Mitsubishi - Mirage :: 1991 Won't Start After Being Warmed Up
Dec 8, 2012
This car has the 1.5 liter 12 valve motor and a five speed transmission. Ran pretty good until a few days ago when it died. the next day it started up and ran ok for about a half a block and then I had to pump the gas to keep it running. I had bought gas at a dinky budget station that I had never been to before so I suspected bad gas and I put in a new fuel filter which did not work. I then put some Seafoam additive in. After I got it started I revved it up a bit to try and clear things out and then let it idle for an hour or so.
The engine smoothed right out and didn't idle rough but did not start after I turned it off. I pulled a plug wire, put in a bolt and tested for spark against the valve cover. Not even a weak spark, nothing. I looked for the coil but there is no coil and I am told that the coil is in the distributor. I also saw a reference online about the crankshaft sensor possibly being the culprit. What a crankshaft sensor looks like and the engine compartment is so crowded with hoses, wires and all kinds of things it is real hard to see anything from above.
I am wondering if the coil is bad do you have to get a whole distributor ( I was quoted a price of $269 for a new one) or can you take it out of the distributor and replace just the coil.I have a brand new 154 piece Craftsman tool kit, but I am 62 years old and back when I learned how to work on cars it was a lot simpler. Now when I open a hood about half the stuff there is unfamiliar to me. My other vehicle (Chevy C20 van) is not running that great and gets awful gas mileage. The battery is new and I have never ran out of gas with this car, so they are not suspect.
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91 Mirage starts and runs ok but usually will not start again after warming up. What are the possible causes and how do I check to eliminate dead end cures.
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Details. I was driving my car yesterday. It stop as i gave it fuel to go around a corner.Its a 95 mitsubishi mirage s manufacture october 94 in japan. Its a manual turned the key. Nothing but cranking and flooding. My friend came to take a look at it. no spark.I smelled fuel and have still almost half a tank which mean its pumping but no spark came from the ignition wire.I have replaced the rotor and am waiting on new ignition wires and distro cap. When i took off the distro cap I didn't see any visible cracks.
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Got a 1997 Mitsubishi Mirage with this code 0420. Only had car a while. It has always had a hesitation accompanied by the CEL coming on and then going out. Might happen twice a trip and then not occur for weeks. Previous owner said they failed an emissions because he cleared a set code(not told to me). The car dives fine and gas mileage seems to be fine. Car does use about a quart of oil over a 3000 mile oil change. It also has/had a rattle similar to an exhaust baffle...the rattle is not an every trip occurrence either.
Had Autozone check for code and was told catalytic converter needed to be replaced. There are no emissions in my state but I would like to know any opinions on my problem and any issues with driving car without repair. I think I want to clear code by disconnecting battery cable and see if it returns but not that would be a good idea. Also considered buying a scan tool with live data to see if there is another issue that might not involve replacing the catalytic converter. Previous owner also mentioned a hissing when removing gas cap and he bought another cap but the I still notice the hissing.
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My 2000 Mirage (with 145,000 miles) no longer stays in 2nd gear. Due to the age of the car I do not want to replace the transmission but I would like to get a few more months out of the car. For now I am just shifting from 1st to 3rd. My questions are;
(1) Is there anything I can do short or replacing the transmission to get 2nd gear back,
(2) if I don't do anything to fix the transmission is there any reason I should not continue skipping 2nd gear until something else breaks and
(3) is there anything I should do like flush the transmission to try to extend its life?
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I can not resolve a rough idle in gear when engine is warm problem. I've replaced plugs, wires, mounts, isc, o2 sensor, ecu, have no codes.
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I have a 2000 Mitsubishi Mirage. I've been having issues with judder. I first mentioned it to a mechanic late last spring, but they said the rotors and pads were fine, so I let it be, and the judder got gradually worse, until I brought it in again a couple weeks ago and got new front rotors (the rotors were warped at that point, and barely within spec). But as I left the mechanic's, I realized that the judder had not gone away, it had just changed, and become more pronounced. (Yes, I should have gone right back in to the mechanic, but I was peeved that the problem was still there, and sleep deprived from working 3rd shift.)
The judder is most noticeable when I am stopping in town. The car behaves as if I'm stomping on the brake repeatedly; the brakes are grabbing and releasing, grabbing and releasing. Until the past week, this has meant that my head bobs front and back a bit as I stop. In the past week though, it feels like there is a tiny bit of side-to-side movement developing, too. The steering wheel does not shake, and I can't feel anything unusual in the pedal.(Also, if it matters, the tires were rotated about a week before the rotors were replaced.)
What could the issue be here? Should I take it back to the shop and ask them to undo and redo the lug nuts by hand, since I've read that overtightening, or tightening in the wrong order, could be an issue? Should I ask them if they test run-out when they install rotors? Should I go to a different mechanic? The mechanic I went to is a local large operation with a decent reputation, but... I've gotten some conflicting information from them, depending on who I talk to. Also, should the pads have been replaced along with the rotors? They're at around 70%.
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I'm sure this popping sound coming from both sides of the front wheels is a serious problem because it happened to my dad's car before. The only thing is that i want to fix it before it gets serious and pops off one day while I'm driving.When ever i turn, about 95% if not 100% of the time, i would hear the popping sound from one side of the front wheel. I want to know how much it usually takes to fix and if its possible for me to fix it myself with almost no knowledge of fixing cars.
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My 2015 Mitsubishi Mirage had a strange little incident the other day. I have posted this on the forum for these cars and as far as the people on that site know, I am the first to experience this exact issue. I also called the Mitsubishi dealer and they said this would be under warranty if it happened again. They said they had never experienced an issue like this in the Mirage either. Whatever this is isn't a common problem which is good and bad.
I was pulling out into traffic and then there was a sudden momentary loss of power and then power returned. The check engine and traction control light were on. I pulled into another parking lot and when I came out, the check engine light was on but the traction light was off. I put the car in reverse to backup and it stalled. There was an Autozone across the street so I took it over there and had the code read. The P0068 appears to be a mismatch in input from the MAF, MAP, or TPS sensors.
I was low on gas but not that low so I went across the street to a gas station. While the car was filling up opened the hood and unplugged/replugged any wiring connectors going to sensors around the intake and manifold, wondering if it was a bad connection. The car took about 7.5 gallon of gas. These hold like 9.2 gallons or something.
I got in and started the car and there was no more check engine light. I hadn't cleared the code so that wasn't why. Anyway, I have been driving the car like normal the past 3 days with no repeats of the behavior.
I figure that a connector might have been loose from the factory or after the repairs from when I hit a deer a few months back. The car sustained front end and side damage so maybe something wasn't plugged in snug enough after the work.
I guess I could have had a bad tank of gas and was starting to suck moisture or something. I would have thought that would have triggered a misfire or something so my guess leans to a loose connection. The CEL went away immediately when I started the car. The new tank of gas would have at least taken several seconds to have any impact.
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I'm writing to ask a question about my 1997 Mitsubishi Mirage. It has 98,000 miles on it. I had my transmission fluid changed at my regular shop about six months (2,000 miles) ago.
For the past six to eight weeks, I have noticed that a light grinding sound comes from the bottom of the engine compartment. This sound happens briefly, for about 0.5 to 1.0 seconds, when the transmission shifts from first to second. I can try to find previous maintenance records if it's relevant.
My question is, is it worth it to change the transmission fluid again? Is it possible that will take care of this? Are there any homeopathic cures?
I will note that the owner's manual calls for "Mitsubishi Diamond ATF SP-II." The shop didn't have it, so I recommended a Valvoline ATF designed for imports, based on some searching?
So a second question is, would it be worth it to take this to the Mitsubishi dealer to get the official fluid?
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I just bought a used automatic MM with 137k miles. Engine and interior super clean. I did test drive and it seemed to pull back a bit and rev harder when I was starting out from a stop or in intermittent traffic where I was slowing down and speeding up with flow of traffic. It also does it worse on hills. The guy from the car lot said it was the way I was driving the car...hmmmm...I'm not a lead foot. I let the car ease into higher speeds, I don't punch it. Ever.
Yesterday I took a longer drive and had other people in the car with me who also noticed the rough transitions between low gears and asked if that was "normal." NOT being a car mechanic I get alarmed when others are pointing something I too thought could be at issue. I bought the car "as is" after doing some online research and finding out that these car's even at this age get 4.5 to 5 star ratings from people who have them.
I took it to Auto Zone and they put the little code reader on the car but no codes came up. His suggestion was to have all the fluids changed in case someone put the wrong weight of transmission fluid in the car. I did check the fluid at the car lot and it was bright pink and at correct levels. Not sure that's what it is. He also suggested the possibility of it being a "shift cellinoid"?
I don't know what that is but he said it shouldn't be expensive to fix. He also suggested getting the transmission serviced to see if that might solve it. Someone else suggested "clean the IAC hole and throttle plate with choke cleaner..." don't know what that is? Someone else said to consider a vacuum leak in the fresh air tube between the air filter box and the throttle body...these are all just guesses.
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I own a 1998 Mitsubishi Mirage with about 190,000 miles on it. The engine light has started coming on and I get three codes:
P0170 Fuel Trim Bank 1P0136 Oxygen Sensor Bank 1 Sensor 2P0301 Cylinder 1 misfire
Read more: [URL] ....
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About 3 months ago I threw the timing belt on my 2001 Mits Galant ES 2.4L 4cyl. I replaced the belt and 8 valves; costed me a pretty penny. Since that time I was having Idle problems. The Throttle assembly with the Idle Control valve was replaced. I have Cruise control. The car was started, it warmed up and then shut off. Attempts to keep car running on its own have failed. Is it a programming problem? Is it the computer? No codes are returned.
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I have a 1991 Mitsubishi Mighty Max 3.0, and it is giving me some trouble. If the MAF sensor is plugged in the RPM's surge up and down, anywhere from 600-2000. If you unplug the MAF sensor it runs smoothly around 1600 RPM. I put in a brand new MAF sensor and that didn't change anything at all. Everybody I talk to says it must have a vacuum leak?
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My wife has a Mitsubishi 91 Eclipse with an with a 1.8 liter engine and automatic that periodically bucks and surges, especially noticeable under load like going uphill but can occur during straight line highway driving. After doing a complete tuneup, changing the throttle position sensor, O2 sensor, having both the ecu and tcu rebuilt, check all vacuum lines, replaced ignition wires, replaced fuel pressure regulator and checking fuel pressure, replaced injectors,checking all electrical sensors and connections, etc. etc. I, nor professional mechanics, cannot determine what may be causing this condition. At this point I'm thinking either the fuel tank needs removal and cleaning or its the fuel pump, coil, ignition switch, or torque converter. Here's a clue... I'm finding an oily substance on the pavement that appears to be coming from the transmission area. It doesn't appear to be ATF nor oil. I'm suspecting the torque converter is leaking.
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91 olds cutlas supreme with about 70,000 miles has a miss - when cold runs fine warms up then does not want to idle and has a surge feeling but at highway speed do not notice it. Plugs are clean, spark wires changed 8,000 miles back . Could it be a coil pack failing?
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I have a 91 Celica that has a strange transmission problem. She hates the cold weather. No joke, she drives GREAT in the warm weather. But when its cold, she refuses to change into the highest gear until she feels like she's warmed up enough. But even then, she will randomly downshift again (all other things like speed, elevation, etc. constant.) When that happens, the RPMs (obviously) jump up. I always try to slow down when that happens, and eventually (5-7 minutes later) she shifts back into the appropriate gear.
I've owned it less than two years and have done A LOT of work on it. I am hoping to upgrade with a vehicle from a family member, and actually have the Celica for sale (and I hate selling cars......I don't think $1400 is too much for her!) Only 133,000 miles as she sat for a LONG time before I got her. I got all the kinks worked out except this transmission issue. Everyone I've talked to is stumped. And other than the "cold" issue, she shifts beautifully. I've been told to NOT flush or change the fluid at this point, so I haven't done that, but it's full.
I don't know if it's related, but the temperature gauge very rarely makes it off the 'C' mark. Sometimes when I'm idling it will climb to a whopping 15-20%, but generally it lives at or below the 'C.' I have never seen it at or above 50%.
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I have a 91 Mitsubishi gto TT. I love my car and i was really hoping to repaint it soon but this problem is becoming more apparent. My car runs fine for the first 15 minutes, runs like a beauty! but then once it is warmed up it starts to struggle. I cant accelerate hard because it hesitates alot. The problem im having is pin pointing the problem. Ive searched a lot of stuff on the web and some people have similar problems.
Could it be bad spark plugs and wires causing some cylinders not to run properly? If so then why does does it run fine for the first 10-15 minutes?
I'll probably have my plugs and wires changed to see if that changes anything.
I just dont understand why my car accelerates great when cold but when hot starts to run sluggish.
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A cold engine crank will turnover and start normally. But stop to run and errand or grab lunch...and the warm 302 2 barrel engine will turn over very sluggishly, lke the battery is dying. If you wait until the engine is cool, an easy start is assured but that takes hours! A local repair shop has rebuilt the carb, the battery & cables are new, and the starter works fine when engine is cold. My local repair shop is out of suggestions. It seems to work a little to hold the gas pedal down on the floor for a warm engine start....but engine still turns over sluggishly when trying to start when warm. Now If I drive it.....I just drive it around town a bit then back home ...unless I stay several hours somewhere while the engine cools....but that's not fun. It is a convertible, fun to drive...and this problem needs to be solved.
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I have 91 camry that when you go to start it, it turns over then makes a chugging/choking sound and wont start. battery is good bc the radio/lights/etc come on, and i can put everything into gear. Its about 35 degrees here so im hoping that it may just be needing some antifreeze which is on the way.
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Have a 2000 grand marquis that will not start after it gets warmed up. Recently had two occasions where after driving for about half hour and it's shut off, it will not start. Cranks good, but will not start. After it "cools down" it will start. Have had it to my mechanic and the dealership. They can't find anything??? They say it has to get worse before they can make it better. They don't want to start throwing parts like fuel pumps at it.
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