Mitsubishi - Lancer :: CEL Is On For Evaporative Emission System Very Small Leak


Mar 29, 2015

I have a 2006 Mitsubishi Lancer and CEL is on, I got the code checked and its showing P0456 ("Evaporative emission system very small leak"). They recommended that I replace the gas cap, but I already tried that without luck. I have heard that the tubes in the system go bad and need replacing. I know some are located behind the back wheel but I wanted to give the ones under the hood a visual inspection so I have some clue when I take it for a repair.

My trouble is that I don't know what tubes I'm looking at! But I have some pictures, so at least we have that!

So the first one is zoomed out of the engine (obvious right?), just so you can see where everything is going. The hose I'm suspect of is the one that's to the left of the motor oil cap, the one I'm holding in the second picture. If you can see it, there's a split running down for about 6" -10"

What I'd like to know is did I assume right that this is (at least one) of the hoses causing my trouble with the evap system? And if it's not, which ones should I be checking out?

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Chevrolet - Equinox :: Check Engine Light Is On For Evaporative Emission System Leak Detected

I have a 2008 Chevy Equinox, and recently I noticed a gas smell...I saw Chevy had a special policy to replace the fuel pump module, so I took it to the dealership hoping that would be the problem. Fortunately it was, and they replaced it for free. I got my car back Thursday afternoon, drove it Friday, and it sat yesterday without being driven. This morning I drove to the grocery store, and on the way home my check engine light came on. I have an ODBII scanner, so I plugged it in and got this code:

P0455: Evaporative Emission System Leak Detected (gross leak/no flow)

So I was wondering: (1) what is the cause and/or solution to this problem, and (2) is it possible the dealership caused this problem when they replaced my fuel pump module?

It seems awfully coincidental not to be related to the repair, since it is a fuel system problem, but I don't know enough about cars to be sure...

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Passat (B7) :: Evaporative Emission System Leak Detection Pump Sense Circuit Intermittent / Erratic

My 2.5L is throwing a check engine light with only 5000ish miles?!

P2407 - Powertrain - Auxiliary Emission Controls - "Evaporative Emission System Leak Detection Pump Sense Circuit Intermittent/Erratic"

I did a quick google search and apparently it MAY be due to a loose gas filler cap. I tightened it and drove around the block. Still on...

And (from the google search), this code isn't common with VWs.. (in fact, couldn't find a single VW with this code?).

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I own a 98 f-150 5.4 with 70,000 miles. I get a check engine light (code p0455-large leak detected in evaporative emission control system).

Replaced the gas cap with an after market 'stant' ( I believe was the manufacturer) brand. The check engine light went away for 4 days then came on again.

No obvious vacuum line leaks.... Puzzled.

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Now I will need to get that fixed cause I don't know where to look and what to look for ... For the leak I know there is a big crack on the plastic where the gas lid is could that be it ?

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We are selling the girlfriends 01 Passat. I pulled the codes tonight for a long standing check engine light knowing it had one of the 02 sensors bad. Here are the three codes I received from the scanner:

P0130 - 02 Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank I Sensor 1)

P0455 - Evaporative emission control leak detected (large)

P0441 Evaporative Emission Control System Incorrect Purge Flow

So is it one thing causing all three or are there common things to look at. We can't really afford to go replacing all the emission system sensors and hoses etc. in hopes of finding the right piece. Gas cap is screwed on tight and codes were cleared a couple times to make sure.

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I have a 2009 ford f150 4.6l 3v v8 standard cab with about 53k miles on it.

Recently the check engine light came on so i went to autozone to have the codes pulled for free, it says i have a small evaporative leak.

They said may be the gas cap, but the thing is, i have a quick fill cap that came in stock with truck so the gas cap isnt even needed.

I've looked under the hood, and noticed that there is little pool of oil on top of the valley of the engine on the passenger side of the engine, could it possibly be the PCV hose that is bad and be related to the evaporative leak code? or its unrelated and i have a bad gasket for the valve cover?

It isn't affecting the performance of the engine,.. yet. I have a road trip for my work coming up very soon and i wanted to try to fix it before then.

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Threw this code p0442 evap emission control small leak. I see its a popular code to have....

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Mazda :: 2004 - Engine Code Reading P2402 - Evaporative System Leak High Discharge

I have had issues for over a week now first problem check engine light not sure of the code but the mechanic said it was the spark plugs and vaccum leak hose (which I knew about the hose). $205.00 later replaced all 6 plugs and hose. Now today on way to work I'm getting that hesitation when in lower gear such as stopping and then accelerating it jerks some it was doing this alot before replacing the plugs.

We did a diagnostic code reader and it said the code P2402 I did read it could be my gas cap which I don't have a dealer gas cap on there now I did about 1 yr 1/2 ago but got a lock key gas cap instead. I have been doing some reading I would need to replace leak detection pump which apparently costly in repair.

BTW car has 119,000 miles I commute far from work 5 days a week. My car is very important part of my life! I did also read someone stated there was a recall on Mazda 6 wondering do I need to call the dealership to see if this is actual recall and I can cross my fingers get this fixed on them.

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Mitsubishi - Lancer :: 2002 - AC Won't Working - SEL / SRS Came On?

I have a 2002 Lancer with just over 150K miles. So far, he's been pretty solid. He starts when I want him to and stops when he is supposed to. Last summer his A/C started acting up a bit. When I am in stop-and-go city traffic, everything is fine. As soon as I get on the highway and am cruising at any speed for more than 15 minutes, the A/C stops blowing cold air and just blows as if I just had the fan on, but not the A/C. If I slow down and then accelerate pretty quickly and can make him shift through a few gears, the A/C will kick back in. At first I just thought I was getting some attitude from him (his name is Miles - pretty clever for a car name, huh?) because I moved him from NW Arkansas to the Gulf Coast and he didn't like the heat and wanted me to know it. I took him in for a standard oil change and had the mechanic run an A/C diagnostic. I didn't tell him of any problem I was having because I thought it might work itself out (stranger things may have happened). He told me everything looked good: good compression, blowing at 41 degrees, something else I forgot...anyway Miles passed his A/C test.

The mechanic did tell me that the battery would need to be changed soon. Well in my highly-trained mechanic mind (I have a degree in Art History; that tells you how vast my knowledge is about all things with engines), I thought, "OK, when I replace this battery, that'll give the A/C some more power and everything will be hunky dory.? Not quite. He's still having the same problem. So my next thought was that maybe a fan belt could be slipping or stretching when I'm maintaining a constant speed. Maybe? Occasionally all the backlit instruments lose their lighting. They all come back on, but it doesn't coincide with the timing of the A/C issues. The "Service Engine Soon" light has been on for a while and the "SRS" light will come on every now and again, but that doesn't jive with the A/C timing either. But, that's the story of Miles.I'd like to keep him for another 150K if possible.

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I own a Mitsubishi Lancer 2005 model, From the past recent days I feel some kind of missing with the car, when we try to accelerate it. It seems to be some kind of fuel injection issues. I think doing a fuel injection service would be better. I didn't have much knowledge about car repair.

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i have a 2004 Mitsubishi lancer es 2.0 engine, and it's an automatic. I seem to consistently get a little under 23 mpg no matter how i drive. I've noticed that when going down the highway at 65 mph, it is at like 2900 RPM, is this normal? We also own a 2010 toyota corolla 1.8 auto and it only revs like 2400, and a 2005 xB that revs the same as the corolla, i'm just confused that with a bigger engine, it would rev so much higher.

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Mitsubishi - Lancer :: 2002 - Electrical Circuits Malfunction

I'm really puzzled by the electrical issue I'm having with my wife's 2002 Mitsubishi Lancer. It's got a 120,000 miles and we've owned it since new. It has had almost zero problems up until this point.

The other day, my wife calls and says that her A/C isn't working, it's just blowing hot air. When she got home, she turned the car off, removed her key, and noticed that the climate control blower was running. She turned it off and went inside. She had the radio on.

When I came home, I verified that with no key in the ignition, turning on the blower motor switch did turn on the blower motor. I started the car and immediately noticed both the condenser cooling fan and the engine cooling fan both immediately started running. I turned on the A/C, got nothing but hot air, and verified that the compressor was not turning.

I turned the car off and decided to check for fuses. When I pulled the A/C fuse under the hood, I heard a loud CLICK from the A/C compressor area. When I reinserted the fuse, I received another click. I then pulled out the A/C compressor clutch relay, and heard the same click. Since I wasn't sure if it really was the A/C clutch, I asked my sister-in-law to plug in and unplug the relay while I put my hand on the compressor. She did it several times and before I could verify it was the A/C clutch...it stopped. At this point, unplugging the A/C compressor relay would not cause the click. Also, unplugging the A/C fuse would not cause the click.

I then turned on the blower motor (key still off!) and it didn't start running. I started the car, and the A/C worked fine! So I drove 50 miles back and forth to work the next day and figured it was some sort of fluke.

This morning I get a call that her battery is dead. I get home, put the charger on it, and as soon as the voltage came up a little, there was the click from the A/C clutch. Unplugging the A/C clutch relay caused another click. Relay in - click. Relay out - click. Same with the A/C fuse. Then, like before, plugging the relay or fuse back in no longer caused the click.

I do have the service manual and looking at the wiring diagram...the blower relay coil can only get power with the key in ACC or RUN. The A/C clutch is more complicated...it gets power from the SAME source - the ACC or RUN position on the ignition switch. But, ground is through the engine management computer (car is a 5-speed).

The only thing that seems to be common and could explain everything would be a bad ignition switch - the blower and A/C compressor power, plus the engine management computer all seem to be on the same contact on the ignition switch. The service manual ignition switch schematic is very confusing.

I don't want to throw parts at it...but that seems to be the only thing that makes sense?

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