Mini - Coopers :: 2007 - Clicking Noise - Backfires - Loose Power
Jun 18, 2013
My 2007 mini cooper with low milage (40,000) began making clacking noises, then backfiring, then loosing power. Had intake valves cleaned with walnut shells a few months ago at great expense and just started to click and clack again? Put in fuel injection cleaner and has stopped for now.
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I have a 2005 MINI Cooper S with manual transmission, bought new. Almost three years ago, it started making a strange noise that no one has been able to identify or repair. When turning full left at very low speed, like pulling into a parking spot or making a U-turn, the front end makes a strange noise that seems to be coming from the right front wheel. It's not a deep, rhythmic clunking noise, like a CV joint, but a higher-pitched, random clattering noise. More of a "cluh-click...click,click...clicketyclickclick...click...click" than a "clunk clunk clunk."
In September of 2010, I took it to the dealer. They assured me it was NOT a CV joint. They retorqued the axle nuts. The sound seemed to go away for a few days, but came back. I took it back, and they replaced one of the axle nuts. The noise went away but came back. This time the dealer replaced the other axle nut. The sound went away and came back. I took the car in a fourth time, and the dealer retightened everything on the front end - axle nuts (again), sway bars, shock mounts etc. Again, the noise went away and then came back.
I gave up on the dealer. Since then, I've taken the car to two independent BMW shops with similar results. Both of them made the sound go away temporarily, but then it came back.
A year ago, I replaced my second set of tires. To my surprise, the sound went away! I wondered if maybe the old, slightly-wider-than-recommended (215 vs 205) tires had been rubbing on something. But then, about a week later, the sound returned.
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My 2008 Mini Cooper-S burns more oil than I would like (1 qt/3000 miles) but I am told "They all do that.". When I topped up recently, I think I overfilled it and oil level on the dipstick (which is very hard to read on these cars) is well above the max The manual cautions to not overfill with oil. What are the dangers of overfilling the engine with oil?
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2007 F-350 6.0L, Wife phoned and said that the truck backfired a couple of times and there was black smoke from exhaust. When she stopped at idle there is now alot of white smoke but coolant level looks fine. She has about 200 km's to go before she is home pulling a 20 foot horse trailer with 1 horse.
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I bought a 2007 Mini Cooper, used, at a Ford dealership in August of 2010. For nearly two years I loved this car and didn't have to pay much in the way of maintenance. I bought the car at 55k miles, and now it has 92k. Over the past year, I have noticed a rattling noise at cold startup, and it was especially loud in the winter, and I also noticed that the car consumes oil. As the oil got lower, the rattling got worse, and whenever I topped off the oil the rattling stopped. I brought this up at the MINI dealership (where I get all my repairs on the car) during a routine oil change and they didn't take it seriously.
Well, Tuesday morning on my way to work, there was a sudden loss of power and the engine started missing bad. I was almost to where I work when the car just couldn't hold and idle and stalled. It wouldn't turn over after that and it sounded really "sick". I had the car towed to the dealer, where they told me the timing belt tensioner failed and it allowed the timing belt to jump "a great distance". Apparently, these are "interference" engines (a term I learned because of this incident) so the screwed up timing destroyed the engine. The dealer said it will cost 8,000 to completely replace the engine.
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When I am driving and i go to stomp on the gas my truck feels like there is no power and makes this funny clicking noise and goes no where.
NOTE : Literally just replaced plugs and coils with success. 105k miles, Oil change 2 weeks ago
2007 F150 lariat super crew 4x4, 5.4 v8 w/ 3 valve
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I just replaced the drums, shoes and hardware.
Everything went together with out issue but now when I put on the brakes there is a clicking noise coming from the passenger side, kind of like something is hanging up. sounds like one of the springs are loose. But when I took the drum off everything is tight and nothing is out of alignment.
Do drums need a break in period? Wondering if maybe there is a sharp edge and its making the shoe uneven on the drum and causing if to hang up when I put on the brakes.
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Heard clunk (technicdal term) noise when you are in reverse and press the brake pedal. It is coming from the front end/brake area. I did not see a service bulletin for this.
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My 1992 Plymouth voyager 3.0 looses power when it gets hot I put a straight pipe thinking it was the catalytic converter and still doing the same thing also it backfires
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I have a 1992 Chevy C30 Step Van. V-8 with automatic overdrive transmission. When driving in hilly terrain at around 70/75 mph, the van will lose some speed and when it gets to about 60/65 mph it backfires and seems to lack enough power to downshift. I've tried not using the overdrive selection and it does seem to do a little better, but stil backfires some. I've changed rotor and distributor cap and tried higher octane fuel.
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I have a 337 running the ATP gt2x kit with revo stg3 and external fuel w/550cc injectors. The car has power in the first three gears until 4200 RPM then it acts like it backfires and then looses all power, but it will drive and boost normal in 4th,5th, and 6th gear. I have basic boost settings running on the revo and cant figure out what the problem is.
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I took my car in for an oil change and they said I should get the fuel injector and upper intake manifold and valve cleaning treatment. When I picked up the car I noticed a rattle or low pitched ticking sound coming from under the hood. The car has an automatic transmission and the noise frequency increases and decreases with the rpm's. It only happens with the car in "drive". For the seasoned followers, it sounds like the sound we got from fastening baseball cards onto our bike frames to make noise as the wheels turned - just describing the sound. When I took it back to the Mini dealership in Phoenix (who shall remain anonymous), they said I needed a new transmission.
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I have 26,000 miles on my 2006 Mini convertible manual transmission. It started making noise while in gear. Took in to my mechanic and he says there is metal in the transmission fluid and that the metal around the ball bearings has failed and that, if he can't repair it, I'll need a new transmission for about 6500.00 Is this a common problem and do I have any recourse with Mini? I am the original owner of the car, but, of course, it's no longer in warranty.
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Just driving today and when putting my window down i heard an odd clicking noise. Couple minutes later the window wouldn't go up at all when button pressed. Then it suddenly started to work again but clicking noise remained.
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The other night I'm driving and i hear this clicking noise as the car is rolling, like what it sounds like if something is it your tire, i can tell its coming from the front right so i get out and check it and its nothing there, next thing i thought was its something on the rotor.....so i take the car the next morning to lexus shop that i go to(not the dealer) he hears the noise takes of the front wheel and sees the issue. There's like a bent pin in the middle of the calipers that he said got moved or bent or something and the rotor was rubbing on that, so he gets a pliers and kinda bends/pulls it back to where its supposed to be.
He says the hardware on the brake system eventually deteriorates and when i do my next brake job i should replace those things too(just did my brakes though). so i drove off and everything was fine. Today I'm pulling out and when i tap on my brakes i hear a squeak I've never heard before, it seems like the clicking noise came back slightly and when I went on the highway the brakes just feel different and now there's a shudder in my steering wheel, i do have a warranty on the car and was wondering if it wouldn't be covered since its associated with the brakes.
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I started having an issue with my lexus ls460 2007, the radio works good, but sometimes the sound doesn't come out, in other words even on max volume I can hear almost anything, a clicking sound comes out with this problem, the thing is (hands free) works perfect, navi guidance works amazing, except all radio sounds including AUX gives out lil sound which I can't hear.
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My B6 only has 1500 miles and I have noticed after I had the dealer replace a defective fuel rail w/only 400 miles on car a click'n noise when I am driving.
For example. When I take off from a stop, and accelerate to lets say 15-20mph and then take my foot off the accelarator, let the the engine(rpms) idle back to normal, and then re-accelarate again, immediately I hear a "CLICK" (only one x, and its not a really loud, its kinda subtle, but still you can hear it from inside the car) coming from under my feet area, very briefly and then the car takes off.
At first I thought this was normal, but of course I could not dismiss this, seeing that this is a brand new car, and figured........"well it shouldn't".
BTW, I just tinted my windows (35%) on my black B6 and it looks fantastic.
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One thing I cant clear is how to fix the annoying door clicking. The one bolt behind plastic cover on body side isn't a torx 40 its a bolt/philips and its tight. My 2 bolts on door side dont seem to be getting tight. The doors still clik seems to be in join in middle of door arm.
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I have an 07 Camry with an I4 engine and there are times when I am driving with the two front windows down and I hear a ticking/clicking noise coming from the engine as if the engine is brittle.
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The other day I had my windows open while backing up and noticed that the brakes make a clicking noise when I initially apply them while in reverse.
This happens every time I'm in reverse and I apply the brakes.
The clicking is only when I first step on the brake, but it happens every time I first step on the brake in reverse.
Maybe this is unique to the LS600hL (2008)? Are brakes on my LS different from brakes on LS460 / LS460L?
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About 2 months ago i was driving and heard a clicking noise that would increase the faster i drove, i 1st thought it was something in the tire. after checking my right front tire and saw nothing was there for some reason i figured it was the brake.....so my personal mechanic the next day took off the wheel i told me i had to replace the braking kit because one of the pins was rubbing on the rotor, in the mean time he pulled it to try to realign it into place.....after he did that i realized the steering wheel shuddering when braking at highway speeds....figuring since i needed the braking kit that when replaced, this new problem would b solved.....braking kit replaced problem still there....
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