Mitsubishi - Mirage :: 2015 - Got Code P0068 Suddenly - Stalling - Now All Seems Well?
Nov 4, 2016
My 2015 Mitsubishi Mirage had a strange little incident the other day. I have posted this on the forum for these cars and as far as the people on that site know, I am the first to experience this exact issue. I also called the Mitsubishi dealer and they said this would be under warranty if it happened again. They said they had never experienced an issue like this in the Mirage either. Whatever this is isn't a common problem which is good and bad.
I was pulling out into traffic and then there was a sudden momentary loss of power and then power returned. The check engine and traction control light were on. I pulled into another parking lot and when I came out, the check engine light was on but the traction light was off. I put the car in reverse to backup and it stalled. There was an Autozone across the street so I took it over there and had the code read. The P0068 appears to be a mismatch in input from the MAF, MAP, or TPS sensors.
I was low on gas but not that low so I went across the street to a gas station. While the car was filling up opened the hood and unplugged/replugged any wiring connectors going to sensors around the intake and manifold, wondering if it was a bad connection. The car took about 7.5 gallon of gas. These hold like 9.2 gallons or something.
I got in and started the car and there was no more check engine light. I hadn't cleared the code so that wasn't why. Anyway, I have been driving the car like normal the past 3 days with no repeats of the behavior.
I figure that a connector might have been loose from the factory or after the repairs from when I hit a deer a few months back. The car sustained front end and side damage so maybe something wasn't plugged in snug enough after the work.
I guess I could have had a bad tank of gas and was starting to suck moisture or something. I would have thought that would have triggered a misfire or something so my guess leans to a loose connection. The CEL went away immediately when I started the car. The new tank of gas would have at least taken several seconds to have any impact.
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This car has the 1.5 liter 12 valve motor and a five speed transmission. Ran pretty good until a few days ago when it died. the next day it started up and ran ok for about a half a block and then I had to pump the gas to keep it running. I had bought gas at a dinky budget station that I had never been to before so I suspected bad gas and I put in a new fuel filter which did not work. I then put some Seafoam additive in. After I got it started I revved it up a bit to try and clear things out and then let it idle for an hour or so.
The engine smoothed right out and didn't idle rough but did not start after I turned it off. I pulled a plug wire, put in a bolt and tested for spark against the valve cover. Not even a weak spark, nothing. I looked for the coil but there is no coil and I am told that the coil is in the distributor. I also saw a reference online about the crankshaft sensor possibly being the culprit. What a crankshaft sensor looks like and the engine compartment is so crowded with hoses, wires and all kinds of things it is real hard to see anything from above.
I am wondering if the coil is bad do you have to get a whole distributor ( I was quoted a price of $269 for a new one) or can you take it out of the distributor and replace just the coil.I have a brand new 154 piece Craftsman tool kit, but I am 62 years old and back when I learned how to work on cars it was a lot simpler. Now when I open a hood about half the stuff there is unfamiliar to me. My other vehicle (Chevy C20 van) is not running that great and gets awful gas mileage. The battery is new and I have never ran out of gas with this car, so they are not suspect.
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91 Mirage starts and runs ok but usually will not start again after warming up. What are the possible causes and how do I check to eliminate dead end cures.
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Got a 1997 Mitsubishi Mirage with this code 0420. Only had car a while. It has always had a hesitation accompanied by the CEL coming on and then going out. Might happen twice a trip and then not occur for weeks. Previous owner said they failed an emissions because he cleared a set code(not told to me). The car dives fine and gas mileage seems to be fine. Car does use about a quart of oil over a 3000 mile oil change. It also has/had a rattle similar to an exhaust baffle...the rattle is not an every trip occurrence either.
Had Autozone check for code and was told catalytic converter needed to be replaced. There are no emissions in my state but I would like to know any opinions on my problem and any issues with driving car without repair. I think I want to clear code by disconnecting battery cable and see if it returns but not that would be a good idea. Also considered buying a scan tool with live data to see if there is another issue that might not involve replacing the catalytic converter. Previous owner also mentioned a hissing when removing gas cap and he bought another cap but the I still notice the hissing.
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My 2000 Mirage (with 145,000 miles) no longer stays in 2nd gear. Due to the age of the car I do not want to replace the transmission but I would like to get a few more months out of the car. For now I am just shifting from 1st to 3rd. My questions are;
(1) Is there anything I can do short or replacing the transmission to get 2nd gear back,
(2) if I don't do anything to fix the transmission is there any reason I should not continue skipping 2nd gear until something else breaks and
(3) is there anything I should do like flush the transmission to try to extend its life?
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I can not resolve a rough idle in gear when engine is warm problem. I've replaced plugs, wires, mounts, isc, o2 sensor, ecu, have no codes.
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I have a 2000 Mitsubishi Mirage. I've been having issues with judder. I first mentioned it to a mechanic late last spring, but they said the rotors and pads were fine, so I let it be, and the judder got gradually worse, until I brought it in again a couple weeks ago and got new front rotors (the rotors were warped at that point, and barely within spec). But as I left the mechanic's, I realized that the judder had not gone away, it had just changed, and become more pronounced. (Yes, I should have gone right back in to the mechanic, but I was peeved that the problem was still there, and sleep deprived from working 3rd shift.)
The judder is most noticeable when I am stopping in town. The car behaves as if I'm stomping on the brake repeatedly; the brakes are grabbing and releasing, grabbing and releasing. Until the past week, this has meant that my head bobs front and back a bit as I stop. In the past week though, it feels like there is a tiny bit of side-to-side movement developing, too. The steering wheel does not shake, and I can't feel anything unusual in the pedal.(Also, if it matters, the tires were rotated about a week before the rotors were replaced.)
What could the issue be here? Should I take it back to the shop and ask them to undo and redo the lug nuts by hand, since I've read that overtightening, or tightening in the wrong order, could be an issue? Should I ask them if they test run-out when they install rotors? Should I go to a different mechanic? The mechanic I went to is a local large operation with a decent reputation, but... I've gotten some conflicting information from them, depending on who I talk to. Also, should the pads have been replaced along with the rotors? They're at around 70%.
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I'm sure this popping sound coming from both sides of the front wheels is a serious problem because it happened to my dad's car before. The only thing is that i want to fix it before it gets serious and pops off one day while I'm driving.When ever i turn, about 95% if not 100% of the time, i would hear the popping sound from one side of the front wheel. I want to know how much it usually takes to fix and if its possible for me to fix it myself with almost no knowledge of fixing cars.
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Details. I was driving my car yesterday. It stop as i gave it fuel to go around a corner.Its a 95 mitsubishi mirage s manufacture october 94 in japan. Its a manual turned the key. Nothing but cranking and flooding. My friend came to take a look at it. no spark.I smelled fuel and have still almost half a tank which mean its pumping but no spark came from the ignition wire.I have replaced the rotor and am waiting on new ignition wires and distro cap. When i took off the distro cap I didn't see any visible cracks.
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I'm writing to ask a question about my 1997 Mitsubishi Mirage. It has 98,000 miles on it. I had my transmission fluid changed at my regular shop about six months (2,000 miles) ago.
For the past six to eight weeks, I have noticed that a light grinding sound comes from the bottom of the engine compartment. This sound happens briefly, for about 0.5 to 1.0 seconds, when the transmission shifts from first to second. I can try to find previous maintenance records if it's relevant.
My question is, is it worth it to change the transmission fluid again? Is it possible that will take care of this? Are there any homeopathic cures?
I will note that the owner's manual calls for "Mitsubishi Diamond ATF SP-II." The shop didn't have it, so I recommended a Valvoline ATF designed for imports, based on some searching?
So a second question is, would it be worth it to take this to the Mitsubishi dealer to get the official fluid?
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I just bought a used automatic MM with 137k miles. Engine and interior super clean. I did test drive and it seemed to pull back a bit and rev harder when I was starting out from a stop or in intermittent traffic where I was slowing down and speeding up with flow of traffic. It also does it worse on hills. The guy from the car lot said it was the way I was driving the car...hmmmm...I'm not a lead foot. I let the car ease into higher speeds, I don't punch it. Ever.
Yesterday I took a longer drive and had other people in the car with me who also noticed the rough transitions between low gears and asked if that was "normal." NOT being a car mechanic I get alarmed when others are pointing something I too thought could be at issue. I bought the car "as is" after doing some online research and finding out that these car's even at this age get 4.5 to 5 star ratings from people who have them.
I took it to Auto Zone and they put the little code reader on the car but no codes came up. His suggestion was to have all the fluids changed in case someone put the wrong weight of transmission fluid in the car. I did check the fluid at the car lot and it was bright pink and at correct levels. Not sure that's what it is. He also suggested the possibility of it being a "shift cellinoid"?
I don't know what that is but he said it shouldn't be expensive to fix. He also suggested getting the transmission serviced to see if that might solve it. Someone else suggested "clean the IAC hole and throttle plate with choke cleaner..." don't know what that is? Someone else said to consider a vacuum leak in the fresh air tube between the air filter box and the throttle body...these are all just guesses.
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I own a 1998 Mitsubishi Mirage with about 190,000 miles on it. The engine light has started coming on and I get three codes:
P0170 Fuel Trim Bank 1P0136 Oxygen Sensor Bank 1 Sensor 2P0301 Cylinder 1 misfire
Read more: [URL] ....
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Got a CEL a couple days ago and had it scanned by the dealer. Threw two codes:
p0068 - throttle position correlation
p0101 - mass or volume air flow circuit range performance intermittent
The dealer thought the MAF was dying or dead. I replaced it with a Bosch one from ECS Tuning this afternoon. I went for a test drive around the block but it seems that the problem persists. The idling seems rough, almost like there is a misfire or something. Perhaps on a related note I am still running the original battery that came with the car. I asked the dealer about the battery when they checked the MAF and they said the voltage was low and they recommended replacing it before winter. Is it possible that the battery is dying and it's throwing these two codes?
The service manager said to drive it a few days to see if the CEL clears itself or have it cleared (they can do it or I can do it via borrowing someone's VCDS). I'm tempted to just go and get another battery tonight and install it and see if that's the problem.
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I have a 2001 Elantra with 126k miles. For months it's been randomly hesitating, meaning I'll be riding along and suddenly the gas pedal will do nothing...then about 3 seconds later, VROOOM, the gas pedal will start working again. Recently, it's started stalling as well.
I've already replaced the MAP sensor, input speed sensor, throttle position sensor, spark plugs, wires, and coil pack. Nothing has worked, but it is getting progressively worse (it stalls more frequently, and the gas pedal becomes suddenly unresponsive more often).
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I have a 2.7L flex fuel Dodge Stratus with 120K+ miles on it and a problem local mechanics and the Dodge dealership cannot seem to locate. When the engine is hot, and only when it's hot, the car will jerk suddenly while driving for a split second, then resume normal operations. It feels almost like you hit something and is scaring the bejeesus out of my wife. It also sometimes stalls out when at a light after sitting at idle for a few seconds. It idles down from 600 RPM like the air conditioning compressor is cutting on and then dies completely.
The car shows no error codes and the check engine light does not come on when this happens. I have replaced the spark plugs, and the transmission solenoid, which is what the Dodge dealer said "fixed" the car for almost $900, and it did it again on the way home from the dealership. My next idea was to change the fuel filter, or maybe the cam position sensor or timing belt or chain. I wonder if I am just trowing money down a hole at this point though, since Kelly Blue Book on this car is under 2K anyway.
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So i have a 2005 Sonata GLS and it has been giving me issues. A week or so ago, the 'check engine' came on so I took it to the shop to have it fix. Problem fix, no more light popping up. Now two days ago, the car all of a sudden started stalling and hesitating while I was driving. I kept pressing the gas and the car will accelerate to 40 before slowing down to 20 and the acceleration will then drop as well. I had a mechanic look at the issue and he said it was the throttle position sensor. He changed the sensor and its still acting up. He said to buy the carburetor cleaner and it worked fine for a hour until we drove it again. The problem is still not fix.
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Weeks ago, I was waiting for someone with my car idling and suddenly it just stalled. The battery power was still on but the engine died. When I restart it, it starts up but then dies after a few seconds. After trying 3-4 times it no longer starts. I had it towed to the repair shop and by the time they went to look at it, it started up just fine. A few days later I was driving (like 1 min from my house) and the car engine died, again the battery was still working. Power steering was gone. I coasted off the road and tried to start it--again it would start up and then die and then after a few tries it no longer starts. I had it brought to the repair shop. Again, it started fine for them but they changed out the battery just to see. I also had fuel cleaner put in the gas tank.
Just to be safe, I brought it to a dealer since my normal mechanic couldn't find anything. At the dealership they ran codes and didn't find any. They said that sometime the lines to the cams or crank get corroded but that mine looked fine. Since it wasn't doing it for them, they didn't have any other recommendations. Everything has been fine for the last few weeks and then I went to start my car last night. It started fine even though it's really cold and hasn't been driven in a few days. While I was scraping the car, I could hear the engine turn off. When I re-started it the same pattern happened--restarted the first few times and then died and then wouldn't even start. I don't even know what to do at this point since it only seems to happen close or at home and not for repair places.
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Heading for a long weekend trip, went to pass a car on the highway and rpms went up and the car wouldn't go above 70, the car just stuttered. I pulled over and shut it off, and then it was fine. It was good the rest of the trip. On the way to the store today, it did the same thing around 35 mph today, restarted and it was fine again. t only has 9K on it.
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I am driving a 2015 Sonata with 20,000km (13,000 miles) and the temperature light suddenly came on. I stopped and checked things and could find nothing wrong (oil and coolant OK). I was close to home (less than 1 mile) so drove until light came on again then stopped until it cooled a bit and then home. I thought it must have been the sensor because engine definitely did not appear to be hot.
Once in the garage, I inspected things a little closer and noticed a destroyed serpentine belt--ripped to shreds. Not sure what caused it, but that was the problem. I was afraid of a coolant leak which would have been more serious.
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Today when I was driving my car on the highway suddenly i saw the service engine soon warning, so many times i restarted the engine but its not working. After that I went to the service center and they said the code PO171, it might be oxygen sensory.
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2002 Montero sport 3.5V6 , Miles: 130,000. Bought recently drove home over 2 hour drive no issues, Recent work: Timing belt (preemptive). All Serpentine belts, PCV valve (after timing belt job I noticed oil in exhaust)It gave a P0506 code and idling at 500 rpm after the timing belt job, found some oil in exhaust. Got the PCV valve replaced. That solved the oil in exhaust issue, but the code has come back. Drives ok, no issues, no smoke.I am going to clean the throttle body and install new air filter, today and take it on a highway drive (clean oil residue from cat). I had the timing belt work done at a very trusted place, but this time their game was not so good. Boss on vacation, new location and their work was somewhat careless not their usual style.
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