Mini - Cooper :: 2005 - Service Engine Soon Light Came On
May 17, 2016
OK, so my "Service Engine Soon" light came on recently. I tried the gas cap tightening suggestion. It turned off. A few miles down the road it came on again. I had a recall/service schedule (2005 model) so waited until I took it in, however the light turned off (again) before I went in. They did a whole service and (I believe) diagnostic and nothing came up. That was about a month ago and suddenly the morning the light came on again. I have some repairs/maintenance scheduled for end of July (gasket value leak and the right side the axles). The car is driving fine, no difference in feel/sounds.
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I just bought a 2005 Mini Cooper with the SES light on. Error message said misfired piston, so got a tune up and an ignition coil. Went off for about a day and back on. Put fuel injector cleaner in. Went off for a day and back on. What to do? In this for several hundred bucks thus far.
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2007 Mini Cooper S - Engine light stays on but when I have it checked no codes show up.
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Since Sept, my check engine light has come on a total of 6 times. Every time, I bring it into the dealership to get it fixed. The first time, they told me it was a loose gas cap. The next couple times they said that different codes were coming up, and they continually fix something (they've changed the sensor in the gas tank, changed the filter in the front and the back of the car), but nothing seems to do the trick. This last time, I got the car back right before Halloween, and the light came on. What the problem could be?
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My 2005 Mini Cooper, manual transmission, has 82K miles. About a month ago, I noticed a loud sound coming from the engine when at speeds above 60mph. Over the next few weeks, the noise started happening at lower speeds as well, 30mph and up. Took it to the dealership and was informed that I needed a new transmission, which came as a great shock to me. Quote to replace is $3,600.
I took it to a transmission specialist for a second opinion. He determined that it likely was the differential causing the issue but that this couldn't be purchased alone as Mini will only sell the entire transmission, not specific parts for it.
Along with the transmission, the dealership also said that I have three oil leaks, need the water pump replaced, air conditioner recharged, control arm bushings and rear breaks replaced. Plus some misc work adding up to $6,500, which includes the new transmission.
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I have a Mini Cooper 2005. Last month the battery died. The warning sign was that when I turned the key, there was a second or two pause where everything went dead. No lights at all in cabin and clock reset. Then it started up. It did that many times before the battery went dead. I got it charged and thought all was well but now the mini did the pause thing again and I fear that I am going to deal with a dead battery again.
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I am considering buying a 2011 Mini Cooper. One of the issues I'm wondering about is that I have been told that the Oil Change Warning Light has to be re-set by a dealership. I don't need the light because I always change oil at 3 K regardless of what thing says, but I don't want to have to pay the dealer to re-set an annoying light. Right now I'm driving an '06 Civic and I can reset that myself (it's not a light, just shows percentage of usage).
The other issue, b/t/w is what to do about a spare tire since I don't plan to pay for new run-flats.
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Minis are renowned for oil burning. They're replacing engine due to excessive oil burning. Are O2 sensors and Catalytic converters also effected, and should they replace them as well?
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I got my 2003 Mini Cooper out of the shop about 3 weeks ago.. They replaced the damper, the serpentine belt, thermostat, coolant gasket seal, rear rotors/breaks, bleeding of the breaks, and inner cv boot. Noted to get the oil pan gasket replace which i planned on doing in the upcoming week when i got an oil change but they put beside it was light leakage. All Power Steering was redone under a recall warranty mid July.
Yesterday earlier that morning my battery light came on but than proceeded to try off by the time i was back home. I drive my car in the afternoon, i notice that my battery light is on and continued to stay on. Then my temperature gauge goes all the way up. i open the hood, its nothing noticeably different. I sit there for quite some time and i drive it again to see if it would overheat. I drove about 3 miles to my in-laws and the car no longer overheated. I decide to drive it down to the AutoZone to check my battery and she tells me it weak to leave the car running to see if it recharges but thinks something pulling on the battery. (the battery is new barely over a year old) During the drive to the autozone and back to my mother in laws the car doesn't overheat but the battery light remains on. I leave the car running in the driveway a bit later i notice the car is smoking, literally hear the antifreeze boil in the car,antifreeze is all over the ground, and the temperature gauge is running hot but the cars fan was not running.
i'm not sure if these problems are connected but i never had either of these problems prior to get it worked on. My car has always started strong. The alternator could be going but all lights, electronics,door-locks, windows, heated seat are working. Furthermore, the car starts so strong every time, haven't had any symptoms of a bad alternator.I read it could be a belt issue but the belt and damper are newly replaced.
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The clutch went out and the repair people tell me to replace the master cylinder, the slave cylinder and other related components to the tune.
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In the past month or so I've noticed some weird behavior out of my car. 2006 Mini Cooper 130K miles on it (still going strong!!) Automatic.
Scenario 1 - Driving in D accelerating at a normal pace (read, not gunning it) the RPM's spike rapidly from 3K to 4K and the car almost sounds like it's redlining. Once it hits 59-60 MPH it drops back down to 3K RPM and the rest of the acceleration is normal.
Scenario 2 - Cruising on the highway at about 70+. Normally start taking the foot off the gas to slow down with traffic and when my speed drops to about 60 MPH the RPMs spike again from around 3K to about 4K. When the car gets below 60 MPH the RPMs drop again. If i let the car come to a stop the RPMs decrease normally without any other spikes.
Scenario 3 - Driving in sport mode (yeah buddy) around 20-30MPH it almost feels like the car is not upshifting and the rpms go crazy. jump from 2500 to about 4-4500 and finally the car lurks forward.
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How to repair a 2009 mini cooper that started misfiring? What is the most common cause for misfiring?
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My 2002 Mini Cooper has been a faithful trooper since we bought it in 2002. It has carried me around at track days embarrassing faster cars at the track (pretty much anything else that shows up at a track day) due to its handling, picked up the groceries, and ferried the kids to countless activities in the last 12 years. It has just about 90K miles. Since this spring it has been giving the impression that is overheating after running for as little as 15 minutes. We've changed the thermostat, radiator and had the head off to replace the gasket and check it for warping.
We've also bled the system thinking it could be air trapped somewhere. My mechanic says that it isn't actually overheating - there is no fluid boil and it isn't using any coolant up. There are no leaks. He thinks it could be a bad gauge. I called MiniMania and they agreed that it is not overheating really and suggested that it is an electrical issue. They doubted it is the gauge and suggested running the engine at idle with the radiator cap off so I could check the temperature of the coolant with a thermometer as the temperature gauge did its thing moving into the red.
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We have a 2006 Mini Cooper Cabrio with 55K miles. The car is a lot of fun, but lately I've run into a problem: when starting movement and engaging first gear, as I release the clutch and engage the engine - the car/engine shakes briefly. Sometimes just a little bit, sometimes quite severely, but always noticeable and resonating through the car. This happens when you apply very little gas (less noticeably) and when you give considerably more gas (shakes a lot more and when it engages - gives an abrupt kick).
This also happens in the second gear, but not to the same degree. Today this happened every time i've shifted into first or second and i'm getting worried that we are in for some expensive repair on a fairly low mileage car.
I'm not new to manual transmission and have learned to drive on a car with a stick. I've been behind the wheel for 20 years with driving manual on and off for at least half the time.
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I have 26,000 miles on my 2006 Mini convertible manual transmission. It started making noise while in gear. Took in to my mechanic and he says there is metal in the transmission fluid and that the metal around the ball bearings has failed and that, if he can't repair it, I'll need a new transmission for about 6500.00 Is this a common problem and do I have any recourse with Mini? I am the original owner of the car, but, of course, it's no longer in warranty.
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Why does the ac smell like dirty feet when I first turn it on?
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I'm in the process of buying a used 2008 Mini Cooper S with 44000 miles in good conditions but I wanted to get an opinion regarding a rear bumper crack. Please take a look at the attached photo and tell me what you think, not sure how serious it is or how much it will cost me to fix so I can negotiate the price.
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Just within the last 1000 miles my MINI has been randomly grinding into second gear (6 Speed Getrag Manual for the Cooper S) when turning right. It is a little notchy when traveling straight and beautifully smooth when turning left. When pulling out of my garage the other morning I went into second but purposely pulled the gear stick towards the right side of the gate and it did the same grinding thing that it does when going around right hand turns. It seems as though something is out of alignment? It feels like the shift linkage is not properly placing the internals of the transmission. It happens mostly when cold and once warm the random harsh grinding stops and it goes to simply really notchy.
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I have a 2003 Mini Cooper, and I'm having issues with the cabin blower fan. When it is cold outside, the fan works, but when it is hot outside, the fan doesn't work. It turns out, if I reach into the cabin airbox and give it a boost, it will start spinning again.
My guess is that the grease is old and junked up in there, and so when it is hot, it gets sticky and seizes up the motor. The main problem is on this year, the interior blower motor is only removable by taking the dash off and it is a big pain.
I want to ask if there are any recommended sprays or cleaners I can use on it without having to remove the dash. From the cabin filter airbox I can reach right into the fan's axle.
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My 2002 mini 6-speed stick licks to get stuck in the I park it in when its cold. After driving in that gear for 4 minutes it warms up and let's loose.
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I have a 2 door 2009 Mini Cooper that has a weird intermittent problem. When I am idling -- like at a stoplight -- I hear a slight bump underneath the car. The sound is as if a mechanic has rolled under the car and sits up, banging his head on the undercarriage... every ten seconds... exactly. THE WEIRD THING, though, is that after I turn the car completely off, it will continue for roughly a minute and then finish off with 3 bumps. ba-dump-bump It's all very soft but quite distinct.
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