I have a 2000 Mercury Sable that will not start. The battery is good. All the dash lights come on when you turn the key and I can hear the fuel pump, pump up. The starter does not make any noise, nothing happens at all.
View 2 Replies2003 Sable, 70K miles, doesn't make a sound when we turn the key to start it, sometimes. When it does start it runs fine, has a new battery, and the starter looks good.
View 6 RepliesBought this car, drove it home, when I went to restart it nothing happened. Put in a new battery and still nothing. The starter will arc with a screwdriver but not engage. All the lights and and electrical work so I am thinking its either the neutral safety or the ignition. Is there a way to figure out which one it is with out buying both of them?
View 4 RepliesGot a 2002 mercury Sable.. Always stalls out at lights.. Won't idle will stall if you don't give it gas... Also gas pedal cable broke and a spring is broke too.. What might be wrong with engine.
View 2 Repliesi have a 2001 mercury sable what im getting is its will not start but starts on occasion like today it started fine this morning did errands before work drove it turned it off short period and then started just fine and then drove to work after work it did not want to start tried every thing check engine light is not on and has not come on im am getting stumped i had to leave it in the parking lot at my work so my question is what could make it do this where it starts on occasion and then when sitting for a period of time will not start it cranks but just does not start
View 2 RepliesI have a '99 Mercury Sable with the 3.0 24 Valve DOHC V6. The car occasionally will not start. It only happens after the car has been driven and warmed up, shut off, and then an attempted restart. This problem has occurred in all sorts of temps. Sometimes it will start within 30 minutes, sometimes it takes overnight. But it will start. I have already replaced the fuel pump relay. Is the fuel pump needing to be replaced (b/c it is failing slowly), or is this problem located somewhere else?
View 12 RepliesI changed the starter and the ignition connector and the battery is charged car won't turn over, need to solve problem...
View 5 RepliesI am completely lost now, spent alot of time trying to get the pulley off to replace the bearing, finally got that done, turned on the car, and it dies almost instantly unless i have my foot on the gas.... it runs really rough until i rev it up to at least 2K.
View 8 RepliesI started the car this morning, plugged the phone charger into the lighter socket, noticed the charger light wasn't on, pressed the charger in tighter, the car started to run funny, then it cut off. Lights work, radio won't work, all fuses are alright upon several visual inspections. Car wants to turn over but won't start. I tried disconnecting the negative battery cable to see if the car would revert back to "normal". I have never had a problem with this car in the two years I've had it; the battery was purchased brand new in November of 2011. I unplugged the cigarette lighter to see if that would work but nothing so far. Could it be the ignition switch?!
View 3 RepliesI recently acquired a 2003 Mercury Sable from a friend and there is a problem with the air conditioning. The car has digital controls. I select the Max AC button, turn the temperature all the way down (60) an the fan all the way up, but it only blows warm air. I can hear and see the AC compressor cycling fairly quickly. The clutch (I think) engages for about one second and it will reengage after about 5 seconds, but again, it only says engaged for about one second.
What could be the problem? I've read the AC system might not have enough pressure and needs to be recharged. Or... the orifice tube is clogged, bad AC pressure switch, or the actuator that closes the heater door might be disconnected.
How quickly should a properly functions AC compressor cycle? The car was not driven much over the past year or two as it was my friend's grandfathers. I may end up taking it to a shop but I don't want to get ripped off. How should I approach this?
I just put in a new starting battery, and it still won't start. When I turn the key to start, the dash just goes dark. It had been sitting for about three months.
2001 Prius
92 mercury sable 3.8so the car just started this on the 4th. it not able to turn off, switch the key to off pull it out car keeps running, been pulling the battery cable, but was told I'd hurt my alternator if kept doing it that way. just trying to fix it, so I tired switching out the ignition cylinder. that didn't fix it and also checked all my fuses they were all fine. My next idea is to change out the whole ignition switch instead of just the cylinder.
Now the second problem that i was trying to nail down before the other started was a issue with the car stalling at idle. it only happens if the car is up to temperature and it's a hot day. plus 75 Fahrenheit. just trying to go with cheapest parts and work my way up i change the air and fuel filters. then this other issue started and took priority.
A month ago I was pulling onto Hwy 5 and the car stalled. I pulled over and restarted the car - no prob. But, the check engine light came on. I took it to the shop and they said that the check engine light code said there was a problem with the fuel pump. Unfortunately they couldn't find anything wrong with the pump. They reset the check engine light and it didn't come back on and the car ran fine...until Sunday.
On Sunday, I tried to start the car. It would start but only ran for a second or two and then shut down. I took it back to the shop thinking it was the fuel pump failing but they say the fuel pump seems ok, they've replaced the fuel filter but it still won't start. They seem to flummoxed. What might be going on?
I recently purchased a 2004 Mercury Sable with about 112K miles on it. I am having some troubles with my car and I'm not sure where to start first in repairing it. I recently took my car to a mechanic because accelerating on the highway or going up hills made my car sound engine run very hard and loud, my RPMs went up to 3K and my speed dropped to 15 mph (which is a disaster when you're on the highway and hit a steep grade). My car absolutely cannot do any sort of hill so the mechanic suggested that either he or I replace one of the catalytic converters. He showed me which one he thought was throwing the error code. I replaced that catalytic converter and I thought my problems were solved because I could accelerate without difficulty.
However, a day later I tried to drive it up a hill and got the exact same response as before. RPMS jump up and the speed drops down to 15 mph and I've just about got the pedal to the floor. I have friends who repair cars as a hobby and they disagree with each other where I should go from here. One friend says replace the muffler and resonator (possible blockage that cannot bear any stress under a load...like going up a hill). Another friend says replace the third catalytic converter (one was replaced when we bought the car by the dealership, and I just replaced another one). He says when one catalytic converter goes the others are not far behind.
One of the possible locations for the CD changer for my 2004 Mercury Sable in the Owner's Manual said right side cargo area storage compartment. Is that the back of the wagon?
View 2 RepliesI have a 2002 Subaru Outback Wagon. In May this year the OEM battery finally wore out, I was feeling poor so I bought a used battery from the local auto parts store. 2 months later, one day my car started chugging like it was having trouble starting and sounded like the battery was dying but then did start. Later that day it wouldn't start at all. Wouldn't turn over at all, but dash lights came on with key turn. Tried to jump it, wouldn't jump start. I bought a refurbed starter, had it put it, car starts.
A week later the same thing happened. Won't jump, no turn over, dash lights on when key turn. Had the battery tested, it was "good". Had the starter pulled, it was bad, put another refurbed starter in. Also replaced cables to the battery, and the clamp things that go on the cables to the battery. A week later, same thing, won't turn over, dash lights on with key turn. I was in the Costco parking lot when it happened this time, and got the tire mechanic to try to jump it. It jumped but was chugging like crazy and smoke came out of somewhere. The mechanic said he really thought it was a bad battery, that it sounded like the motor was trying to run off the alternator. I bought a new battery from Costco, and returned the used one to the parts store. When the used one was taken out, the mechanic said he could smell battery acid and it might have had a bad cell.
Now, the car will start when the engine is cold, but when I drive somewhere and it gets nice and hot (I live in Florida), it will not start again unless it is completely cold, or I get a jump. At least it will jump start now without a problem. I have had a mechanic use his little tool to check for computer codes, and of course there are none. I need to solve it not starting at all unless it is stone cold. My question is, what do you think is wrong?
My frend has a 89 Sebring that won't start all the dash light come on but turn the key and it doesn't do a thing....
View 8 RepliesThis morning I went to start my car and it wouldn't start. So naturally I had it jumped and it started. When it did there was white smoke coming out of the tailpipe. I do want to mention that 2 days ago it was really low on oil and I added 3qts. It is almost 3,000miles over its oil change but this is the first time since I have had the car that the oil has not been changed when it should be. Do you think it just needs a tune up and oil change? My car is a 99' Mercury Sable with over 100,000 miles.
View 11 Replies2001 Mercury Sable? I recently have gotten to use a 2001 Sable that is a perfectly great car. Low mileage, (43,000) fully loaded etc. However, it was obviously not driven very much, once a week back and forth to the beauty shop, but it was not garaged... mostly parked under a carport or a tree. What keeps happening is the Low coolant light comes on after it has been driven a while. The car has been checked out, and the coolant levels are fine... that's easy to see... no leaks were found. Recommended repairs were Trans Flush, Belt, and Fuel Injection service. I have noticed that after the light comes on the AC stops working as well on the Max setting and I lose fan speed adjustment ability. The way I know that is because when I turn the AC to AUTO and the fan on high, it blows harder. I have also noticed that after driving it with the light on, when I stop the car I can smell radiator fluid - but I haven't spotted any leaks - but I haven't looked very hard because mostly I just stop driving it. What may be causing the light to come on? Is it actually related to the AC, or is that a separate problem, OR is it a computer problem? Has there been a recall on this? Is it something that I need to worry about?
View 11 RepliesThe problem I'm having is with a 1994 mercury sable 3.8Let me start off with the things I've fixed, water pump, thermostat, radiator, complete head job done profesionally, and fan is straight wired to run on high all the time.
Now the interesting part. The car immediately overheard when the AC is turned on and only when it's on. It only overheats when your moving, not when your in park or in stopped traffic. What the heck is going on with it? All fluids are changed regularly and full. i unplugged the temp gauge sensor when running and it did not drop the needle does this mean it's bad?
I have a problem with a 2002 Mercury sable. At idle and under acceleration, it has a miss, it's worse when cold then improves when it's warm but never goes away and almost seems to come and go when driving. It's definitely worse going slow or idling. The check engine light is also on, I scanned the codes and it came up with 4 cylinders misfiring. codes were p0301 p0302 p0303 p0305 p0316 to be specific. I changed the spark plugs last weekend, how it ran at all is something I'll never understand they were so bad, obviously original with 150,000 miles on the engine.
It's a little better now but not much. Where I should look next? I've been told a lot of things but I can't keep throwing money at this, I'm unemployed so really the next major attempt is probably the last. Anything I should try? If it was carbureted with the old distributor I'd have this fixed in no time but fuel injection and computers, coil packs, all totally new to me. No white smoke out the exhaust, no funny noises just a miss and check engine light with only the codes above.