Neon :: 1995 - At Start Up Died - Won't Restart - Dash Lights Won't Come On
Jun 5, 2011
Wife was driving her car and went around a corner when out of the blue it died. Unable to re-start. I've replaced plugs, wires, coil pack and still no response. I'm not a mechanic and don't know where any of the sensors are located. I tried doing the self-diagnostics test but now none of the dash lights come on. Car cranks just fine. I've heard that it may be sensors, it could be the safety switch. It's a 95 Plymouth Neon Sport, 2.0 SOHC Five Speed manual.
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My Father in Law's 95 Ranger, 4 Cylinder, 5 Speed has started acting strange. It has, in the past 3 weeks just died suddenly, and won't restart. No action at all when you turn the key, as if the battery is disconnected. Wait for 45 minutes to an hour, and it starts back up again.
He has had it to a local shop twice, and the only thing they have done is let it idle for 5 hours at the shop. Of course, it never stopped.
Now they are saying it is the clutch, and depending on the type of clutch, (big or small).
I've been working on cars most of my life, and even had an 87 Ranger, and I've gotta call BS on this. He says it happens mostly when coming to a stop.
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We have a 1995 S10 w/ a manual transmission. Our daughter had borrowed it and drove it to the store. She came out and it would not start. She tried every thing she could think of, and then tried to get it rolling and pop the clutch. Nothing. My husband and I went and tried it. No key buzzer, no dash lights, nothing. We tried a battery booster, but got nothing, another person came and we tried jumping it. That time we at least got dash lights (the ones you get when you turn your key on). Husband also tried to pop the clutch. Nothing.
Got it towed to the shop. They said they could find nothing wrong, but after they charged the battery, it started just fine. Drove it home, drove it a few more times. Went to start it and nothing. Thought it might be the battery, so we replaced it. Still nothing. Thought it might be that switch keeps the car from starting if the clutch pedal isn't pushed all the way down, so my husband mashed the clutch a couple times and it started. Went to start it the next time and nothing. Smashed that clutch pedal down hard, thinking that might work, still nothing. Husband came out and tried, still nothing.
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Went out to start my 150 last Wednesday. It started up, then quit, and then wouldn't start again. Later that night, it started up and then kept running. Called up a couple of auto parts stores and was told it was probably the fuel pump. The next day, we got it running and took it into the shop. They couldn't figure out what the problem was, so we took it back on Friday. On Saturday, I drove it about 40 miles, then parked it for about an hour, then it wouldn't start up again.
The mechanic came and checked it, said it almost certainly was the fuel pump, then he got it started with some brake cleaner. I drove it home and then later drove it again. I made a stop and it wouldn't start again. Had to get it towed to the shop. They spent all day Monday changing the fuel pump and filter and thought it was fixed. I picked it up and had no problems that night. My wife drove it Tuesday about 50 miles and had no problems with stopping or starting it. I went to start it up Tuesday evening and it died again and wouldn't start up.
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Cold start ok . Problem arises after engine is at operating temp. After stopping for whatever and attempting to restart, dash no longer lights up with key in on position but starter cranks and engine won't start. Leave key in on position for about a min.dash lights back up and engine starts.
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My 1990 Toyota Corolla which I hate to retire has only 64,000 miles on it. Starts and runs but while I am driving the dash lights up and the engine shuts off and won't restart. He thinks it is the NEC (?) switch but he said he is not really sure. Spending all that money and then finding out it is not fixed would not be worth it. It also is dangerous what if I am on the expressway?
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1995 Subaru Impreza. Has died several times w/in last 3 months when slowed down to stop or park. Power dummy light comes on when it dies. Resumes back to normal by turning ignition off and back on again. Check oil/power steering fluid regularly. Added extra oil week ago, too much oil perhaps? Car has history of smelling like it's burning either oil/power steering fluid when operated at high RMPs (ie climbing hills/accelerating). Smoke sometimes comes from under hood. Automatic, doesn't shift down very quickly. I either go super slow to keep RPMs low, or punch it to try and get it to shift. Last night/today:loud/almost grinding noise from under hood, all dummy lights went on, then died, completely fuctionless. any speculations?
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6.7 with 19k . Drove about 2 miles and noticed dash lights were flashing and ac was not working correctly . Pulled into garage shut off and truck wouldn't restart, no crank ! All my dash lights were flashing & dash was giving numerous messages.. At least I wasn't on my road trip 2 weeks ago! 3400 mile round trip. Truck was towed to dealer! My 6.0 never left me stranded & I had 3 of them..
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95 850 died on the highway - now it cranks and won't start. I had it towed to a mechanic who later told me he didn't work on Volvos. He did however check for spark - good. Timing belt- good. I replaced fuel pump and relay - no go. One possible hint is the lights on the Sport/Econ switch no longer light up and the first light I saw when it died was the up arrow light on the dash. Last winter I cleaned and regreased the PNP switch. Would that have anything to do with it?.
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Battery has died..... tried charging it and my amperage is spiking like crazy and wont stop. Prior to all of this my dash lights and gauges were fluctuating at best non responsive at worst. I believed that i had a short in my light switch but with it removed my problems are still consistent my battery terminals are fine, and my battery cables are in good condition. I do not know where the short could be ( i know there are thousands of locations).
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I have a 1998 Plymouth Neon that will start after it has cooled completely, and be fine through out the day, but when I get home from school and I start it again, it makes a strange screeching noise, and after turning off the engine and trying to restart the car, the vehicle will not start again, but all of the lights work, the battery is fine, the alternator is okay, the starter is a brand new OEM part, new ignition coil, new spark plugs, new safety neutral switch, new speed sensor, new battery cables, new camshaft position sensor, the only extra thing it does have is fog lights that were not put in by the dealership, this was done when my uncle still owned this car back in 1999. The only other problem that it has is an Error code of P1899 (Safety/Neutral Switch Stuck) and at times when turning the steering wheel, it will make a screeching noise halfway turned until you let go a bit, and then it is able to completely be turned either way, and one last thing is that the speedometer was a bit erratic one time, while I was driving home on the freeway.
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I have a 1995 k1500 when I turn the key on no lights on the dash if I wait 5-10 second you hear a click sound in steering column and the dash lights come on and starts fine. ???
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The cruise control and the overdrive off dash lights go out when I turn on the headlights. The cruse control and overdrive still work but the dash lights are not lit. It is a 95 4door explorer.
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Our 02 Elantra GT died and would not restart. When we tried jumping the battery, the car would not even attempt to turn over. What we did get was a noise from this part, which I cannot find labeled in any diagram that I've found, both in my owner manual and online.
02 elantra gt.jpg
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I have a 95 neon SOHC that drives with a very high Idle. Not all the time, but 85% of the time witch i find strange. This has been going on for the better part of a year and the car is almost undrivable. Its putting a hurting on my breaks for sure.
I had replaced the PCM 5 years ago. Replaced the timing belt 2 months ago. I have searched all around for vacuum leaks but am not able to find anything. I pulled the throttle body off and cleaned it very well. I replaced the IAC.
The car continues to idle out of control as if the IAC is wide open. The only way to get the car to idle correctly is to cover the idle hole in the throttle body 90% up with my finger. The guy at Auto Zone said if its not IAC or vacuum hoses, then I should start replacing sensors. How do I diagnose this problem?
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I have a 1995 Dodge neon 2.0 SOHC. It stars, runs for a few minutes, then dies. Then when I try again it will run for a few seconds before it dies. After that I do not hear my fuel pump engage when I turn they key. It takes about a day before it repeats this process.
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My 95 Dodge neon had no problems it ran, started, drove fine everyday! Check engine light turns on after few drives... Now after about 10 drives the car does not start. It makes a rapid clicking noise.... Called auto shop they say battery, I bought this battery one year ago from them. They suggest i try a jump start. I go to jump start, look down check engine light is FLASHING.... Since car wont start, needs a tow for a car I'm not even driving nor will drive and not worth my money to invest anymore.....
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I have a 95 neon that is running a very high Idle. When you remove your foot off the break & gas it idles around 40 mph. Iv just replaced all the breaks and its melting the new ones already. I am receiving the following check Engine Codes: 12, 25, 32, 15. I have completed the following repairs:
1) replaced all vacuum lines.2) removed EGR Valve to clean, replaced all lines. No more engine code 32, however, now I am getting engine code: 12, 23, 25, 15.3) removed intake manifold to replace the PCV Valve as well as all hoses from the oil separator.4) replaced the IAC sensor5) used ohm meter to check all wiring from IAC to computer. no issues.6) replaced the TPC sensor7) used a ohm meter to check all wiring from the TPC to the computer. No issues.8) used a ohm meter to see if the air temperature sensor was working correctly. No issues9) checked wiring from Air temperature sensor to computer, no issues.
The car continues to idle extremely high to the point it is not safe to drive. By feeling the throttle body where the IAC lets in air, it feels like its comply open. I pulled the IAC out of the throttle body while it was plugged in and ground to the engine block. When you turn the car on you can see the IAC move, but it never seems to want to shut off air supply.
It appears the computer is telling it to let more air in even though its very high idle. I replaced the computer about 5 years ago. what would cause this?! Im to the point iv put in way too much time and money already. but I don't want to buy a new car when it could just be a $50 fix.
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1987 olds delta 88, 106,000 miles Pulling out onto the road one day, my car died and would not restart. Was idling fine, happened when I hit the gas. Here are the things checked. Ignition control module and coils checked ok at autozone. I replaced the cam and crank sensors, the coolant temp sensor, the plugs and the tps. Most of the time it will not try to fire, it backfires sometimes. I has started twice, but then would not restart. I have spark and fuel pressure, but will not even fire with starter fluid.
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1981 Mercedes 380 SL. Experienced a problem this week, car started but immediately died and would not restart. 36 hours later tried again with same result. Only 89K miles, fuel pump replaced a year ago.
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I've only owned my neon for 3 weeks. I have a loud knocking/clunking noise and it feels like the rear is trying to freeze up in reverse it knocks/clunks louder when i brake in reverse. Sometimes it will knock/clunk and feel like something is trying freeze up in normal forward driving (maybe one of twice every few days) but it happens every single time i reverse.
We have already replaced the rear struts as we thought this was the problem.
I'm getting frustrated I need a good car to drive my child to school and I afraid to drive this one but I don't have much of a choice. It has had a lot of recent work by the previous owner (my brother-in-law) including a new clutch, exhaust, tie rods, new brakes all around and brand new tires so i'd like to fix it because it's in great shape and runs well for it age.
Another piece of information that may be relevant is the car sat for roughly a year and half with no use but was regularly started although I don't think they moved it. I'm wondering if it could have something to do with the brakes?
The problem starting roughly 3 days after I bought the car I don't drive much but would like to fix this so we can take it on longer trips as it's the only vehicle we own that fits everyone in it. Our secondary is a 2 seater Toyota pickup for my husband to commute to work in and there's 3 of us so the car being in the condition it's in doesn't work for us.
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