Mitsubishi - Galant :: 1998 - Delay In Transmission Development - Won't Engage In Reverse
Sep 23, 2012
I have a 1998 Mitsubishi Galant, 4cyl., 165, 000 miles. Without previous symptoms, one day the transmission developed a delay of 5 to 30-seconds before it would engage in reverse. The fluid was clean and I have been using the Mitsubishi brand that they recommend. So I replaced the original transmission with a used one. But the reverse delay continued, even with a different transmission. So I removed the used transmission and rebuilt the original one. The problem STILL remained. Since then, the valve body has been replaced and the speed sensor has been replaced. I cannot figure out why there is a delay when putting it into reverse. I ran out of solutions. I did notice one day that when I first start the car, and the engine is at 1000 RPM's or more, the reverse wouldn't engage. Then, as the RPM's dropped to about 200 RPM's, the reverse would engage. I thought maybe this would be a clue.
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Still having issues with the transmission on my 05 F350. I posted before that it would take a few seconds to go into drive or reverse. The fixes were to change filters and do hot flush. I had the dealer do a hot flush, and then I put about 1000 miles on it. That didn't seem to fix anything, so I went back in and asked for more info. They did not change the filters. I thought they did, but found out they did not after the fact, so I decided to change the filters myself.
The interior filter was easy to change. The fluid was clean, and the magnet had shavings on it but nothing that seemed extraordinary. The exterior filter is impossible to get off. I reviewed posts on here before trying, so first was the impact wrench, then the pipe wrench, then the pipe wrench with a block wedged in to keep the thing from bending, still no luck. The cast nut broke off well before the pipe wrench came out of the drawer. How to get that thing off. I read on here somewhere that no fluid goes through that until 180 degrees, is that correct?
Scanguage says it rarely goes over 160, except for last evening when I was stuck in traffic. It went to 187, with ECT at 208. During this period, traveling under 40 most of the time, the transmission was shifting erratically, to the point I wanted to pull over and allow it to cool down. But traffic broke free, speed went up, and temps went down. Shifting returned to normal, except when trying to engage drive or reverse. The 3-4 second delay persists at any temp, and there doesn't seem to be any slippage. Just delayed and sometimes hard engagements. I'm at a loss for whats wrong.
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I have an automatic 2004 f150 fx4 with a 5.4 engine. I just bought the truck and noticed the other day that when I shift into reverse, there is a 1-2 second delay. Sometimes it will shift quicker than other times. Drive seems to be a little more swift I think. Everything seems to run smooth and the shifting is very smoot other than the delay. Is this normal or what could be some of the causes. The previous owner has the ATF changed this pst summer and it looks and smells fine other than maybe having to much fluid.
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Well it's been an ongoing problem with my 4r100, but last week it all come to a point. Reverse delay is getting to near 10seconds then abruptly engages. My 1-2 shift is so soft I have to look down and see my tach to make sure it shifted up. I now have trans squeal during ever shift including OD. Also have a loud screech that gets louder the faster you go, BUT the old girl is still moving the truck and oddly the fluid isn't burnt looking or smells burnt? That's one has me puzzled...
So Tuesday after work I'm pulling the transmission (in the driveway) and bringing it to the shop Thursday. Getting a billet steel converter, having all the planetary gears upgraded to six and four pinion, one way sprag will now be solid steel instead of the plastic one Ford put there, all the bearings will be upgraded to Torrington, I'll have the 45 roller sprag bearing upgrade as well as the 17 roller for reverse, I'm going with Borg Warner and Kolen steels, new solenoid pack.
I'm having the pump pump machined and sonnex upgrades done to it, spiral snap ring on OD piston, case will be machines not hand resurfaced, reverse gear plastic washers will be removed and the gear is getting machined for a Torrington bearing and steel spacer, clutch drum will be machined for a 360 spiral clip, locking snap ring on the OD piston, center support will have some machine work done to it, and I'm having the forward drum plug removed and the hole will be tapped for a steel plug.
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2015 F-250 4X4 CC gas truck. 6R140 Transmission..
My truck has 6500 miles on it and since day one when I put my shifter in (D) there is a 3-4 sec delay in the transmission to engage every morning when I start out, rest of the time there is no delay even when the truck sits all day at work (about 9 hours). I have read in 2011 (?) that the transmission was loosening it's prime and would cause this problem, so how it's got me thinking.
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I have a 2000 Mitsubishi Galant 4 cylinder with 160,000 miles on it. Been maintained pretty well over the last 7 years of ownership. Recently has started burning oil and I have been putting at LEAST 2 quarts of oil in everytime I refuel. No signs of leaking and the white smoke seems to indicate oil burn. I also commute daily about 80 miles. Is it worth fixing?
Already Tried: Did a 100,000 mile tune up almost 2 years ago and was changning oil and fluids within 1000 miles of recommended change before oil started burning. (About 6-8 months ago it started) Have not taken it to the mechanic yet to see what they suggest.
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I got a 99' Jetta gls 5 spd. I just replaced the transmission and now the car won't engage reverse from inside the cockpit. Reverse can be engage from inside the engine bay, but when the shift knob is depressed nothing happens. Linkag cables are in the correct spots.
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Yesterday, I was waiting inline at a fast food drive-thru and noticed that my A/C was not cooling (it was 100 deg outside). I then put the car in park and revved up the engine and then cool air started to come out of my A/C vents. I did that for 2-3 mins, then noticed that my temperature gauge rose almost all the way to the top (it went right under the red). At that point I took off (out of the drive thru), to get some air flowing into the radiator. Sure enough it temperature doped fast. After looking under the hood. I noticed that one of the two fans to the radiator will not turn on. I'm guessing that's what caused the over heating. I am not sure if I did any damage to the engine though, it did run really hot but not to the red mark but a hair line right under it.
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Over the winter, the A/C in my '04 Mitsubishi Galant quit working. It wouldn't blow any cold air at all, but I didn't mind too much since it wasn't hot out. In preparation for a hot NC summer, I took my car to a dealership about a month and a half ago to have the A/C fixed. They replaced the condenser, and the car started blowing cold air, but it would only do so intermittently. Two weeks later, took the car back into the dealership for them to have a look, but it blew cold air during the entire time that the mechanic was looking at it. I specifically asked about the compressor, but he said that it seemed to be fine. Since then, I've been trying to figure out what causes the A/C to stop working.
I haven't been able to find an exact cause, but the A/C will typically blow cold air when the car is not moving or when I am braking. It is also more likely to work if it isn't hot outside (which isn't exactly useful). If I am on the highway, applying the gas, or if it is hot outside, it is much less likely to work. As I am driving, I can hear the A/C click on and off; for example, if I apply the brake, I will hear the A/C click on, and it will blow cold air briefly (around 30sec - 1min or so). To complicate things, recently the A/C has blown fog in addition to cold air. This has happened three times. I'm at a loss for what the issue is...
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Gas is expensive and the empty light wasn't on THAT long so I put off refilling until I had time to swing by a place that is a couple ten cents cheaper per gallon. When the time came to go refill, the car started fine and then sputtered and stalled a before I could turn my car around. Parked the car and in desperation pouted some gas from the lawnmower tank in hoping that it would get me down the street to put some gas in, but it still sputtered and stalled.
So then I got a ride to the gas station to get a few gallons of gas that I knew was made for a car, and funneled it in. The engine still starts fine, sputters for a few seconds and stalls completely off when I start it. I decided to leave it parked for the night and see how things are in the morning. I know nothing about cars and have never had unforseen problems that have forced me to be concerned with how little I know about my 2005 Mitsubishi Galant in particular. My question is: Is something more complicated wrong with my car now that I let it run out of gas entirely, or is this just something that happens after you put gas in a bottomed out tank? Or did I do my engine dirty putting whatever was in my landlord's lawnmower can in my tank?
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My mechanic replaced my oil pump. For some unknown reason.The old oil pump locked and left me stranded on the highway. I bought a brand new one and it was installed. Now (<3months later) the oil pump has gone bad Again. What could be causing this? My mechanic is suggesting that I just change the whole engine. How can I solve this oil pump problem? Is it normal for an oil pump to go bad so frequently? how can I save my car...
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We have had a problem with our check engine light on our 2003 Mitsubishi Galant for a couple years. The light used to go on and off. Our mechanic ran the issue, checked it out, and said that it was not actually a problem with the engine but rather with the indicator light. The light was going off when there was not actually an issue. He told us it would cost about $500 to fix the problem. At the time, we decided it was not worth the money. Two months ago, we brought the car in for an oil change and the light was on. He ran the problem again, and again told us it was not a problem with the engine but with the light.
Unfortunately, it's time to get our car inspected, and the light is still on and has not gone off in two months. Since we did not want to risk getting a fine, we brought it in for the inspection, as as expected, the car failed. The inspector, a different mechanic (our regular mechanic does not do state inspections), said that our mechanic was probably wrong, that the lights do not just break and go off unexpectedly, and there is probably something wrong with the car instead.
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I'm having problems with my automatic transmission in a 2002 Saturn SL. About 2 months ago I noticed a delay when I would put my saturn in reverse and it would sort of kick into gear after a few seconds (up to 10seconds sometimes). I wasn't worried much about this at first until another problem started happening. Between second and third gear it seems to be shifting slow/hard(?). I can feel where it wants to shift, but its slow to shift and actual revs high before shifting down. The problem doesn't always exist, and some days its more then others. We took it to get a transmission fluid/filter change and this didn't solve the problem. Took it back for a transmission diagnositc and GM told us we need to replace the transmission or do an overhaul. They didn't explain why really though- no clear answer. I've heard everything from the torque converter to a solenoid problem.
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For the past two years I've noticed a decrease in fuel economy and recently noticed that the truck did not "feel" as if it had the same power especially when towing. Checking all the usual suspects with the engine turned up nothing and the transmission wasn't showing any signs of problems other than an occasional delay going into reverse. But it had been doing that for years and so I just ignored it.
Recently the torque converter started acting up and had some other occasional shifting delays and so decided to put the vehicle in the shop. The electronics all checked out and so a HD rebuild kit was ordered. The truck was finished this morning. Just barely pressing the accelerator makes the vehicle instantly start forward with noticeable zip. Plenty of power at all speeds, the engine now feels like new.
I suspect the main culprit was the torque converter. It wasn't enough to notice in excessive rpms nor heat (at least according to the instrument gauge) but the loss is noticeable in hindsight when compared to the repaired system. Over the next few weeks I'll get some mileage numbers and will know for sure whether I've found the sole cause of my power problems but I am sure that I've made a fairly large step in solving them.
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We have a Galant with approximately 76,000 miles. Lately, we have noticed that when it rains the car sputters and accelerates really slowly up to 30 mph. Once we get to 30, it acts normal. Sometimes if we turn the car off and then start it again, this problem goes away. My guess is it is something with the computer.
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When driving, no matter what the speed we get intermittent hesitation from the engine. Usually lasts less than 30 seconds. Today lasted 7 miles. Doesn't matter how long I've been driving. Does it whether the car is cold or warmed up. Was told the engine air filter needs cleaning. What this could be?
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About 3 months ago I threw the timing belt on my 2001 Mits Galant ES 2.4L 4cyl. I replaced the belt and 8 valves; costed me a pretty penny. Since that time I was having Idle problems. The Throttle assembly with the Idle Control valve was replaced. I have Cruise control. The car was started, it warmed up and then shut off. Attempts to keep car running on its own have failed. Is it a programming problem? Is it the computer? No codes are returned.
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I am getting concerned with the steering of my car due to a rather unsettling behavior that has developed within the last month or so. at first it was barely noticeable but over the last several weeks its become more pronounced and more than a bit unsettling.
This issue occurs under two conditions accelerating on a steep upward incline or accelerating to highway speeds / passing. The severity of the problem seems to be a factor of how much torque is being applied to the wheels.
When I accelerate hard the car feels like its pulling slightly to the left but as soon as I let off the gas the car seems to jerk suddenly to the right.
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On my way to the grocery store my car's RPMs started to pulse up and down (between 1 and 2) when driving. While stopped at the red light it would vibrate very hard. When i put it in park the RPMs would rise fast before i shut it off. It did the same things on the way back home plus the check engine light came on. A few hours later i put a little oil in it and drove it around my neighborhood and it didn't do any of the things it did that morning.
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My Galant is having the above problem. I am providing some details (below) related to the problem: a) Check engine light was on. I took to a repair shop. The code was non specific. They did engine tune-up. The problem was not fixed. b) I took to Mitsubishi. They could not find any specific problem. They recommended changing CAM sensor. After replacement, problem still remains. c) Recently the car doesn't want to start. Check engine light is gone. Revving is still there at start and during stops. d) I have noticed some of the coolant splashing out to the adjacent tubing during driving. The coolant chamber is empty. But the engine heating indicator is in the middle.
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2002 galant 4cly overheating! So my Galant has 120k miles and I just had the timing belt replaced and I thought I'd be good and have the water pump replaced as well. When I got it back I made a few short trips with it and it was running fine then I took a longer trip about 30 miles and I noticed it was overheating, so I took it back to the shop they thought it was air in the cooling system so they preformed a few flushes, replaced the thermostat even though it was new and then replaced the pump again and the radiator cap, the radiator it's self was replaced maybe 1-2k miles ago. I don't believe the head is leaking since I'm not losing coolant and the oil isn't milky.....I'm at a loss, could the thermostat be the problem? Do I need one from the dealer? Is there a history with replacement pumps bad?
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