Mini - Cooper :: 2007 - Rattle Or Low Pitched Ticking Sound Coming From Under The Hood
Jun 19, 2012
I took my car in for an oil change and they said I should get the fuel injector and upper intake manifold and valve cleaning treatment. When I picked up the car I noticed a rattle or low pitched ticking sound coming from under the hood. The car has an automatic transmission and the noise frequency increases and decreases with the rpm's. It only happens with the car in "drive". For the seasoned followers, it sounds like the sound we got from fastening baseball cards onto our bike frames to make noise as the wheels turned - just describing the sound. When I took it back to the Mini dealership in Phoenix (who shall remain anonymous), they said I needed a new transmission.
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MY Ls460 2010 AWD is making annoying ticking noise since I bought it 2 months ago ( 76k milage ) , it seems that the sound is mainly coming under the hood on right front fender side .
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yesterday I heard a faint rattle coming from under the hood while the a/c was on, when I had my son turn it off, it went away. Right now it's barely noticeable, but I don't want it to turn into something major. I own a '08 ES with 88,000 miles and all my service is done at the dealership.
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Since Sept, my check engine light has come on a total of 6 times. Every time, I bring it into the dealership to get it fixed. The first time, they told me it was a loose gas cap. The next couple times they said that different codes were coming up, and they continually fix something (they've changed the sensor in the gas tank, changed the filter in the front and the back of the car), but nothing seems to do the trick. This last time, I got the car back right before Halloween, and the light came on. What the problem could be?
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Car: 2004 Mini Cooper, 103k miles
Issue 1: car shake- At about 70 mph the whole car (pedals, steering wheel, seats) has a shimmy. Car has 4 new (balanced) tires and the front wheel bearings have been replaced. I've been told possibly motor mounts.
Issue 2: clunky sound- we have the requisite pockmarked roads. When the car is cold there is a sound of something loose in the back end. Nothing has been found to be loose but the sound is... annoying. I've checked the spare tire and it is secure. What that could be?
Issue 3: violent wheel shake- Not exactly the most replicate of issues. Started a year ago in June - three times total now. When traveling at higher speed (65 plus) for longer times (75 min or more) when I'm not accelerating the steering wheel grabs and pulls to the right. It almost feels like the brakes are grabbing on one side but there's no noticeable wear on the brake pads. It takes quite a bit of strength to hold the wheel straight and when I accelerate, it dissipates. What could that be?
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I bought a 2007 Mini Cooper, used, at a Ford dealership in August of 2010. For nearly two years I loved this car and didn't have to pay much in the way of maintenance. I bought the car at 55k miles, and now it has 92k. Over the past year, I have noticed a rattling noise at cold startup, and it was especially loud in the winter, and I also noticed that the car consumes oil. As the oil got lower, the rattling got worse, and whenever I topped off the oil the rattling stopped. I brought this up at the MINI dealership (where I get all my repairs on the car) during a routine oil change and they didn't take it seriously.
Well, Tuesday morning on my way to work, there was a sudden loss of power and the engine started missing bad. I was almost to where I work when the car just couldn't hold and idle and stalled. It wouldn't turn over after that and it sounded really "sick". I had the car towed to the dealer, where they told me the timing belt tensioner failed and it allowed the timing belt to jump "a great distance". Apparently, these are "interference" engines (a term I learned because of this incident) so the screwed up timing destroyed the engine. The dealer said it will cost 8,000 to completely replace the engine.
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I have a 2002 Mini Cooper I bought a year and a half ago. The last couple of months when I shut my car off I sometimes hear a buzz sound near the center console and my trip odometer resets to zero, and my LED clock resets to 12 Midnight. Sometimes it happens when you open the door after turning the car off. In the Mini's there is a feature that the windows automatically lower a 1/4 inch when you open the doors, allowing air to escape when you shut the door after exiting. When this happens, sometimes that triggers the "buzz" sound and the reset thing happens. This doesn't seem to effect anything else, its just bothersome because I keep track of my miles with the trip odemeter, and I have to keep correcting the clock. Oh Yeah! one more thing that happens, when i am using the Air Conditioner and slow down after full speed, there is what I would describe as a power surge. All the dash lights go off for a split second then come back on.
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I have recently noticed that there is a loud, high-pitched whistling sound coming from under my hood that has progressively gotten worse over the weeks. At first, it would only occur when I had my AC or heat on and would stop immediately once i turned the AC/heat off, and will also happen from time to time when I accelerate. Now, this noise is happening right when I start my car and takes a few seconds to stop.
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I might buy a 2013 Accent tomorrow, but the only big question remaining is the ticking sound coming from the engine when I pop the hood.
When I hear ticking I think of valve issues, but is a ticking sound totally normal for that engine? Is it okay or should I be worried?
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2011 Elantra GL.
Recently, we noticed a ticking sound coming from under the hood (the rate of "ticking" was proportional to the engine speed). We took the vehicle in to the local Hyundai dealership and didn't hear anything from them until 6 hours later. The news was interesting; they were going to perform a full engine replacement after consulting with Hyundai Canada. In my experience, a resolution of this large of a magnitude usually takes weeks of kicking and screaming for any large corporation to comply, however it seems like a pretty hasty conclusion, indicating to me that Hyundai might be already aware of such an issue...
So here is my question. We requested photos from the dealership, and they were able to send two pictures of one of the camshafts (not sure if it's the intake or exhaust cams), but the only thing that I could notice was some slight abrasion/wear; certainly not enough for me to ever come to the conclusion that a full engine swap was necessary. I've attached the pictures.
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The clutch went out and the repair people tell me to replace the master cylinder, the slave cylinder and other related components to the tune.
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In the past month or so I've noticed some weird behavior out of my car. 2006 Mini Cooper 130K miles on it (still going strong!!) Automatic.
Scenario 1 - Driving in D accelerating at a normal pace (read, not gunning it) the RPM's spike rapidly from 3K to 4K and the car almost sounds like it's redlining. Once it hits 59-60 MPH it drops back down to 3K RPM and the rest of the acceleration is normal.
Scenario 2 - Cruising on the highway at about 70+. Normally start taking the foot off the gas to slow down with traffic and when my speed drops to about 60 MPH the RPMs spike again from around 3K to about 4K. When the car gets below 60 MPH the RPMs drop again. If i let the car come to a stop the RPMs decrease normally without any other spikes.
Scenario 3 - Driving in sport mode (yeah buddy) around 20-30MPH it almost feels like the car is not upshifting and the rpms go crazy. jump from 2500 to about 4-4500 and finally the car lurks forward.
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How to repair a 2009 mini cooper that started misfiring? What is the most common cause for misfiring?
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My 2002 Mini Cooper has been a faithful trooper since we bought it in 2002. It has carried me around at track days embarrassing faster cars at the track (pretty much anything else that shows up at a track day) due to its handling, picked up the groceries, and ferried the kids to countless activities in the last 12 years. It has just about 90K miles. Since this spring it has been giving the impression that is overheating after running for as little as 15 minutes. We've changed the thermostat, radiator and had the head off to replace the gasket and check it for warping.
We've also bled the system thinking it could be air trapped somewhere. My mechanic says that it isn't actually overheating - there is no fluid boil and it isn't using any coolant up. There are no leaks. He thinks it could be a bad gauge. I called MiniMania and they agreed that it is not overheating really and suggested that it is an electrical issue. They doubted it is the gauge and suggested running the engine at idle with the radiator cap off so I could check the temperature of the coolant with a thermometer as the temperature gauge did its thing moving into the red.
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We have a 2006 Mini Cooper Cabrio with 55K miles. The car is a lot of fun, but lately I've run into a problem: when starting movement and engaging first gear, as I release the clutch and engage the engine - the car/engine shakes briefly. Sometimes just a little bit, sometimes quite severely, but always noticeable and resonating through the car. This happens when you apply very little gas (less noticeably) and when you give considerably more gas (shakes a lot more and when it engages - gives an abrupt kick).
This also happens in the second gear, but not to the same degree. Today this happened every time i've shifted into first or second and i'm getting worried that we are in for some expensive repair on a fairly low mileage car.
I'm not new to manual transmission and have learned to drive on a car with a stick. I've been behind the wheel for 20 years with driving manual on and off for at least half the time.
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I just bought a 2005 Mini Cooper with the SES light on. Error message said misfired piston, so got a tune up and an ignition coil. Went off for about a day and back on. Put fuel injector cleaner in. Went off for a day and back on. What to do? In this for several hundred bucks thus far.
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I have 26,000 miles on my 2006 Mini convertible manual transmission. It started making noise while in gear. Took in to my mechanic and he says there is metal in the transmission fluid and that the metal around the ball bearings has failed and that, if he can't repair it, I'll need a new transmission for about 6500.00 Is this a common problem and do I have any recourse with Mini? I am the original owner of the car, but, of course, it's no longer in warranty.
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Why does the ac smell like dirty feet when I first turn it on?
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I'm in the process of buying a used 2008 Mini Cooper S with 44000 miles in good conditions but I wanted to get an opinion regarding a rear bumper crack. Please take a look at the attached photo and tell me what you think, not sure how serious it is or how much it will cost me to fix so I can negotiate the price.
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My 2005 Mini Cooper, manual transmission, has 82K miles. About a month ago, I noticed a loud sound coming from the engine when at speeds above 60mph. Over the next few weeks, the noise started happening at lower speeds as well, 30mph and up. Took it to the dealership and was informed that I needed a new transmission, which came as a great shock to me. Quote to replace is $3,600.
I took it to a transmission specialist for a second opinion. He determined that it likely was the differential causing the issue but that this couldn't be purchased alone as Mini will only sell the entire transmission, not specific parts for it.
Along with the transmission, the dealership also said that I have three oil leaks, need the water pump replaced, air conditioner recharged, control arm bushings and rear breaks replaced. Plus some misc work adding up to $6,500, which includes the new transmission.
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I am considering buying a 2011 Mini Cooper. One of the issues I'm wondering about is that I have been told that the Oil Change Warning Light has to be re-set by a dealership. I don't need the light because I always change oil at 3 K regardless of what thing says, but I don't want to have to pay the dealer to re-set an annoying light. Right now I'm driving an '06 Civic and I can reset that myself (it's not a light, just shows percentage of usage).
The other issue, b/t/w is what to do about a spare tire since I don't plan to pay for new run-flats.
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