Mercury - Grandmarquis :: Electrical Malfunction - Power Door Locks / Trunk Release / Rear Defroster Stopped Working
Dec 24, 2015
The following have stopped working (at the same time if I remember correctly): power door locks, power mirrors, power trunk release and rear defroster. We are also getting a tire pressure fault warning when the tire pressure is ok. As far as other items located on the drivers door, the power seat adjustment and power windows are still working. I checked every fuse in the interior box and the the rely ant fuses unde the hood. I exchanged the big, square, grey fuse for the rear defroster with the one for the starter and still no luck with that issue.
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THE PROBLEM: The Power Locks, Trunk Release and Power Windows Lock on my 1998 Mercury Grand Marquis have stopped working altogether. They don't work with either the key remote or the actual control panel in the car itself. So the only way to open the car or trunk is the old fashioned way, with the key. SO FAR...I've tried replacing the fuse - a 20 Amp CB - on the fuse panel, but it had no effect. What's my next step?
A LITTLE BACKGROUND: Recently a different key remote stopped working for this same issue. I tried replacing the battery in the key remote, but it had no effect. So I began using my spare key remote and it worked fine for about a week. But during this time the control panel in the car still worked properly. Now nothing works. Not sure if the other remote's issue was related or not to what's wrong now.
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The trunk latch on my 2009 Mercury Marquis is malfunctionng. It sometimes will close OK, then at other times it will not, and then it requires that I hit the trunk button on the car remote button to make ithe latch close. I have tried WD-40 on it, but it still does not work OK. The Ford dealer said that I need a new latch installed at a cost of $265! Can I buy a new lacth (ca. $45) and install it myself, or does it require any special tools or a reset of the car's onboard computer?
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I was noticing this morning, that my left front and right rear windows didn't work. Also each of my two side mirrors would only adjust to the left but not to the right. When I try to do the non-working windows the dome light would dim a little bit when I push the button, but no sound or anything.
This is an intermittent problem. They usually work, but sometimes they don't.
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I have a 2003 Grand Marquis and recently the drivers window stopped working. The last time I recall trying to use it and getting some response was around a week ago to check and see if my window was frozen shut. When the headlights are on, all of my window controls light up except for the drivers window. When the button is depressed to raise the window I feel a slight vibration through the floor.
I'm a complete novice when it comes to car repair, but is this something I could potentially fix myself? Or how much would I be looking at to get this fixed otherwise?
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99 Grand Marquis. Transmission won't down shift unless you release the gas pedal. Check engine light not on, no OBD codes. Changed the transmission fluid and filter. Fluid level OK.
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I have a 2008 Honda Odyssey. I purchased the van used back in February with 34,000 miles on it. About a week after I bought it, the van started having odd electrical problems. My radio controls on the wheel would stop working, my rear wiper would start running even though it is in the off position. My power sliding doors would catch and close at the half way point on both sides at the same time. It is little odd ball stuff, but I am worried that the "brain" is not working properly. I have taken it to the dealer multiple times and of course they can't find the problem. They say to bring it back if it keeps happening, which I do, but every time they say it is fine and send me on my merry little way.
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Power door locks on my 2001 Aurrora have stopped working. It seemed to progress. First the rear door locks didn't work, now the rear and passenger door locks won't open or close with key fob or power switch on doors. I can still operate the door latches manually with the door lock lever. Also the interior lights and power windows to these same doors don't work. I examined the fuses under the rear seat and found nothing blown. What controls all these devices? The driver door operates as normal.
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1997 Ford Expedition 4x4
When I push the switch for the drivers window I can hear the relay in the fuse block make a click but window doesn't move. If I push the switch for any other window (on the drivers door or any other door) no click at the relay and no window movement. I've swapped the relay with other relays in the fuse block but nothing changed.
I've tested the driver side window motor by running 12 volts directly and the motor works fine. When I press the PDL switch I hear a buzzing sound coming from the passenger floor area behind the glove box but the locks do not go up or down. I started the truck and when I put it in gear I can hear the PW relay in the fuse block clicking repeatedly. Put the truck in Park & the clicking stops.
I was told (on another forum) that the problem is most likely my GEM module. Bought a used 1 on eBay and installed it today but nothing changed.
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I've searched the inter tubes, trying to find out if there is a fuse or relay or even circuit breaker that needs replacing. From all I've checked, I can't find a fuse, relay or circuit breaker labeled to control window and door locks.all 4 windows don't work (with exception to front passenger window occasionally goes down but not up.)finally figured i should have come to this fine forum first! (especially after hearing 'car talk' today)some other pages with similar questions had answers referring to fuse #12 or relay F (mine aren't identified that way). I'm heading out to get a test light -- just so i can see if i can test anything...
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I have a 2002 f150 supercrew, 4wd. The power door locks stopped working the other day and I am trying to fix it. So far I have checked the fuse in the power distribution box, good. I have checked the wires from the doors to the cab along the door sills to the rear doors , all good. I did find a couple of iffy grounds on the left kick panel and cleaned and repaired them. I am having a heck of a time finding the group of relays that control the lock and unlock functions. Remember , I have no power lock function at all. I would swear its not getting power to the relays but until I find them , I just don't know. Where they are supposed to be?
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We've got a 2006 Civic EX Coupe, and the power windows and power door locks have both stopped working. If I can remember correctly, they kind of faded out over the course of a few weeks, working intermittently then not working at all.
All window and door lock fuses (interior and under the hood) are still good.
What this could be? Is it something DIY fixable? I've removed door panels for random stuff, but haven't really done much with power window electronics.
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2006 F150 5.4 2WD extended cab tow package 24k miles
My power windows have stopped working from all locations. I checked and the fuses are good. I can no longer use the exterior keypad to unlock the truck, yet my remote keyring switch will electronically open both driver and passenger doors. Neither driver's nor passenger's interior door switches work.
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I'm having several problems, and I'm wondering if they are related: Sometimes the heat/ac/vent blows on the windshield instead of where they are supposed to be. Occaisionally it works at first, and then changes after a few minutes to blow onto the windshield.
Sometimes I get a buzzing sound under the hood. Usually when I'm stopped, but sometimes while moving. The car idles high when this happens. If I tap the accelerator, this usually stops the noise and the idle drops to normal.
This morning, the brake warning light kept coming on while using the brake. The fluid level and pedal are OK, and the car stops OK. Then the buzzing sound came on, the engine light came on, and the brake warning light went out at the same time. The brake light hasn't come on since. The scanner tool indicates the IAC was running too fast.
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i have prius 2004 yesterday the rear defroster stopped and not working while the key on steering wheel and the yallow light indicator works very well and mirror defroster also working well, this case it become yesterday but before that it was working as usual.
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My power door lock switch in the drivers door stopped working (not the actuator problem, but the actual switch would unlock, but not lock the doors)
I started to research if it could just be simple corrosion and decided to spray the contacts with CRC electronics cleaner. It completely fixed it.
Next, my parking brake light sensor stopped working so I did the same and it fixed it.
I began to research cleaning contacts and found a number of people in the automotive forums who basically spray contact cleaner on every electrical connection they ever touch.
I will do this in the future. The only part I wonder about is if there is something better to spray on them to prevent further corrosion in the future. I used dielectric grease but it would be nice to just spray the thing down. However, CRC does say their electronic cleaner prevent future corrosion.
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2005 Grand Caravan with 160K miles. Automatic door locks started not working two years ago and needed to be reset by either disconnecting the battery or pulling the fuse. First this would happen every six months, then about every three months, then monthly, and now about every two weeks. Is there anyway to avoid having to reset the system every two weeks?
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I have a 2004 Santa Fe, recently all the door locks stopped working at once. When I use the Key Fob The Blinkers flash like they are supposed to but it does not lock/unlock the doors. The panic button also works. When I use the key in the door it only unlocks that door, meaning when I double turn the other doors do not lock/unlock. Now that this happened all at once I do not believe all the actuators broke at once. Is there a fuse or a relay that might of broke or blown?
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Last week my door locks just stopped working so I checked all the fuses and relays which all were good but still no power took door panels off and checked with tester and no power to switches or actuators, Checked wiring in between door and cab and no broken or bare wires. This truck does have remotes and they don't work either, what's going on ?
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The "lock" button of my remote door lock fob stopped working. 2006 Toyota Matrix... I went out to my car this morning and it was unlocked. Apparently been unlocked since I drove it 2 days ago.Someone went in it and emptied the contents of my glove compartment on to the floor and opened all the other compartments, except the one for change.Stupid thief could have heisted ~$2 in quarters. I never leave valuables in my car.I could still lock the doors with the buttons on the front doors, so I went researching the remote lock receiver (one of the many "black boxes").I found out it's expensive ($4-500 new) and buried behind trim in the back of the car.This evening I was thinking more clearly and calmly so I went out to pull the trim and have a look at this module.I tried the "hatch" button to see if the separate rear glass opening latch still functioned, and it did.I closed the glass and low and behold the "lock" button started working again! Problem solved!So the remote won't lock the doors if the rear glass is not closed securely.
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Car: 1996 Nissan Maxima
The car has an automatic antenna (up/down when you turn on/off the radio). I wanted to disconnect the motor to leave it in the up position. I followed the cables to the antenna (left the coax alone, of course), and cut the 3 conductors that were leading to "a box" under the antenna. NOTE: This area in behind a metal panel.
As intended, the antenna is stuck in the up position. The problem is that I also lost the dash clock, the remote to the door locks stopped working, and the radio memory buttons do not work anymore (the radio comes on in AM every time).
AND here is the mystery; I went back to the cables, spliced them together (correctly - they are color coded) but NOTHING CAME BACK TO NORMAL. The radio is still messed up, remote still not working, and the dash clock is still off.
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