Mercury - Grandmarquis :: Starter Would Click Several Times When Turned The Key Before Engine Crank
Jun 12, 2015
The customer brought in her 130,000 mile 2000 Mercury Grand Marquis complaining that the starter would click several times as she turned the key again and again, before it would make the the engine crank like crazy. I saw that the positive battery cable was badly corroded, and replaced the aftermarket end with a new aftermarket end. Everything was nice and clean. No difference. I tested the battery for load voltage with my good old Sun VAT-60. It tested good, sufficient voltage after 15 seconds under a 100 amp load. I removed the fuel pump relay so that the car would not stay running for long, and then would not start when the starter did engage. It drew 120 amps while cranking. That's within spec for a fully warm engine.
I think what she has is a bad solenoid atop the starter, or perhaps a bad spot on the commutator that moves slightly with each click until the brushes are in another position. Then it will turn OK.
I think a new starter is needed. Am I on the right track? I don't want to crawl under it unless I have to, and she doesn't have money for me to make a mistake.
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I have a 2000 Grand Marquis. Yesterday I turned the key and the starter didn't crank. Everything else came on like it is supposed to. Radio, dash, warning lights, etc. After trying a few times, it started but the starter wouldn't disengage. I had to disconnect the battery for it to stop. I changed the ignition switch and cycled the key, but when I try to hook the battery back up, the starter immediately begins to crank. Even when the key is off and out of the ignition.
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I have a 99 Grand Marquis, I drive all week long in the city (check engine light dose not come on) but soon as I get on the interstate on the weekend the check engine light come on (codes 0171 @ 0174 ) . I also hear engine knock at certain times when the motor is under certain accel. conditions.
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My garage was struck by lighting this morning, and about two hours later I heard a very loud snap coming out of the vicinity of my garage. The snap was so loud, my ears were ringing. When I went to start my car (2002 Mercury Grand Marquis), it would just crank, but never turn over. The interior lights and trunk lights did not work, so I replaced the battery thinking that the power surge could have affected the electrical system of my car...and I needed a new battery anyway. With the new battery installed, all of the lights once again work, but the car still will not start. The voltage meter is low and it never runs low. I tried resetting the fuel pump shutoff, but it was never tripped and I can hear it pumping when I turn the key on. Is it likely that the mechanical failure is due to forces outside of electricity even though this car has never failed to start, or could the electrical surge have affected something else (alternator, fuses, etc.)?
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For years, intermittently, my Check Engine Light was on steady. The Ford dealer tried four times (at a cost to me of nearly $400) but was never able to fix the problem. I was always able to get it smogged because I took it in during those periods when the light was functioning normally. But now I've got to get the car smogged again and the light is dead. Could be the bulb or something else. Should I take it to an electric shop or a regular mechanic? I understand that CEL issues are common to Fords of this vintage, but the Ford dealers haven't been useful.
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Removed battery cables and held together to clear ECU ... Re-attached and no crank not even a click ...
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I have a 2001 Mercury Grand Marquis. The check engine light came on and AutoZone diagnosed it as a misfire on Cyl. #4. I changed all the plugs but I do not know how to turn off the light to see if I fixed the problem. How to turn the light off.
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I have an 04 f150 and just changed the alternator yesterday, and 4 hours later it wouldn't start starter clicks but no crank.
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I have a 2003 Honda CRV, 100,000 miles. Recently when I tried to start the car, maybe one out of every 10 times, the starter will "growl" and then stop. After a few attempts, eventually it will be to make a turn or two and the car will start. The other 9 times the starter will crank right away and the car starts, no problem. My wife took the car to the dealer, they tested the battery, the alternator and the starter and said can't find anything wrong. Charged $60 and sent my wife home. I did a test myself for battery (parasitic) drain and can't find anything there neither. During the time when it was hard to crank, the battery measures 12.5 volts. Two days ago the starter was silent when I tried to start the car. Did not even "growl". After ten attempts or so, I finally got it to turn and the car started. During this event, the battery measured 12.5 V and the head light was bright. Works fine since then for these last two days. Is there anything I should try before replacing the starter motor?
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I have an 02 F250 6.8 with 51,000 miles on it. I recently replaced the battery about a week ago, and only actually drove it yesterday for the first time since replacing the battery. I drove it about 25 miles, parked, and when I went to restart, it wouldn't. The starter doesn't crank, so I mean its not a cranking issue as in cranking, and not starting. It only clicks at the relay when turning the key. It acts like when you try to use a wrong chip coded key.
All of the dash lights came on, and I can hear the relay clicking, but that's it. I swapped the relays around, and no luck. If I let it sit a while, about an hour, it will fire right up. The battery cables are tight and free of corrosion. I am curious, since I just put in a new battery, could this be the culprit? Why will it start fine cold, but not hot? I have NEVER had an issue with this truck until now.
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2001 Saturn SL1, 143,000 miles; well maintained. For about a week, I had intermittent no crank/no start. Lights and radio worked. A single, audible click occurred when I turned the key. When I was able to start the car, it ran fine. I suspected a failing starter.
The next time I tried to start the car, however, it roared to life only to run like an asthmatic locomotive. It idled low, at about 500 rpm, and shook badly. When I stepped on the gas, the engine smoothed a bit and the headlights flickered. There was no CEL or battery light, except for one brief moment when I revved the engine to about 2000 rpm.
Now, when I try to start the car, it starts just fine, but runs for about 2 seconds before stalling out. I installed a new battery in September 2012 and I changed the plugs in early 2013 – both routine, preventative measures.
Any chance I flooded the engine while trying to start it, even though it's a fuel-injected engine? If so, how do I "unflood" it?
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Background:
New battery a month ago, connections are clean and tight
Replaced ignition switch 2 yrs ago.
Starter was taken off car and engages when directly hooked to a battery (month ago)
3rd time with this issue where the car won't start. Starter won't engage when key is in crankin start position. A month ago when the battery was replaced and starter was removed and 'tested' I had 12v to the purple wire on the starter - which should prove ignition switch is still good. All lights and power inside cabin is good. When key is turned to the crankin' position all power dies inside the cabin and nothing at the starter.
I first thought it was a weak battery connection. The second time this issue happened, I tightened the positive battery post and the car started. Today - no such luck. Both posts are tight.
Again the ignition switch was replaced a two years ago, however, I do experience issues with the key position and the climate control (a/c) from turning on. After the car starts, I slightly turn the key back and the climate control will turn on. I still don't believe the issue resides within the switch. Perhaps I'm wrong?
Is there anything between the ignition switch and solenoid on the starter? 2000 Regal LSE
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Although it starts most of the time, about two times a week it will act as though it's going to and won't. We had it in a shop for about 3 weeks and the mechanic said it started every time for him. When I got it back, within a few days it would not start. I try after about an hour and it starts. He ran diagnostic tests and nothing showed up. I want to give this car to my teenage granddaughter and I can't have this problem.
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Getting slight vibration when traveling at about 60 to 65 mph. Tires are almost new and had them rebalanced about 2000 miles ago. Shocks are less than a year old. Wondering if it is a wheel balance problem or possibly an alignment problem.
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How the HVAC system on the big Merc and Crown Vic are controlled. One answer says it's vacuum, another says it's electrical, another says electronic via the BCM. Which is correct? Does it have an electric servo to move the flapper door(s) like the Taurus I'm familiar with? Even the BCM has to have something to tell to move the flapper doors.
In the car I'm looking at, the lines into and out of the evaporator are cold when A/C is selected and the compressor clicks in. That makes me think the issue is with air direction. All I have to do is figure out why.
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Have a 2000 grand marquis that will not start after it gets warmed up. Recently had two occasions where after driving for about half hour and it's shut off, it will not start. Cranks good, but will not start. After it "cools down" it will start. Have had it to my mechanic and the dealership. They can't find anything??? They say it has to get worse before they can make it better. They don't want to start throwing parts like fuel pumps at it.
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My windshield wipers do not park all the way down. The left one is up at a 5 degree incline, the right one more like 15 or 20 degrees. I went through a car wash today, and the air dryer blew them all the way to the left, and back to the right a little. I turned them on and back off, and they returned to the original position (5 and 15 degrees). Car is 2002 Grand Marquis LS.
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My '03 Grand Marquis "shudders" when I accelerate, especially up hills. It feels like it cuts in and out momentarily, shaking backward and forward. Here is what I have had done, based on mechanics' advice: replace spark plugs, replace fuel filter, clean throttle body, clean mass airflow sensor. It still does it after all this and I am stumped.
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Today while driving my 03 marquis the check engine light started blinking, after a few blinks I noticed it stopped . But a few moments later it started blinking again then stopped, so on an so on. I also noticed that the car had a immediate loss of power and it seemed like my car was missing, and while trying to give it gas it would shutter. It never killed on me but I can tell it ain't running right. A friend of mine told me to push the brake down while car was running an in drive, an give it gas like you was going to,"power brake it". I did, and instead of it power braking it just shook forward as if it only had 4cyl instead of 8cyl. then my buddy said its a bad "coil", no how he knows that idk. But is that true or what it might be???
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We have a 1994 Grand Marquis. Sometimes when driving the check engine light comes on and suddenly she doesn't want to accelerate very fast at all. If you do try to hit the gas, it sounds like the engine speeds up but there is no change in acceleration. It is also hard to get to/over 50mph. If you pull over and rev the engine a few times (slowly) there is an audible click from somewhere inside the engine. It will happen a few times and then the car seems fine. Inevitably the issue will come back a some miles down the road.It doesn't get driven every day and so far we have not had the light come on when we are near anyone that can read the error. Also, it resets and is not on if you turn the car on and off, even if the problem persists. It only comes on while driving (though it will stay on if put into park and left running). Oh, and possibly related, it seems that the air that is put out form the defroster is very damp when this happens (sometimes).
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Several minutes after I start driving in the morning, my car starts making a strange noise under the hood. It sounds like a motor running, or a strange buzz. After a few minutes, the noise stops stops. When it does, and if I'm stopped at a light, my engine jerks one time. The engine actually shut off one day, but I could start it right up. It does this once during the trip. The speed of the car or engine has no effect on the sound, but it stops if I turn the car off. If I restart the car, the noise does not return.
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