Mercury - Sable :: 2002 Stalling - Speedometer Needle Pulsating When Go From Park To Reverse Or Drive
Feb 2, 2011
It appears electrical. With it running and this first symptom usually guarantees that it will stall. You go from park to reverse or drive the speedometer needle will begin pulsating. I have notice if this is not happening it won't happen. Next standing still but in drive or reverse if you turn the heater, radio, lights or the AC pump kicks on. Boom the car stall and almost act like the key switch was turned off then back on. It also has happened while moving but it does not stall but all of the dash light pop on as if you just turn the car on.
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2002 sable v ... Replaced egr sensor and idle motor and pvc valve. Idles at park but in gear after 2000 rpm.... High idle back till 2 mins while driving but put it in neutral and idle comes back and stays till drive - 2000 rpm then bad ??? No codes ....
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Some guy I know was driving his 99 Mercury Sable Le about 30 mph when the speedometer suddenly died. Why did the speedometer suddenly die? The car continued to run albeit a bit sluggishly. He then stopped and turned off the ignition. He had been driving the car for only 5 minutes and the heat gauge was at the normal midpoint where it remained for almost an hour before declining. Why did the heat gauge take so long to decline? There also is a precedent to this puzzle. A couple weeks ago, he was driving the car 55 mph when the speedometer fluctuated wildly from 0 to 55. He stopped and after 10 minutes resumed driving without a hitch. Now he's had the 30 mph speedometer problem. In neither instance did the engine repair light appear. What's going on with the speedometer and the heat gauge? Where are those Magliozzi brothers when you need them?
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my mercury sable had a leak in the lower intake manifold, so I got on it and finished it last saturday, on monday I was on my way home when I stopped to turn on my road and my speedometer just stopped working, it dropped to 0mph, what can I do to fix it?
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I have a 2003 Mercury Sable. There is a burning smell/fumes whenever I am stopped at a light or put the car in park. The smell comes from the drivers side but I don't smell anything when I am moving. What could be causing this?
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1995 Mercury Sable GS3 liter. The check engine light is on. More importantly, when I put the car into drive or overdrive, the transmission stays in 3rd gear, and will not shift up or down. When I put the car into first or reverse, they work normally.
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Got a 2002 mercury Sable.. Always stalls out at lights.. Won't idle will stall if you don't give it gas... Also gas pedal cable broke and a spring is broke too.. What might be wrong with engine.
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I have a problem with a 2002 Mercury sable. At idle and under acceleration, it has a miss, it's worse when cold then improves when it's warm but never goes away and almost seems to come and go when driving. It's definitely worse going slow or idling. The check engine light is also on, I scanned the codes and it came up with 4 cylinders misfiring. codes were p0301 p0302 p0303 p0305 p0316 to be specific. I changed the spark plugs last weekend, how it ran at all is something I'll never understand they were so bad, obviously original with 150,000 miles on the engine.
It's a little better now but not much. Where I should look next? I've been told a lot of things but I can't keep throwing money at this, I'm unemployed so really the next major attempt is probably the last. Anything I should try? If it was carbureted with the old distributor I'd have this fixed in no time but fuel injection and computers, coil packs, all totally new to me. No white smoke out the exhaust, no funny noises just a miss and check engine light with only the codes above.
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I was on my way to the doctors office while my car acted up on the highway. My Brakes deployed randomly while going 60mph, along with my AC stopping and a 3-5 of warning lights going off (in a panic state that I can't remember what lights, with the exception of the break light). This happened for 5-10 second then the car drove fine, never stalled or turned off. Not really sure what could cause this.
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2002 Camry, Automatic Transmission
Have an occasional problem. When shifting from park to drive/reverse, I occasionally get a loud, brief (1 -2 seconds) rattling noise from the engine compartment. It's my daughter's car so not sure yet if this is a cold start only issue or if present after car has been driven, then stopped and re-started. The problem does only occur occasionally. Where to start troubleshooting? I've looked for loose external pasts with nothing found.
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I just bought this 2001 Mercury Grand Marquis with 87k on it. It runs and idles smoothly, good gas mileage, no sign of trouble--except a cold start. It actually starts fine, but when I shift into drive the engine dies. If its 0, it just dies. If I idle it a minute or two, it will do OK. At 20 degrees, it slows like its going to die, but then recovers. Once I have it running in drive (or reverse) it behaves completely normally. Since this thing is presumably computer controlled with no adjustments, I am puzzled. The only clue is that this was an estate-probated car, and probably sat around for 6 months or so. I had no clue on purchase--probably because the seller warmed it up before I got there to try it out.
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Recently I've noticed that every time when shifting from park to drive and occasionally from reverse to drive in my 05 Golf GLS, I would have to remain off the gas for 3-4 seconds otherwise the car would jerk forward. If I press on the gas ever so slightly, the rpm would go up to around 1000 then jerk. Why this is happening?
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I'm the original owner of a 2005 Mariner (3.0L V-6, 114K miles). We live in Central TX, so we are just starting to experience cooler weather (40's - 50's at night, 60's - 70's daytime). At this time of year and through the winter, this Mariner develops an annoying rough idle. It is more like a strong vibration when in Drive or Reverse, not really a miss in the engine. Increasing the idle speed with the accelerator pedal works, and it does get somewhat better as the engine gets to normal operating temp, however if the day is cold (30's or 40's) it doesn't get better.
I've changed the plugs, changed the IAC valve, and cleaned the MAF sensor a couple of times, with no improvement. We almost exclusively use Exxon or Chevron gas, which should have good fuel-injector cleaning additives, so I sort of doubt the injectors are at fault. I've had a local mechanic check to see if any codes exist, but nothing shows up. This has gone on for 2 or 3 years, but it was not like this when the car was newer.
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My wipers lately park in the extreme "up" (all the way left) position. The only way to get them to park in the normal "down" position is to use an intermittent wiper setting, wait for the pause between strokes, and then turn it off. It's a 2002 model.
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I have a 1997 Dodge Dakota V8 (automatic) with about 140k and live in Vermont. Recently, my truck will konk out while I am sitting at a red light. As I'm sitting there, the RPM's keep going down below 700, until finally stalling out completely. When I shift into Park/Neutral then turn ignition, it will start right back up again. To get around this, I have been shifting into Neutral while I wait at the light, then back into Drive when it turns green. I have recently installed a new battery and exhaust system. I am wondering if this is occurring because of worn plugs, a dirty air filter, cracked vacuum hose, or bad alternator?
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2004 Explorer 4WD XLT 4.0 6cyl - Mileage is 117,000 - Check Engine Light came on - Pulled the code of PO193. Had the Fuel Pressure Sensor changed, Plugs and wires and check engine light is still on after being re-set several times? Car is stalling at times when going from park to drive - It seems to idle ok in park but, when in drive at a red light, the tac will bounce a little and it seems like it's not getting enough fuel and will stall out at anytime. Is there a fuel filer that can be changed? Should I have the fuel injection checked and cleaned along with a fuel filter. Seems to be getting poor gas mileage.
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I recently acquired a 2003 Mercury Sable from a friend and there is a problem with the air conditioning. The car has digital controls. I select the Max AC button, turn the temperature all the way down (60) an the fan all the way up, but it only blows warm air. I can hear and see the AC compressor cycling fairly quickly. The clutch (I think) engages for about one second and it will reengage after about 5 seconds, but again, it only says engaged for about one second.
What could be the problem? I've read the AC system might not have enough pressure and needs to be recharged. Or... the orifice tube is clogged, bad AC pressure switch, or the actuator that closes the heater door might be disconnected.
How quickly should a properly functions AC compressor cycle? The car was not driven much over the past year or two as it was my friend's grandfathers. I may end up taking it to a shop but I don't want to get ripped off. How should I approach this?
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2002 f150 7700 with 5.4 triton and 4r100 tranny started chugging under acceleration and now stalls when put in D, 2 or 1. park and neutral are fine and reverse works perfectly.
Now when I put it in drive it chugs and stalls immediately... 1/10 times it will keep running but chug violently like its running out of gas. will get worse and stall if you press the gas. i can light the tires up for a block in reverse however.
Changed coils 1 2 and 3, IAC, bank 1 knock sensor, camshaft position sensor
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i have a 2001 mercury sable what im getting is its will not start but starts on occasion like today it started fine this morning did errands before work drove it turned it off short period and then started just fine and then drove to work after work it did not want to start tried every thing check engine light is not on and has not come on im am getting stumped i had to leave it in the parking lot at my work so my question is what could make it do this where it starts on occasion and then when sitting for a period of time will not start it cranks but just does not start
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I have a '99 Mercury Sable with the 3.0 24 Valve DOHC V6. The car occasionally will not start. It only happens after the car has been driven and warmed up, shut off, and then an attempted restart. This problem has occurred in all sorts of temps. Sometimes it will start within 30 minutes, sometimes it takes overnight. But it will start. I have already replaced the fuel pump relay. Is the fuel pump needing to be replaced (b/c it is failing slowly), or is this problem located somewhere else?
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Bought this car, drove it home, when I went to restart it nothing happened. Put in a new battery and still nothing. The starter will arc with a screwdriver but not engage. All the lights and and electrical work so I am thinking its either the neutral safety or the ignition. Is there a way to figure out which one it is with out buying both of them?
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