Mitsubishi - Outlander :: 2003 - Radiator Fan Super Loud And Won't Shut Off
Dec 29, 2012
I have a 2003 Mitsubishi Outlander. About two months ago, I replaced (myself) the radiator fan because it had stopped working. I bought the new fan on the internet and it was fairly easy to install. It was a little louder than the original fan, but it worked great. Last week it suddenly became louder and stays on for a minute after I turn the car off. Is the fan defective? Should I return it? Should I ask my mechanic to test it? Or just ignore it?
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One thing you hate to hear when you go to a mechanic's is "that's a common problem" and "there's no permanent fix for it." Since we moved to a shady street, my car is leaking dirty water on the inside passenger side from under the dash, especially when I make a left turn. It really can start to smell bad and I now keep a bucket under the dash and have to leave the window cracked despite the daily rain in Tampa. Twice I have had the lines blown out, but I was told the problem would come back and to really clean it out and that the problem would come back anyway after that. According to my mechanic, the problem stems from the leaves getting inside the engine and clogging up some line. And to everyone else, don't buy a Mitsubishi Outlander.
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Past 6 months I have a vibration/shimmy in '08 Outlander when accelerating in first gear (automatic). I can feel in my foot on accelerator and when passenger seat is empty the seat belt vibrates against door panel. It is not in steering wheel or tires. No hesitation or skipping in engine, just vibration that goes away once car gets into 2-3 gear. Dealer said transmission tested fine. Naturally.
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2010 Mitsubishi Outlander ES On three separate occasions, while driving, my check brake warning light has come on. When I brake, it immediately turns back off. On the second occasion it came back on about a minute later, but again, turned right back off after pressing the brake. There is no rhyme or reason to when this happens--the first time I was going about 25mph, the next two times it happened on the highway when I was going 55. It has happened within a couple of minutes of starting up, or after about 15 minutes. I haven't driven it for further than about 20 miles since it started, so I can't speak to whether it continues to occur on long drives or not. Sometimes it doesn't happen at all.
I haven't experienced any difference in braking--same amount of pressure when I press the pedal, same stopping distances, no vibrations or noises, etc. It was also recently at the shop for an oil change and tire rotation. The car is about 2.5-3 years old and has 20,600 miles on it (I don't drive much!). I checked the brake fluid; it is smack dab in the middle of the min and max lines, and it is clean. It was also just in over Christmas for the big 2 year/30,000 mile check and everything was totally fine. What this could be?
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Have a metallic/rattling sound under my car while idling. Don't hear it while driving. 2010 Mitsubishi Outlander
Here is link to sound file [URL] ....
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On three separate occasions, while driving, my check brake warning light has come on. When I brake, it immediately turns back off. On the second occasion it came back on about a minute later, but again, turned right back off after pressing the brake. There is no rhyme or reason to when this happens--the first time I was going about 25mph, the next two times it happened on the highway when I was going 55. It has happened within a couple of minutes of starting up, or after about 15 minutes. I haven't driven it for further than about 20 miles since it started, so I can't speak to whether it continues to occur on long drives or not. Sometimes it doesn't happen at all.
I haven't experienced any difference in braking--same amount of pressure when I press the pedal, same stopping distances, no vibrations or noises, etc. It was also recently at the shop for an oil change and tire rotation. The car is about 2.5-3 years old and has 20,600 miles on it (I don't drive much!). I checked the brake fluid; it is smack dab in the middle of the min and max lines, and it is clean. It was also just in over Christmas for the big 2 year/30,000 mile check and everything was totally fine.
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I have a 03 Lincoln LS V8 101k and lately the radiator fan has been very loud. I also noticed that the engine temperature gauge is rising just a little bit higher over the middle mark where it normally sits but not so high. In several cases, when i'm driving everything seem normal but the moment i stop at a redlight, the fan gets really loud. A couple of times i left the car turned on in the driveway and it got very loud. I turned on the heat and it seem to work a little bit. These past couple of cold days i have been using the heat and no sign of the problem anymore. What can be causing this? is it thermostat related?
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I recently noticed my car is leaking its motor oil into the radiator. There is no water in the motor oil and the transmission oil is at it's appropriate level and such.
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Our 1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse engine heated up. The Anti Freeze reservoir is full but the radiator was low which caused the car to heat up. Why isthe anti freeze not getting to the radiator? The hose seems clear. We filled the radiator with anti freeze and the seems to be working fine. Why is it not sucking from the reservoir.
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1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse. 2.0L 5-speed. 195,000. When I complete my 33 mile trip home and shut off engine, I can hear air bubbling into the overflow tank from radiator. Temp gauge shows normal. Just had new water pump, thermostat, radiator flush and refill and new 16 lb radiator cap installed. Overflow tank fills up to near top (not running over) and when engine cools, the tank is back down to half way. I've checked water level in radiator when cool and it is full. Question: Is this normal? Don't think I've ever noticed or heard the bubbling sound before. The engine runs great and smoothly.
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I have a 2011 F-350 diesel crew cab dealer said I had a radiator leak so they replaced it now after I shut truck off it starts humming real loud like its relieving pressure my temps and everything else seems to be ok...
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My car was starting to over heat and I wasn't getting any heat thru the vents. Thermostat was replaced and so was the radiator cap. The coolant reservoir is still topped off, and doesn't seem to be getting sucked thru to the radiator. If I pour coolant directly into the radiator, car temp stays even, and heat eventually does come thru vents, better while driving. But, I still get steam/smoke coming from radiator cap. I cannot be buying and pouring coolant into the radiator everyday. I have a 99 Mitsubishi Eclipse with approx 140xxx miles...
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I have a 98 mitsubishi triton v6 3.0, I am confused with a issue I am having, coolant heats up and is put into reservoir tank as normal, but when car cools down it does not suck it back into radiator.
Have purchased new radiator cap.
No coolant on ground or any visible leaks in engine bay.
No white smoke when starting car or running
No sweet smell of coolant burning
No leaks inside heater
Car doesn't overheat, just pushes more coolant Into reservoir
Slight bubbles in radiator when cap off
No coolant in oil
Put a bottle of radiator leak fix in, no improvement,
Only thing is that 3 out of 5 intake manifold bolts are stuffed, they grab but don't get a tight fit, could this cause the vacuum leak not returning the coolant to radiator....
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My 1997 Mitsubishi Eclipse will continue running when the key switch is shut off and the key is actually removed. This occurs intermittently and the dealer can not give me a cause for it!?
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About 3 months ago I threw the timing belt on my 2001 Mits Galant ES 2.4L 4cyl. I replaced the belt and 8 valves; costed me a pretty penny. Since that time I was having Idle problems. The Throttle assembly with the Idle Control valve was replaced. I have Cruise control. The car was started, it warmed up and then shut off. Attempts to keep car running on its own have failed. Is it a programming problem? Is it the computer? No codes are returned.
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I've got a 2004 F450 that I'm loving, but suddenly having an issue getting it into gear. To get it out of park and into another gear I've got to turn the key a little father towards start (somewhere in between normal after start position and actually engaging the starter) and then the column shifter will actually let me get out of park and into another gear. Once I've done this there is no problem moving between gears. Last, this has to be related since it started at the same time - when I'm in cruise control it takes a greater amount of force on the brake to get the cruise control to shut off. When it finally does, it makes a loud click, almost a bang. If I only lightly push on the brake it won't kick off the cruise control and the engine will increase power to keep the speed and fight me on the brake.
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2002 Diamante, Passenger side seatbelt became stuck and started smoking after the door was "slammed" shut. Need to know if this can be fixed or am I going to have to ride in the back seat?
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I have an 02 mitsu lancer and over the course of 3 days the car has gotten REALLY loud only when accelerating. it sounds like it has been straightpiped but the muffler is still there. Also when accelerating the car vibrates very noticeably - I can feel it in the steering column and the gas pedal. When I have been accelerating and come off the gas, the car makes a loud hiss that sounds like blowoff valves which is weird because this is obviously a naturally aspirated car. I would have thought there could just be a hole in the exhaust system but that doesn't explain the vibrating and all of these symptoms arose at the same time. What could this be?
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Today i drove 45 mins to the mall without incident. When i went to leave i noticed after starting the car my radiator fan came on and wouldn't shut off. Its 20 degrees (F) outside. Driving home there was a slight skip a few times going through the rev range while shifting. Later on today when starting the car it just cranked and didnt start until i put my foot on the gas peddle. Its done this everytime now since. (5 or 6 start cycles). A day ago i removed the stock air box and put on a cone filter, i had no issues until today. (24 hrs later) the car has 82k miles. Plugs were last done around 20k if thats relevant.
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So the last week and a half my car has been making a loud noise that sounds like a loud POK when my car accelerates or slows down. I am worried that there is a loose bolt somewhere and that the noise is caused by something shifting under the forces being applied to the wheels.
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I have a 1992 Mitsubishi 3000gt VR-4 (Twin turbo)
Last night I was driving.. not even pushing my car or anything. I go through 1st gear fine, then when I hit second, out of nowhere I hear this loud air escaping sound come from under the hood around 3000rpms. As I went up in rpms, the sound just got louder, so I shifted quick.
It sounded like if I just tried to go through it, it would explode or something. I looked this up and found somewhere it said to try tightening the clamps on everything under the hood, so I did that. None of them were loose but I did tighten them a lot.
I also looked at my (boost?) gauge (gauge on the far right in the car) and it seemed like it was stuck at halfway and moved very little when I was driving. I was going to have a person try to feel where the air was coming from when I revved it in neutral but it doesn't seem to do it in neutral..
Never heard it before and I need to figure this out as soon as possible. Trying to sell my car and this happens..
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