. I disconnected my car battery and reconnected it to see if it would reset and it still did the same thing. One other strange occurrence. The last month or so while I've been driving my battery light came on for a few minutes. I had the battery checked and it is not bad. Then last week my gas-cap warning started to randomly appear. I changed my gas cap, and guess what.....it still came on, at random.
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Problem with my '86 Celica's charging system. Car has about 135,000 miles and original alternator and belt. It is usually driven once or twice a week, but after sitting about 10 days, the tail light, brake, and battery warning lights came on when I started it. The lights went out after a minute. This same sequence of events happened the next three times I started the car that day. The fourth time, the lights went out but came back on as I drove. I found that revving the engine to between two and three thousand RPM made the light go off, but it sometimes came back on. And the engine revving isn't a sure thing now. Hit and miss. My wife and I have been trying to diagnose the problem.
When the warning lights are on, the dash voltmeter is near the bottom of the operating range. After revving and the lights going off, the voltmeter jumps up near the top of the normal operating range indicating the battery is charging.
The belt is checkered on the inside but not frayed. It deflected about 7/16ths inch midway between two pulleys about 17" apart. The Haynes manual said 1/2 inch was maximum deflection for that span. No unusual noises from the alternator.
We ran a checklist from my Haynes manual but I think it has an error in it. Here are the two steps that don't make sense. I marked the parts that seem to contradict with asterisks.
h) Disconnect the battery cables (negative first, then positive). Inspect the battery posts and the cable clamps for corrosion. Clean them thoroughly if necessary. Reconnect the cable to the negative terminal.
i) With the key off, insert a test light between the negative battery post and the disconnected negative cable clamp.
1) If the test light does not come on, reattach the clamp and proceed to the next step.
2) If the test light comes on, there is a short in the electrical system of the vehicle. The short must be repaired before the charging system can be checked.
3) Disconnect the alternator wiring harness.
(a) If the light goes out, the alternator is bad.
(b) If the light stays on, pull each fuse until the light goes out (this will tell you which component is shorted)."
Well, we decided that the last instruction in Step h should be to reconnect the POSITIVE cable (but could be wrong). I did this and we did Step i as written. The light came ON (Step 2). Disconnect the alternator wires at two points. Light stayed ON. Pulled every fuse under the hood and on the kick panel by the clutch. Light stayed ON.
The battery is near the end of its warranty period--about two-year old DieHard. Voltage at the terminals is about 12.4V with key out, about the same with ignition on but not running, the same with engine running and the dash lights showing, and about 14.5V after I get the dash lights to go off and the battery starts charging.
So, we're at a standstill. Tests say the tension on the belt is okay. The test light testing indicates the alternator is okay and the test light stayed on as fuses were pulled. The key was out of the ignition during the testing, but there are circuits that work without the key (brakes, hazard, headlights, etc.). Is the belt maybe slipping even though it is within specs on tension? What about the contradiction in the Haynes testing?
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I have a 1981 F100, lately when I've been driving at night I notice my headlights, dash lights, and charging light will flicker at the same time, and even sometimes my headlights will flash on and off by themselves.
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I have a 1997 F250 that I am fixing up. The issue is this... The dash lights now flicker off when I place the transmission in Drive position. I can slightly move the slack in the gear selector and the lights come back on. When the transmission is in Park, the dash lights work correctly. Not sure why there is some type of switch to control the dash lights buried within the steering column?
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I have a Nissan 98 frontier 4wheel drive 4 cylinder king cab. I just changed the windshield washer pump and since then the brake and battery indicator lights stay on. I disconnected the battery and that didn't work. The battery checks out and I could find the switch for the parking brake to check it. Sounds like a short in the wiring harness somewhere.
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1996 Aero with electronic AWD. This is my fourth Aero, the greatest van ever built! This one has the electronic all wheel drive and I loved it last winter. I get the warning light on the dash at startup to blink twice and then every 30 seconds or so it blinks twice again. This continues until I shut the van down and restart. Sometimes I do this restart two or three times to get the warning light to stop blinking twice. What does this "two blinking" sequence mean? And why does it not happen every time instead of the random happening?
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2000 lesabre picked up this car cause person didnt want to deal with problem any more. car starts n runs fine, but all instrument panel warning lights would come back on as if you turned on ignition but didnt start engine. everything fine for about 2 seconds after starting, then all lights come back on, gas gauge plummets to empty, and radio and door locks go dead. read alot of forums but this problem not to common. finally found one that said rear integration module replacement fixed it. so i unplugged it and opened the case n looked for bad solder or burn but couldnt see anything. flexed it a bit looking for cracks- nothing. put it back in and car worked great for 2 days. hooray! not so fast! left it outside the 2nd nite, went down to 22 degrees,- same problem. figured id try a used one from a boneyard. working great going on 2 weeks now, cold weather and all!
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Noticed this evening that my parking lights were on in my '01 Elantra. Car has been sitting since Friday evening in my garage. The lights were not on earlier today.
The car did start right up when I turned it on. Went inside to research and an hour later the lights are off again.
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I painted the senser on the dash black on the inside so the headlights stay on all the time. My question is the dash lights don't stay on all the time, I assumed they would with the headlights on and senser cover painted, drives me nuts with the dash lights coming on and off. How to make dash lights stay on.
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I had just picked my kid up from school, as I turn out of the parking lot my A/C stops blowing cool air, I check the A/C screen and it still says it's set on High with temp at 68. However, it is blowing very low with warm air. Seconds later the dash lights up with numerous warning lights. I'm on the highway and I'm able to gather speed, but each time I do I hear the engine revving like crazy. We only live a few miles from the school so I am able to make it home. Once home, I turn off the car and turn it back on. The only warning lights displayed now are the red triangle and the yellow check engine light. I turn the car off, pop the hood, I check the belt and it was fine. I checked the oil and it seemed fine. I check the coolant overflow and it was empty.
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Every few days I get an orange warning that says "check lights" for about 2 seconds. I am assuming that soon I will have to replace some of the bulbs. I understand that doing it at the dealer its a very expansive item, and that is not covered by warranty.
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Suddenly, while starting the car I see the ABS & Brake warning lights come on for a few seconds and then turn off. After a week of driving it the warning light come on and stay on and now another light comes on that looks like a circle with an exclamation mark in it. Am I in danger of damaging anything if I keep driving it? I called the dealer and explained the problem and he said the problem is a faulty ABS Control Unit.
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