Mitsubishi - Diamante :: Died When Drove Through A Puddle - Slight Electric Burning Odor
Oct 29, 2011
I have a 2002 Mitsubishi Diamante LS. I know I know, but I am a poor student (emphasizing poor), and this car is paid off. Anyway, A couple months ago I drove through a puddle, water splashed up into the engine area and my car died. I was able to start it an hour later (after it dried out, I guess) Since then, there have been a couple times that it wouldn't start right away, it took a good 20 minutes for the car to start after the initial try, both of these times have been after a heavy rain. And now, occasionally, I smell a slight electric burning odor. I replaced the battery after the "driving through the puddle" incident. I just hit 80,000 miles. Obviously there is one or more issues I need to deal with.
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I have a 2003 Mitsubishi Diamante that I have owned since 2008 purchased it with 60,000 miles on it. Currently has 131,000 miles. I have always kept my car in good running condition and performed all of the scheduled maintenance per the owners manual. Last month I noticed a slight cold knock on the right side of the engine that would go away when the engine warmed up. I checked the oil and noticed that it was a little bit low (maybe half a cm below the lower threshold on the dip stick). I added oil and continued to drive it, still knocking.
Bought some sea foam thinking it was the lifters and sprayed a can in the intake and poured some in the oil. Then changed oil with 5w-30 synthetic, have been driving it for about 500 miles now and the cold knock seems to be getting worse and I can faintly smell burning oil when it is idling as I let it warm up before driving off. By the time I get to work the knock is essentially gone. My oil levels have been fine... My question is, should I be explaining to my wife and fiscally responsible self, that I need to be looking for a new (read used) truck sooner than I had initially planned? Or, is this something that can/should be addressed or just drive it until it gives out...
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I have a 95 Mitsubishi diamante es 3.0 sohc auto trans. it idles rough i have replaced plugs wires cap rotor button air filter and fuel filter. checked the timming belt ok checked the fuel pressure it is 40 psi the book calls for 38 psi. if i rev it up to 2000 rpm's it smoothes out.
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Two mechanics have told me that I need the valve cover gasket in my car replaced. I have all of the classic signs of needing one--the smoke coming from under the hood, the drops of oil on the pavement after the car is parked for a few minutes, etc. The problem is that I won't have the money until around Memorial Day. I drive about 300 miles a week. How desperate a repair is this, and what are the signs that I need to have it fixed immediately?
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So i drove my car through a huge puddle and it stalled out on me! i pushed the car out to higher ground and let it sit. i started the car and it sounded horrible. checked the oil and no water is present on the dip stick. checked the coils and they are also dry. I deceided to check the spark plugs and once again dry. i took out the ecu to get it checked and once again they said it was dry.
I put it to the computer and I get random misfiring on cylinder 2 and 3. At time it fluctuates to 2 and 4.. I am at a stand still, what can this possibly be? White smoke does come out from exhaust but stops after a couple of mins. no smell to the smoke whatsoever so am guessing its just water stuck in the tailpipe.
The air filter was soaked and there was a lil water in the air intake i dried the filter and removed any moisture from the intake and still misfiring...
BTW its an 2007 ES350 ultra luxury edition
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I drive a manual 2001 vr6 jetta. I drove through a huge puddle on accident. It was still pouring and I couldn't see it, plus I've never seen this section of road flood before. Anyway my car is lowered and I have a CAI. I sucked up water, hydrolocked the car and it bogged down and died.
The next day I got it towed home, took out the plugs and did an oil change(water came out for about 5 seconds followed by the oil) and got a new air filter. I then cranked the engine blowing most of the water out of my cylinders then sprayed starter fluid in the cylinders let it sit for about an hour and cranked again. Put it all back together started it up and it sounded fine. I just let it idle until it got to running temp then shut it off. Came out the next morning started it up let it idle to running temp again shut it off then went to pull the drain plug to see if I could get anymore water out and all I saw was cappuccino colored oil. So I did another oil change and so far it has stayed a nice golden amber color.
Everything seems to be fine other than my EPC light is on. My ASR light is on too right from startup and pushing the button does nothing. I also have a CEL for emissions workshop(before this instance) but that's just an O2 sensor. And lastly it's been hard to shift into 3rd and 4th.
I don't have any problems with acceleration or surging idle or bogging down. The only things I actually notice are the trans issue and not being able to turn on and off my ASR.
Could I have water in the trans? What can I do to fix this? I was planning on doing a fluid change. I'm completely lost with the ASR problem. Everything I've read so far I don't fit in the norm of problems. EPC? No symptoms at all just a light.
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I drove my car through a puddle, and right after that, my check engine light came on and it hesitates to accelerate. What could be the problem?
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i have a 1994 mitsubishi diamante 3.0 sohc hard to start and idles real rough. it has new plugs,wires,cap,rotor button,fuel filter,and air filter.fuel pressure is between 45 and 50psi which is good i have good compression on all cylinders timing belt is good and i am getting spark to all plugs. with the car running i pull the plug wires off and cylinders 1 3 5 makes a difference but 2 4 6 their is no change.the car was setting for two years.it dose have new gas.the check engine light is not on and has no codes.
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My car makes a ticking noise as soon as I turn the key to the 'on' position. The ticking continues once the engine begins running and stops shortly afterward (maybe 10 - 15 seconds). I'll attach a video of the ticking after the car is already running. I've checked the service light. It is the catalytic converter. I'm pretty sure this is a separate problem, but am not sure what is causing it.
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2002 Diamante, Passenger side seatbelt became stuck and started smoking after the door was "slammed" shut. Need to know if this can be fixed or am I going to have to ride in the back seat?
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I have a cherokee that has never given me any problems...at all, ever. The car started fine drove down the street and died like it had run out of gas. Immediately the voltage gauge read about 10 volts. the car would not start or jump start. took the battery out that night and at oreilly the battery was good, just slightly discharged. was towed to a shop. they had it 2 days and felt there was no power getting to the fuel pump. Had it towed today to the nearest jeep dealer they said my crank position sensor wasn't working, but the car wouldn't start. then they said my neutral safety switch was also bad. switched it out and it starts. all in all they want almost $500 to fix the car. i can't believe both those parts went bad at exactly the same time. Is this possible?
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I drive an '04 Dodge Stratus with 100k+ miles. I drove over a speed bump in the parking lot where I work (10 mph or less), and the car suddenly died (coincidence?) Luckily I was able to coast into a parking spot before the wheel seized up. The "check engine light" and the "oil light" came on, which leads me to believe I didn't lose power. I turned the car off and was able to restart the engine. When I exited the car, I noticed a burning smell. I am going to check the oil level, but is there anything else that could be causing this? I don't want to be stranded on my way home from work tonight.
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So it appears I have another oil leak to contend with. I recently took the Celica on a road trip to Las Vegas, about 600 miles round trip. During the trip I would occasionally smell burning oil and upon retuning home I saw a puddle of oil, maybe four inches accross under the car. The only sign of leaking oil I could find on the car is at the front of the motor, coming from underneath the oil cooler, everything else is clean. It looks like the burning oil smell was from oil dripping on the exhaust but the puddle was farther back on the passenger side. How would the leaking oil pool farther back on the passenger side instead of directly under the actual leak? All the seals were replaced when the motor was swapped, so I can't see something on the timing belt side leaking.
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I bought a 2011 GTI this past March, it has about 5700 miles on it. Last week I posted about my radiator leaking coolant and what I went through to get it fixed. I got the car back last saturday and everything was fine, up until tonight. I was pulling onto the highway (no one coming, luckily), and as I went to shift into 2nd, I heard a loud bang, almost like my car backfired, and then the CEL came on and my car went into limp mode. I immediately pulled over, but it was dark and I couldn't really see much (not sure what I was looking for anyways). I was about 3 miles from my house so I drove home cautiously, but as I was driving home, I smelled a faint burning odor.
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In December, I took my 2001 Ford Escape (123,000 miles) to my mechanic to find the source of a burning odor that I'd been smelling after driving. My engine light had also gone on several times and the engine ran rough, especially after very wet weather. They attributed the engine light to a cylinder 4 misfire, and the smell to oil leaking from my valve cover gasket. They strongly recommended, due to the proximity of my coils and spark plugs to the valve cover gasket, that I have my (still original) spark plugs and coils replaced in all 6 cylinders.
Considering that one coil had already been causing problems, they said that it would save labor to do them while they were so close in proximity. Considering the age and mileage of my car, the fact that I'd like to keep it for a couple of years, and the fact that this is a trusted mechanic, I took their advice. I had all of these repairs done to the tune of 1800.
Following this repair, I still smelled the burning odor. I gave it a couple of weeks, thinking this may be recently-leaked oil burning off, and then brought it back to my mechanic. They could not easily identify the location of the leak, so they injected dye, and I returned a few days later.
Now I'm being told that the oil leak is from my timing cover gasket. In addition to that, they say that the oil pan gasket will need replacement, because of its proximity to the timing case. My valve cover will also have to be removed and possibly replaced, but they said that they can possibly reuse it since it was just replaced in December. There was some discussion of replacing the timing chain while they were in the case. As an aside, I have had no indication that my timing chain has any issues.
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I have a 2000 Mitsubishi Galant 4 cylinder with 160,000 miles on it. Been maintained pretty well over the last 7 years of ownership. Recently has started burning oil and I have been putting at LEAST 2 quarts of oil in everytime I refuel. No signs of leaking and the white smoke seems to indicate oil burn. I also commute daily about 80 miles. Is it worth fixing?
Already Tried: Did a 100,000 mile tune up almost 2 years ago and was changning oil and fluids within 1000 miles of recommended change before oil started burning. (About 6-8 months ago it started) Have not taken it to the mechanic yet to see what they suggest.
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For the last month or so my car (2005 Subaru Outback LL Bean) has been producing a burning odor. It smells like air out of a latex balloon that has been burnt. I took the car to my mechanic but was unable to reproduce the smell. He asked if the car only produced the smell going uphill as it could be my coolant leaking. Since then I have noticed that the car does in fact produce the smell primarily, if not exclusively going uphill. But coolant should smell sweet not burnt?
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2013 Elantra GT ... It is winter on the east coast and we turned on the heater and the car began to smell like an electric wire is burning. It literally is making us sick. The A/C did not produce this smell. The dealer says it is normal.
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Ok, so my brake pads are actually not smelling like "victory" right now. what these symptoms might mean?
Background: 1996 Mitsubishi Eclipse. I think this might have all started when I hit the brakes pretty hard one day, hard enough to normally skid a car but the car has ABS, so it did not skid. Didn't notice these signs immediately after, but they have happening for weeks now and here they are:
Front driver's side tire bumps, sounds like a jack hammer but slower. Can get bad enough where I feel the steering wheel jarring so I have to hold on with both hands (I don't have power steering.) At first I suspected bad tire maybe, but the tire is fine.
First few times it did that, it smelled like burned brake pads. Only saw this once at night but the rotor got so hot that when I pulled over to look, it was glowing orange. It do longer smells like brake pads, but it still shakes.
The shaking and hammering stops and starts form one day to the next. I drive on the highway, then maybe 20 minutes I have to pull over and drive on the road. If I let it rest an hour, it might go away.
It happens randomly at different speeds. One day it does it at highway speeds, the next day, 40 and some other day at 20mph. I jacked up the car and got both front tires off the ground. Then I started the car and put it drive:
a.) the left side would not rotate!
b.) gave it gas, the tranny shifted gears, got up all the way to 35 "mph" on the speedometer, and still the left tire would not rotate.
The tire can rotate with enough applied force using a crow bar. Nothing terribly strong...18" bar, I would say 20lbs torque. By the way the 30 amp? ABS fuse in the hood is not there, never has been. I lowered the car and it drove. But it still acts up from time to time.
edit: it doesn't shake so much now as it does hammer. But I really don't feel the car tire hammering or bumping, I can hear it. Metal to metal, like a little gremlin is hammering the inside of the hood or something.
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While driving my Montero sport last week, I began smelling a burning rubber smell from the air vents. At the same time I noticed, on the dashboard, that both the brake, and, battery indicators had lit up. There was no smoke, mist, or off sounds, coming from the engine, and, the engine seemed to be running no differently than before this occurred. I drove home, parked the car for 5 days, and, yesterday visually inspected what I could see, which was almost nothing unusual. I started the engine and let it run for about 10 minutes in park.
The engine ran normal, no noticeable knocks or pings, no shaking of the engine, the belts ran smooth, no noticeable leaks of any kind. I checked all fluids and they were at normal levels, only the power steering showed a slightly lower than mid level of fluid, not anywhere near low.line. But, as soon as I started the engine, the dashboard indicators lit up and stayed on. There was only a very faint smell of rubber at the end of the 10 minute running of the engine, barely noticeable. The only thing that I did different recently was about 2 weeks ago I added a quart Pennzoil high mileage motor oil 5-30 instead of the usual GTX high mileage motor oil 5-30 that I usually put in the engine, as there was none available at the store. The auto has ran very well for the past year.
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In the last week or so I have noticed a faint gasoline smell when I pull my 2010 Prius (with 70,000 miles) into the garage and shut it down. I've looked under the hood and not seen anything obvious and there aren't any leaks onto the floor.
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