I have a 2005 Mitsubishi Endevour XLS w/23000 miles, when the car has been driven for long distances or especially after sitting in a hot parking lot all day, I cannot remove the ignition key. The car has been serviced by the Mitsubishi dealer three times for this, including the Endevour recall for this problem.
View 2 RepliesA mechanic has my car and replaced my timing belt and water pump....he said he had it running and then it sputtered out and wont start..i have never had a problem with this car. Just replacing before it went out.. he is missing something.
View 19 RepliesMy car had some knocking for maybe 6 months when I would accelerate. Today it started then cut off. I restarted it step on the gas now I have thick white smoke coming from the exhaust pipe. Previously when I thought it was a head gasket issues , I went in for a oil change they said no it was not a head gasket problem.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2002 Ford Focus ZX5 with about 108,000 miles on it. It's driven far distances, about 700 miles round trip, a couple times a month. About about three times since last summer, approximately halfway through one leg (at around 200 miles in), the engine starts jerking when accelerating. It doesn't happen on every trip, and seems to only happen on hotter days.
(Driving around town short distances, even at high RPMs doesn't present a problem at all, it's specifically after a couple hundred miles.) The engine light has flashed, but not every time the jerking occurs and hasn't stayed on, and the code that was pulled doesn't seem to be telling either the mechanics or Ford know what the deal is. I'm looking at having the whole transmission swapped for well over a grand, but with the disclaimer that it's not a guaranteed fix.
I have a 2008 Mitsubishi Endeavor with 308,000 miles on it and am on the return portion of a road trip with 700 miles to go and my car is driving terribly. I had my oil changed today and they used a high mileage oil, said that my filters were fine and I needed to do a tranny and power steering flush which I said I would do once I got home. My service engine soon light has been on and every so often while idling or slowing down my car would putter and act as if it would bail out but never actually die. When I ran the computer it said it was an issue with the o2 sensor but after put a fuel cleaner in the system, it always felt better.
Not today I drove about 900 miles Saturday, did a little bit of in town driving Sunday and it started to putter while idling but what was new was the surging during acceleration and the continual puttering or bumpy ride feeling when I'm at high speeds and 2000 - 3000 rpms. I'm in the middle of nowhere and after talking to Autozone, my mechanics and trying to self diagnosis online, I've been told that I need to indure the bumpy ride to get home but when I do, will need to figure out what with the o2 sensor needs fixing or Ill need new spark plugs or a new fuel pump. all that sounds good but the way my car is puttering feels terrible! there's no odor, leaks or sound ... it just feels like I'm going 80 miles an hour but I'm going to stall out at the same time.
I have a 2003 Saab 9-3 convertible that is having intermittent starting problems. It seems to happen when the car has been driven long distances and the weather is hot or when it is raining. It cranks fine but will not start. When it is hot, I open the hood and it starts after about 10 minutes. When it is wet is starts after being cranked for a white. My mechanic has replaced the ignition cassette and the spark plugs and it has not fixed the problem.
View 4 RepliesI am going on vacation in May and am curious how long the C can sit if it's not started or driven? I have read that it can drain or possibly damage the battery from sitting to long, so just how long is o.k.? It seems like a pain to have to find someone to start up or drive the car while on vacation.
View 8 RepliesI'm trying to think of what gets affected on a vehicle which is driven about 20 to 25k miles a year. I'm looking to purchase one with the following description.
2006, 4.7L V8 is bulletproof, but with 165k miles already, what should I look for when inspecting the vehicle?
It's been dealer serviced. Is there anything other than normal wear and tear items that might be negatively impacted by doing so many road trips (lets say 300 miles at a time) That would be around 550 trips of 300 miles in 6 years.
The reason I ask this rather than just looking at the truck is because I'm in Dallas and the truck is at a Houston dealer... So before I drive out there, I wanted to "assume" what affect this kind of usage would do to an engine.
This is one of the strangest things I have ever encountered. when i start my car the climate control system works perfectly and it never has any issues driving around town. however for the past year or so every time i take a long drive over an hour and a half the force of the air coming out of the vents starts to diminish to the point where the only circulation i am getting is from the outside vent.
The strange thing is i can hear the fan blowing behind the dashboard and when i hold my hand to the vent the air coming out if very cold / hot depending on where i set the dial so it doesn't appear to be an issue with the AC or heater core .
I am thinking there might be some type of obstruction but that doesn't explain why the symptoms occur like clockwork on long drives.
Details. I was driving my car yesterday. It stop as i gave it fuel to go around a corner.Its a 95 mitsubishi mirage s manufacture october 94 in japan. Its a manual turned the key. Nothing but cranking and flooding. My friend came to take a look at it. no spark.I smelled fuel and have still almost half a tank which mean its pumping but no spark came from the ignition wire.I have replaced the rotor and am waiting on new ignition wires and distro cap. When i took off the distro cap I didn't see any visible cracks.
View 9 RepliesI was curious as to how ambitious a project this would be and if special tools are needed.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2002 Mitsubishi Lancer OZ and the problem currently associated with it is that blower motor is running no matter if the key is in the ignition or not.
View 15 RepliesCar was parked nose slightly uphill. would turn over strong, but wouldn't catch ignition after long tries. I dinked around for 5 under the hood for 10 minutes in the 30 degree weather, and then after a medium long try, it started and ran. started fine after a 45 minute stop with the nose pointed slightly downhill. Then after 10 miles the engine shut off suddenly at 40mph with no warning. there was never any diminution of power in the acceleration. would not start again after many tries with plenty of revolutions. It did seem the cab lights were a little finicky/dim, but I couldn't tell if that was electrical weakness or just old car cab light switches. didn't behave the way a battery related ignition problem would. no check engine light.
Cop pulled up and wanted it off the busy road, and long story short it wound up at this shop I don't know anything about. the guy there said it started and ran fine for the 45 minutes or so he had it in the garage, but then it shut off. it wouldn't ignite when he sprayed throttle body cleaner into it while cranking the key. I think he said he did something else to confirm there was no spark. he's got his theories about what is wrong, but doesn't want to commit to anything unless he can burn some $100/hr time diagnosing.
I'm hoping it is not the ignition control module, ECM or especially the crankshaft position sensor.
95 GT Convertible - 5sfe
A friend of mine has a 2002 Pontiac Gran Prix with a reoccurring issue. It seems that from time to time that when she stops and wishes to exit the car she is unable to remove the key from the ignition. She has had it into the same shop on a couple of times and they can't seem to figure it out. Well someone told her that if it happened turn the key to the position before it starts the car, use the power lock button and unlock the doors then turn the car off and guess what each time she has done that the key can be removed. Why, when she unlocks the doors the key will come out but if she doesn't the key can't be removed.
View 10 RepliesRecently I could not remove the ignition key on my 2007 Pontiac G6 after parking and turning off the ignition. Co-worker suggestions for a fix indicate that
(1) little shavings from the key have come off over time in the ignition, and it was suggested that I use WD-40 to lubricate the ignition, or
(2) the car was not fully in park and I simply have to make sure the car is in park.
The curious thing is that the key did eventually release while I was locking and unlocking the doors using the remote keyless entry and the problem has not yet repeated itself. I am not sure if lubricant in modern ignitions is safe, and I tried repeatedly starting and restarting the car and moving the gear shift and this did not work.
I have an 04 Touareg. The key turns on and off fine car runs great DIC has message return shifter to park position to remove key.. Appears to be in Park only key will not remove........
View 6 RepliesI thought I would try and resolve this issue while I wait for the battery module to arrive.
I read through all of the past articles relating to my issue with no luck of resolution.
When the car is turned off, the steering wheel never locks. Even when I rock the steering wheel left and right it never locks.
2000 Volvo S70, 177K - This car is new to me, and shortly after purchasing it, I began having difficulty removing the ignition key when arriving at a destination. With the transmission in Park, and the engine shut off, the key just won't come out. Then again, sometimes there's no problem at all. Oddly, the problem seems to correlate with the cabin/engine temp. If I allow the car to cool off, then go back to it in a half hour, the key will usually come right out. Same thing with short trips. I'm fortunate so far that I've not been in any high crime areas where leaving the key would be risky; but I will need to solve this eventually.
I understand that there's a safety switch/sensor that ensures the vehicle is in Park before the key can be removed, and I've tried being a bit more "forceful" in shifting to P, but that doesn't seem to work. I'll be taking this to my mechanic anyway for a state safety inspection followup; are there any hints I can give him if I can't figure it out myself?
Is the temperature factor suggestive that the problem is in the transmission sensor? I'd prefer that the issue be a sensor or adjustment rather than in the ignition switch just to avoid the re-keying mess.
How to remove the clip on ignition coil connector wires that attach to all 4 of the coils.
I see that it has a black tab that you pull to the up or out position. From there I'm at a loss what to do. I managed to prode and poke and got one off, but I nearly pulled the connector off the wire and I know I didn't do it right.
Is there a simple way to release these mothers that I'm just not getting? If so, looking for explicit instructions in minute detail..
When going short distances, half mile to two miles, and I turn off the car it will not REstart. Dash lights come on but engine does not make a sound. No clicking, no engine trying to turn over, nothing. After the car sits for awhile and cools off it starts up with no hesitation at all. If on the road for several minutes the car does not have this problem no matter how far or how many times I turn it off and on. The battery checks out ok. Someone said it could be a ground wire loose. What do you think. Is this something I could do myself?
View 5 RepliesHow do I remove ignition lock cylinder to take and get new set up?
View 4 Replies