Mercury - Grandmarquis :: A/C Malfunction - Buzzing Sound From Under The Hood - Brake Warning Light Keep Coming On
Dec 28, 2012
I'm having several problems, and I'm wondering if they are related: Sometimes the heat/ac/vent blows on the windshield instead of where they are supposed to be. Occaisionally it works at first, and then changes after a few minutes to blow onto the windshield.
Sometimes I get a buzzing sound under the hood. Usually when I'm stopped, but sometimes while moving. The car idles high when this happens. If I tap the accelerator, this usually stops the noise and the idle drops to normal.
This morning, the brake warning light kept coming on while using the brake. The fluid level and pedal are OK, and the car stops OK. Then the buzzing sound came on, the engine light came on, and the brake warning light went out at the same time. The brake light hasn't come on since. The scanner tool indicates the IAC was running too fast.
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Several minutes after I start driving in the morning, my car starts making a strange noise under the hood. It sounds like a motor running, or a strange buzz. After a few minutes, the noise stops stops. When it does, and if I'm stopped at a light, my engine jerks one time. The engine actually shut off one day, but I could start it right up. It does this once during the trip. The speed of the car or engine has no effect on the sound, but it stops if I turn the car off. If I restart the car, the noise does not return.
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So today while driving my '98 Mercury Grand Marquis home I noticed a leak was coming from behind the rear right tire.. Or I'm guessing it's a leak ? But it's kinda like a grease substance and it sure does smell bad! It's all over the backside of the tire and muffler (probably why it smells).
While driving it there is a low humming sound? Best way I know how to describe it and if I go over 60mph it gets increasingly louder.. After looking up some forums online I came across that it could be a possible wheel bearing or maybe a bad axle problem?
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The trunk latch on my 2009 Mercury Marquis is malfunctionng. It sometimes will close OK, then at other times it will not, and then it requires that I hit the trunk button on the car remote button to make ithe latch close. I have tried WD-40 on it, but it still does not work OK. The Ford dealer said that I need a new latch installed at a cost of $265! Can I buy a new lacth (ca. $45) and install it myself, or does it require any special tools or a reset of the car's onboard computer?
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I was noticing this morning, that my left front and right rear windows didn't work. Also each of my two side mirrors would only adjust to the left but not to the right. When I try to do the non-working windows the dome light would dim a little bit when I push the button, but no sound or anything.
This is an intermittent problem. They usually work, but sometimes they don't.
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The following have stopped working (at the same time if I remember correctly): power door locks, power mirrors, power trunk release and rear defroster. We are also getting a tire pressure fault warning when the tire pressure is ok. As far as other items located on the drivers door, the power seat adjustment and power windows are still working. I checked every fuse in the interior box and the the rely ant fuses unde the hood. I exchanged the big, square, grey fuse for the rear defroster with the one for the starter and still no luck with that issue.
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I recently replaced the fuel pump and afterward started noticing a buzzing/whining sound coming from under the hood. The noise goes away when I remove the vacuum line from the fuel pressure regulator and after the car has been driven for 1/2 to 1 hour. Sometimes it comes back, sometime not, but it always is there at a cold start. Had the shop take a look and they said the fuel pump is ok and recommended replacing the fuel pressure regulator. I did but that but it did not solve it. I suppose I should check the fuel pressure. 2000 Silverado 5.3L ...
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On first start of the day (engine cold), the transmission emits a siren-like sound similar to a hydraulic pump air-bound or cavitating. Sound disappears after first 1 or 2 miles of driving. Does not repeat during the rest of day when engine is warm. Repeats again at first start each morning. Ford dealer check of no value since mechanic could hear nothing with engine warmed up.
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In my one-owner purchased-new 2005 Prius w/ 74K miles and w/ no maintenance/accident history other than doing all scheduled maintenances at Toyota Dealers along w/ recalls applicable at each time (other than we had Toyota replace the 12V battery last year just because I knew it would die at some point anyway and I don't like pushing my luck; I'm not 100% certain if there's been a recall on any water pump for this car and if so, don't believe the dealer has mentioned it), I have the following indicators which appeared all at once while I was driving along at around 45 MPH in no unusual circumstances (80F, dry afternoon, about 30 minutes into a trip of mixed speeds, no loads in the vehicle, no effect on the car while driving):
From Left to Right on the display:
1) Red Triangle - Master Warning Light
2) Orange (Symbol)CHECK - Malfunction Indicator Lamp
3) Orange (!) - Brake Warning Light (but it didn't highlight the word 'Brake' in red)
4) Orange VSC - Vehicle Stability Control Warning Light
On the Screen:
Orange Car w/ the ! symbol - Hybrid System Warning Light
We immediately aimed for the house (about 5 miles away); the car drove perfectly fine, with the engine stopping and starting at lights as needed, with speeds going from the 55MPH we were traveling at the time of the alarms down to 0 and back up thru 35/45 MPH and such per normal off-interstate driving. The battery currently shows all the blue bars, and the engine and hybrid systems showed charge/discharge as usual as we drove. There was no discernible change in the driving reaction of the car to brake, steering, accelerator, etc.
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I just noticed that my Grand Marquis recently started to squeak rather loudly coming from the front end shocks.. Think its coming more from the passenger side.. Now we've never changed the shocks since we've had the car so I'm fairly certain it's going to need some new shocks. But could this also be because the lube has dried out on the suspension ?. Doesn't affect the drive but it sure is annoying driving around with the squeaking...
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I've been having a problem with some of the interior lights staying on and killing my battery each night. The lights that stay on are the climate control lights, gear shift light, and the lights on the door for the windows and locks. Every time i have to crank up i have to get it jumped off. If i pull the fuse out for the tail lights i no longer have the problem. I was wondering does it have something to do with the lighting control module or maybe the headlight switch.
I also have been having a problem with the a/c making this tapping sound behind the dash. Even with the a/c off you hear this constant sound as long as the car is on. I have no clue what is going on...
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For years, intermittently, my Check Engine Light was on steady. The Ford dealer tried four times (at a cost to me of nearly $400) but was never able to fix the problem. I was always able to get it smogged because I took it in during those periods when the light was functioning normally. But now I've got to get the car smogged again and the light is dead. Could be the bulb or something else. Should I take it to an electric shop or a regular mechanic? I understand that CEL issues are common to Fords of this vintage, but the Ford dealers haven't been useful.
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I have a 2001 Mercury Grand Marquis. The check engine light came on and AutoZone diagnosed it as a misfire on Cyl. #4. I changed all the plugs but I do not know how to turn off the light to see if I fixed the problem. How to turn the light off.
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My battery want stay charged in my Mercury. I want to know if the light control module could cause it to drain....
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643 miles on a 2016 Camry XLE, while driving down the road, the BSM warning malfunction warning light came up for the 3rd time in 4 weeks of owning the vehicle. BSM works after restarting the car, but it looks like it's a recurring issue.
I was putting off buying a new car from dealer for years because I know even new cars have glitches and recalls. This is not a HUGE issue, but extremely annoying when the car still smells new and you get a BOINK while driving down the freeway.
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I recently purchased an 08 ls 460 and started noticing the infamous clicking sound coming from the ABS brake actuator under the hood. A $3000plus fix that is not in the budget nor will it ever be!..After doing some research trying to figure out what the actuator does i stumble across this Lexus technician PDF ...
..It clearly states on page 2 that "If a Toyota ABS system malfuctions, normal braking will not be affected!...My worry has never been the sound it makes,.. but that of me not being able to brake when needed!!...
[URL]...
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Although it starts most of the time, about two times a week it will act as though it's going to and won't. We had it in a shop for about 3 weeks and the mechanic said it started every time for him. When I got it back, within a few days it would not start. I try after about an hour and it starts. He ran diagnostic tests and nothing showed up. I want to give this car to my teenage granddaughter and I can't have this problem.
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I'll be driving along, and when I make a relatively hard right turn, I'll hear a buzzing coming from under the hood from that point until my destination. If the car is stopped (usually about 10-20 mins) I'll start it back up and no buzzing.
I've tried pulling over and stopping/starting the car with no luck. I've shifted gears, including into park and neutral, with no luck. I"ve even tried a hard left turn (no luck)!
The buzz is not terribly loud, but rises and falls perfectly with engine RPMs. At idle it's not noticeable, but increases in pitch with the RPMs. It sounds like the engine sounds on a really cold day before it warms up. If I put it in park I can rev the engine and reproduce the same effect as when driving. It doesn't go away at a certain point i.e. I don't think it's resonance.
This is a 1998 Nissan 200SX with about 90K miles.
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I have been getting a buzzing sound under my hood, usually in cold weather that lasts a few seconds, happens after I go about 1-2 miles from my house, did online research and it might be my IAC valve getting internally dirty.
Could replace it for $50.00, some You Tube videos show people cleaning theirs on other brands of cars, can the Ford IAC valve be cleaned up with a little carb cleaner and cotton swabs?
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Getting slight vibration when traveling at about 60 to 65 mph. Tires are almost new and had them rebalanced about 2000 miles ago. Shocks are less than a year old. Wondering if it is a wheel balance problem or possibly an alignment problem.
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How the HVAC system on the big Merc and Crown Vic are controlled. One answer says it's vacuum, another says it's electrical, another says electronic via the BCM. Which is correct? Does it have an electric servo to move the flapper door(s) like the Taurus I'm familiar with? Even the BCM has to have something to tell to move the flapper doors.
In the car I'm looking at, the lines into and out of the evaporator are cold when A/C is selected and the compressor clicks in. That makes me think the issue is with air direction. All I have to do is figure out why.
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