Mini - Cooper :: 2002 - Buzz Sound Near Center Console / Trip Odometer And LED Clock Reset
Jul 22, 2012
I have a 2002 Mini Cooper I bought a year and a half ago. The last couple of months when I shut my car off I sometimes hear a buzz sound near the center console and my trip odometer resets to zero, and my LED clock resets to 12 Midnight. Sometimes it happens when you open the door after turning the car off. In the Mini's there is a feature that the windows automatically lower a 1/4 inch when you open the doors, allowing air to escape when you shut the door after exiting. When this happens, sometimes that triggers the "buzz" sound and the reset thing happens. This doesn't seem to effect anything else, its just bothersome because I keep track of my miles with the trip odemeter, and I have to keep correcting the clock. Oh Yeah! one more thing that happens, when i am using the Air Conditioner and slow down after full speed, there is what I would describe as a power surge. All the dash lights go off for a split second then come back on.
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Every once in awhile my car "resets." When I turn the key to the off position, my clock and trip odometer resets to 12:00 and 0.0mi and my radar detector shows a warning of low voltage.. I looked at all the fuses, and they are all good. And it seems to be intermittent.
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My 2002 Mini Cooper has been a faithful trooper since we bought it in 2002. It has carried me around at track days embarrassing faster cars at the track (pretty much anything else that shows up at a track day) due to its handling, picked up the groceries, and ferried the kids to countless activities in the last 12 years. It has just about 90K miles. Since this spring it has been giving the impression that is overheating after running for as little as 15 minutes. We've changed the thermostat, radiator and had the head off to replace the gasket and check it for warping.
We've also bled the system thinking it could be air trapped somewhere. My mechanic says that it isn't actually overheating - there is no fluid boil and it isn't using any coolant up. There are no leaks. He thinks it could be a bad gauge. I called MiniMania and they agreed that it is not overheating really and suggested that it is an electrical issue. They doubted it is the gauge and suggested running the engine at idle with the radiator cap off so I could check the temperature of the coolant with a thermometer as the temperature gauge did its thing moving into the red.
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I'd heard that the new Prius V would give you stats on your latest trip. I see where it will tell you how long you've driven, but I was under the impression that it also did your MPG for the latest trip too?
Also, my 2008 would automatically reset the trip odo upon fill up. Not the tripA or tripB odo's, but the one on the consumption screen. Does the new one do something similar? I new at every fill up that I would reset the MPG's for that tank whenever the miles reset. I can't find an analog to that in the new screens.
How are people calculating MPG's per tank, computer wise?
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My 2002 mini 6-speed stick licks to get stuck in the I park it in when its cold. After driving in that gear for 4 minutes it warms up and let's loose.
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I have been having electrical issues with my 2001 manual transmission Jetta. At times I turn the car off, remove the key and the radio stays on, trip mileage and clock will reset. I also had where I was at a stopped at a traffic light and the ABS, engine light, and another light (not sure which one, it was too fast) flashed on for half a second. What should be looked at first and possible changed?
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Car: 2004 Mini Cooper, 103k miles
Issue 1: car shake- At about 70 mph the whole car (pedals, steering wheel, seats) has a shimmy. Car has 4 new (balanced) tires and the front wheel bearings have been replaced. I've been told possibly motor mounts.
Issue 2: clunky sound- we have the requisite pockmarked roads. When the car is cold there is a sound of something loose in the back end. Nothing has been found to be loose but the sound is... annoying. I've checked the spare tire and it is secure. What that could be?
Issue 3: violent wheel shake- Not exactly the most replicate of issues. Started a year ago in June - three times total now. When traveling at higher speed (65 plus) for longer times (75 min or more) when I'm not accelerating the steering wheel grabs and pulls to the right. It almost feels like the brakes are grabbing on one side but there's no noticeable wear on the brake pads. It takes quite a bit of strength to hold the wheel straight and when I accelerate, it dissipates. What could that be?
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I took my car in for an oil change and they said I should get the fuel injector and upper intake manifold and valve cleaning treatment. When I picked up the car I noticed a rattle or low pitched ticking sound coming from under the hood. The car has an automatic transmission and the noise frequency increases and decreases with the rpm's. It only happens with the car in "drive". For the seasoned followers, it sounds like the sound we got from fastening baseball cards onto our bike frames to make noise as the wheels turned - just describing the sound. When I took it back to the Mini dealership in Phoenix (who shall remain anonymous), they said I needed a new transmission.
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I bought a 2015 Camry LE, with manual AC.
I just noticed that every time I turn the temperature knob, there is a small buzz/hiss noise come from the center console. the more you turn the knob, the noise last longer, however, the sound disappear soon once you stop turning the knob.I tested this when the car is parked with power on but engine is not running, this noise is also noticeable in City drive if you audio is off.
I did some research and know that it is from the Heat blend door actuator/Air mix door motor. When you change the temperature, the motor is going to change the direction of the heat blend door.
My questions is : Is this noise noticeable on every Camry?
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I've read through my manual, but can't find anything on how to actually lock the odometer at zero when I don't need it. Trip A is set to my oil change mileage and I just want Trip B to be off or at zero. 2012 F150 XL SBRC, 5.0 V8 4x4, 3.55 gears....
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I have a 1997 f150 4.6L 4x4 Standard Transmission and today I hopped in it to go to work, and the Speedo, Trip Odometer, and Odometer all are not working.
This is the first time it has happened to me, what could cause this or have a problem similar to this and know how to fix it?
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Three things happened with my Phaeton today.
First, when I pulled out of the driveway, there was an "achy" should as I turned the steering wheel. I sound like it coming from under the hood in the area of the steering mechanisms. I am hoping it just might be low power steering fluid?
Second, my engine warning light (amber) came on after going through a car wash. Everything seems to run fine, so I plan to just wait and see if it turns itself off again.
Last - and only as an irritation - I noted that my trip odometer on the front dash display won't reset when I go into the console "trip data" and press reset. Am I doing something wrong?
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The clutch went out and the repair people tell me to replace the master cylinder, the slave cylinder and other related components to the tune.
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In the past month or so I've noticed some weird behavior out of my car. 2006 Mini Cooper 130K miles on it (still going strong!!) Automatic.
Scenario 1 - Driving in D accelerating at a normal pace (read, not gunning it) the RPM's spike rapidly from 3K to 4K and the car almost sounds like it's redlining. Once it hits 59-60 MPH it drops back down to 3K RPM and the rest of the acceleration is normal.
Scenario 2 - Cruising on the highway at about 70+. Normally start taking the foot off the gas to slow down with traffic and when my speed drops to about 60 MPH the RPMs spike again from around 3K to about 4K. When the car gets below 60 MPH the RPMs drop again. If i let the car come to a stop the RPMs decrease normally without any other spikes.
Scenario 3 - Driving in sport mode (yeah buddy) around 20-30MPH it almost feels like the car is not upshifting and the rpms go crazy. jump from 2500 to about 4-4500 and finally the car lurks forward.
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How to repair a 2009 mini cooper that started misfiring? What is the most common cause for misfiring?
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We have a 2006 Mini Cooper Cabrio with 55K miles. The car is a lot of fun, but lately I've run into a problem: when starting movement and engaging first gear, as I release the clutch and engage the engine - the car/engine shakes briefly. Sometimes just a little bit, sometimes quite severely, but always noticeable and resonating through the car. This happens when you apply very little gas (less noticeably) and when you give considerably more gas (shakes a lot more and when it engages - gives an abrupt kick).
This also happens in the second gear, but not to the same degree. Today this happened every time i've shifted into first or second and i'm getting worried that we are in for some expensive repair on a fairly low mileage car.
I'm not new to manual transmission and have learned to drive on a car with a stick. I've been behind the wheel for 20 years with driving manual on and off for at least half the time.
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I just bought a 2005 Mini Cooper with the SES light on. Error message said misfired piston, so got a tune up and an ignition coil. Went off for about a day and back on. Put fuel injector cleaner in. Went off for a day and back on. What to do? In this for several hundred bucks thus far.
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I have 26,000 miles on my 2006 Mini convertible manual transmission. It started making noise while in gear. Took in to my mechanic and he says there is metal in the transmission fluid and that the metal around the ball bearings has failed and that, if he can't repair it, I'll need a new transmission for about 6500.00 Is this a common problem and do I have any recourse with Mini? I am the original owner of the car, but, of course, it's no longer in warranty.
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Why does the ac smell like dirty feet when I first turn it on?
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I'm in the process of buying a used 2008 Mini Cooper S with 44000 miles in good conditions but I wanted to get an opinion regarding a rear bumper crack. Please take a look at the attached photo and tell me what you think, not sure how serious it is or how much it will cost me to fix so I can negotiate the price.
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My 2005 Mini Cooper, manual transmission, has 82K miles. About a month ago, I noticed a loud sound coming from the engine when at speeds above 60mph. Over the next few weeks, the noise started happening at lower speeds as well, 30mph and up. Took it to the dealership and was informed that I needed a new transmission, which came as a great shock to me. Quote to replace is $3,600.
I took it to a transmission specialist for a second opinion. He determined that it likely was the differential causing the issue but that this couldn't be purchased alone as Mini will only sell the entire transmission, not specific parts for it.
Along with the transmission, the dealership also said that I have three oil leaks, need the water pump replaced, air conditioner recharged, control arm bushings and rear breaks replaced. Plus some misc work adding up to $6,500, which includes the new transmission.
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