Mitsubishi - Montero :: 2002 - Vibrating Sound Coming Out Of Engine Area Like A Gear Trying To Catch
Sep 22, 2011
2002 Mitsubishi Montero Limited V6 ... Occasionally while slowing from 15 miles per hour to 5 miles per hour, i'll hear a vibrating sound coming out of the engine area like a gear trying to catch and then when i slow to 5 miles per hour, i hear a snap like it just caught or snapped into place and fixed itself. The car drives fine while this is happening, and at all other times. I have 125K miles on it and it has been well maintained. Originally i thought the sound was coming from the front right tire area and had the brakes and shocks/struts checked... The sound could be more centrally located though. What is that?
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there's a noise that sounds like a seagull coming from under the hood near the steering wheel. Turns out it's the vacuum brake accumulator & there was a recall on this. Unfortunately I had the part replaced back in 02, so Montero won't fix it a second time. I only use the vehicle on the weekends & didn't see any reduction in the brake performance so I put the repair off. That was over a year ago. How important is it to fix this? Other than the really odd noise there doesn't seem to be an issue.... I'm just trying to decide the future of my truck since the transfer case is gone & I can't use 4wd or AWD and more. That's been broken & flashing about a year too.. On top of that the AC is broken & now there's a light tapping noise whenever the car is in gear, but not in park.. I really love my truck but am losing hope. Everyone says it's not worth fixing. 140,000 miles.
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I own a 2002 Mitsubishi Montero Sport. I purchased the car 2 years ago, it appeared to be maintained well as it was like a new car and it has been running like dream car until now. I noticed what I believe to be a slipping transmission at the beginning of summer. It happened infrequently but still worries me nonetheless.
I get in my car early in the morning, drive down an alleyway and turn onto a side street, then I come to complete stop at the main street. I see no traffic and push on the accelerator to go and nothing happens for about 10-20 seconds, then it seems to catch, and I head on my merry way to work. Occasionally, it will start to go (just enough to coast me into traffic in a dangerous position) and then cut out and then catch again after the 10-20 seconds. If it happens, it is only at that moment in the day and no other.
I thought maybe it could be from sitting for awhile, but the car actually sits longer at work than at home. (I work too much. Local truck driver...) Whether this is of significance or not, it did not occur during the hottest few weeks of the summer, but other than that, it appears the transmission slips about 2-3 times per week. Could the colder morning temperatures affect anything? Could it be some sort of sediment stirred up in the morning that is clogging the filter?
I was thinking of taking it to the shop and getting it drained and the filter replaced. Would that most likely alleviate the problem?
The vehicle currently has 113,270 miles on it and I am not sure if the transmission fluid has ever been changed as I bought it used at a dealership.
I was reading [URL] and it said, "The old fluid was gritty due to metal shavings caused by normal internal wear and tear on the transmission clutches and was acting like liquid sandpaper. This "sandpaper" was producing the friction needed for the transmission to pull itself. When we changed the filter and replaced the old fluid with new fluid, the clutches inside the transmission had nothing to grab on to." Is this something I seriously need to be concerned about?
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While driving at highway speeds the "n" light on the gear shift starts flashing. This indicates that the automatic transmission is overheating, and that I should pull over to let it cool per the owners manual and a sticker on the drivers door. Which I do - I let it sit for about 5 mins and its ready to go again. However, this is inconvenient and has happened on numerous occasions. I have search all over the internet for a solution, and the only thing that seems to be the solution is to get a bigger pan?
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2002 Montero sport 3.5V6 , Miles: 130,000. Bought recently drove home over 2 hour drive no issues, Recent work: Timing belt (preemptive). All Serpentine belts, PCV valve (after timing belt job I noticed oil in exhaust)It gave a P0506 code and idling at 500 rpm after the timing belt job, found some oil in exhaust. Got the PCV valve replaced. That solved the oil in exhaust issue, but the code has come back. Drives ok, no issues, no smoke.I am going to clean the throttle body and install new air filter, today and take it on a highway drive (clean oil residue from cat). I had the timing belt work done at a very trusted place, but this time their game was not so good. Boss on vacation, new location and their work was somewhat careless not their usual style.
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Once in a while, the car won't even attempt to start. All you hear is a click, then one or two more tries and the car starts. When idling the knocking can be heard, or when I push the gas the knock can be heard. I was once told it could be that the spark plugs are going bad and it is causing an issue with the pistons. Every so often the knocking will go away completely. Also with the car not starting it is not like you hear the car try to start, it is just a click and nothing else.
Mitsubishi/Montero Sport 3.0 L 2003 .....
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I own a 1987 Mitsubishi Montero 2-door, 4x4, vin # JA7FJ23F9HJO30272 with a 5 speed manual transmission. It's powered by a family 2.6 T2FFC3 engine with CID 1.55.987.
My problem occurs quite sporadically, sometimes after driving 100 miles or so. Then, the engine starts missing as if you were turning the ignition off and on very quickly. Most often I have to limp back home by getting spurts of acceleration along with skipping.
Some technicians say the bushings are worn out in the distributors shaft housing and some other technicians state it may be a carburation problem. However, I am desperate for a solution to solve my problem, and possibly better my fuel economy to more than 12+/- miles per gallon.
Is this a common problem of these vehicles with high mileage? Do you have a solution to resolve my problem? My vehicle has 132,059 miles as of this writing.
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My 1998 Mitsu Montero Sport (2-wheel drive)has an automatic trans with L-2-D options. You can manually start in "Low" and go to "2" and then to "Drive, or just drive in D as usual. It also has an AT button for (auto traction) and a button for overdrive mode. PROBLEM: The car stopped shifting properly in the Drive mode. Intermittently it does not shift down to low, so I have to manually shift to Low and then to 2 or drive, etc. Everything else works fine except occaissionally in the Drive mode. I was told the "Check Engine" error was to replace the Transmission solenoids.
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We have a 2007 Mitsubishi Pajero (not sure the current equivalent in US, it used to be the Montero but I think they have since discontinued it). It's a great car. One rather annoying issue we are having with it at the moment...
The radio changes volume by itself. It goes up, it goes down, all on it's own without any input from us. Here are some observations:
- Only happens when the car is in motion, at a stand-still it is fine.
- Only happens when listening to radio, not CD player or DVD player.
The car does not have a "knob" for the volume, it is just buttons (rules out potentiometer thingy)
There are steering wheel controls, but the fact that the volume changes only happen when listening to the radio, and not CD, make me believe it's not those. Same with speed-sensitive volume controls. We have turned those off in the settings and it still does the same. Even with them on or off, the CD volume works as expected.
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Replaced battery and, when I did, the alarm went off. Tried to start suv while alarm going and totally dead. So I hit the remote to stop alarm and it still won't start or even turn over now. It barely turned over with old battery, but at least turned over, but after alarm, no clicking, no nothing.
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While driving my Montero sport last week, I began smelling a burning rubber smell from the air vents. At the same time I noticed, on the dashboard, that both the brake, and, battery indicators had lit up. There was no smoke, mist, or off sounds, coming from the engine, and, the engine seemed to be running no differently than before this occurred. I drove home, parked the car for 5 days, and, yesterday visually inspected what I could see, which was almost nothing unusual. I started the engine and let it run for about 10 minutes in park.
The engine ran normal, no noticeable knocks or pings, no shaking of the engine, the belts ran smooth, no noticeable leaks of any kind. I checked all fluids and they were at normal levels, only the power steering showed a slightly lower than mid level of fluid, not anywhere near low.line. But, as soon as I started the engine, the dashboard indicators lit up and stayed on. There was only a very faint smell of rubber at the end of the 10 minute running of the engine, barely noticeable. The only thing that I did different recently was about 2 weeks ago I added a quart Pennzoil high mileage motor oil 5-30 instead of the usual GTX high mileage motor oil 5-30 that I usually put in the engine, as there was none available at the store. The auto has ran very well for the past year.
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My lights, headlamps and interior lights, are going from normal to slightly dim in a rapid sequence. They pulse from normal to slightly dim. What could be causing this?
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Have a 1998 Mitsubishi Montero.
Best car I've ever owned. 184K miles, never once failed to start.
I was crushed to discover this spot of frame cancer on the driverside rear portion of the frame behind the rear wheel (attached images) .
Is this terminal?
Is it safe to drive and therefore potentially crash this vehicle?
Before the ground froze I dug a 10x18x10 foot deep hole in the backyard....
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I have a mysterious exhaust issue on my 1991 Montero. After the engine warms up and I have been stopped at a red light for a minute or so when I accelerate away from the light a cloud of blue (I assume oil) smoke puffs out of the exhaust pipe. If I sit in the vehicle with it idling for, say, 5 minutes then the cloud of blue smoke can last all the way down the block. Then it goes away. Spark plugs are all clean. PCV valve recently replaced. Mo warning lights. What can this be?
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I have a 2007 Hyundai Sonata 2.4l GLS. Staring to get an little noise from the engine about a few days ago. The noise what can only describe as a whirring sound and while in the cabin it sounds like it's coming from the right side and in the engine area, especially after a cold start and during acceleration. It is not very loud(have to turn stereo off to hear it and it only last for a couple of seconds as far as I know. My car now has about 240,000kms on it, and since the noise is coming from that area I am guessing it's a pulley of some sort. Serpentine belt was changed last year. What this noise is? I was thinking it might be the belt tensioner, probably should have changed it during my belt change.
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I own a 2004 Volvo S60 2.5T AWD. I have noticed that usually when I am driving and it starts to rain heavily, there is a loud siren sound coming from the engine area. This sound stays till it doesn't stop to rain. Also, if I don't step on the accelerator, the sound goes away. I have taken it to the dealership a couple of times but haven't been able to replicate the sound.
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I've had a used 2007 V6 Camry for about six months now.
I recently started noticing a quiet set of rapid clicks/clacks sound coming from engine compartment/firewall area more or less on driver side. I'm not sure if it was there all along or if I just began noticing it.
It occurs after starting the car, putting it in drive and as soon as I let off the brakes and begin rolling. It might only happen going forward. I will have to notice if it does it in reverse.
It happens rapidly and stops and I don't hear it again until I repeat the steps above after the car has sat a while. I don't believe it will do it again, if say, after doing it once I stop, put it into park and then back into drive and go.
I don't believe it's the CV joints. It does it once and stops and is not related to movement of the steering wheel. It almost reminds me of a relay switching something.
I'll also add that I had a 1995 Prizm and 2000 Corolla that did the same thing. Both were manual transmissions. The click they made was much louder though their cabins were not sealed as well as the Camry. The clicks would happen only after the car had sat a while as soon as the car first started rolling and then would stop. Could it be the same thing in all three cars?
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2002 Chevy Tahoe Z71 ... When I first turn my car on in the morning (or after an extended period of time - i.e. the car has completely cooled down) it makes a clicking / ticking noise that appears to be coming from the engine area. It lasts approximately 10 - 12 seconds and then simply goes away. This happens consistently. I recently had it serviced end-to-end: belts, plugs, total tune-up etc.
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Hyundai Elantra 01 GLS. The main problem is that the airbag light is on and stays on no matter what. This is my girlfriends old car and she tells me that a couple people told her it had something to do with a faulty/corroded connection or something like that... I have been working on this car for about a year and I am finally to the point where I am just ironing out the little kinks. The old engine was bad along with a lot of other stuff, and I swapped it out for a good motor with less miles on it.
I also have recently replaced the alternator and instrument cluster just to name a couple repairs. Now the two things that I want to get settled are the airbag light and the check engine light. The check engine light comes on sometimes and I am almost positive it either needs a new 02 sensor or cat since when it was ran through a code reader those were the two options my mechanic told me it could be. I also hear a gurgling/crackling faint sound coming from the drivers side dashboard/engine area. I am not sure what this is. How can I get the airbag light off ?
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I have an 2005 F250 4.2tdi XLT. There is a buzzing sound coming from somewhere near the fuel filter area in the engine bay. This started after changing the fuel filter during a service. Its also difficult to start now. It has to swing for 10 secs before the engine fires. What it could be?
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I've had my Galant since mid-May. I bought it in a rush as a replacement vehicle after a car accident. Soon after I noticed a damp/musty smell coming from the A/C. I read that changing the cabin air filter would fix the problem, but since the Galant doesn't have a cabin air filter, I had a dealer use a foaming cleaning agent that was supposed kill off any mold that may have been present in the A/C system, the cleaner seems to have fixed the damp smell.
Right before I had this done I noticed that the floorboards on the front passenger side were consistently damp. It's been that way for about a month, and the A/C continues to leak. Now I've noticed that for the past few days when I'm trying to defog the windshield on my morning commute, the heater is blowing cold air even thought the A/C is switched off. Are these these two problems related? Also, would I be able to repair them at home?
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