I was noticing this morning, that my left front and right rear windows didn't work. Also each of my two side mirrors would only adjust to the left but not to the right. When I try to do the non-working windows the dome light would dim a little bit when I push the button, but no sound or anything.
This is an intermittent problem. They usually work, but sometimes they don't.
The following have stopped working (at the same time if I remember correctly): power door locks, power mirrors, power trunk release and rear defroster. We are also getting a tire pressure fault warning when the tire pressure is ok. As far as other items located on the drivers door, the power seat adjustment and power windows are still working. I checked every fuse in the interior box and the the rely ant fuses unde the hood. I exchanged the big, square, grey fuse for the rear defroster with the one for the starter and still no luck with that issue.
View 5 RepliesYesterday I ran my batteries down and had to have my 2003 F350 jump started. The truck started find, and the battery is retaining its charge, but after the jump i lost my power windows, instrument panel (speedometer, gauges, odometer), dome lights, radio, and power mirrors. I have checked all the blade fuses and they are all fine. I have noticed in the past that occasionally it takes a few seconds for these things to come on line after I start up, but this was very rare and the functions always came on line shortly. What the problem could be?
View 3 RepliesIt seems as though whenever I turn on the AC in the car (and sometimes even if I don't engage the AC) all the windows lock and only I can control them from the driver's control panel...
View 2 RepliesThe trunk latch on my 2009 Mercury Marquis is malfunctionng. It sometimes will close OK, then at other times it will not, and then it requires that I hit the trunk button on the car remote button to make ithe latch close. I have tried WD-40 on it, but it still does not work OK. The Ford dealer said that I need a new latch installed at a cost of $265! Can I buy a new lacth (ca. $45) and install it myself, or does it require any special tools or a reset of the car's onboard computer?
View 2 RepliesA loud humming (sounds like a compressor). I can place the car in neutral, the engine revs up, and humming will stop. I have to repeat this action for the first 30-45 minutes from start of drive time.
View 4 RepliesI'm having several problems, and I'm wondering if they are related: Sometimes the heat/ac/vent blows on the windshield instead of where they are supposed to be. Occaisionally it works at first, and then changes after a few minutes to blow onto the windshield.
Sometimes I get a buzzing sound under the hood. Usually when I'm stopped, but sometimes while moving. The car idles high when this happens. If I tap the accelerator, this usually stops the noise and the idle drops to normal.
This morning, the brake warning light kept coming on while using the brake. The fluid level and pedal are OK, and the car stops OK. Then the buzzing sound came on, the engine light came on, and the brake warning light went out at the same time. The brake light hasn't come on since. The scanner tool indicates the IAC was running too fast.
I have a 2003 Grand Marquis and recently the drivers window stopped working. The last time I recall trying to use it and getting some response was around a week ago to check and see if my window was frozen shut. When the headlights are on, all of my window controls light up except for the drivers window. When the button is depressed to raise the window I feel a slight vibration through the floor.
I'm a complete novice when it comes to car repair, but is this something I could potentially fix myself? Or how much would I be looking at to get this fixed otherwise?
My beloved 1995 Dodge Ram Van has intermittent dash panel electrical issues. The gas gauge an speedometer are intermittent, coupled with lights and radio on off too. It It all started when I had the transition services years ago. It has less than 100k mileage.
View 1 RepliesMy AC clutch will not engage until the engine gets hot enough to call for the radiator cooling fan to switch on, which in moderate weather at highway speeds can be forever. (Single electric cooling fan.) Of course, the AC should override the engine coolant sensors and turn on the fan and engage the clutch. Once the engine is hot, the AC works normally. No one seems to know where to start looking. It's an '03 Grand Marquis with an interceptor engine package.
View 5 RepliesI've got a 2002 jetta. new ecu, new cluster, new keys (new to me from a 2010 beetle) all installed but my windows, door illumination, locks and electric mirrors dont work. Windows will go up and down with key in door, and locks work that way as well. if i put my old cluster back, everything works fine.
View 3 RepliesIf you have turn the engine off if there is a way to close the windows and the side mirrors without putting the key in the lock. Under the steering wheel there are 2 small switches, left and right. When I press the one on the left the light on the steering wheel goes on and off. What the one on the right do???
View 4 RepliesI've been having some troubles with my 2009 Hyundai sonata GLS 100k 4 cyl. Its quite an odd issue I've been having with my power windows. It seems that the switches or relays stop working intermittently however it does it in an odd fashion. First the drivers master switch works for all but sometimes not for the front passenger up nor down . The front passenger switch/relay does not work at times, up nor down, the rear passenger does not go up at all and the rear driver switch does not go down at all. I can't for the life of me fathom what might actually be the issue other than, all the switches breaking at the same time(due to power surge ?) Another theory I have is that is that my passengers and I sometimes place cellphones in the door handle and may have somehow damaged the switch ? I know these are some whacky conjectures but that I can think of.
View 9 RepliesI have a 2003 Odyssey EX - everything was working fine up up to last year. When summer was almost at an end, the A/C suddenly failed. I pressed the 'Auto' button, I heard the compressor kick in and felt the slight kick/drop in rpm like normal, but after about 3-5 seconds the compressor disengaged and the engine went back to unhindered idle speed. The A/C console was still set at Auto, so i turned it off then back on, but this time there was no compressor kick in at all. At first I thought a fuse blew, but I checked them and they were all fine. I continued on my way and decided I would just turn on the fan/blower, but it didn't work either. It didn't matter if I set the console for auto or manual, heat or cold, when I turned the fan knob to any speed it would not turn on - with the following exception: If I turned it all the way to max and waited about 10 seconds or more, then it wold blow at full speed. Same would happen if I put it on auto and turned the temperature knob to lowest or highest temperature - after 10 seconds it would turn on the fan at max speed (since I figure consoles are programmed to go to max fan at temperature extremes to get to either one faster...)Also of note: When I turned off the vehicle, and turned it back on at a later time, the compressor again wold kick in for 5 seconds then turn off......and by the way the rear fan control works just fine throughout all this.
Since the summer was over, I didn't need the A/C and figure I would fix before the next summer. Every once in the while I would test again, and a couple of months later the A/C decided to work just fine for a whole day, but then it went back to the odd behavior
So now I'm thinking the environment console is busted and I need to replace it, except other things start to behave erratically:First was the break release for the transmission lever. I wold press down on the break but could not hear the 'click' that releases the transmission lever to shift out of park. That first time I just couldn't get it to work, so I used the emergency release on the top of the steering column, but after that I could simply pump the break or release and pump repeatedly until the click happened, usually took 3 tries. The funny thing is that this becomes consistent for about a week, and then months will pass with no problems shifting out of park, only to happen again for a week...
On some rare occasions, the interior lights don't work they way they are supposed to: They'll stay on when with all doors closed even when set to turn on only with open doors, or won't turn on at all with the same setting even with a door open (rarer still, will turn on with one door, but not another). I can always just set them to remain off all the time...
Same kind of issues with the rear windows and cruise control, most times they'll work fine, others they don't.
The only thing I really need to work in this Texas heat is the A/C, but before I go get an expensive A/C console replacement, or have technicians accumulate hours and hours of diagnosis to figure out the problem, I wanted to know if perhaps these are all related as an electrical issue with a buss-bar or a junction box - or a short from stripped wires in the harness, loose terminals, etc.
Wind noise around front windows just inside the side mirrors. ཀ Forester ...Is this a common problem and is there a fix for it?
View 4 RepliesI am having problems with ALL my driver door electronics, except the fuel door. my passenger side works fine, sunroof works fine. Ive removed the door panel to look for obvious problems, like broken wires.. Fuses are good, looking for a good place to start. Power winder/locks.
Little update, i reset my battery and they worked, waited like twenty minutes, nothing works again.. why would i have to reset the battery every time for the windows to work?
I was driving my truck and my power windows quite working I figured it was a fuse so I wasn't to excited about it I stopped and unloaded some scrap metal and then when I started my truck back up I couldn't shift it out of park unless I unplugged the brake pedal sensor or turned the key just out of the off position then shifted to neutral then started then I could put it in gear and go so I got home and started looking checked all my fuses all good then I realize the windshield wipers are not working either and the door beeper, if you have your keys in the ignition also isn't working the horn, isn't working the lights on the window and lock switches isn't working either so I'm kinda lost now gonna barrow a relay tester in the am but I'm kinda thinking maybe the computer ?? For all this to happen at one to,e doesn't make any sense to me that's a lot to all go in one shot it makes more sense to me
No horn
No power windows
No accessory lights on the window and lock switches
No wipers
No buzzer/beeper (like when you open the door and leave the keys in the ignition
Won't shift out of park without doing it with the engine off or the brake pedal position sensor unplugged
I've gone thru with a test light and got power to the fuses for everything but still nothing
We have a 1997 Ford Ranger, live in Minnesota. The heat doesn't work, the electric windows need to be pushed up the last 4 inches, the radio is stuck on loud, the back window latch is broken off, the dash lights only light up the speedometer to 50 mph, the driver's seat doesn't adjust for reclining, and the gas gauge doesn't work. We tend to drive our cars till they die and have been able to live with the above annoyances. However, in dealing with the lack of a gas gauge the person driving it when the odometer hits 200 miles is suppose to fill it up then reset the odometer. That was me this weekend.
Once the gas nozzle clicked off I gave it one last squirt to top it off and gasoline began flowing out under the car. Not dripping, not trickling, not squirting out back at me. Under the truck. Maybe a pint to quart of gas. After wondering if I was going to blow up that part of the county if I started my truck, I figured God wasn't done with me yet, so I started it and drove until I used up about 3 gallons. My husband thinks it is OK to keep the truck because by overfilling it I triggered a valve that actually supposed to do just what it did….release the extra gas.
Although it starts most of the time, about two times a week it will act as though it's going to and won't. We had it in a shop for about 3 weeks and the mechanic said it started every time for him. When I got it back, within a few days it would not start. I try after about an hour and it starts. He ran diagnostic tests and nothing showed up. I want to give this car to my teenage granddaughter and I can't have this problem.
View 10 RepliesGetting slight vibration when traveling at about 60 to 65 mph. Tires are almost new and had them rebalanced about 2000 miles ago. Shocks are less than a year old. Wondering if it is a wheel balance problem or possibly an alignment problem.
View 6 RepliesHow the HVAC system on the big Merc and Crown Vic are controlled. One answer says it's vacuum, another says it's electrical, another says electronic via the BCM. Which is correct? Does it have an electric servo to move the flapper door(s) like the Taurus I'm familiar with? Even the BCM has to have something to tell to move the flapper doors.
In the car I'm looking at, the lines into and out of the evaporator are cold when A/C is selected and the compressor clicks in. That makes me think the issue is with air direction. All I have to do is figure out why.