Mercury - Heating - Cougar :: 2001 - Heater Core Is Apparently Blocked
Dec 22, 2011
I have an 01 Mercury Cougar Sport Coupe that we bought from a friend for not too much, just to use as a daily driver. It's got a lot of miles on it, but it still gets good mileage, which combined with the fact that we didn't pay much for it makes it an okay car for around town.
Here's the problem. I live in Wyoming where it's winter nine months out of the year, and the heater core is apparently blocked. I made it all through last winter with this problem, but now it's intolerable. The kids call the car "the Red Icicle". My mechanic diagnosed the problem as a blocked heater core and tells me the only solution is to replace it, which costs something like $500. I can't work on the car as everything is too jammed under the hood to get access to anything.
Do I really need to replace the heater core? The whole car isn't worth much. Is there something I can put in the cooling system that will unblock the core reliably?
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I have a 2010 GMC 3500 Savanah van with 6.0 motor. No heat in van. Engine operating temp is normal. Heater hose into core is hot. Hose coming out is barely warm. I am of course hoping for another explanation other then blocked heater core. The truck only has 45k miles. I am ready to backflush , but wondering if there can be any other explanation. A/C works normal.
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I am working on a friends Neon and he been having an issue with constant overheating even through he has replaced the thermostat, the radiator, water pump and related hoses. However, he is missing the cap to the coolant tank and his heater core hoses are blocked, both incoming and outgoing. Could the blocked hoses be causes it to over heat?
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I have a 2001 Mercury Cougar 2.5l v6 with 142,000 miles. If I'm in idle, you can feel it discordantly kind of jumping. Guessing it's coming from the engine. When I accelerate, normally from 35-45 mph the engine sputters and is very jerky but then accelerates as normal. I am going through gas more than before. I've replaced the spark plugs and wires and it hasn't fixed.
It runs worse when my AC is on, guessing because it's more stress on the engine. don't know if it's relevant but I have a signal on my dashboard that shows how many miles I have left to drive with the amount of gas I currently have - and it's become way off, is totally inaccurate now. I also know I need an oil change.
Don't know a whole lot about cars, but I can't afford to have my car become out of commission. What the problem would be? The last mechanic I saw said it needs a tune up, but it was expensive so I've been trying things myself first.
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Plastic coupling between core and hose, is there a specialty to needed to remove from heater core?
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The heater on my 2001 ford F150 is not heating. The blower is working, the inlet hose is hot, the outlet hose is cold. Removal of hoses confirms that there is very limited flow through the heater core. I flushed it but got only minimal improvement. However when I back flush (reversing the flow through the core) the flow is great. Here's the question: Can I reverse the flow through the heater core on a permanent basis? It seems this would give the needed flow of hot fluid through the core to allow heating. Is there a problem with doing this?
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I have a 2001 F150 with a 4.6L.. Do I need discharge the AC lines when replacing the heater core? How difficult is it to replace the heater core?
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I replaced the heater core in my truck. Now it will not turn over. When the key is turned on all the lights in dash come on like normal but when I turn the key to start it I get nothing.
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The problem started when his heater core was leaking coolant and it dripped all the way down to his original ECU. Car stopped working. Then he went to a Hyundai dealer to fix the problem but they said he had to buy a brand new one. First ECU didn't work. Returned it and bought one more expensive. Dad told me it worked but he didn't by pass the heater core so coolant dripped again. So now I'm on my third ECU but it doesn't work. I've read online that some older cars have plug-and-play type of ECUs that aren't restricted to the VINs. His car is a 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe GLS FWD 4dr 3.5L.
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My heater core must have sprung a leak this week. Not that I need heat in this weather but just the smell of it while running the A/C just stinks. I know I am going to have to replace it myself but just for S&G, what would a dealer charge to replace it?
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I've got a 01 sbcc 2wd 5.4 gasser and I've gone thru 3 heater cores in 18 months. Is there something I'm missing?
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Is it possible for the roof of a 1996 Mercury Cougar to buckle or crease from a rear end accident that has caused frame damage but no damage to the quarter panels? Bumper looks fine but a frame is off on Mash and Sway.
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I have a 2002 Mercury Cougar and ever since i bought it (8 months ago) it is fueling up really slow. It takes about 20 mins to put 13 gallons of gas in. I have to just barely squeeze the handle to keep from the gas spurting back out. Its so slow that you can count the cents as it adds up. If i don't hold it really slow the gas comes spewing back out the neck of the gas tank, or just bubbles back out and shuts the pump off.
I thought it could be that my evap canister was plugged or the lines running from the gas tank to it, so i brought it in and they blew out all the lines with an air compressor and they said it was all clear. Its getting really frustrating standing out there at the pump for 20 mins. I really want to get this fixed before the COLD of MN winters comes!!!
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'97 cougar, v6, fuel injected, occasionally cuts out at low idle. not overheating, not fuel filter. this happens most often when car is completely warmed up and in traffic or at stop lights. can keep it running by putting it in neutral and keeping rpm s up. has been happening, I m ashamed to say, for about a year. I am almost sure it is something simple, but I only know old carburated (sp?). engines. now is getting worse and happening, still intermittently, even at higher engines. I know it s dangerous and should not be driven until fixed.
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I recently replaced my heater core on 2001 F250. Would be a simple job if it weren't for the quick connects on the hoses. Any tool to take these apart on the truck where space is limited?
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The heater fan quits working on colder days. It is not the fan motor, as twice after it has quit, several days later the fan began working again. As controls are switched, the indicators light and mode shifting sounds can be heard. It seems to be that the fan quits on the colder days (<38 deg) the will resume working again when the outside temperature exceeds 50 degrees.
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I have a 1993 Mercury Cougar XR7 3.8 L V-6 with 138,000 miles that has been having overheating and coolant loss issues for the past 3 months. So far I have replaced the radiator (cracked), 2 thermostats (not opening), and the thermostat housing; which is where the mechanic said the leak was coming from. I don't have a visible leak now but it is still overheating after about 15 mins of driving it. I took it back to the same mechanic who said the sealant on the head gasket needed to be replaced.
As far as I know, there is no "sealant" ON the head gasket...the head gasket is the sealant. I took it to a different mechanic who said I have leaks in several of the coolant hoses. I can smell antifreeze every time I get out of my car, but I don't see any leaks. I am concerned I've blown the head gasket but the mechanic says they cannot test that until the hoses are fixed. Does this sound reliable? Could it be a hose issue and that's all?
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I have a 2000 Mercury Cougar with about 145k miles.
Today I was driving and when I slowed down to come to a stop it acted as if it wanted to cut off by sputtering. As I got down to about 5-10mph the engine shut off (the radio and everything else was still running) I noticed that as I was slowing down right before it shut off, the RPM was going very low, almost down to zero.
I do have check engine, and low coolant level lights on.For the check engine there are a few codes.1. Something with the catalytic convertor2. 02 Sensors3. Transmission slippage4. I think there was something else but I forgot.
I do need new motor mounts. The oil light comes only when I am idle and after driving for a good 5-10min. I changed my oil about a month and a half ago though.The only time there is issues is upon stopping. Driving and acceleration is fine.
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I have a 1990 mercury cougar its having a weird issue its like it surges when driving at higher speeds you feel a small push-pull feeling, also going up hill its like i loose throttle at about 20mph then i feather the gas for a second and it comes back and this repeats at about 40mph or when I need to pass or speed up in general i took it into my ford dealership they plugged it in told me it was the egr valve the dpfe senor and the tpi sensor which all have been replaced still having the same issue took it back in he told me it was my alternator and fuel relay switch both replaced brand new as well still having the same issue most of my family is all mechanics and there completely stumped and this didn't come on slowly i noticed it last week on the way back from work. I've also replaced spark plugs properly gaped fuel filters hell replaced the suspension air filter oil change the works and well were all at a loss of what it is?
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I have a 2001 mercury cougar, every time the fuel gets to a half tank or below it stalls when going up a hill or around a curve, anytime u give it extra acceleration when it's a half tank or below it stalls and sputters, it's been in the shop for 3 months and got it out and ran good for a day now back bad I need a mechanics advice on what it could be other than fuel pump, fuel filter, o2 sensor, or plugs and wires... I've tried all of them...
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I had to drive 70 miles last week the temp outside was 98. My air conditioner was blowing cold air, I parked my car for 30 minutes. When I started my car again the air would not work, no blower nothing. I was on my way to have it tested, turned it on and it is working and blowing cold air. I do not to be stuck again traveling and it stop.
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