Mitsubishi - Montero :: Seagull Like Sound Coming From Under The Hood Near Steering Wheel
Aug 26, 2012
there's a noise that sounds like a seagull coming from under the hood near the steering wheel. Turns out it's the vacuum brake accumulator & there was a recall on this. Unfortunately I had the part replaced back in 02, so Montero won't fix it a second time. I only use the vehicle on the weekends & didn't see any reduction in the brake performance so I put the repair off. That was over a year ago. How important is it to fix this? Other than the really odd noise there doesn't seem to be an issue.... I'm just trying to decide the future of my truck since the transfer case is gone & I can't use 4wd or AWD and more. That's been broken & flashing about a year too.. On top of that the AC is broken & now there's a light tapping noise whenever the car is in gear, but not in park.. I really love my truck but am losing hope. Everyone says it's not worth fixing. 140,000 miles.
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2002 Mitsubishi Montero Limited V6 ... Occasionally while slowing from 15 miles per hour to 5 miles per hour, i'll hear a vibrating sound coming out of the engine area like a gear trying to catch and then when i slow to 5 miles per hour, i hear a snap like it just caught or snapped into place and fixed itself. The car drives fine while this is happening, and at all other times. I have 125K miles on it and it has been well maintained. Originally i thought the sound was coming from the front right tire area and had the brakes and shocks/struts checked... The sound could be more centrally located though. What is that?
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We have a 2007 Mitsubishi Pajero (not sure the current equivalent in US, it used to be the Montero but I think they have since discontinued it). It's a great car. One rather annoying issue we are having with it at the moment...
The radio changes volume by itself. It goes up, it goes down, all on it's own without any input from us. Here are some observations:
- Only happens when the car is in motion, at a stand-still it is fine.
- Only happens when listening to radio, not CD player or DVD player.
The car does not have a "knob" for the volume, it is just buttons (rules out potentiometer thingy)
There are steering wheel controls, but the fact that the volume changes only happen when listening to the radio, and not CD, make me believe it's not those. Same with speed-sensitive volume controls. We have turned those off in the settings and it still does the same. Even with them on or off, the CD volume works as expected.
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Replaced battery and, when I did, the alarm went off. Tried to start suv while alarm going and totally dead. So I hit the remote to stop alarm and it still won't start or even turn over now. It barely turned over with old battery, but at least turned over, but after alarm, no clicking, no nothing.
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Once in a while, the car won't even attempt to start. All you hear is a click, then one or two more tries and the car starts. When idling the knocking can be heard, or when I push the gas the knock can be heard. I was once told it could be that the spark plugs are going bad and it is causing an issue with the pistons. Every so often the knocking will go away completely. Also with the car not starting it is not like you hear the car try to start, it is just a click and nothing else.
Mitsubishi/Montero Sport 3.0 L 2003 .....
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I own a 2002 Mitsubishi Montero Sport. I purchased the car 2 years ago, it appeared to be maintained well as it was like a new car and it has been running like dream car until now. I noticed what I believe to be a slipping transmission at the beginning of summer. It happened infrequently but still worries me nonetheless.
I get in my car early in the morning, drive down an alleyway and turn onto a side street, then I come to complete stop at the main street. I see no traffic and push on the accelerator to go and nothing happens for about 10-20 seconds, then it seems to catch, and I head on my merry way to work. Occasionally, it will start to go (just enough to coast me into traffic in a dangerous position) and then cut out and then catch again after the 10-20 seconds. If it happens, it is only at that moment in the day and no other.
I thought maybe it could be from sitting for awhile, but the car actually sits longer at work than at home. (I work too much. Local truck driver...) Whether this is of significance or not, it did not occur during the hottest few weeks of the summer, but other than that, it appears the transmission slips about 2-3 times per week. Could the colder morning temperatures affect anything? Could it be some sort of sediment stirred up in the morning that is clogging the filter?
I was thinking of taking it to the shop and getting it drained and the filter replaced. Would that most likely alleviate the problem?
The vehicle currently has 113,270 miles on it and I am not sure if the transmission fluid has ever been changed as I bought it used at a dealership.
I was reading [URL] and it said, "The old fluid was gritty due to metal shavings caused by normal internal wear and tear on the transmission clutches and was acting like liquid sandpaper. This "sandpaper" was producing the friction needed for the transmission to pull itself. When we changed the filter and replaced the old fluid with new fluid, the clutches inside the transmission had nothing to grab on to." Is this something I seriously need to be concerned about?
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While driving my Montero sport last week, I began smelling a burning rubber smell from the air vents. At the same time I noticed, on the dashboard, that both the brake, and, battery indicators had lit up. There was no smoke, mist, or off sounds, coming from the engine, and, the engine seemed to be running no differently than before this occurred. I drove home, parked the car for 5 days, and, yesterday visually inspected what I could see, which was almost nothing unusual. I started the engine and let it run for about 10 minutes in park.
The engine ran normal, no noticeable knocks or pings, no shaking of the engine, the belts ran smooth, no noticeable leaks of any kind. I checked all fluids and they were at normal levels, only the power steering showed a slightly lower than mid level of fluid, not anywhere near low.line. But, as soon as I started the engine, the dashboard indicators lit up and stayed on. There was only a very faint smell of rubber at the end of the 10 minute running of the engine, barely noticeable. The only thing that I did different recently was about 2 weeks ago I added a quart Pennzoil high mileage motor oil 5-30 instead of the usual GTX high mileage motor oil 5-30 that I usually put in the engine, as there was none available at the store. The auto has ran very well for the past year.
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I have a 1992 Mitsubishi 3000gt VR-4 (Twin turbo)
Last night I was driving.. not even pushing my car or anything. I go through 1st gear fine, then when I hit second, out of nowhere I hear this loud air escaping sound come from under the hood around 3000rpms. As I went up in rpms, the sound just got louder, so I shifted quick.
It sounded like if I just tried to go through it, it would explode or something. I looked this up and found somewhere it said to try tightening the clamps on everything under the hood, so I did that. None of them were loose but I did tighten them a lot.
I also looked at my (boost?) gauge (gauge on the far right in the car) and it seemed like it was stuck at halfway and moved very little when I was driving. I was going to have a person try to feel where the air was coming from when I revved it in neutral but it doesn't seem to do it in neutral..
Never heard it before and I need to figure this out as soon as possible. Trying to sell my car and this happens..
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While driving at highway speeds the "n" light on the gear shift starts flashing. This indicates that the automatic transmission is overheating, and that I should pull over to let it cool per the owners manual and a sticker on the drivers door. Which I do - I let it sit for about 5 mins and its ready to go again. However, this is inconvenient and has happened on numerous occasions. I have search all over the internet for a solution, and the only thing that seems to be the solution is to get a bigger pan?
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My lights, headlamps and interior lights, are going from normal to slightly dim in a rapid sequence. They pulse from normal to slightly dim. What could be causing this?
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Have a 1998 Mitsubishi Montero.
Best car I've ever owned. 184K miles, never once failed to start.
I was crushed to discover this spot of frame cancer on the driverside rear portion of the frame behind the rear wheel (attached images) .
Is this terminal?
Is it safe to drive and therefore potentially crash this vehicle?
Before the ground froze I dug a 10x18x10 foot deep hole in the backyard....
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2002 Montero sport 3.5V6 , Miles: 130,000. Bought recently drove home over 2 hour drive no issues, Recent work: Timing belt (preemptive). All Serpentine belts, PCV valve (after timing belt job I noticed oil in exhaust)It gave a P0506 code and idling at 500 rpm after the timing belt job, found some oil in exhaust. Got the PCV valve replaced. That solved the oil in exhaust issue, but the code has come back. Drives ok, no issues, no smoke.I am going to clean the throttle body and install new air filter, today and take it on a highway drive (clean oil residue from cat). I had the timing belt work done at a very trusted place, but this time their game was not so good. Boss on vacation, new location and their work was somewhat careless not their usual style.
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I own a 1987 Mitsubishi Montero 2-door, 4x4, vin # JA7FJ23F9HJO30272 with a 5 speed manual transmission. It's powered by a family 2.6 T2FFC3 engine with CID 1.55.987.
My problem occurs quite sporadically, sometimes after driving 100 miles or so. Then, the engine starts missing as if you were turning the ignition off and on very quickly. Most often I have to limp back home by getting spurts of acceleration along with skipping.
Some technicians say the bushings are worn out in the distributors shaft housing and some other technicians state it may be a carburation problem. However, I am desperate for a solution to solve my problem, and possibly better my fuel economy to more than 12+/- miles per gallon.
Is this a common problem of these vehicles with high mileage? Do you have a solution to resolve my problem? My vehicle has 132,059 miles as of this writing.
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My 1998 Mitsu Montero Sport (2-wheel drive)has an automatic trans with L-2-D options. You can manually start in "Low" and go to "2" and then to "Drive, or just drive in D as usual. It also has an AT button for (auto traction) and a button for overdrive mode. PROBLEM: The car stopped shifting properly in the Drive mode. Intermittently it does not shift down to low, so I have to manually shift to Low and then to 2 or drive, etc. Everything else works fine except occaissionally in the Drive mode. I was told the "Check Engine" error was to replace the Transmission solenoids.
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I have a mysterious exhaust issue on my 1991 Montero. After the engine warms up and I have been stopped at a red light for a minute or so when I accelerate away from the light a cloud of blue (I assume oil) smoke puffs out of the exhaust pipe. If I sit in the vehicle with it idling for, say, 5 minutes then the cloud of blue smoke can last all the way down the block. Then it goes away. Spark plugs are all clean. PCV valve recently replaced. Mo warning lights. What can this be?
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I got a 2010 with 58 k miles that when I turn on the car in the morning have a an electrical cracking sound coming from the steering wheel. What could it be?
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I have a 97 F150 that I just got a few weeks ago. I was driving home Wed. night when the 4x4 low range light would come on and off intermittently I had it in 2h the whole time. I went online and couldn't really find anything on it. So I get up to go to work on Thursday and the truck wouldn't even turn over. The battery was dead. I have put in a new one but now after turning the truck off I hear a clicking sound coming from the steering wheel. What this may be?
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Took delivery of my 2015 GTI a few weeks ago. Overall the car is great, but I have a feeling the tires that came with it just plain suck. They are Pirelli P7 Cinturato A/S. According to Tire Rack, these are grand touring tires?! Not exactly what I'd expect to be put on a GTI. Anyway, I've noticed that at almost exactly between 60mph-70mph there is a "whine" sound coming from them, also just the slightest vibration in the steering wheel. At every other speed they are relatively quiet and the wheel is absolutely dead solid, no vibration. Could these tires just be of relatively poor quality? Should I have them put on a balancing machine to see if everything checks out? I'm assuming these were balanced on a Road Force machine at the factory since that is the OEM for VW/Audi, but I'm not 100% sure obviously.
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Today I am getting a "squeaking rubber" sound coming inside the car from the steering wheel when its turned. Not from under the hood! We had a sudden temperature drop over night but this has never happened before. Car has over 180K on it. Power steering fluid is between the lines. I don't see any plastic that is rubbing.
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In my 2006 Prius, I just started noticing this recently, but whenever I turn my steering wheel, it makes a weird noise and I can feel something going on through the steering wheel. It doesn't impede my steering, the car steers just fine... It's just an add sound, I don't want to say a cracking sound... but it kind of is? I don't know. I'll have to put a video of it up. & it doesn't matter which way I turn it, it still makes the weird sound and the intermittent vibration... I know it has E-steering and occasionally you can here the motor whirring when you turn it but this is different, it's a loud... popping noise is the word for it! Popping, and I can feel it when it pops through the steering wheel. Again, it doesn't impede the steering ability at all, but something isn't right I'm sure... Or maybe it's normal.
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I just recently bought a 2000 Explorer, 4.0 OHV, 4x4 with about 150,000 miles.
I've had the vehicle for about a month, and ever since I bought it, it's had a grinding sound (sounded like wheel bearing) coming from the front right side. I replaced both right and left bearing/hub assemblies, and took it out for a drive. The initial sound that I thought was bearing noise is still there, and at about 65mph I started to get a little bit of steering wheel shake. I took my foot off the gas and it stopped. I accelerated up to about 70mph and it seemed ok.
I hit a VERY small bump in the road and the steering wheel started shaking like hell. So bad that I almost lost control. I slammed the brakes and the shake stopped instantly. I took it home and put it up in the air, half expecting to see something loose or broken, and everything looks perfect. I re-torqued everything that I had taken apart for the initial hub/bearing replacement, and took it out again. Same issues.
I never had ANY of these problems before I replaced the hub/bearing assemblies, so I'm completely confused. I was thinking CV joints, but I have no clicking at all when turning, in forward or reverse, everything is smooth. Outer tie rods were done about 6 weeks ago..
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