Mitsubishi - Montero :: Check Engine Error - Replace Transmission Solenoids?
Feb 9, 2011
My 1998 Mitsu Montero Sport (2-wheel drive)has an automatic trans with L-2-D options. You can manually start in "Low" and go to "2" and then to "Drive, or just drive in D as usual. It also has an AT button for (auto traction) and a button for overdrive mode. PROBLEM: The car stopped shifting properly in the Drive mode. Intermittently it does not shift down to low, so I have to manually shift to Low and then to 2 or drive, etc. Everything else works fine except occaissionally in the Drive mode. I was told the "Check Engine" error was to replace the Transmission solenoids.
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I own a 2002 Mitsubishi Montero Sport. I purchased the car 2 years ago, it appeared to be maintained well as it was like a new car and it has been running like dream car until now. I noticed what I believe to be a slipping transmission at the beginning of summer. It happened infrequently but still worries me nonetheless.
I get in my car early in the morning, drive down an alleyway and turn onto a side street, then I come to complete stop at the main street. I see no traffic and push on the accelerator to go and nothing happens for about 10-20 seconds, then it seems to catch, and I head on my merry way to work. Occasionally, it will start to go (just enough to coast me into traffic in a dangerous position) and then cut out and then catch again after the 10-20 seconds. If it happens, it is only at that moment in the day and no other.
I thought maybe it could be from sitting for awhile, but the car actually sits longer at work than at home. (I work too much. Local truck driver...) Whether this is of significance or not, it did not occur during the hottest few weeks of the summer, but other than that, it appears the transmission slips about 2-3 times per week. Could the colder morning temperatures affect anything? Could it be some sort of sediment stirred up in the morning that is clogging the filter?
I was thinking of taking it to the shop and getting it drained and the filter replaced. Would that most likely alleviate the problem?
The vehicle currently has 113,270 miles on it and I am not sure if the transmission fluid has ever been changed as I bought it used at a dealership.
I was reading [URL] and it said, "The old fluid was gritty due to metal shavings caused by normal internal wear and tear on the transmission clutches and was acting like liquid sandpaper. This "sandpaper" was producing the friction needed for the transmission to pull itself. When we changed the filter and replaced the old fluid with new fluid, the clutches inside the transmission had nothing to grab on to." Is this something I seriously need to be concerned about?
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Once in a while, the car won't even attempt to start. All you hear is a click, then one or two more tries and the car starts. When idling the knocking can be heard, or when I push the gas the knock can be heard. I was once told it could be that the spark plugs are going bad and it is causing an issue with the pistons. Every so often the knocking will go away completely. Also with the car not starting it is not like you hear the car try to start, it is just a click and nothing else.
Mitsubishi/Montero Sport 3.0 L 2003 .....
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I own a 1987 Mitsubishi Montero 2-door, 4x4, vin # JA7FJ23F9HJO30272 with a 5 speed manual transmission. It's powered by a family 2.6 T2FFC3 engine with CID 1.55.987.
My problem occurs quite sporadically, sometimes after driving 100 miles or so. Then, the engine starts missing as if you were turning the ignition off and on very quickly. Most often I have to limp back home by getting spurts of acceleration along with skipping.
Some technicians say the bushings are worn out in the distributors shaft housing and some other technicians state it may be a carburation problem. However, I am desperate for a solution to solve my problem, and possibly better my fuel economy to more than 12+/- miles per gallon.
Is this a common problem of these vehicles with high mileage? Do you have a solution to resolve my problem? My vehicle has 132,059 miles as of this writing.
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2002 Mitsubishi Montero Limited V6 ... Occasionally while slowing from 15 miles per hour to 5 miles per hour, i'll hear a vibrating sound coming out of the engine area like a gear trying to catch and then when i slow to 5 miles per hour, i hear a snap like it just caught or snapped into place and fixed itself. The car drives fine while this is happening, and at all other times. I have 125K miles on it and it has been well maintained. Originally i thought the sound was coming from the front right tire area and had the brakes and shocks/struts checked... The sound could be more centrally located though. What is that?
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We have a 2007 Mitsubishi Pajero (not sure the current equivalent in US, it used to be the Montero but I think they have since discontinued it). It's a great car. One rather annoying issue we are having with it at the moment...
The radio changes volume by itself. It goes up, it goes down, all on it's own without any input from us. Here are some observations:
- Only happens when the car is in motion, at a stand-still it is fine.
- Only happens when listening to radio, not CD player or DVD player.
The car does not have a "knob" for the volume, it is just buttons (rules out potentiometer thingy)
There are steering wheel controls, but the fact that the volume changes only happen when listening to the radio, and not CD, make me believe it's not those. Same with speed-sensitive volume controls. We have turned those off in the settings and it still does the same. Even with them on or off, the CD volume works as expected.
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Replaced battery and, when I did, the alarm went off. Tried to start suv while alarm going and totally dead. So I hit the remote to stop alarm and it still won't start or even turn over now. It barely turned over with old battery, but at least turned over, but after alarm, no clicking, no nothing.
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While driving my Montero sport last week, I began smelling a burning rubber smell from the air vents. At the same time I noticed, on the dashboard, that both the brake, and, battery indicators had lit up. There was no smoke, mist, or off sounds, coming from the engine, and, the engine seemed to be running no differently than before this occurred. I drove home, parked the car for 5 days, and, yesterday visually inspected what I could see, which was almost nothing unusual. I started the engine and let it run for about 10 minutes in park.
The engine ran normal, no noticeable knocks or pings, no shaking of the engine, the belts ran smooth, no noticeable leaks of any kind. I checked all fluids and they were at normal levels, only the power steering showed a slightly lower than mid level of fluid, not anywhere near low.line. But, as soon as I started the engine, the dashboard indicators lit up and stayed on. There was only a very faint smell of rubber at the end of the 10 minute running of the engine, barely noticeable. The only thing that I did different recently was about 2 weeks ago I added a quart Pennzoil high mileage motor oil 5-30 instead of the usual GTX high mileage motor oil 5-30 that I usually put in the engine, as there was none available at the store. The auto has ran very well for the past year.
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there's a noise that sounds like a seagull coming from under the hood near the steering wheel. Turns out it's the vacuum brake accumulator & there was a recall on this. Unfortunately I had the part replaced back in 02, so Montero won't fix it a second time. I only use the vehicle on the weekends & didn't see any reduction in the brake performance so I put the repair off. That was over a year ago. How important is it to fix this? Other than the really odd noise there doesn't seem to be an issue.... I'm just trying to decide the future of my truck since the transfer case is gone & I can't use 4wd or AWD and more. That's been broken & flashing about a year too.. On top of that the AC is broken & now there's a light tapping noise whenever the car is in gear, but not in park.. I really love my truck but am losing hope. Everyone says it's not worth fixing. 140,000 miles.
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While driving at highway speeds the "n" light on the gear shift starts flashing. This indicates that the automatic transmission is overheating, and that I should pull over to let it cool per the owners manual and a sticker on the drivers door. Which I do - I let it sit for about 5 mins and its ready to go again. However, this is inconvenient and has happened on numerous occasions. I have search all over the internet for a solution, and the only thing that seems to be the solution is to get a bigger pan?
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My lights, headlamps and interior lights, are going from normal to slightly dim in a rapid sequence. They pulse from normal to slightly dim. What could be causing this?
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Have a 1998 Mitsubishi Montero.
Best car I've ever owned. 184K miles, never once failed to start.
I was crushed to discover this spot of frame cancer on the driverside rear portion of the frame behind the rear wheel (attached images) .
Is this terminal?
Is it safe to drive and therefore potentially crash this vehicle?
Before the ground froze I dug a 10x18x10 foot deep hole in the backyard....
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2002 Montero sport 3.5V6 , Miles: 130,000. Bought recently drove home over 2 hour drive no issues, Recent work: Timing belt (preemptive). All Serpentine belts, PCV valve (after timing belt job I noticed oil in exhaust)It gave a P0506 code and idling at 500 rpm after the timing belt job, found some oil in exhaust. Got the PCV valve replaced. That solved the oil in exhaust issue, but the code has come back. Drives ok, no issues, no smoke.I am going to clean the throttle body and install new air filter, today and take it on a highway drive (clean oil residue from cat). I had the timing belt work done at a very trusted place, but this time their game was not so good. Boss on vacation, new location and their work was somewhat careless not their usual style.
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I have a mysterious exhaust issue on my 1991 Montero. After the engine warms up and I have been stopped at a red light for a minute or so when I accelerate away from the light a cloud of blue (I assume oil) smoke puffs out of the exhaust pipe. If I sit in the vehicle with it idling for, say, 5 minutes then the cloud of blue smoke can last all the way down the block. Then it goes away. Spark plugs are all clean. PCV valve recently replaced. Mo warning lights. What can this be?
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We have had a problem with our check engine light on our 2003 Mitsubishi Galant for a couple years. The light used to go on and off. Our mechanic ran the issue, checked it out, and said that it was not actually a problem with the engine but rather with the indicator light. The light was going off when there was not actually an issue. He told us it would cost about $500 to fix the problem. At the time, we decided it was not worth the money. Two months ago, we brought the car in for an oil change and the light was on. He ran the problem again, and again told us it was not a problem with the engine but with the light.
Unfortunately, it's time to get our car inspected, and the light is still on and has not gone off in two months. Since we did not want to risk getting a fine, we brought it in for the inspection, as as expected, the car failed. The inspector, a different mechanic (our regular mechanic does not do state inspections), said that our mechanic was probably wrong, that the lights do not just break and go off unexpectedly, and there is probably something wrong with the car instead.
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A few days ago my "Check VSC" warning came on along with the check engine and traction lights being on. I left my car in a parking garage for a week when I was on vacation and the lights came on once I started the car after getting back from my trip.
I have had the "Check VSC" warning before and I fixed it by replacing my gas cap. My gas cap seems fine this time around so I got my codes scanned and the only one that came up was P0300. Having this issue with the 2007 Lexus GS 350? I still feel like it's my gas cap because I bought a cheap replacement last time around.
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My Lexus was working fine till yesterday, but today when I started (button press) it, it started giving me a Check VSC error and Check engine light along with Slip Indicator started showing up
Took it to Autozone for the codes and got
P0015
P0304
C1201
B2799
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I have a 1997 Mitsubishi Galant with 134400 miles. Filled up the gas tank, driving home and the check engine light is on. Checked the fluids and found out that the engine oil is empty. Due for an oil change soon. Last mechanic used an expensive oil. Do expensive oils burn quickly? Mechanic said that cheaper oil change uses cheap oil...
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I loaned my car to a friend for 2 days. While driving, she allowed it to run out of gas. The check engine light came on as soon as gas was put into the tank and has never gone off. I now need to get inspected, but afraid it will not pass. Someone said to put "Garanteed To Pass" in the gas tank. I have never had any problems with this car. I am the original owner, and I keep the oil changed and the filter clean. The car runs perfectly with 120K miles! What should I do?
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My car's an 04 Mitsubishi Lancer ES, 4-cyl, 2.0L. So long story short, my check-engine light has been coming up every now and again for the last couple months with the code P0421, which a shop has confirmed I need a new manifold catalytic converter for (they ruled out any problems with O2 sensors).
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Two mechanics have told me that I need the valve cover gasket in my car replaced. I have all of the classic signs of needing one--the smoke coming from under the hood, the drops of oil on the pavement after the car is parked for a few minutes, etc. The problem is that I won't have the money until around Memorial Day. I drive about 300 miles a week. How desperate a repair is this, and what are the signs that I need to have it fixed immediately?
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