Mercury - Sable - Transmissions :: 2004 - Zero Engine Power Reaching To Tires In Any Gear
Jul 29, 2011
My wife's 2004 Mercury Sable broke down on the highway last night. We had it towed to the nearest Ford Dealership and are awaiting the official diagnosis. I am 99% sure it is transmission, as the engine didn't die, but zero of engines power is reaching tires in any gear.
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I own a 2004 Sable with 55361 miles. I purchased the car used with 16,658 miles on it along with an extended warranty. July 24, 2012, my car was towed to a transmission shop, due to the fact, that the car would not move, in any gear. A phone car from the transmission shop, stated that I needed a new transmission, & alternator. I have always taken my car in for routine maintenance. Needless to say I was not happy with the finds. I searched the internet, to see if there were other consumers having the same issues, and there were. Are you telling me that Ford, can't make a product to go past 55,361 miles without breaking down. I have always purchased American, but not that will change.
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This first started happening about a year ago. started the car and it seemed fine to put it in gear to drive stepped on the gas and there was no power. the car moved forward slowly and felt like the engine was skipping and catching and then it would die. took it to the shop and it started right up first try for them. they drove it and it was fine. ever since then, it happens at random times on and off. I'm not sure if its bad fuel or something it just doesn't make sense to me.
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I have a mercury sable 1997. It stocks a first gear and doesn't change more. Before, it was change the rotation ( sometimes the stayed higher and sometimes low) without I pull or push the accelerator. The transmission oil is ok, and the car didn't have noisy or other symptoms of transmission problem. What Are doing it? What I need to do?
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I have a 2003 Mercury Sable with 139,000 miles on it. A few weeks ago I had been driving on a long trip and stopped for gas. As I was exiting the gas station and went to accelerate as I pulled out, I felt a shaking and the car went out of gear. The car will start now, but pushing on the gas does absolutely nothing whether the car is in drive or reverse. I'm trying to decide to have it fixed or to sell it at this point. Is this a transmission problem, as I suspect?
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1995 Mercury Sable GS3 liter. The check engine light is on. More importantly, when I put the car into drive or overdrive, the transmission stays in 3rd gear, and will not shift up or down. When I put the car into first or reverse, they work normally.
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2002 sable v ... Replaced egr sensor and idle motor and pvc valve. Idles at park but in gear after 2000 rpm.... High idle back till 2 mins while driving but put it in neutral and idle comes back and stays till drive - 2000 rpm then bad ??? No codes ....
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One of the possible locations for the CD changer for my 2004 Mercury Sable in the Owner's Manual said right side cargo area storage compartment. Is that the back of the wagon?
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Recently purchased a 1997 Mercury Sable and all because my Camry after 13 years finally gave up the ghost. "SES" light came on, and I filled up with gas and used Lucas car product as well. The light went off 2 days later. 5 days later, it came back on. Purchased CRC spray and cleaned the air mass flow component. Light goes off. A week later and it's back on again. I figure an 02 sensor needs replacing. Took car to the mechanic that sold me the car and their diagnostic test stated 1 sensor in bank 1 and another sensor in bank 2. Okay, fine. ordered only 1 sensor and told me that it was the "most imporant" sensor as it relayed to the catalyst. fixed it and no more than 7 miles up the road, YES, it came back on. Unhooked the battery cable, light off all day until about 30 minutes ago. Pulled into an Advance Auto Parts store. Diagnostic test showed the 2 errors that the mechanic YESTERDAY was getting before he "fixed the problem."
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I have a 2003 Mercury Sable with about 80,000 miles on it. Just took a 900 mile road trip across the desert and 10 miles away from my destination the car stalled. At the time the engine temperature was totally normal and there was more than enough fuel in the tank. The next day I got the oil changed (it was about 1,000 miles overdue...) and also got the fuel filter changed (my mechanic told me that whoever changed it last put it in BACKWARDS!
So happens it was the DEALERSHIP! Ugh). Still the engine is acting funny. At very low speeds the engine will sort of hiccough and jerk just for a moment. In super slow stop and go traffic the engine JERKS when I go from a standstill to a low speed. I need to drive this thing another 900 miles in about 7 weeks and I'd like to have this figured out before then.
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I have a 2002 Mercury sable and have a problem with power windows. When you hit the driver's door window up button, you hear a relay constantly clicking under the dash, fealing the relays up there it seems to be one of the top 2 in the bank of 4 at the top of the fuse box feeling for vibration as it clicks. Any of the other buttons results in a single click then nothing and if the door's open as it was when I worked on it,the door chime stops and no window buttons make clicks or anything until I hit the driver's door up button again. Now if I pull one of the relays I mentioned, hitting the window up and down buttons from the driver's door does make the relay click once when pressed, once when released.
Am I correct in thinking this is a power window relay under the hood, voltage seems alright where I checked it but not having a wiring diagram or anything I have no clue what's what I only checked as well as I could from the fuse box. Another interesting issue which we've had off and on for a while now is when you put the car in gear, it will ding for about 3 minutes, seems more like an hour. No lights or anything, is this all related and I'm all wet on the window relay, or do I have something else going on here?
I need the windows to open, I got sick of replacing AC compressors so pulled it out so we have no AC, it gets hot in there fast. I couldn't care less about the dinging if that's unrelated, the windows worked last I knew which was only a few weeks ago, that dinging was something it did in the fall when someone ever so nicely broke in to the car making the driver's door no longer lock with the electric locks, another problem I can't find but that wasn't a huge concern, that door's obviously been apart many times in the past so I'm not the first to have problems with it.
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I have a 2001 Mercury Sable with 114k miles. Just bought it and it ran fine for the most part until one day while coming home from work. It was still running but lost a lot of power and wouldn't go fast at all. I took it to my mechanic and he told me that this car has 3 converters on the exhaust system. First of all, I think having 3 is overkill and secondly, I am wondering why these things are so expensive. The one up front that mounts to my manifold is $350 just for the part. The one in the back can be bypassed (legally) but why did they make this system so complex and what are my options at this point? If I found a Sable that was being parted out, could I use the converters from that? Would it have to be the same year?
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i have a 1999 mercury cougar and for almost a year when I drive it on the highway then get off and go to drive again it gives me a hard shift and will continue doing so, but if i turn the car off then back on it doesn't do it, very weird, but i got the codes and not sure what my next step would be to fixing it p1744- TCC system perform p1519 - IMRC stuck closed again this only happened when i drive the car for about 10-15 min on the highway then get off...
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I recently acquired a 2003 Mercury Sable from a friend and there is a problem with the air conditioning. The car has digital controls. I select the Max AC button, turn the temperature all the way down (60) an the fan all the way up, but it only blows warm air. I can hear and see the AC compressor cycling fairly quickly. The clutch (I think) engages for about one second and it will reengage after about 5 seconds, but again, it only says engaged for about one second.
What could be the problem? I've read the AC system might not have enough pressure and needs to be recharged. Or... the orifice tube is clogged, bad AC pressure switch, or the actuator that closes the heater door might be disconnected.
How quickly should a properly functions AC compressor cycle? The car was not driven much over the past year or two as it was my friend's grandfathers. I may end up taking it to a shop but I don't want to get ripped off. How should I approach this?
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Got a 2002 mercury Sable.. Always stalls out at lights.. Won't idle will stall if you don't give it gas... Also gas pedal cable broke and a spring is broke too.. What might be wrong with engine.
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i have a 2001 mercury sable what im getting is its will not start but starts on occasion like today it started fine this morning did errands before work drove it turned it off short period and then started just fine and then drove to work after work it did not want to start tried every thing check engine light is not on and has not come on im am getting stumped i had to leave it in the parking lot at my work so my question is what could make it do this where it starts on occasion and then when sitting for a period of time will not start it cranks but just does not start
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I have a '99 Mercury Sable with the 3.0 24 Valve DOHC V6. The car occasionally will not start. It only happens after the car has been driven and warmed up, shut off, and then an attempted restart. This problem has occurred in all sorts of temps. Sometimes it will start within 30 minutes, sometimes it takes overnight. But it will start. I have already replaced the fuel pump relay. Is the fuel pump needing to be replaced (b/c it is failing slowly), or is this problem located somewhere else?
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Bought this car, drove it home, when I went to restart it nothing happened. Put in a new battery and still nothing. The starter will arc with a screwdriver but not engage. All the lights and and electrical work so I am thinking its either the neutral safety or the ignition. Is there a way to figure out which one it is with out buying both of them?
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92 mercury sable 3.8so the car just started this on the 4th. it not able to turn off, switch the key to off pull it out car keeps running, been pulling the battery cable, but was told I'd hurt my alternator if kept doing it that way. just trying to fix it, so I tired switching out the ignition cylinder. that didn't fix it and also checked all my fuses they were all fine. My next idea is to change out the whole ignition switch instead of just the cylinder.
Now the second problem that i was trying to nail down before the other started was a issue with the car stalling at idle. it only happens if the car is up to temperature and it's a hot day. plus 75 Fahrenheit. just trying to go with cheapest parts and work my way up i change the air and fuel filters. then this other issue started and took priority.
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A month ago I was pulling onto Hwy 5 and the car stalled. I pulled over and restarted the car - no prob. But, the check engine light came on. I took it to the shop and they said that the check engine light code said there was a problem with the fuel pump. Unfortunately they couldn't find anything wrong with the pump. They reset the check engine light and it didn't come back on and the car ran fine...until Sunday.
On Sunday, I tried to start the car. It would start but only ran for a second or two and then shut down. I took it back to the shop thinking it was the fuel pump failing but they say the fuel pump seems ok, they've replaced the fuel filter but it still won't start. They seem to flummoxed. What might be going on?
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I recently purchased a 2004 Mercury Sable with about 112K miles on it. I am having some troubles with my car and I'm not sure where to start first in repairing it. I recently took my car to a mechanic because accelerating on the highway or going up hills made my car sound engine run very hard and loud, my RPMs went up to 3K and my speed dropped to 15 mph (which is a disaster when you're on the highway and hit a steep grade). My car absolutely cannot do any sort of hill so the mechanic suggested that either he or I replace one of the catalytic converters. He showed me which one he thought was throwing the error code. I replaced that catalytic converter and I thought my problems were solved because I could accelerate without difficulty.
However, a day later I tried to drive it up a hill and got the exact same response as before. RPMS jump up and the speed drops down to 15 mph and I've just about got the pedal to the floor. I have friends who repair cars as a hobby and they disagree with each other where I should go from here. One friend says replace the muffler and resonator (possible blockage that cannot bear any stress under a load...like going up a hill). Another friend says replace the third catalytic converter (one was replaced when we bought the car by the dealership, and I just replaced another one). He says when one catalytic converter goes the others are not far behind.
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